1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Generally no.

Unless they are being supplied by a reliable engine shop.

All ordered ended up finding some genuine ones 16 with ford on for £245

On 11/3/2025 at 3:56 PM, TomsFocus said:

Generally no.

Unless they are being supplied by a reliable engine shop.

Hi mate all the parts should be here tomorrow all genuine ford no Chinese rubbish, What do i do with the tappets? do i need soak them in oil or just put them in? Also i brought Lucas assembly lube   

7 hours ago, custom driver said:

Hi mate all the parts should be here tomorrow all genuine ford no Chinese rubbish, What do i do with the tappets? do i need soak them in oil or just put them in? Also i brought Lucas assembly lube   

I don't recommend soaking them.  People used to in the past.  So it's your choice really.

On 11/7/2025 at 9:25 AM, TomsFocus said:

I don't recommend soaking them.  People used to in the past.  So it's your choice really.

She’s up and running, Diesel is spraying from somewhere as quickly cranked it so had to turn it of quick as was smoking, also you know the pipe that comes from brake servo then clips into vacuum pump, should that just push in? Only mine everything else lines up and connects but the pipe won’t go in 

10 hours ago, custom driver said:

She’s up and running, Diesel is spraying from somewhere as quickly cranked it so had to turn it of quick as was smoking, also you know the pipe that comes from brake servo then clips into vacuum pump, should that just push in? Only mine everything else lines up and connects but the pipe won’t go in 

Good start at least!  Yeah that pipe should just clip in.  Maybe the new connector is a bit wider so needs a bit more force.  If it's the type with the square buttons then pressing them is should make it easier to go in.

On 11/12/2025 at 9:21 AM, TomsFocus said:

Good start at least!  Yeah that pipe should just clip in.  Maybe the new connector is a bit wider so needs a bit more force.  If it's the type with the square buttons then pressing them is should make it easier to go in.

Hi mate any tips on how to remove the water pump? 4 10mm bolts removed but looks like its stuck in its position 

30 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Hi mate any tips on how to remove the water pump? 4 10mm bolts removed but looks like its stuck in its position 

Hmm, not really.  It should just come out.  If tapping with a hammer hasn't worked then I'd get a pry bar in behind the flat edge if possible.  Just take care not to let it slip and scratch the area around the seal.

38 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Hmm, not really.  It should just come out.  If tapping with a hammer hasn't worked then I'd get a pry bar in behind the flat edge if possible.  Just take care not to let it slip and scratch the area around the seal.

There is not anywhere to put a flat head or pry bar, If i nock a flat head into the edge it might cause a gap to then leak water or even crack the block? 

1 hour ago, custom driver said:

There is not anywhere to put a flat head or pry bar, If i nock a flat head into the edge it might cause a gap to then leak water or even crack the block? 

Yeah, I wouldn't drive anything into that gap.  Better off hitting the pump harder with a hammer, doesn't matter if that gets damaged.

44 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah, I wouldn't drive anything into that gap.  Better off hitting the pump harder with a hammer, doesn't matter if that gets damaged.

I have done mate even heated it up, easiest thing to do but just a pain for it to come of the block

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah, I wouldn't drive anything into that gap.  Better off hitting the pump harder with a hammer, doesn't matter if that gets damaged.

Should they just pull out? or are they normally a pain to get out?

12 hours ago, custom driver said:

Should they just pull out? or are they normally a pain to get out?

They should just pull out but some do get stuck in unfortunately due to the taper around the edge.  Ford have been using this type of pump for years on other engines as well.

With the engine out of the car or mount off and lowered enough to go through a wheel arch, then you can use a puller and slide hammer, but I don't know whether there's any chance of reaching it like that on a Transit.

Has it come away at all or is it still completely solid in there?

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

They should just pull out but some do get stuck in unfortunately due to the taper around the edge.  Ford have been using this type of pump for years on other engines as well.

With the engine out of the car or mount off and lowered enough to go through a wheel arch, then you can use a puller and slide hammer, but I don't know whether there's any chance of reaching it like that on a Transit.

Has it come away at all or is it still completely solid in there?

Engine mount is of its pretty low, no not come away at all, i've put a crow bar and hit it with sledge hammer on the pulley wheel n shocked it but no joy, is there anything i can buy then will pull it of?

1 minute ago, custom driver said:

Engine mount is of its pretty low, no not come away at all, i've put a crow bar and hit it with sledge hammer on the pulley wheel n shocked it but no joy, is there anything i can buy then will pull it of?

Slide hammer is the best tool for pulling things straight out.  But for this you'll need some way to attach it to the waterpump or pulley.  Possibly a bearing puller might work on the end of the slide hammer.  Might be able to borrow something like this from local garage tomorrow rather than buying it just for one job.

 

42 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Slide hammer is the best tool for pulling things straight out.  But for this you'll need some way to attach it to the waterpump or pulley.  Possibly a bearing puller might work on the end of the slide hammer.  Might be able to borrow something like this from local garage tomorrow rather than buying it just for one job.

 

Hmm looks a good bit of tool, But don't think the engine will go that low tbh, Been driving fine since the wet belt then noticed the coolant was dropping then figured out its from the water pump, so silly me has not put coolant in only water and then gone for crank it over and hears the water pump stretch belt screech like hell then loads of smoke, stretch belt snapped and this auxiliary water pump, 

49 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Slide hammer is the best tool for pulling things straight out.  But for this you'll need some way to attach it to the waterpump or pulley.  Possibly a bearing puller might work on the end of the slide hammer.  Might be able to borrow something like this from local garage tomorrow rather than buying it just for one job.

 

When trying remove water pump i smashed some of the water pump cast and oil came out, people are saying this is not normal? 

42 minutes ago, custom driver said:

When trying remove water pump i smashed some of the water pump cast and oil came out, people are saying this is not normal? 

No, there shouldn't be oil in the waterpump.  If the water froze it could have cracked the block between water and oilways.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

No, there shouldn't be oil in the waterpump.  If the water froze it could have cracked the block between water and oilways.

Anyways to test? Will it be oil cooler you think?  

33 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Anyways to test? Will it be oil cooler you think?  

You'll need to pressure test the cooling system to see if it holds pressure.  

The testers fit onto the reservoir and then pump air into it.  Leave it an hour or more then see if it the pressure is still the same.  

If the pressure drops then there's a leak somewhere.  Oil cooler might be wishful thinking as I'd expect it to be a more expensive part in all honesty.

Worth noting the cooling system won't pressurise until you get a new water pump fitted now as it's obviously leaking there.

43 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

You'll need to pressure test the cooling system to see if it holds pressure.  

The testers fit onto the reservoir and then pump air into it.  Leave it an hour or more then see if it the pressure is still the same.  

If the pressure drops then there's a leak somewhere.  Oil cooler might be wishful thinking as I'd expect it to be a more expensive part in all honesty.

Worth noting the cooling system won't pressurise until you get a new water pump fitted now as it's obviously leaking there.

What ill do is sort the water pump out, just throw a nee oil cooler on anyways, then throw a new auxiliary water pump on, then pressure the system then go from there, makes me wonder how the auxiliary water pump smashed into pieces, i mean the engine mount and the 4 bolts holding the water pump its all of its just the bugger of the pump wont come out, soon as i get that out i can crack on and start sorting things,  

 

So question is new top half or bottom half would it be? Thats if it's cracked? 

1 hour ago, custom driver said:

So question is new top half or bottom half would it be? Thats if it's cracked? 

Could be either block or head cracked.  Cast iron is more brittle than aluminum though, so I would be leaning more towards the block cracking at this point.

The electric motor for the auxiliary pump produces a lot of torque.  If the impeller was frozen solid then the motor will just tear it's way out.

56 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Could be either block or head cracked.  Cast iron is more brittle than aluminum though, so I would be leaning more towards the block cracking at this point.

The electric motor for the auxiliary pump produces a lot of torque.  If the impeller was frozen solid then the motor will just tear it's way out.

So new engine really?😢😢 Thinking of the worst already 

On 1/11/2026 at 7:47 PM, TomsFocus said:

Could be either block or head cracked.  Cast iron is more brittle than aluminum though, so I would be leaning more towards the block cracking at this point.

The electric motor for the auxiliary pump produces a lot of torque.  If the impeller was frozen solid then the motor will just tear it's way out.

So another attempt today mate wd40 soaked it up, heated it up still not budging, How far can i jack the engine up to get a slide hammer on the pulley? Do you lower them or higher them at this point? Tried looking over youtube and there is nout!

1 hour ago, custom driver said:

So another attempt today mate wd40 soaked it up, heated it up still not budging, How far can i jack the engine up to get a slide hammer on the pulley? Do you lower them or higher them at this point? Tried looking over youtube and there is nout!

I don't do Transits I'm afraid.  On a car I'd lower the engine to reach in through the wheel arch.  But I don't know what access is like on the Transit.

You can raise or lower the engine as much as you like.  Just make sure it doesn't catch or strain any wiring or pipes, and watch the exhaust flexi as well.

When you say heating it up, do you mean the pump or the engine around the pump?  Parts generally expand in heat, so in this case we'd want to heat the block area around the waterpump hole.

I'm now wondering whether the impeller got bent or twisted on your pump though.  It really shouldn't be this difficult to get out.

35 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I don't do Transits I'm afraid.  On a car I'd lower the engine to reach in through the wheel arch.  But I don't know what access is like on the Transit.

You can raise or lower the engine as much as you like.  Just make sure it doesn't catch or strain any wiring or pipes, and watch the exhaust flexi as well.

When you say heating it up, do you mean the pump or the engine around the pump?  Parts generally expand in heat, so in this case we'd want to heat the block area around the waterpump hole.

I'm now wondering whether the impeller got bent or twisted on your pump though.  It really shouldn't be this difficult to get out.

I scared to go any lower or higher to be honest, Ive been heating the front of the pump up to try and free it, So if the impeller got bent will that stop it from coming out? You know the oppersite side of the water pump where the impeller sits flush once fitted, there is a part bolted on if i remove that and get a bar and smack it out square and straight? there is a slight crack from the joint but its nothing that seems to budge