1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I don't do Transits I'm afraid.  On a car I'd lower the engine to reach in through the wheel arch.  But I don't know what access is like on the Transit.

You can raise or lower the engine as much as you like.  Just make sure it doesn't catch or strain any wiring or pipes, and watch the exhaust flexi as well.

When you say heating it up, do you mean the pump or the engine around the pump?  Parts generally expand in heat, so in this case we'd want to heat the block area around the waterpump hole.

I'm now wondering whether the impeller got bent or twisted on your pump though.  It really shouldn't be this difficult to get out.

Will an air chisel work? 

14 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Will an air chisel work? 

Things seem to be getting quite serious. These people can help .....

10 minutes ago, unofix said:

Things seem to be getting quite serious. These people can help .....

They mobile mate

12 hours ago, custom driver said:

I scared to go any lower or higher to be honest, Ive been heating the front of the pump up to try and free it, So if the impeller got bent will that stop it from coming out? You know the oppersite side of the water pump where the impeller sits flush once fitted, there is a part bolted on if i remove that and get a bar and smack it out square and straight? there is a slight crack from the joint but its nothing that seems to budge

Heating the front of the pump will just make it expand and get tighter in the hole.

I've never seen an impellor get bent on this type of pump (can't think of any other way for it to happen than ice), but yes I would think it could get stuck in if the impellor is twisted enough to be digging into the side of the hole.

Also can't remember what's behind the pump so yes if you think you can knock it out from behind that sounds like it's worth a try.

 

11 hours ago, custom driver said:

Will an air chisel work? 

I'd be worried about damaging the block with an air chisel.  It's your choice though.

7 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Heating the front of the pump will just make it expand and get tighter in the hole.

I've never seen an impellor get bent on this type of pump (can't think of any other way for it to happen than ice), but yes I would think it could get stuck in if the impellor is twisted enough to be digging into the side of the hole.

Also can't remember what's behind the pump so yes if you think you can knock it out from behind that sounds like it's worth a try.

 

I'd be worried about damaging the block with an air chisel.  It's your choice though.

So try to heat the block? Also been told there is a black plastic housing of some sort that separates the pipes like a pipe housing?? Gonna get a bore scope and see whats behind and how many bolts/nuts, as looking at some bare blocks and there is a massive ring in the block where the water pump sits, ill get a pic 

7 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Heating the front of the pump will just make it expand and get tighter in the hole.

I've never seen an impellor get bent on this type of pump (can't think of any other way for it to happen than ice), but yes I would think it could get stuck in if the impellor is twisted enough to be digging into the side of the hole.

Also can't remember what's behind the pump so yes if you think you can knock it out from behind that sounds like it's worth a try.

 

I'd be worried about damaging the block with an air chisel.  It's your choice though.

This is a pic of google same engine, the black plastic mould behind water pump 

Just now, custom driver said:

This is a pic of google same engine, the black plastic mould behind water pump 

 

Looks like this part.  One long stud and nut front the front of pump and one short bolt from the side.

https://ebay.us/m/ySgJqj

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Looks like this part.  One long stud and nut front the front of pump and one short bolt from the side.

https://ebay.us/m/ySgJqj

Yeah got that long stud out, Thats part of the 4 bolts holding the water pump on?? Pull that black plastic casing of and long bar and just smack it outwards?? 

1 hour ago, custom driver said:

Yeah got that long stud out, Thats part of the 4 bolts holding the water pump on?? Pull that black plastic casing of and long bar and just smack it outwards?? 

You're on your own with this one lol.  We're both looking at the same diagram, I don't know anything more to add.   It does look like that should work though.

On 1/15/2026 at 7:38 PM, TomsFocus said:

You're on your own with this one lol.  We're both looking at the same diagram, I don't know anything more to add.   It does look like that should work though.

Took the pipe of the turbo and it was like this? 

On 1/15/2026 at 7:38 PM, TomsFocus said:

You're on your own with this one lol.  We're both looking at the same diagram, I don't know anything more to add.   It does look like that should work though.

Loads just sitting there! Anyway to find if the cooler has failed? Is it seals or what that fail

9 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Took the pipe of the turbo and it was like this? 

There's obviously water getting in there.  But might just be damp from the air as it hasn't been run for a few weeks in winter.

There was a problem with some 2.0 EcoBlue where damp would build up inside the inlet pipes in such a large amount that it would get sucked into the engine and bend a con rod.

For now I wouldn't worry too much about that.  Just wipe out what you can and maybe leave the pipe disconnected for a few seconds when you first start the engine next.

 

9 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Loads just sitting there! Anyway to find if the cooler has failed? Is it seals or what that fail

On the 2.0 EcoBlue cooler, the coolant and oil seals are completely separate.  So if the cooler has failed then it will have split inside. 

There isn't a quick way to test it.  Best way is to remove it, then plug up three holes, hold it underwater in a bucket, and fill will compressed air to see if any bubbles come out into the water.  A lot of hassle so you might as well replace it anyway if you've removed it.

32 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There's obviously water getting in there.  But might just be damp from the air as it hasn't been run for a few weeks in winter.

There was a problem with some 2.0 EcoBlue where damp would build up inside the inlet pipes in such a large amount that it would get sucked into the engine and bend a con rod.

For now I wouldn't worry too much about that.  Just wipe out what you can and maybe leave the pipe disconnected for a few seconds when you first start the engine next.

 

On the 2.0 EcoBlue cooler, the coolant and oil seals are completely separate.  So if the cooler has failed then it will have split inside. 

There isn't a quick way to test it.  Best way is to remove it, then plug up three holes, hold it underwater in a bucket, and fill will compressed air to see if any bubbles come out into the water.  A lot of hassle so you might as well replace it anyway if you've removed it.

Defo more then just damp, its since this incident what i mentioned, That was oil and water mixed that was sitting in the turbo outlet pipe, there was loads! Any inspection to see if it cracked! Is it easy enough? 

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

There's obviously water getting in there.  But might just be damp from the air as it hasn't been run for a few weeks in winter.

There was a problem with some 2.0 EcoBlue where damp would build up inside the inlet pipes in such a large amount that it would get sucked into the engine and bend a con rod.

For now I wouldn't worry too much about that.  Just wipe out what you can and maybe leave the pipe disconnected for a few seconds when you first start the engine next.

 

On the 2.0 EcoBlue cooler, the coolant and oil seals are completely separate.  So if the cooler has failed then it will have split inside. 

There isn't a quick way to test it.  Best way is to remove it, then plug up three holes, hold it underwater in a bucket, and fill will compressed air to see if any bubbles come out into the water.  A lot of hassle so you might as well replace it anyway if you've removed it.

When i said is there anyway to see if its cracked i mean the oil cooler, Does it open up? Or is it just as u said bung the 3 holes 

12 hours ago, custom driver said:

Defo more then just damp, its since this incident what i mentioned, That was oil and water mixed that was sitting in the turbo outlet pipe, there was loads! Any inspection to see if it cracked! Is it easy enough? 

There will always be a thin coating of oil in the turbo pipe.  From the picture it looked like water has just added to it?

 

10 hours ago, custom driver said:

When i said is there anyway to see if its cracked i mean the oil cooler, Does it open up? Or is it just as u said bung the 3 holes 

No, if it opened up it would just leak coolant.  The oil is right in the middle so the only way to test is air pressure under water.  If you have an old style radiator repair company nearby, they will have the tools to test it quickly.  This is exactly the same that radiators and intercooler are tested for leaks.