2 will be fine.

Cheers Mark I'll give it a try :)

3 amp will be fine, I think that's the lowest size blade fuse you can get.

Found some 1 amp

Good for bridging gaps between brain cells i suppose :) dunno anything else that has such a low draw of current.

1 amp Mini Fuse:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1A-1-Amp-ATM-Mini-Blade-Fuse-B55-1-lot-50-pcs-/141581689731?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f6ed2383

2 Amp Mini fuse:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-2-AMP-MINI-BLADE-FUSES-CAR-MOTORBIKE-ATM-AUTO-/190554511052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c5def16cc

Sorted :D

And here's how it's connected:

I left the pigggy back on the rear wiper connection, which is on with ignition only. At least if something breaks I can manage without the rear wiper lol.

Found some 1 amp

Good for bridging gaps between brain cells i suppose :) dunno anything else that has such a low draw of current.

1 amp Mini Fuse:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1A-1-Amp-ATM-Mini-Blade-Fuse-B55-1-lot-50-pcs-/141581689731?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f6ed2383

2 Amp Mini fuse:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-2-AMP-MINI-BLADE-FUSES-CAR-MOTORBIKE-ATM-AUTO-/190554511052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c5def16cc

Good to know, not sure if the plug for the cam has an internal fuse so these might be worth ordering.

I watched some of the footage back from when they were working on it, quite interesting and they seem to take a lot of care with their work. Also funny that they didn't know I was spying on them haha.

I also saw their mistake, when they had put the fuse back in for the wiper, they must have turned on the camera with its power button, so it was running off it's battery but they thought it was being powered by the cable lol, and one of them even said "jobs a goodun". That's an honest mistake if you ask me. I'll probably send them an email just explaining the mistakes they made, but overall I'm not dissatisfied with the work they did. After all they are car mechanics, not camera specialists.

Hope you don't mind me commenting as I now drive a Suzuki Swift Sport. I loved my fiesta and I hope to get another when my 3yrs are up. I still enjoy reading the Fiesta forums and read your post.

I run 2 Roadhawk dash cams, front and rear from a piggyback fuse holder connected to the fusebox in my Swift. I used one of the spares that have no fuses connected. Usually there is a couple empty that are either switched or permanent live on a vehicle. This doesn't interfere with anything else.

My camera's are covered by a 3 amp fuse in their power feeds that I purchased with the camera's.

So with just the front camera fitted I placed two 5amp fuses into the piggyback holder to complete the circuit and replaced them with two 10 amps now both camera's are running.

I like the idea of the camera's powering on with the ignition but for me, I wanted to be able to leave them on when the car is parked up for a few hours. I therefore fitted them to permanent live with a 12v remote switch so I can turn them on and off manually. The only drawback is having to remember to turn them on when driving. I'm sure the fiesta will have some spare fuse holders if you test with a volt meter.

10 amps seems high for 2 cameras, I doubt the camera is pulling more than 1 amp probably more like 500mA. Check the instructions for the current draw and lower the fuse rating.

I will try 2amp in mine when it comes,i would say its better to be lower.

Just got a pack of 10 for £1.05,be good if one of the blanks are working.

Must have a mess with this.

2-3A is ideal, no lower no higher, The extension cables are rated at 3A, Standard usb takes 500-1000mAh This is low Amps for usb and this sort is not enough to charge some larger smart phones or devices that require 2mAh.

I think your Tech initially connected the camera fuse in slot 1 possibly blowing it. The primary fuse, the one that was removed to plug in the piggy back must go into slot 1 and the cam fuse go into slot 2

The only drawback is having to remember to turn them on when driving. I'm sure the fiesta will have some spare fuse holders if you test with a volt meter.

Yes I could never remember to turn mine back on when I used to disconnect it from the 12V socket to turn it off, and often went for a drive without noticing the camera wasn't recording. I was thinking about trying an empty fuse socket but didn't have a multimeter to test them. But I trusted that what the mechanics did was correct, and they just didn't realise they needed to add another fuse for the camera.

Check out my guide, you can use the same principals:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/236-fiesta-mk-75-hardwired-usb-charger/

Cannot for the life of me work out how to copy and paste a link from ebay onto here from my phone, but ive just bought a dash cam, and hard wired it into place. Its a Mio Mivue 538 Deluxe, the Deluxe model comes with free lifetime fixed speed camera updates. Done a few miles with it. And got to say its very impressive. The picture when viewed on a laptop or tv is VERY good. Easily able to read number plates, road signs etc. Not the cheapest model on the market. Seen it in halfords at £150 but secured one on ebay for £122, it's a very neat looking unit and very capable to. Didn't want to plump for a cheaper one off ebay as my dad has one fitted in his car. But even though his 'says' HD 1080p recording, when viewing them both on a laptop, the difference is worlds apart. Even has its own software to view your recordings with GPS, showing time/date/speed. All in all, an excellent bit of kit amd it my opinion, worth every penny......

Struth, that's worth more than my last car ;)

Cannot for the life of me work out how to copy and paste a link from ebay onto here from my phone, but ive just bought a dash cam, and hard wired it into place. Its a Mio Mivue 538 Deluxe, the Deluxe model comes with free lifetime fixed speed camera updates. Done a few miles with it. And got to say its very impressive. The picture when viewed on a laptop or tv is VERY good. Easily able to read number plates, road signs etc. Not the cheapest model on the market. Seen it in halfords at £150 but secured one on ebay for £122, it's a very neat looking unit and very capable to. Didn't want to plump for a cheaper one off ebay as my dad has one fitted in his car. But even though his 'says' HD 1080p recording, when viewing them both on a laptop, the difference is worlds apart. Even has its own software to view your recordings with GPS, showing time/date/speed. All in all, an excellent bit of kit amd it my opinion, worth every penny......

I will look at the e prance 0805 as it will fit under the mirror being so small.

Also did look hard at hard wire kit but went with another cigi lighter under dash,same fitting onto fuse.

Am thinking about getting a dash cam and have been looking at my witness cameras they have an offer on atm for front and rear cams plus smart power ect it's not cheap at 300 quid but they're meant to be good anyone have one of these?

I just want a good small one with small l.c.d screen so i can hide it as good as i can.

Seen some good reviews on the 0801 ones and thought the 0805 would be even better and only £99 area.

Also looked at the Blackvue DR500GW-hd but second hand but no screen all done on phone.

As for the hard wire kit,i like it a lot if you you know you will only use items with mini u.s.b.

Another lighter socket it better for me as i will use other things.

I have looked at the picture of the fuse box on here,so is it the 15 you have to pull out

for ignition on/off and which slot do you put it back into on the joiner i have.

Did read on here but just wanted to be 100% i have added my fuse box below.

I have looked at the picture of the fuse box on here,so is it the 15 you have to pull out

for ignition on/off and which slot do you put it back into on the joiner i have.

Did read on here but just wanted to be 100% i have added my fuse box below.

IMG_0387.JPG

I forget what slot number mine was connected to, but it is the rear wiper fuse which is 15 amp. Here's the photo of my fuse box again so you can see how the fuse piggyback is connected:

With the wire from the piggyback going up, the original fuse goes in the slot closest to the fuse box (on the piggyback itself), and the fuse for your new circuit goes in the other slot. You don't have to connect the piggyback to the rear wiper slot but that works for me, and an advantage of this is that a rear wiper failure is not that serious, but something else failing like the instrument cluster could cause real problems lol.

Edit: be sure to check your manual because your fuse box might not be laid out the same as mine.

Cheers for that mate,great help,all being well will have a go at it tomorrow as only had my dash cam in a week and left

it on all night the other day.

I forget what slot number mine was connected to, but it is the rear wiper fuse which is 15 amp. Here's the photo of my fuse box again so you can see how the fuse piggyback is connected:

With the wire from the piggyback going up, the original fuse goes in the slot closest to the fuse box (on the piggyback itself), and the fuse for your new circuit goes in the other slot. You don't have to connect the piggyback to the rear wiper slot but that works for me, and an advantage of this is that a rear wiper failure is not that serious, but something else failing like the instrument cluster could cause real problems lol.

Edit: be sure to check your manual because your fuse box might not be laid out the same as mine.

Good advice :-)

How easy is it to find a solid earth near the fusebox?

I plan to have a go at wiring my Nextbase 402G in at the weekend if the weather is dry.

Good advice :-)

How easy is it to find a solid earth near the fusebox?

I plan to have a go at wiring my Nextbase 402G in at the weekend if the weather is dry.

I took it to a garage to have the work done, but they connected the earth cable to a bolt just above the fuse box. I'm not sure what the bolt is connected to but this must be a suitable earthing point.

Yes i have also seen the bolt to use for the earth,seems a very easy job.

I think fuse box says slot 6 for rear wiper,well ford book does so will see how it goes.

All things arrived so getting there.

Here we go all done,put the piggyback to the socket lead by 2 bullet connectors and red insulation tape round just for the added protection.

Cable ties in 2 places to stop it pulling and another fuse that came on the lead so it has 2 fuses

both 2amp and all tried and works fine.

Just got to see where i want the lead now.

Ok, so I have now made a few changes to the camera set up in my Swift.

Reduced the piggy back fuses to 2 amp. Thank you MarkST.

Added a switch so that I now have two power feeds.

1 x permanent live

1 x Switched Feed (Ignition on and engine running)

^ Very nice setup there Chase, looks like a proper OEM setup :)