So here's what's happened so far. Took the car into a garage to have the dash cam wired in yesterday morning, and all seemed to be spot on. It took them only a couple of hours, cost only £29 including an adjustment to my headlights (which has improved them massively).

Then this morning, I noticed my rear wiper wasn't working, so straight away I assumed they did something wrong. Went straight back to them and they had a look, I think they said the fuse for the wiper was plugged into the piggy back fuse I gave them, and it wasn't getting power, if that makes sense. So they plugged the fuse into another slot, and he said it's working. The wiper is working but I forgot to check the camera at the time

So the camera isn't getting power now. I think I'll have a look at the fuse box in the morning, so if anyone could explain what the problem might be that would be a huge help. Also could someone please point me to where I can get a diagram of what my fuse box should look like, where the fuse piggy back should be plugged in to, and where the earth should be connected. Hopefully I can get this sorted, don't want to go back a 3rd time because it's not a local garage, although they are near where my parents live.

Here are the parts I supplied them with to do the hard wiring:

http://www.carcamerashop.co.uk/hardwire-kit.html

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321088780930?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&clk_rvr_id=784369231640&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Edit: I need the camera to only get power when ignition is on, which was the case after they first did the job.

So here's what's happened so far. Took the car into a garage to have the dash cam wired in yesterday morning, and all seemed to be spot on. It took them only a couple of hours, cost only £29 including an adjustment to my headlights (which has improved them massively).

Then this morning, I noticed my rear wiper wasn't working, so straight away I assumed they did something wrong. Went straight back to them and they had a look, I think they said the fuse for the wiper was plugged into the piggy back fuse I gave them, and it wasn't getting power, if that makes sense. So they plugged the fuse into another slot, and he said it's working. The wiper is working but I forgot to check the camera at the time

So the camera isn't getting power now. I think I'll have a look at the fuse box in the morning, so if anyone could explain what the problem might be that would be a huge help. Also could someone please point me to where I can get a diagram of what my fuse box should look like, where the fuse piggy back should be plugged in to, and where the earth should be connected. Hopefully I can get this sorted, don't want to go back a 3rd time because it's not a local garage, although they are near where my parents live.

Here are the parts I supplied them with to do the hard wiring:

http://www.carcamerashop.co.uk/hardwire-kit.html

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321088780930?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&clk_rvr_id=784369231640&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Edit: I need the camera to only get power when ignition is on, which was the case after they first did the job.

Hi phil mate,

See my install guide here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/65147-guide-fitting-dual-camera-dvr-system-focus-mk2-mk25/?p=438442

PLug the piggyback in to the instrument cluster fuse,

This is live on ignition only.

Wipers are constant live power,

Piggy back fuse configuration,

Top fuse is for the dash cam,

Bottom fuse closest to the fuse board is the original fuse that was in the location.

Next time save yourself 30 quid and email me man :)

Cheers Lenny I'll have a look. Maybe the fuses are different in the Fiesta because it was only getting power with ignition. Will there be a fuse box diagram in the manual?

Cheers Lenny I'll have a look. Maybe the fuses are different in the Fiesta because it was only getting power with ignition. Will there be a fuse box diagram in the manual?

Should be in the manual mate if its not on the inside lid of fuse cover,

There has to be reference somewhere,

So you want it constant live or only on ignition?

Should be in the manual mate if its not on the inside lid of fuse cover,

There has to be reference somewhere,

So you want it constant live or only on ignition?

I'll have a look in the manual, and I want it only on ignition, otherwise it's going to fill up most of the memory card with videos of parked cars lol.

Ok I've found the fuse box info in the manual, and the instrument cluster is fuse 22, which is 7.5 amps. Is that the one you'd recommend? I noticed the front 12V connection (cigar lighter) is fuse 30, thought that might be an alternative but it's 20 amps, and maybe it's best to go with the lowest amps you can get away with for safety?

Also I'm a bit confused as to why there are several different fuses for some components, for example the instrument cluster is also on fuses 13 and 15. Does this just mean that all fuses related to that component need to be intact for it to have power?

I'll have a look in the manual, and I want it only on ignition, otherwise it's going to fill up most of the memory card with videos of parked cars lol.

Sweet,

Instrument cluster is the one you need to plug in to then mate,

Sweet,

Instrument cluster is the one you need to plug in to then mate,

Ok I'll give that a try in the morning. My next question is about how the fuse piggy back is meant to work. Am I right in thinking I need to take out the instrument cluster fuse, put the piggy back thing in its place, and then connect the fuse to the piggy back so it also has power? And on the picture below, does it matter which slots I connect the fuse to, because it looks like there are 2 ways I can connect it?

Ok I'll give that a try in the morning. My next question is about how the fuse piggy back is meant to work. Am I right in thinking I need to take out the instrument cluster fuse, put the piggy back thing in its place, and then connect the fuse to the piggy back so it also has power? And on the picture below, does it matter which slots I connect the fuse to, because it looks like there are 2 ways I can connect it?

fuse_piggyback.JPG

Yes remove fuse from fuse board,

Put it in to the bottom slot of the piggy back adaptor,

The top slot on the piggy back is the fuse for the dash cam.

The lower slot should be for the original circuit, so put the fuse you took out in their, the top slot will be for your camera.

I'll double check mine in the morning.

You can connect the earth to a stud on a metal tube that ia just above the fusebox, just need to undo the nut on it.

Yes remove fuse from fuse board,

Put it in to the bottom slot of the piggy back adaptor,

The top slot on the piggy back is the fuse for the dash cam.

Right I see, so by the bottom slot do you mean this one:

And, without a fuse in the other slot does that mean the dash cam will just work and could be dangerous without another fuse added? Or would the instrument cluster fuse also protect the dash cam?

The lower slot should be for the original circuit, so put the fuse you took out in their, the top slot will be for your camera.

I'll double check mine in the morning.

You can connect the earth to a stud on a metal tube that ia just above the fusebox, just need to undo the nut on it.

I'll have to check how they connected the earth, I assume they at least did that part right because it worked yesterday, even at the cost of the rear wiper not working lol.

Maybe today they were just being silly and connected the piggy back to fuse 8 which the manual says is "not used", I assume that means it has no power?

Edit: wait a minute, I think I might have figured out what happened. Without a fuse in the top slot the piggy back will not supply any power right? So yesterday maybe they connected the rear wiper fuse to the top slot of the piggy back, giving power to the camera, but the original circuit was broken, so no rear wiper :S. That's my guess anyway, so if I'm right does that mean I need to buy another fuse?

Right I see, so by the bottom slot do you mean this one:

fuse_piggyback2.JPG

And, without a fuse in the other slot does that mean the dash cam will just work and could be dangerous without another fuse added? Or would the instrument cluster fuse also protect the dash cam?

yes thats the bottom slot mate,

If theres no fuse inserted the link is broken and wont work,

Must be fuse to bridge gap in connection or it wont work.

Bottom slot only bridges the pins of the piggy back fuse,

Top slot bridges power to the crimped terminal which in your case is dash cam

In that pic the 2 slots on the left above the blade are the common lives, the slot on the top right is for the cam the bottom right is for the right hand blade and goes to the OE circuit.

If you only had a fuse between the top to slots the camera wouldn't work if the piggyback unit was fitted the wrong way into the fuse box.

In that pic the 2 slots on the left above the blade are the common lives, the slot on the top right is for the cam the bottom right is for the right hand blade and goes to the OE circuit.

If you only had a fuse between the top to slots the camera wouldn't work if the piggyback unit was fitted the wrong way into the fuse box.

I think I understand what you mean now. I found some more info and didn't realise until now that the piggy back holder can be plugged in the wrong way. What's the easiest way to check which way to plug it in? If I know that the left hand pin on that picture is the live pin, is it easy to see which is the live slot on the fuse box, and does it matter which way round the fuses are fitted?

From my knowledge, modern vehicle fuse boxes double up as the body control module. These modules are highly sensitive and tempermental. I would suspect that the module is seeing the system is overloaded and consiquently shutting off the sytem. But thats solely on the y

theory that we are taught at daventry. Hope this helps

I can see this thread becoming a fiffty page overnight :)

I think I understand what you mean now. I found some more info and didn't realise until now that the piggy back holder can be plugged in the wrong way. What's the easiest way to check which way to plug it in? If I know that the left hand pin on that picture is the live pin, is it easy to see which is the live slot on the fuse box, and does it matter which way round the fuses are fitted?

I'll check mine in the morning but, I'm sure the the wire from the fuse holder should go upwards for it to be the correct way.

The fuse can go in either way round in the holder.

From my knowledge, modern vehicle fuse boxes double up as the body control module. These modules are highly sensitive and tempermental. I would suspect that the module is seeing the system is overloaded and consiquently shutting off the sytem. But thats solely on the y

theory that we are taught at daventry. Hope this helps

The current draw of a dash cam isn't going to overload the bcm or fuse box, my cam only pulls 800mA.

The current draw of a dash cam isn't going to overload the bcm or fuse box, my cam only pulls 800mA.

That's what I thought too, although the hardwire kit has a transformer which will probably use a bit more. Still even if I put a 5 amp fuse in, that would allow up to 60W which is probably 10x more than it needs lol.

I think all I'll need to do is go buy a fuse and stick it in the spare slot on the piggy back holder. The mechanic probably did the job 99% right, and just didn't know the piggy back holder needed a fuse in each slot.

That's what I thought too, although the hardwire kit has a transformer which will probably use a bit more. Still even if I put a 5 amp fuse in, that would allow up to 60W which is probably 10x more than it needs lol.

I think all I'll need to do is go buy a fuse and stick it in the spare slot on the piggy back holder. The mechanic probably did the job 99% right, and just didn't know the piggy back holder needed a fuse in each slot.

Do you reckon you could get your money back under those circumstances?

Still great to get it sorted though.

Do you reckon you could get your money back under those circumstances?

Still great to get it sorted though.

I could probably get my money back if they damaged the electrics lol. I just had a look at the fuse box and they did a very good job except for not connecting an extra fuse to the piggyback. Everything is tidied with cable ties, earth connected properly etc. Now just need to get some fuses.

I was thinking a 3 amp fuse would be ok, does that sound about right?

3 amp will be fine, I think that's the lowest size blade fuse you can get.

I got some mini blade fuses, four different amp ratings: 2, 4, 5 and 7.5. I'm thinking the 2 amp should be ok but what do you guys think?

2 will be fine.