TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Hi guys, Can't get my head around this! The compressor clutch works, the engine fan works, the system is showing a good amount of pressure, an the ac button must work as it's bringing all of the above on. BUT the air from the vents is no colder than ambient... I've got a good idea of how the system works but just can't understand what else can be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMcBain92 Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Does the radiator fan come on when you turn the A/C on. This should come on to cool the condenser. My fan has the common problem where it doesn't work so when i'm stationary with the A/C on it blows warm and you can hear the compressor clutch going in and out until i'm moving again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Yeah that's what I meant by engine fan, radiator fan would've been a better description lol! It does come on as it should. I had the same fault as you on a Fiesta last year, was as simple as changing the resistor so yours is probably an easy fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMcBain92 Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I tried changing the 'control box' which is mounted next to the fan and I heard it once before it stopped again.... Hope someone else knows the A/C system in more detail then me to help you Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmaldon Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Is it standard aircon or climate control? If the latter a self test will reset it and may fix the issue. Instructions Activation of self-diagnosis With the ignition switched on to position 2, on the E(A)TC module, PRESS the "OFF" and "FOOTWELL" buttons simultaneously very briefly, then PRESS "AUTO" within 1.5 seconds. The self-diagnosis which then starts lasts a few seconds. An animated display appears in the E(A)TC display during this time. Any faults found are displayed in the form of trouble codes. Example: First of all, "93" flashes for 2 seconds, then "42" flashes for 2 seconds - DTC 9342. If no faults are stored, then all of the segments in the display are actuated. Diagnosis mode can be stopped at any time by PRESSING any button on the E(A)TC module. Note: If the "DEFROST" button is pressed to end the diagnosis mode, all DTCs in the fault memory will be deleted! Fault Codes B1200 Any button of the air conditioning system Button jammed/stuck B1242* Air recirculation flap: fault in the circuit Open circuit/short circuit B1251 Interior temperature sensor: open circuit Check the wire and the sensor B1253 Interior temperature sensor: short to earth Check the wire and the sensor B1261 Sun load sensor short to earth Check the wire and the sensor B1262 Air distribution flap - defrost fault in the Check the wiring; defrost flap circuit positioning motor B1263 Air distribution flap - centre vents: fault Check the wiring; centre vents in the circuit positioning motor B1342 Automatic climate control module inoperative The trouble code is set in the event of failure. B1676 Insufficient battery voltage battery voltage not in the range 9 - 16V B2266 Temperature flap: fault in the circuit Check the wiring and the temperature flap positioning motor B2297 Heater housing outlet sensor: open circuit Check the wiring and the sensor B2298 Heater housing outlet sensor: short to earth Check the wiring and the sensor B2308 Interior temperature sensor for the fan Damaged motor or open circuit motor inoperative B2516 Blower: fault in the circuit Damaged motor or open circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks Bruce but it's the crap manual one lol. I don't think that has any modules that can be read or reset? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Tom, Have you tried feeling the a/c pipes each side of the compressor? (a bit cautiously in case they are very hot/cold!) The compressor outlet should get warm if the compressor is running, even if system pressure is too low to liquefy the refridgerant properly. A cold pipe coming back from the heater/evaporator unit, may indicate a closed vent or similar problem inside the car heater zone. I forget which side of the compressor the accumulator/de-hydrator is, I think it on the inlet (cold) side, if so the pipe to this should get cold quickly. (PS: You perhaps should avoid clicking the like button for this, even in the unlikely event that you find it useful. Have you seen the Site Home Page? I got a bit of a shock there!) Peter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 I didn't feel the pipes, that would've been a good idea tbh, something to note for future! It's my Dads car and I won't see him for a while now but I'll try to remember that for next time I see him! Lol, most useful poster this week eh? I'll give you another like anyway haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 I also forgot to say, the compressor must be working fairly well as the system pressure rose on the guage when the ac was turned off and dropped to the right level when it was switched back on. Exactly the same as on the Fiesta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 After refuelling and a motorway trip Dad reckons the ac is cooler now, but not as cold as his last one (that was a Ghia x with proper climate though!!). So no idea what's going on really lol. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't...who knows!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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