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so far the most annoying thing about my focus is the windows seem to want to steam up at the slightest hint of rain , so i did a bit of searching on the tinterweb and came across a video of someone testing different types of things to prevent steaming up and i was going to get some rain-x as i've used it in the past and it's good stuff which he used in the video along with other things one being shaving foam , so i thought id give shaving foam a try and it's just as good as rain-x i sat in the car with a cup of tea and half of the windscreen i put shaving foam on was crystal clear but the other half was misted up , so if you want to save a couple of quid try shaving foam (mine was the cheapest tesco had as i'm tight as a ducks butt)

all sorted :) I was missing a nav update (version 5.67.6). Downloaded the file below and unzipped to usb. Once installed I then got a popup message on the screen regarding the sd card not being installed which was was encouraging as I'd never had that before. https://www.dropbox.com/s/llahdixb1ctj6hx/NaviUpdate_5.67.6.zip?dl=0 I may have missed something earlier in the thread or on other links but I don't recall any mention of running a nav update. I'll try and do a more detailed post later with screenshots and links etc, but here is a quick summary of what I think is needed. 1. Download the navipatch.png, copy to usb, insert usb in car, select wallpaper, browse to usb and select navipath.png, navpatch.png will then be saved to SYNC, go to the preview of navipatch.png and press unlock. 2. Use forscan and ELM cable to change the following APIM value, 7D-01-02 00 to 7D-01-02 04. Basically just change the first two numbers after 7D-01-02 to 04, leave the rest of the numbers as they are. 4. Optional. If you have the colour cluster use focccus software to change value #172 to With Display - No Touchscreen, Colour-TFT, DM8 with Navi 5. After all the above is done and you don't have a popup in the middle of the screen regarding the sd card (not just the insert sd nav in the top right) you will need to download the navi update and unzip to usb, 6. Buy a F5 Navi card or make your own and generate the sdcard.key and place in the root of the sdcard. On my focus I used the 2nd radio button and used the hex values in the box including the 0x prefix.

I'd never noticed the Splash and Agila were the same before lol!! Presumably they have to pop to Tesco everyday which such a tiny boot so proper parking becomes boring quickly.

In a nutshell yes!

After a lot of searching, reading and translating, I came across direct links to Ford servers hosting the official EU upgrade files for Sync 2. No need to sign up to the Ford India website, just download, extract to the root of a FAT32 formatted USB stick and away you go. I did use the Ford India website to determine which language pack matches to my VIN for use in the UK. It shouldn't really matter as all EU language packs include British English, but I get a bit OCD so wanted to know which one Ford would use. That turned out to be Language Pack 5. I have read that you may need a minimum of the F4 SD card or newer, however everyone with Sync 2 in the EU should have F4 following the recall (if you have Nav fitted). Here is the full list of the Oct 15 update, if you are not from the UK, but another EU country, you need to make sure you download the correct language pack to include the language you want to be able to speak (and have spoken) to the car in: Language Pack 1 - German, English (British), Russian, Turkish: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack1Rev4.zip Language Pack 2 - German, English (British), Polish, Russian: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack2Rev4.zip Language Pack 3 - German, English (British), French, Italian: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack3Rev4.zip Language Pack 4 - German, English (British), French, Swedish: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack4Rev4.zip Language Pack 5 - English (British), Spanish, French, Portuguese: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack5Rev4.zip - This is the one I used Language Pack 6 - German, English (British), French, Dutch: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack6Rev4.zip US/NA Only (for our cousins across the pond): http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageNARev2.zip For 3.10, please see this post: Once you have downloaded and extracted the zip to the root of a USB drive (min 2GB formatted as FAT32), you need to remove all other USB sticks/devices from the ports on the car (Nav SD can be left in), then start the engine and turn off auto/stop start. Plug the USB in and it should auto detect the update files, then just follow the on screen instructions. You need to give yourself at least 30 mins for the update to install, in that time you can drive the car, but remember that anything normally displayed on the screen will not be available (rear view cam, sensor distance, etc.). Here are some before, during and after pics: Big thanks to this post on focus fanatics for the url and available files.

Found some pics of when I tried out VP's Bilberry Cleaner for the first time. Thought I'd share my results. This was in June before I sold the Volvo on for the Focus, but technically the C30 is a Focus underneath so it kinda counts :p The alloy hadn't been cleaned for roughly 3 months on the exterior and about 5 months on the inside - a good covering of Bilberry, agitating it and leaving to sit for approx. 5 minutes then wash off with a loaded brush of the Cleaner for extra power. Brought the rim up lovely even bringing the flake in the alloy paint up (factory painted). Thought it might be useful for those considering wheel cleaners :)

I would be surprised (and I am not being cynical, I would be pleasantly surprised), if a garage with a Ford franchise was able to do much better than you have. It would have to be a good one. I doubt if any additive is being put in. As a backup measure, I would put a dose of Wynns DPF cleaner in the fuel tank. This claims to be Eolys compatible, and does much the same job (various sources say it contains cerium oxide, the essential constituent of Eolys, but I can not 100% confirm this). It would do no harm & might do some good. Eolys, I have heard, does its job in the cylinder, while the fuel is burning. The soot particles combine with the cerium oxide, which modifies them to have a lower ignition temperature. Then, when they collect in the DPF, they can be burnt off during a regen, when the DPF temperature is raised. Un-modified soot my not burn, and may stick in the DPF and block it prematurely. So it may be important to minimise the amount of fuel used which does not have cerium oxide added. It does look to me like ELMconfig & Forscan are clearing the DTCs, but they are re-appearing almost immediately due to a real fault in the FACM, pump or filler cap sensor.

My Focus had a rear plate with it across the bottom...that sticker across the front lower grill Both are still on it lol http://www.buyyourcar.co.uk/used-car/adv/ford/focus/mtz_92684_42912470

its a new car so wear and tear isn't an excuse in this case....clutches are hydraulic so failure can only be down to a hydraulic issue is air getting into the brake fluid resevoir as they're fed off the same system or a leak on one of the parts such as the slave cylinder being faulty and having a small leak even if ure dad rode the clutch it wouldn't cause these issues ...is it common I don't know I turned my back on fords and haven't regretted that decision so the regulars will have more info than I would

Car looking great there, I love the colour too, that's the colour of mine. 😊 Another mod that looks good is the Nolden daytime driving lamps that fit in the triangles at the front. Very bright and adds a good stance to the front of the car.

I like the wheels matey I'm after a set myself I got the money just burning a hole in my pocket I'm just waiting for a mint set to come up

Good news! As long as the brake fluid coming out of the nipples before you closed them off was about the same colour as clean brake fluid then don't worry too much. The idea is is to flush as much dirty and water contaminated fluid out of the system (and any entrapped air) to minimise internal corrosion and restore the incompressability of the brake fluid. The more old fluid you get rid of the better but now you've done it once it'll be easier to have another go in a years time. If the fluid in the brake bleeder isn't contaminated you can reuse it. Brake fluid makes good paint stripper so make sure you clean up afterwards.

How do you fit the aluminium pedal covers? I'm looking to do this myself!

Simple answer buy them

It's a shame as the Vectra was actually a decent looking car. I remember before I got into Fords (and still had an open mind regarding Vauxhalls) our neighbours had two Vectras, and I actually quite liked them.

Ran for an hour out today. Not a peep out of it. LOL next time I drive without it connected you know what will happen :)

Agreed, as the factory tint is a layer between the actual glass you can't damage it.

A couple from Inverness. First one taken on Saturday and second one in EXACTLY the same spot on Sunday! Third one is a special offer! THREE for the price of one!!!

Hi, The right to a refund is 30 days from when he collected the car so in theory that has gone. You could argue though that any amount of days spent requesting repairs or having them carried out can be deducted off that. So, for example, if you have had a car for 40 days but have spent 20 days requesting/waiting for repairs and/or having repairs carried out, the law is that you have only had the car for 20 days. I've heard of garages claiming that clutches aren't covered by the warranty and saying its a wear and tear issue but with such low mileage, I can't see them trying that here. I don't know if the fault is a regular occurrence though so it might be useful to ask about that in the Focus forum.

Looks great Chris! You seem to have the "magic touch" when it comes to making cars look fantastic. I can only imagine what you could do to an old MK1... Not that I'm hinting or anything!!

Hi thanks , I have a great bright blue spark when I earth it out , I've had the injector rail out and they all spray si I know they are working , compression I can't check but I'll try to borrow a gauge . With a booster pack on it spins really fast so it's not that once it's running it's fab until I turn it off . Thanks for the input

I don't like going out to do a simple (or so I thought) headlamp bulb replacement on the C220, to find that the defective bulb was not simply blown but had in fact overheated and melted into the connector... So much so that when I pulled it out, the prong (not sure of the correct term?) detached from the bulb and remained stuck in the connector. It took 10 minutes with a pair of plyers to get it out without breaking the connector itself (thank God!). There does appear to be a loose connection now though, as after fitting the new bulb it loses connection if you move the wires, which makes me wonder if there is an underlying fault that caused the old bulb to overheat... Who knows, I guess time will tell!

Thank you I've just put on there so hopefully will get some help 😊

Cant help with an answer mate but they are cheap enough for the correct part brand new. Here's one on ebay new and genuine Ford. Its still worth checking out your local Ford dealers price too though. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160991040766

There is a specific Focus area of the forum for such questions, please post there and you should get some responses.

Nice job. Now you just need to protect that nice work.

I can not recall if Forscan had a PID for the PRV itself. I think that the clue would be spikes on the FRP PID when releasing the accelerator pedal fairly quickly, eg a gear change. If this happened often, and the spikes seemed too large, this would show a poor PRV operation. If the trace was normal, then got spikey at the time that a DTC appeared, this would also be helpful. You can monitor DTC count as well, this would show exactly when a DTC happened. But if it is intermittent, then catching it happening will be luck of the draw, and may take some time!

Nylock nuts are not suitible for exhaust purposes. The heat of the exhaust will simply melt the nylon part of the nut and affect the locking ability of the nut. Personally I would use regular nuts combined with high quality locking washers (for example nordlock washers) or 1-piece steel locking nuts. Next to this the studs and nuts must be made of the same grade steel. Combining 2 different grades of steel should be avoided. The part made of the lowest grade steel affects the strength of the mechanical joint so the connection will only be as strong as the weakest part.

It's the lesser of two evils! I'd rather have too much power (wheel spin) than the car suddenly bog down when trying to merge onto a busy roundabout. ABS is something I've got mixed feelings about. The Peugeot and Ford don't have it, whereas the Mercedes does. I actually had a similar experience to what you described last week when I approached a junction that I've done hundreds of times before, but in this instance the wet road and cold temperatures (late at night) had made it very slick, and I almost ploughed straight past it and onto a busy main road had it not been for the C220's ABS keeping it controlled and stopping just in time. That said, when driving a car without ABS (405 or Focus) I adjust my braking force accordingly (threshold braking) and use cadence braking if required. That is one thing I learned before I even passed my test, as I knew that I'd spend most of my driving life with cars lacking ABS, and I needed to know how to control a vehicle without it. T/C may be useful if it were set up to be a last resort (only stepping in if the wheels were spinning uncontrollably) and I wouldn't mind that too much, but when it affects the car unnecessarily - and potentially dangerously - I would rather have none at all.

thats good to hear, usually its battery fitment issues. i hope you dont let that ford dealer loose on your car

Fellow Dolphin Grey owner I see! I disliked mine so much I never washed it in the entire year I had it and only took very few pictures lol. Was more poor me than poor Vauxhall though...first day this happened... Fixed that and immediately noticed it wouldn't warm up...so £70 for a genuine stat 2 days later...

The Focus MK2 was available with 3 different types of instrument cluster. Which type of instrument cluster is installed depends on trim level and selected options of the car. Level 1 instrument cluster. This type of instrument cluster has a small LCD display. This type of instrument cluster is installed to the lower trim levels and does not have a trip computer. This type of instrument cluster has a button to reset the trip mileage counter. Level 2 instrument cluster. This type of instrument cluster has a larger LCD display. This type of instrument cluster is installed to the higher trim levels and has a trip computer which is controlled by buttons on the indicator stalk. Level 3 instrument cluster. This type of instrument cluster has a dual LCD display. This type of instrument cluster is installed to the higher trim levels with factory satnav and/or automatic transmission. This instrument cluster has the same functionality as the Level 2 instrument cluster. The 2nd display is used to display satnav and/or automatic transmission info and also shows date/time.

Awesome stuff buddy :) . I got Forscan so I'll run it while I'm out for a few days and see if it happens again. Sods law it will be ok for a few days or weeks now. LOL but at least I know the way to go. I assume I am looking for a big differentail between the FRP & pressure regulator readings?

Factory tints are actually an internal layer of the glass. Aftermarket tints are a film stuck to the inside of the glass. Sent from my SM-G930F

The fuel pump pressure is controlled by two valves. The IMV or flow regulator acts between the 1st & 2nd stages of the pump, and by depriving the 2nd (HP) stage of fuel, it makes it into a variable displacement pump, that only supplies the fuel needed, so not wasting power pumping excess fuel up to 1500Bar. The PRV or pressure regulator is on the outlet of the fuel pump. It removes surges of pressure that are too high, caused by the IMV being too slow acting or to imprecise to cope with rapid demand changes. First suspect here seems to be the PRV. This is now a replaceable part. See: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&selfil=2%2C3%2C1%2C9%2C8&selvel=Ford~Focus~2006~MK%20II%20%5B2004-2016%5D~1.8%20TDCi&_nkw=fuel pressure regulator Ford Focus 2006 MK II 1.8 TDCi Hopefully it is not the pump itself at fault, if excess pressure is the problem. It could be the sensor (as Povo above suggests), this is also now available as a not too expensive part. It could be the wiring to it or the plug. But I would guess that PRV (or its wiring or plug) is more likely in this case. Out of interest, I have been monitoring the performance of my pump using Forscan. This can give a detailed record of pump performance in real driving conditions. I monitored Accelerator position, rpm, speed, fuel rail pressure, and IMV duty cycle on the last run. It all looked quite sensible. If you wanted to do this, it just might give some extra clues. Fuel run below. FRP is fuel rail pressure. APP is accelerator, VCV is the IMV duty. The high pressure bit was going flat out up a reasonable hill on a dual carriageway. (Might have gone a teeny weeny bit over 70, but I corrected that as soon as I noticed!)

Hi Welcome post it up in the fiesta forum and someone will help

My previous 4 (I had two of the Vectra Edition 100 2.0 Turbos)

Ok, I have resolved the issue. I found there is a small microswitch in front of the gearshift lever, this switch was only making when in the park postion. The switch runs against some nylon part which i assume over the 123k miles and 12+ years of use has worn down a bit. I found that packing the switch up at the side towards the front of the vehicle tipped the switch far enough for it to make contact as it should, hey presto problem solved! Hope this helps anybody else with the same problem. The packing piece was just a bit thinner than a 5p piece.

looking good Looks very good .its hard to get multiplug for this otherwise you could just illumenate it . I once fitted st170 pods in my mk1.5 2.0 esp .bought it with loom already made. It was show purpose only. Then later fitted ghia trip changing colour & adding unique custom made dials face. In my mk2.5 titanium i fitted this Scangauge ii which gives allsorts of readings from ecu. Also a trip computer & fault code reader & eraser. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

@stef123 thanks for joining in mate I appreciate the backup, I work different hours each week aswell as spending time with family as result im not on here as much as used to be.

In Thailand this model is designated the "S" or "Sport" and has the Zetec S sport suspension, sport seats and charcoal and piano black interior trim. There is a choice of the 1.6NA or the 1.0 Ecoboost, which is so unpopular here it has been discontinued. Mine came with tinted windows, fitted rubber floor mats, power fold mirrors, rear view camera and rear parking sensors, and door scuff plates. It was missing a few things though, and had some Powershift problems, which the dealer fixed through warranty. My first mods were adding a mobile phone holder, short antenna and dash mat to try to reduce the glare. I also added some Velcro and bits to tidy up the cargo area. and a few "bling" bits.

Ah, I never really use the rear demist, would make more sense for them to come on with the front which I use basically every morning! The rear doesn't often fog over inside for me.

No problem mate I used to live on this forum but not online as much nowadays👍 while you have the glovebox out; you may consider fitting a USB power socket inside the glovebox connected to ignition live in passenger fuse board as saw in my discreet dual dash cam fitting guide here: The usb power supply is ideal for powering the SatNav when required without trailing cables from 12v socket, I keep my SatNav cable rolled up inside glovebox for easy use on dashboard. My build thread is here if interested to view:

The total length of the studs is not specified in the technical documentation. These studs are nit fully threaded but have a non threaded section in the middle. One end of the stud has 14 mm (M10) thread and the other end of the stud has 26 mm (M10) thread. The length of the non threaded section is unfortunately not specified.

This one is fine..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162233268021 The patch circumvents the need for a licence file. I' ve done 1 this way and it works. If you want to get the proper licence file go to .....chip ford.russia http://chipford.ru/aktivaciya-navigacii-ford-sync.html R.

Many thanks just fitted armrest console to my zetec and only took 30mins start to finish using your guide

It depends how much driving you have done leading up to passing your test. The more the better. I ended up driving my mums car to sixth form after passing my test as she didn't use it very often and it was the car I learnt in. That was only about 5yrs old iirc. The important thing is just to give yourself lots of time to think and react. Most accidents are as a result of people driving too fast or too close and not paying attention. The 1.0 focus is a great car, although I personally would have found it too big to be my first car.