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Also Mk3 has luster nickel finish vs the mk3.5 standard silver. I much prefer the older style I had on mine.

All areas open to the public including workplaces are considered smoke free zones where they are enclosed or substantially enclosed. Enclosed: This is an area with permanent walls and doors without any gaps. Windows and doors aren’t classed as gaps. An enclosed structure may be permanent i.e. a building or even a marquee (temporary). Substantially Enclosed: This would be a structure (with a roof/ceiling) with an opening in the walls where the opening would make up less than half of the area of the total wall space. Again doors and windows are not classed as gaps. I am a smoker and find it annoying that we comply with the law and don't smoke indoors but non-smokers still aren't happy. Where are we supposed to stand? In the road? I say that alcohol abuse is more anti-social than smoking but nobody whines about drunks staggering about. I am a considerate smoker, whereby I don't waft it at people or blow smoke into their faces and never smoke if someone is eating nearby (even in smoking areas of outdoor restaurants). The worst of all is ex-smokers, my Father smoked cigars for 40 years before quitting and drips like a busted tap if I smoke within 20 metres of him. There's far more serious and dangerous things in the world, get over it. Sent from my SM-G930F

Sounds pretty good tbh.

Hi all. new member here with a focus but missing my kuga, uk based (derby).

I checked the cap and the magnet was still there.. wasn't very shiny, but it was definitely there!!! .. the car has a capless fuel filler.. does that make a difference? I will do the basic checks and the battery disconnect.. if no change from that I think I may take it to another garage who may be a bit more clued up to see if there's anyway they can check the level.. I couldn't obviously see the tank level (or even sure I was looking in the right place) today.. Thanks again guys

Brodit (someone beat me to it) http://www.dsldevelopments.com/Brodit/resultsproclip.asp

I use a Brodit mount You buy a mount and then the holder for your phone. ProClip The ProClip is a mounting bracket for the vehicle’s dashboard. Onto the ProClip you can install e.g. a holder for your mobile phone or PDA or a handsfree set etc. Safe and convenient -always within easy reach. The ProClip is car specific and easy to install. The installation is quick, no special tools or dismantle of the dashboard is required and it will not damage the interior of the vehicle. Made in black ABS plastic. Comes with detailed instructions. Item no 654252 - Angled mount EAN: 7320286542524 Item no 654252 fits: Ford Fiesta 09-17 (For all countries)

Resetting the PCM clears all the learned values for a number of sensors, it is no wonder the car was running badly to start with. it would have taken a little while for the car to adapt the values, but a PCM reset is not something that should be done Willy nilly as far as know. It is also advisaeable to back up any modules configuration before doing anything so you can restore it to it's previous settings should anything go wrong.

You can find out whether you have it by putting your reg/VIN here where you'll find out lots of other useful stuff too. It'll eat you up finding out how much you could have had too! http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do As regards whether you can add it you'll have to wait for someone who knows more than how to copy/paste p.s. It has been asked before if you'd like to search

dont like having to do health and safety training at my new job. its online with 33 question and answer sections with most of them with a video first to watch before getting to answer questions. most videos are 20-25 mins long .im nearly alseep before getting to end. cant even fast forward. got a video going now about personal protective equipment. given up watching them now, got one running in the bqckgrouind while im on here. will check its finished in 20 mins.lol

That's the one :) Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

No problem,

Excellent, many MANY thanks for doing that for me. Really is appreciated. Mrs T is nearly convinced now, but we'll maybe have to wait a wee while until other more important purchases are made......................or until Amazon have a sale If I have any more queries I'll maybe start another thread or PM you to keep this one clear.

Radio Station Categories for all over the world: That went on forever with station after station hundreds I was like: 😩 that's not it, that's not it either 😪 So then I went for the search option where you scroll in the name👇 Result🙌 Glad to have found it for you mate, I live 280km away from where I grew up, and my mother always listened to local radio station in the kitchen when I was a kid, I can still listen to the same station thanks to the internet radio on the Roberts Stream93i I'm off rest of the day so if you want me to do anything else with it for you just ask 👍

If you're on facebook I'd suggest signing up to a few pages and asking there, a lot of people out there who could help

Ah now there's a set of alloys I'd have!! Proper brakes on the back as well.

Air filter box

My eyes must be getting really old, thats like a hard game of spot the difference comparing the 2 pics! They are a nice addition though Chris. I need to get my backside in gear and sell my 18" Zetec S alloys and tyres, its just too cold and wet to swap them over at the minute.

Been having a look at them online, get REALLY good reviews. Can I ask you a quick favour? Can you see if you can get a station called The Mighty 690? It's an 80s station from San Diego that we stumbled across and listen to most Saturday nights whilst drinking wine and reminiscing about the music etc It could be a deal breaker for my wife Cheers.

The 17s do fill out the arches better imo! I'm not a fan of split spokes personally though, mainly because they're a pain to clean lol. If you haven't already, get some wheel sealant on them before winter sets in.

There's a slight design difference; MK3: MK3.5 Biased I know, but I prefer the MK3 version plus they're a bit less common than the 3.5 ones as I believe they come with the Zetec with the appearance pack whereas the 3 version was really only on the TIT X.

Forscan does work on OBD1 cars, like the mk1 Focus. It is just that you might need a good ELM327 that has the full range of interface standards. Some Chinese clones may not work. There are several cases on this site of people using Forscan on pre-OBD2 cars. As regards investment, the software is free (for a windows laptop), as it is a collaborative effort by enthusiasts, not some commercial rip-off. And a decent USB ELM can be bought for about £15. For wireless versions on iOS or Android, there are low cost Forscan Apps, and there are some ELMs that work, although more limited. On problems like this, where standard scanners show no codes, it is invaluable, but it also has a lot of extra servicing & diagnostic aids. I have posted info about it quite often, including here:

The fuel cap magnet is just that, a little round shiny magnet on the hinge side of the filler flap. Are we totally sure there's no level gauge in there? It's rare for anyone to fully fill them from what I've seen, most people just seem to top up with a litre so they'd never actually be 'full' for the software to work out half full or totally empty until nothing at all comes out? Ian makes a good point though...I mean how well do you trust the garage? I've got visions of them trying to pour it into the fuel tank now...with the easyfuel casuing it to just pool around their feet... The tank itself is too dark to see a level (or at least mine is, maybe they changed to a more transparent colour?) so it's not easy to see how much is in there, I think you'd have to try putting more in and wait for the overspill. But if they just put a litre in it'd take quite a bit more to overspill which is obviously extra cost.

£415 Inc delivery. Not too bad I thought and a massive reduction on what the seller was asking (they were ridiculously overpriced) and are in very good condition with only a few little marks here and there. I was specific that i wanted these and not the MK3.5 version to keep the originality of the car. The money i saved will go on two new tyres when it get round to it! Yes you're right the 16" do look small, 17" are a good compromise between comfort and style I think!

Anyone thinking about buying a diesel might want to have a read of this. Could knock the premium price for six.

This is what I got in the car. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-LED-USB-Car-Phone-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-5A-25W-360-Voltage-Temperature-/131511485835?hash=item1e9eb2058b Displays the running live voltage of your battery when driving and also when engine switched off. When running it's about 14.6v and engine off about 12.5v. when you connect a phone to it to charge, it tells you the amperage it's consuming to charge the phone up. Great piece of kit and fast at charging too.

Thanks for the replies, I am taking it to another mechanic tonight and he said he can have a look at the alternator. His best hunch was also that. Will update you on what he says hopefully i dont get charged for something i dont need.

I think the lights look good my self with just the indicator tinted out.

loving the carbon wrap door pillars where they hard to wrap? the focus is coming along great. I would look for a set of head lights with the black back ground would make a difference to the front end

loving the look of the new wheels fella and like the colour

with a hydraulic clutch unless there's an issue you shouldn't need to keep bleeding it if airs in the system then its getting in somehow through a faulty seal or a leak ide be asking if there's air in the system and why they feel the need to keep bleeding it also if the brake fluid level has decreased if it has its going somewhere the clutch slave cylinder is fed via the brake fluid if its dropped it can indicate a leaking cylinder .on my mk1 I had a new ford clutch kit fitted and the cylinder went after 30 miles so it can hapoen if they haven't found a problem irs time to get the gearbox out check the clutch and slave cylinder etc.if you're unhappy you can reject the car

Couldn't agree with you more Clive.

@Lenny I used the siwtches LED to test if current was running through

They could certainly take a leaf out of many other manufacturers books. What a lovely experience you had, I really wished I could say the same. its already become extremely frustrating, I've spent all day trying to sort this out. The car was taken to the same dealership that it went to the first time the clutch failed, they arranged a courtesy car which took a couple of hours and within 10 minutes of my dad getting back they called to say they had bled the clutch again ( this is the third time, the last time only being last Thursday!) and the car was ready to collect. I'm assuming either they found a fault that was easily rectified and shouldn't have missed previously or we are being fobbed off again. I am going to go with my dad tomorrow to collect the car and see what they say. I will be mentioning the Consumer Rights Act as this is the second time they have tried to repair the car. I will persevere and ensure my dad is driving a safe and reliable car. I really appreciate everyone's input. Amanda

I had a mk1 focus. resistor pack went twice (you don't need to buy a new resistor pack, you can buy a thermal fuse on ebay and solder it on the resistor pack). the thermal fuse goes because of the motor getting stiff and drawing extra current and going slower which makes the resistors get too hot and thermal fuse burns out (which prevents the hot resistors from causing a fire). on mine both times it was because water was getting in bottom of fan motor and causing bearing to seize. It was relatively easy to remove fan (behind glove box) Eventually found it was because water was going into the heater air intake under the bonnet as some idiot had drilled a hole in the plastic above it. Sealed hole and it was fine after that. I could not see why anyone would have made a hole there. This assumes you have a Mk1. I have no idea what a mk2 is like in that respect

sounds like alternator. voltages sound a bit on the low side. what about wire connections on alternator? have you checked for corrosion etc? Are the battery terminal connectors in good clean condition and done up tight? difficult to be 100% certain though without substituting part

is the bluetooth device volume at full volume? some devices sony being 1 turn the volume down on device connection until you agree to a disclaimer and turn the volume up

could be a cluster issue then no idea why but I had a lot of mk2 focus that literally once they hit 10yrs old were all having cluster failures a ford tech I know an old boy told me the focus was never assumed by ford to last 10yrs anyway so none of the parts were really designed that way.there will be no diagnostic codes on screen but a proper machine will show random can bus error codes either stored or pending it can also be the wiring to the cluster to check I remove the cluster leave it plugged in start the car and move the wiring around you'll either get management lights come up or you won't if they don't its usually the dash cluster

Left the car out with the body shop guy this morning. Car is now back and those small lacquer marks have been sorted. Now I can get polishing :)

I tried the sealant idea, but, unfortunately,the leak is still present. So I finally bit the bullet and decided I`d have to have a new windscreen, but, in the event, Bee`s windscreens managed to get the old windscreen off without cracking it. They`d said it was 50/50 if it`d crack. So, assuming the leak is cured, it cost £70 + VAT, rather than £200+ !

I had a 1963 triumph which dolphin grey

Car looking great there, I love the colour too, that's the colour of mine. 😊 Another mod that looks good is the Nolden daytime driving lamps that fit in the triangles at the front. Very bright and adds a good stance to the front of the car.

Because those (first two) spaces are immediately in front of the shops, I think people just see the shop they want to go into and point their car in that direction... Who cares about being in the lines or straight, or even fully in, all that matters is saving a few seconds so you can start shopping!!

I am fairly sure the PATS flash codes will apply, they do to the Mondeo, and the PATS system is fairly standard across Ford's cars. There are variants depending on time. The IC failure referred to above is rather specific to a batch of Focus ICs made around 2006. Solder failures on the connector seem to have a very high rate on these. So the actual failure may be different, but the same principles apply.

It's part of the deadlocking system for the doors. It stops the doors being opened from outside. Should have a closed padlock button underneath? Sent from my SM-G930F

Was never a fan of the mist washer jets - Purchased them professionally painted from PaintModz Blackpool (Highly recommended) but found they sprayed way too much over the roof and sides of my car. Ended up reverting to the originals but in piano black again from PaintModz. Found it most annoying when I'd just ritually cleaned it only to be left with water marks all over.

looking good and you cant fault the chrome bulbs look much better then the fried egg look

The Roberts Stream93i is an excellent replacement, Could try local phone repair shop to see if they can fix the remote or try ebay for remote

The tailgate is completely different the doors. The doors have a connector inside the rubber gaiter which makes it almost impossible to feed wiring through. It is also almost impossible to detach the connector while the door is installed to the car. The connector on the body side is placed in a double panelled insulated piece of the body which makes it almost impossible to access the connector on that side either. I have done it once before (in order to install side mirrors with indicators) without removing the doors but I never do it again! It took me over 10 hours to remove the gaiters and connectors and feed the wiring through. Removing the doors will be much easier and a lot faster.

you say this is required for ALL bulbs, yet I've just managed to change both H7 dipped bulbs without the need to remove the whole unit - merely prized off the rubber covers and twisted out the holders. Yes its fiddly, and removing the fuse cover makes it slightly easier, but once you've done it once its an under-a-minute job... I will be using your handy guide to change the side lights though, fancy blue ones came free with the headlamps...