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Crikey! I could buy three used cars for that!!

Flipping hell! I could buy 7 used cars with that...

"That's the WoW factor right there" The designer frame with this coating on the lenses to prevent scratching and another coating to prevent glare at night when driving and this fee for thinning out the lenses so they don't look like milk bottles aswell as VAT @ 20% brings it up because we can ☺

i do hope you meant 58mpg and not 58mph round town!! lol

I'd probably look like a pasty if I lived in Cornwall

It's common practice to replace both sides since the car was invented, this is so suspension travel is equal under braking and also the ride height stays the same. No two springs are ever the same so they are matched at the factory, fitting one spring is a no no in my books. So your advice is to change one side only ? Nice one fella

I saw a taxi pull away this morning and it clipped the corner of a parked car! I shouted to the driver that you've hit this car, he replied by giving me the middle finger and carried on.

Update - On mine, Pick up Wednesday 10am, could have picked it up Lunchtime today, but Ford gave me no time to clear my calendar at work, so tomorrow it is. I'll drop some photos on if it actually happens

Vote 🤥 Who's bored of this led topic? Likes please..

That's because you drive a performance car Those who drive a slow N/A petrol like me probably won't notice much difference (if any) when switching to a higher octane fuel.

Cheers all! checked all the basic easy stuff but it was 100% gear box failure. After much umming and ahhing I had a look too see what other cars were about. I ended up finding a lovely blue 1.8 focus,its a wee bit older being an 02 model but its only done 46k miles. Car all checked out good,full service 1 elderly owner so handed over the 1300 quid. Personally think its a steal at the price. Car feels and performs great,very sporty compared to my old 1.6 focus. Anyway well chuffed so far,but ya never know wiv 2nd hand motors.

So bit the bullet last month placed the deposit and went and got my car remapped just yersterday, car was standard running 115bhp, 270nm (On the dyno, before), and now 150bhp, 350nm (on the dyno) It's a very well known fact that 1st gear is rubbish but it's done like that to protect the gearbox and all the other components, so with this in mind I had asked to increase the power in first gear enough just to be safer when pulling out and some roundabouts and junctions, which he did for me and it's much better. It was a 55 mile drive from my house and I was getting 48.6 MPG on a mix of 30mph and 70mph, on my way back 51 MPG with me booting it Gear overview. 1st - Enough power for pulling away safely 2nd - The wheels spin if I give it the full throttle 3rd - Absolute beast of a pull up to about 50mph 4th - If changing from 3rd at 50mph it just keeps pulling to 80mph and very quick! Normal changing it still pulls just not hard. 5th - excellent cruiser with the power ready to do a easy overtake, great to shift down into on motorway to do a fast overtake 6th - exactly what it should be has a bit more pull but tuner said it won't have it max power until I get the car to 90mph but i'll save that for the track. I was given the option of having the DPF removed but decided not to due to DPF laws changing this year. Insurance cost: I'm with Admiral and had an issue with the power increase at first but after bouncing some emails around at them I had £60 added to my premium which is great. All I need to do now is be mindful of the clutch, when the day comes for it to be replaced I will be buying an uprated clutch. But will have many miles left of happy motoring. Car is on 53k miles at the moment. Is it worth it? Oh yes!

Im looking for a double din touch screen radio have a 55 plate focus with a 6000cd in. Can anyone tell me what size I could get and what id need to fit it?

Hey guys, im really excited to say i finally have a new car and im glad i made the choice for a ST-3! hope to be around the forums for a while!

It's rear camera only, not 360. I've only just noticed it on the courtesy car I've got while mine is out of action. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Matt I dont think you will notice any power increase tbh but, it wont hurt occasionally as it has more cleaning additives than standard unleaded. BP ultimate/Shell V power/Tesco Momentum are the ones to use. It will help clean the valves and injectors. so you may see a small decrease in fuel use and smoother power delivery Jamie

Ah I see. Bit of an investment then long term. Understood. I'll stick with the programme.

Haha that's predictive text for you. Damn mobile phone. Lol

Lmao that's funny :) Well I've put the Miller's in too and not noticed anything additional over the fuel. Driving it spirited but within the limits me lud, car says I'm still getting 58mph round town. Love it :)

I paid £30 for the foam canon. I use pro valet snow foam £28 for 5 litres. I'll take some photos the next time I wash her. The results are amazing. The guy I used done 2 coats of wax and scotch guarded other interior. Cost me £300

The actual total opticians bill was higher (£881 ) as I got a pair of prescription sunglasses at the same time, to take advantage of the bogof on frames. How many used cars now?

You need the bluetooth module that is hidden above the glove box, and a harness to connect it to the head unit.

Well I sold the Karcher and kept the nilfisk and I'll look for a snow foam as you've suggested

BP Ultimate for me in my 2015 when I can. Nitro+ seems to make my car growl a lot more vs BP which seems to make my car quieter and smoother, and Shell appears to cause my car to regen more frequently.

They are stored in the internal memory of the Sync unit and not written to the SD card.

The karcher snowfoam Lances drink fluid and are generally poor. Personally I'd buy a good quality £20 lance for the Nifisk

You can ... I have a load of stored destinations. Can't remember if there's a max no ... and I will concede it is more fiddly than TomTom who make it delightfully straightforward. Also I'm sure I found when I updated my Sync 2 it deleted all my pre-determined destinations.

Hi all, I've just joined up with my first Mondeo and I'm looking for some advice please. I recently bought a 2011 Titanium tdci 140 estate from a small trader in Whistable, Kent. The car has 100k with full ford history and drives very nicely. When we agreed the sale I asked for a years MOT which the chap agreed to. The car passed but had an advisory for oil leak which when I questioned he stated that it was a loose sump plug and it was very minor and had been sorted. Two days later I found a large oil leak on the drive, where the oil ran out the back of the undertray, and so took the car back to him and he agreed to sort it with a local garage. He later phoned to say the sump pan gasket had perished and the car was now sorted. Now the cars been great for about 1k miles until I noticed a small splash of oil on the driveway last week. I then took the undertray off and had a good look and it appeared to be a very small leak from the inner edge of the sump pan near to the gearbox. I cleaned it up and thought it may have been residue from the old leak as it was very small. This happened again and so I phoned the trader and he told me to go back to the garage who did the oil pan gasket and get them to check. They have just advised that there is a very small oil leak possibly from the rear main seal or upper sump seal but it isn't worth the time/expense to address it yet. The trader is saying that the car isn't new so I have to expect a few leaks but he also said he would pay towards the repair if it is needed. Is the rear main seal a common fault on these tdci 140's and would it not collect on the bottom of the gearbox bell housing? The clutch is fine with no slipping or juddering. I'm wondering if its a leak from the sump pan that they haven't sealed quite right? Also are there any other common places these leak from? Thanks in advance, Alex

Hope this better quality picture

I don't like my guess of what my new glasses were going to cost (from trying working it out off the web site, although they don't give all options prices - about £350 I thought), and what they actually cost was somewhat out (£503)

If you think this is a problem get underneath take out the sump plug and drain a bit off( do it quickly so the whole lot doesn't come out) recheck the level and put a bit back in to the correct level. TBH a bit over the level won't hurt as lt long as its not to much.

The thing is if you check the oil after the car has been standing overnight all the oil from the upper parts of the engine will have had time to return to the sump thus increasing the level on the dipstick. 10 minutes after the engine has been running a lot of that oil will still be in the upper engine and therefore the level in the sump will be lower. Personally I'd go by what the manual says, and if that is to check it after it has been running then that's what I'd do.

As others have said give yourself a decent break every couple of hours and if you are a coffee drinker, take some strong coffee with you! Other than that, enjoy the drive!! Do you have cruise control?

"The car was only up enough to get the front wheel off". the height is irrelevant, if the wheel is off the ground then the weight is on the jack, whether it's one inch off the ground or a foot off the ground. I always put a piece of wood between the trolley jack and the car as the metal cup on the jack can cause damage to the underseal/paint etc even if it does not bend/dent any part of the car. I also chock the wheels as I realise there is more chance of coming off the jack with the wood there. Some garages / tyre places just jack it up anywhere with no protection and afterwards the lip of the sill is bent and / or you see shiney metal where the protective coating has been damaged.

Yes, it is like in old days to have someone outside to guide you in. Lol. Very rarely ​i would you self parking, especially in a car i am not familiar with. Than quite often i do either ignore "override" satnav or even won't use it and will only drive using signpost. My favourite and must have gadgets are, USB port for music from a stick, xenon headlights with auto leveling and quick change for continent so no need for those stickers on them. Keyless entry and possibly (as never had it so far) powered tailgate with that foot sensor. Plus tons of those little ones you do notice but save your life, correct your stupidity or lack of skills like abs, traction control just to name main (still know how to drive without them and some times - winter time turn them off). But than I am in that advantage position as a lot of us here, that we learn to drive in previous gadgets era. My first car was FIAT 126... LOL. So not only no gadgets but loads of maintenance and diy fixing and repairs. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Thanks both. Jon - yes; Titanium spec. I can see the longevity and brightness benefit of the uprated bulbs but the speed response is only really applicable for brake lights. Ian - I'm not looking to buy a set, it was more that I was just a bit perplexed that if the Titanium touts LED tail lamps as a spec 'upgrade' then it would be more than just different bulbs but rather uprated housing too (like the ones you linked to and, presumably, what are now available on more recent models?) that provided more of the aesthetic benefits of LED technology.

You will also get a harder ride and feel the bumps in the road more. If you have really bad roads by you then the wheels could end up like a 20p lol. I love the appearance of bigger wheels, had 19s on my TT but the ride is so unforgiving, I now have 16s on my Mondeo and Fiesta purely for comfort. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used to do Liverpool to Kinloss every other weekend in a 1.0 corsa back in 1999-2003 (had the corsa 2000-2002) and it was fine, never missed a beat. Did inverness to Oxford in 10hrs too and it was fine. Plan regular breaks along your journey, at least 20mins every 2 hrs or so. That's the best advice I've got [emoji52] enjoy the drive and stay safe Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I see the police have finally caught up with you Lenny 😉

Guide Fitting Dual Camera DVR System Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here

Thanks for the tips to both you. I'll give it a try in the weekend

Sounds about right to me. You could pay £150 at halfords for a service lol.

It's probably one of the two front, but when you replace it it's best to do them in pairs (so both front coils). Parts wise it won't be too bad, but your looking at a couple hours labour.

I got some alloys for it finally.

Language Pack 3 - German, English (British), French, Italian: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v38build15128updatepackageEULangpack3Rev4.zip

What you noticed was Less friction from that rear tyre that you wasted the millers all over lol heheheh I use Millers Diesel plus in my tdci st3 Jamie

Use the short end of an Allen key, far easier to push with. Mk2 is the same, took my stalk off when fitting an illuminated ignition ring on my old mk2. Sent from my SM-G930F

Not sure why he's jamming the screwdriver in at that angle. It's much easier to use a short one and push at 90° to the control stalk in the middle, feel for a springy bit of plastic and then slide the stalk off. Not sure if the mk2 is the same though. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

vehicles with 1.0L EcoBoost engines built from 04/2014 a variety of the oil level height could be recognized on the dipstick by the customer most likely after maintenance service. In some cases the engine oil level shown is a few mm over max. level chamfer. Due to engine build up tolerance and the variety of oil drainage and physical parameter there is a tolerance of 2 – 4 mm oil level over max. chamfer. This condition will not effect reliability or long term durability of the engine and will not cause any oil push-over. This applies to all carlines with 1.0L EcoBoost engine. so basically up to 4mm over is ok , but 10-12mm is excessive.

A cone air filter will give you the sound of the turbo spooling up and sucking the air in. Thing with a BOV is it sounds absolutely [emoji90] when you are in slow moving traffic lol plus, making a slowish car sound fast just means you can hear more for longer so add a remap to the sound mods and you're getting somewhere. If you are going for a bigger exhaust the steer clear of the terrible bean can ones and get one that doesn't drone to loudly at motorway speed. Most importantly do what you want to do and what makes you happy, it's your car and no one else has to like it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk