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Todays breakage wasn't electrical. Shower door fell in half as I opened it. 😮 The top plastic bifold hinge had snapped in two. That left an interesting predicament as I couldn't let go of the loose half without risking the bottom hinge as well. Managed to precariously balance it and grab some picture wire from the tool box to wrap around the two halves of the hinge. Not sure how long that'll hold though! Surprisingly, I found what appears to be the correct hinge on eBay for £10 delivered, and it's just screwed in, so hopefully an easy fix when it arrives. 🤔

Just as my 2018 Ford focus does, it collects the data of my location. It has to do this for the Ford app car locator to work. The Idea that it's only the Chinese who are going to collect data is laughable, all manufacturers are at it, and all those who use Google Maps are sending info to a company in a foreign country, if you live outside the USA of course, and that is now being built info many cars.

The manufacturer of the SoC (processor) in the phone often only provides a few years of driver updates. That time frame is based on release, phone manufacturers often use year or two old chips in their phones unless it’s the flagship product. The software on your phone does not run a standard version of android. Android is not like Windows where it can be installed to any compatible hardware and configure itself or tell you what’s missing for you to install yourself. Android has to be built as a rom (single software package) for your specific model with all the necessary drivers and manufacturer customisations. You are therefore at the mercy of your phone manufacturer to build, test and deploy updates which they don’t often have much incentive to do. This is probably Androids biggest problem. Google have tried to make the underlying OS code more modular so it takes less work to update, or working with manufacturers to try and provide more updates. But again once they’ve sold the device, there isn’t much incentive. You can build your own roms or use third party roms, this is Androids biggest strength as it is open source, except many manufacturers lock bootloaders to try and prevent this. The issue with third party roms is that they are not signed off by Google, so things like banking apps and anything that deems itself handling sensitive information will not work on third party roms. At least not without trickery which is a bit of a cat and mouse game. I used to enjoy running custom roms. Google used to actively encourage it on their phones. Then things started getting more and more locked down and harder to do that sort of thing, or even if you did so many apps didn’t work without googles sign off or frameworks I gave up and switched to iPhone. Apple at least gives all their phones 6-7 years of updates and they are all updated at the same time.

It's to early to say but now 3 days of driving without issue. I have to chech with forscan if maf still gives reading on not running engine. I have wiring diagram and test procedures from haynes. So I Disconnected the battery. Cleaned 2 ground points under air filter, 1 on top of the strut. Removed wheel arch, it's 2 more ground points there. Removed PCM, it's under wheel arch in a front. I had to drill original bolts out, 4, to get PCM from protective case. On reassembly you will need 4 m6 65mm long bolts. Checked continuity from MAF, MAP, Throttle body and Turbo vacuum solenoid position sensor on turbo. All checked out OK. MAP, Throttle body and turbo they all on the same circuit of power supply (4,8-5.2V and negative). So if it's dodgy connection on PCM all 3 items will fail or give wrong reading. Took PCM indoors and started cleaning all pins with 1200grit sandpaper and contact spray. Half of the little pins were covered in a white dust (could be corrosion). On the second day reassembled everything. I noticed engine starts much quicker and power delivery is more dynamic. I just hope it's not because battery been disconnected and all electrics reset itself.

Not used because they all recharge at home on a cheap overnight rate. Maybe they simply don't need to go to a filling station, if you could fill your ICE car at home for a £1 a litre, how often would you waste time down the local garage.

So this morning I don't the test in the expansion tank and the fluid stayed blue and never changed I'm guessing this is a good sign

Hi everyone. Sorry for the rant . I am at my whits end with this car. I have replaced everything . Bought 4 recon injectors from a place in Dublin that do ford parts. 2 of them have been replaced again . Car started and went for 2 days and now won't start . Fuel pressure seems to be dropping off everything I stopped . Its gpin to a different garage next week. Tom asked if it had a fuel pump in tank it does and that went as well. Tank is clean ,filter bowl is clean lines were flushed. So hopefully this man sort it .

Hi, Is anyone able to say what's involved with the valve clearance check called up as part of the Focus Mk3 1.0 EcoBoost 125 extended period maintenance (10 year / 150k)? Camshaft drive belt, tensioner and idlers -- Every 150 000 miles/10 years - Renew (LTS 21 304 9 / 21 306 5) Auxiliary drive belts -- Every 150 000 miles/10 years - Renew (LTS 21 567 5) Cooling system -- Every 10 years - Drain, flush and refill with Super Plus(LTS 24 122 4) Valve clearances -- Every 150 000 miles/10 years - Check. If adjustment is necessary, a separate order is required (LTS 21 213 5) I came across this video which shows feeler gauges between the cam (heel?) and valve lifter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvRo2E244Ug&t=318s Is that a good summary of what's involved with the clearance check? Thanks.

certainly true on older engines. Perhaps to a lesser degree on newer engines, but the last engine I pulled apart that much was my 1.3 Escort Mk2 🤣

Do you know if you can do the same with forscanlite? I have that on my phone but don't have a laptop?

There was an old train of thought that said checking the Valve clearances once an Engine had been set up initially was not that important because the Valves Seats will have recessed slightly anyway so the Valves will be sitting higher anyway. I'm not sure if that still applies to modern Engine design or not.

It is a good summary of how to check the clearances. Once all top end components (ducts, coils, cables, fuel rail, cover etc) are removed, they are very straightforward to check, as shown in the video. Problem is, if you find any that are out of limits, it's not possible to correct them without removing the cambelt and camshafts - requiring much more work. Therefore, if you want to check them (and correct any if necessary with new bucket shims), it's best done as an additional task to the cambelt (wet belt replacement).

Sadly not. Even my own Focus Mk4 2.0 Ecoblue has a wet timing belt.

Is indeed ruby red.

use this site and enter your reg. https://chipex.co.uk/

Hi, Your VIN posted above has a slight error. It should be WF0JXX..... [That's zero] Just tried to get the build sheet but as is common these days the site is down. @iantt might be able to help confirm the colour if he is about this weekend.

Fiesta paint code MH = Ruby Red If you send me your VIN number I can confirm it on the build sheet.

Bad idea. Yes it will need programmed for the immobiliser to work.

Thanks for that. In service history it's 0w30. I'll stick with 0w30. I'll attach picture of my manual. Hand writing is me.

Presumably a 1.8 TDCI? Yes, you can buy wetbelt to chain conversion kits for around £200 for that engine.

Ford Focus Owners Manual 2015 onwards See pages 264 and 265 for oil details. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3630_Focus_og_201501.pdf

I think that's the effect the OP is after! Probably the flexi section on the cat leaking on yours. Cat setup is the same on Mk2 & Mk3 Focus 1.6 sigma, but the insides are different due to different emissions specs.

Is it definitely a Mk3.5 manual? I think it changed from 5w30 to 0w30 at Mk3 facelift.

Not necessarily an affluence thing either. We've stayed in some rather swish apartment blocks on holidays where the permanent residents would have to rely on public chargers or have a block of chargers installed in the car parking area for communal use of residents/guests. A lot of this net zero stuff has not been properly thought through. I see that the other day, for instance, a committee of MPs called for Building Regulations to be amended to make solar roof panels compulsory on new builds. Sort of thing that should have happened years ago, likewise charger provision at the planning/build stage.

That shaking does look normal. You mentioned you've just bought the car, so take a look at the engine mounts. They have a rubber part which absorbs most of the shaking so it doesn't "spread" to the body. At some point those need changing so take a look now to see if they seem in good condition. As you said, there should be no shaking during driving/accelerating/braking.

On the Focus MK3/MK3.5 the PATS immobilizer system consists of (a minimum of) 2 programmed keys, the PCM, the BCM and the ABS module. Especially the ABS module is often missed in case of PATS problems. Also be aware that changing the PCM, BCM and ABS module will result in a VIN mismatch between several modules. This can also immobilize the vehicle. Therefore when changing on or more of the abovementioned modules the modules should always be reprogrammed using the VIN and configuration (both CCC/AS-BUILT and Direct Configuration) of the receiving vehicle. After the modules are programmed correctly the PATS system needs to be reprogrammed / initialized. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 uses the latest generation PATS system which requires authorized security access. Since authorized security access is both expensive and access to 3rd party repairers is extremely limited this is basically a Ford dealer only job.

Yes, I was thinking of the later version (1.1) where the Ford spec sheet quotes a different system on the non turbo. The spec for the 1.0 makes no distinction on the fuel system. It's clearly the 1.0 80ps non-turbo**, though, as said several times, and in view of the spec items mentioned (fogs, Bluetooth) most likely a Zetec. See brochure (if the link to pdf still works!): fiesta.pdf **and, as Unofix mentioned, due belt change unless done already.

If the mileage isn't going down as you drive then it sounds like a software fault. Like it knows you've topped up but the message is stuck. Might be worth disconnecting the battery for half an hour to try and reboot the systems.

It’s in an area that’s mainly flats and high rise flats. It’s not in an affluent area which probably means there’s not many EVs yet.

Hello, just introducing myself to the forum. Primarily I'll be honest I have joined to pick your brains. I do own a ford galaxy as a second car at the moment but have has a few nicer ford's over.the years including Fiesta RS Turbo back in my teens MK2 Focus RS FIesta ST200 MK3 Focus RS Ricky

Correct. As has been said above, the main engine is the same as an EcoBoost (3 cylinders, 2 wetbelts, even the fuel system is the same on these, unlike the 1.1 Ti-VCT that replaced it). It's just missing the turbo, and as such, no need for an intercooler or big turbo boost pipes.

Some parts are the same on some engines for the Mk2 & Mk3. Would need to know exactly which engine you've got and which exhaust part(s) you're after.

Hi Guys. New to the forum so Hi to All!!! I have new Ford Transit Custom 2024 and maybe my issue it's not the same i think refering to Sync as well, in my case once i connect to android Auto my Google Maps or Waze loosing location, to be precise showing only correct location only if I'm on east site of martime line so if i drive to Dover for example it's ok but if i drive to Reading it's showing like i'm in the middle of the North sea. I'm writing beacouse on Chera picture showing version number i can see version 915 when my 918 so looks like i have newer version then Chera. I'm wondering how if he have it installed couple of days ego. BTW after reading this topic makes me preatty dissapointed, the van it's absolutely fantastic (as for a van) but this Android Auto maps issue makes very dissapointing and then the Ford Software problems not being resolved for such a long time...

Of course, you'd need to carry 2 to compensate for a driver or passenger side failure 😂

I'm sure in some countries on the continent, it is a legal requirement to carry a spare bulb kit in your car. What happens if you have LED headlights, do you have to carry a large headlight unit in case the LEDs fail?

Thanks for your replies, Is their anyway of categorically, clarifying if they are the longer 90 spec or the shorter 88 spec? Do the part numbers identify the difference as Paulkp suggests? Or does anyone have a measurement of the bracket to hand? They have a Ring sticker on the lense not a ford sticker hence why I wondered if the spots were factory or not? I will be selling them and wanted to be accurate in advertising them. Thanks again for your input.

Evening all just joined here are some of my old fords

I've attached the engine layout. From looking in the owners manual it seems to be most similar to Ecoboost, but lacking the big pipe on the left hand side of engine

@Chera, thanks for sharing. Checked the versions of my Synch to your screenshot of Wednesday at 12:24 PM, both are the same. Mine is like this since October, since the map freezes startet. So probably your proposed action for system updates referring to SSM 52379 or TSB-24-2034 might not lead towards a solution for the map freezes. Report of today, twice about 30min of driving: No freezes yet. After workshop "hard reset". Will see.

Software provided by Fujitsu and policy updates controlled by Paula Vennells, what could possibly go wrong ?

UPDATE: Apparently, the Dealership and Ford rep still couldn't find any reason for the constant regenning, so at my request (via one of the decent mechanics) they tried rolling back the update. After several hundred miles of test driving the engine was producing less soot, and didn't regen once - so they say. Problem solved. I now have the van back and have fingers crossed the ordeal is over. The update was done on the day of it's warranty running out, also the day of its first mot, almost 18 months ago. Dealership told me the update was to do with Nox Emissions. Well, there's a surprise. Very suspicious, potential covert behaviour from Ford imo. I'm yet to have the vehicle tested for emissions, despite requesting the dealership to do so - they didn't. Will keep an eye on the oil levels weekly. Absolutely done with the dealership now and will NEVER go there again unless the fault hasn't been fully cured. Now i have a decision as to whether i should proceed with legal action. The dealership carried out the update on Ford's behalf. They didnt offer me the option to refuse it. I've had 18 months of utter ball-ache, days and days off work, hours upon hours of wasted time arguing with them that it wasn't my 'driving style' - they loved to claim it was, despite no evidence suggesting so. Time after time being spoken to like an idiot. The director of the dealership couldn't even read a ***** dipstick - stating it was not over the max level when it was almost an inch over. The risk of driving their courtesy vehicles for almost 6 months whilst mine sits on the forecourt loosing value. The state of my vehicle diminished every time they had it for a prolonged time. Numerous scrapes and scratches to the body work. The interior seats and upholstery looking dirty and fatigued. The engine bay rusting and looking older than it should. I just hope they haven't done anything else to sabotage it. I literally wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. I've taken the time to sort all the scratches and marks on it myself - there's no way i'm going to leave it with them to do. If you want a job done well, do it yourself. Certainly don't expect the dealership to do a good job imo. I'll update this thread in a few weeks after doing some miles in her. As for others, if you are having similar issues, you must enquire about what updates they have done to the software and why - although the 'why' will be like getting blood from a stone. They seem to do these updates behind a shroud of secrecy. On top of all that, I'm now making a 'mydieselclaim' as according to preliminary data, my vehicle has been affected by the upcoming Ford diesel-gate law suit. Good luck all. Peace.

Classic symptoms of common fault of cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster connector. Have a read: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915 Almost no oil?? That's a serious concern. It seems you've got a leak between engine oil and coolant passages. You'll want to get this looked into urgently for the sake of your engine.

Sounds like things are moving on then. Good luck. As there is no progress indicator in the car, you might be able to look on your WiFi router logs to see if your car is connected and downloading.

My local supermarket now has 8 “ultra fast” charging points. Never seen more than 2 being used. My research says EV owners usually have a plethora of payment methods. Also if you don’t have a smartphone you may have a problem. Depends on the car too, some will charge in half hour, others ie CHAdeMO you’d need a hotel room.

Rust is the main thing for Mk2's now. Other MK2 checks would be: Water leaks through boot & doors. Electronic faults with cluster & GEM. Creaks and rattles from rear suspension. Check AC works if that's something you use. And if it's a cambelt engine, make sure that's been done as it's well overdue on time if not, despite the low mileage.

Swapped my 2016 Zetec S 140PS Red Edition for a new 2017 ST-Line 140PS Red Edition. In case anyone is wondering about Bluefin compatibility with this model, it works even better than the last one. I used the same bluefin device (just had to reset it with Superchips first.)

Hey Rick, word of advice, make sure the bluefin software on your PC/laptop is the most uptodate version. There are (stupidly) two links on the mybluefin website to download the software, one is version 4.0.0.50 from 2012 and the other is 4.0.1.67 which is the latest. I had the old one installed, and it didnt write to the bluefin device properly, when i tried installing the map on the car it caused an error and activated the immobiliser, wouldnt let me start the car and the bluefin wouldnt install any of the maps just kept throwing up an error message. After alot of messing about and ringing them i got it sorted, they were very helpful, but it seems the older pc software was the culprit, so to avoid my troubles I'd check the version of the one you have. If you have the older version you can get the new version at www.mybluefin.co.uk/software/bluefin Thought I'd killed the car at one point, was s**ting it

He's a spammer, removed posts. Ignore the preposterous claims.

Lol! What a ****! Sling it through his window

I just love the idea of having a car that punches well above its weight.