Leaderboard

Some pics

Been for a run with the Nightbreakers; massive difference over standard and not much different to HID's in all fairness, though my HID kit was 4 and a half years old.

The MIL light recently came on my 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci. I used a ELM 327 OBDII interface (£10 from ebay) and app for the iphone to read the fault codes which came back as "P2263 Turbocharger/Super Charge Boost System Performance" and a couple of others (see attached photo below) . Fault code screen grab from the iPhone I noticed the MIL light came on shortly after servicing the car but for some reason I was fairly certain it was just a coincidence. When driving the car it noticeably had less power and fuel economy had dropped down to 18 mpg (normally around 35mpg for city driving). Also the MAF was showing around 3lb/min on the OBD read out but they were all the symptoms I noticed. OBD values for various parameters (before fault was fixed) I then read all available forums to find out what might have caused the fault could before attempting to fix it. From what I read the possible causes for a P2263 fault code where: Stuck/ faulty turbo actuator ERG value stuck open Faulty MAF sensor Split inlet pipe between turbo and inlet manifold The first thing I did was disconnect the MAF sensor, cleared the fault code and took it for a run. By disconnecting the MAF it makes the PCM use a default setting and if its the problem you should see the car run close to normal so I was expecting the power at least to return. After the run the car was still down on power and the MIL late came back on again a day later. Based on this I figured it was not the MAF sensor. MAF sensor location on the inlet manifold Next thing I did was check for a split inlet pipe between the turbo (in behind the engine and very hard to get at) and the inlet manifold. I got the wife to rev the car between 2,000 -3,000 rpm while I inspected all the hoses on both sides of the inter-cooler. This required taking the splash guard off and getting underneath the vehicle as well as looking in from under the bonnet to check all pipes. I found nothing that suggested a split pipe. All pipes looked to be in good condition and I couldn't hear or feel air rushing out anywhere. The next thing I did was inspect the EGR valve. It is not easily got to as it is behind at the back and on the right. You need to remove the plastic shroud that runs across the top at the base of the windscreen. You remove the wipers, pull off 6 clips, undo two screws and the whole thing comes off fairly easily. I took off the pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold to check the EGR function. It was very easy to do with a couple of 10 mm bolts holding on the pipe and a couple of clips. The EGR valve itself looks like it would be quite difficult to take off as some of the bolts holding it on are very hard to get at so I decided not to bother. Neither the pipe nor the EGR valve looked very caked up with soot which was surprising from all of the stories I have read and heard (the motor has done 85,000 miles). Both were relatively clean. On inspection I could see the EGR valve was closed so figured it couldn't be the problem. To be sure I got my wife to rev the car up a few times while inspecting and it open and shut as it is supposed to. It looked fine so I discounted it as the problem. While I had the pipe off I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in and around the valve then I blanked it off with a blanking plate (£4 from ebay) and put it back together. (I have attached some photos of the EGR valve and pipe). EGR valve location and inlet manifold connecting pipe Through the process of elimination I now only had the turbo left to inspect which I was dreading inspecting as it is so hard to get at as the turbo is low on the engine and right at the back. You can't even see it from the top from looking under the bonnet so you need to get down under the car to see it. I already had the splash guard off so I climbed underneath the car with a torch to inspect the turbo. (I have attached a few photos of the turbo itself and the actuator). Once again I got the wife to rev the car and realised the actuator was not working as nothing was moving. It has an electric wire plug which attached on top of the diaphragm which I figured was the sensor/actuator switch. There was also the diaphragm (vacuum operated) and a small vacuum pipe coming off it. The first thing I did was push the actuator gently a few times with a screw driver to see if it was stuck. It seem to move freely. I then suspected the vacuum hose that operates the diaphragm may have been split or had come off. I followed it back to a sort of union box that is located on the right of the engine at front between the airbox and engine. From there I followed it back to where it connects to the engine and gets it's vacuum which is a location on the right of the inlet manifold and is very close to the oil filter. On inspection I immediately found my problem. The pipe had come off the nipple causing the turbo actuator to get no vacuum. I must have knocked it off accidentally when replacing the oil filter during the service. I pushed it back on, cleared the engine fault codes and then started the car up. I immediately notice the intake manifold and MAF airflow readings where much higher. Below are some photos of the turbo, diaphragm and actuator (it was hard to get a good photo) The vacuum hoses that operate the turbo actuator located under the inlet manifold and close to the oil filter I put everything back together and then took the car for a drive on the motor way. I immediately noticed it's power was back and it was very responsive. I reset the mpg gauge and was immediately getting ~55mpg on the highway which is about average though it was a fairly short trip. I haven't checked city driving yet. So far it seems to be running how it should/ used to and I am very happy I diagnosed the fault and it only cost me a few hours of my time OBD values for various parameters (after fault was fixed) The moral of the story is to be very careful when changing the oil filter on the 2.0 tdci duratorq motor as found on the Ford Focus and various other cars. You can easily knock off the vacuum hose that operates the turbo actuator and this will lead to the MIL light coming one due to a P2263 fault code.

NightBreaker H7 Dipped main beam Outside Inside

My first post on this forum and Hello everyone.. My Mk 4 has the basic reflector headlights and the dipped beam is dangerous it is so poor. I was always dubious of Christmas tree type car headlights (shiny plastic crap that are form over function) I have also tried bulb upgrades. Most of the so called 100 watt h 7 I tried were less than 50 watts. The best I could find were lucas Rally booster the box said 100 watt off road intense blue xenon. The light was more of a standard yellow however the wattage was a measured 74.5 watt at 13.8v. Even with an extra 14 watts over my existing standard bulbs the dipped beam is dangerously low. I will be upgrading to projector headlamps ASAP and hope this fixes the issue. The main beam is much better than my mk 2 mondy and a basic headlamp bulb works best for me. I have tried some of the blue coated ones but that ruined the high beam in my case. I have to say be careful when buying any upgrade bulbs. The quality will never match the cost and some of the claimed wattages are just not true. The best of the 100 watt upgrades are only ever 75 watts and most standard 55 watt rated bulbs are greater than 55 watts any how. So gains in light output are minimal for the cost involved. Equipment used in my tests: palstar 50 amp 13.8v regulated psu and Fluke true rms 175 multimeter.

Had over 200k on my 2005 2.0 tdci with no probs.Its still on the road now doing pizza delivery

Check that the air settings are not on recirculation

Hi welcome :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So these babies arrived in the post today. Going to get a couple of mates over next week to get them fitted which is quite exciting ! The reversing camera was meant to turn up today but is now due on Monday. Was planning to fit that this weekend as a mini mod but oh well. Stay tuned :)

I have to say, that is one clean car!

Our little dog has a harness & loves travelling :)

Gone for the 1litre ecoboost, 125ps, Unless you get the 1.5 auto (150ps) or an st of some sort, its the quickest engine, the 1.6 natural asspirated is still 125 ps so id take the turbo over that anyday haha!

I have seen a MK2 Focus 1.6TDCi with over 450K on it, still going strong according to the eBay listing.

Like a Mustang relief service

"you pay me, I take your mustang" Thems the sorta figures I need...

I'll get you some later if you like.

Its a whole new headlight i think, but i do love them!

Haha my dad says the same! Had the car a day and im changing all the bulbs and looking for mods Id say youd be silly to not get the splitter, it will chance the apperance loads, and its only 6 holes to be drilled, takes 10 mins to fit! Whilst we are onabout lights, have you considered the led conversion for the back lights ?! I think they look awesome, was gonna get them on mi e, but focus has them as standard!

To be fair i think the lights on the new focus look pretty mean! Plus there arent any out there yet haha! Still waiting on triple r composites to make a front splitter for it! You should have a look on there website, all sorts of splitters and brows for your fiesta, had them on my old one and looked the dogs !Removed! haha!

That often happens when you ask someone to keep an eye/do something, because you're otherwise engaged. They're never as diligent as you hoped they would be or you are :(

The clips basically push the wind deflector to the side so the windows fit in the middle of the clip.

I completely agree with you there! Put them in my focus zetec s the other day and they now match the running lights instead of a white strip and yellow light! I havent really noticed a difference under street lighting other than it being alot whiter , but on country roads or roads that are not well lit you can really tell the difference. Still not as good as my hid's, but they are a great light for just a bulb upgrade ☺

How very patronising of you! Next you'll be saying he didn't indicate before the overtake! ;) :)

These

I have 210,000 miles on my mondeo dtci.just had to do diesel pump.still pulls like a train

Is that like the kind of deal where you can buy an entire island for just under a million? It's a cracking deal if you have a spare Mil....

My foot tattoo one of them n sleve

its alwasys good practice at night when you know its going to freeze, to equalise the air temp on the window, that's usually how you end up with ice inside the car, the warm air condenses then freezes. blast the cabin with cold air for a few min before you stop and your morning routine will be much easier!

Do like this fiesta Zetec s from the TripleRcomposites site. Willy. One for you maybe?😏 Splitter? Brows?

Welcome to the world of modding, I would first sit down and think about exactly what you are wanting to achieve with your car, are you wanting an all out show car? An all out performance car? Or something really subtle? Its all down to personal choice, for me I usually go with some simple subtle mods and tweaks that will make the car slightly better or more fun to drive. Before you start though, please also be aware that mods can be costly both to purchase but also for the insurance as you need to declare all of your mods. You should also ensure that your car is well serviced and in a good condition, a 'free' performance mod is usually to give the car a good service! As you are new to modding and so are perhaps looking for some basics to start out I would suggest some of the following: LED sidelights, number plate lights - cheap to buy and easy to fit Colour coding any plastics - your car looks fairly colour coded but adding in small details can make a difference Upgrading the head unit and speakers - not too expensive these days and will make the car a nicer place to be Wind deflectors - simple to fit and do make the car look different, also have the benefit of cutting down wind noise Repainting wheels - changing the wheel colour from silver to something like gunmetal gray Some simple performance mods are usually: Drop in high flow air filter (Green cotton is a good brand) - Gives better throttle response and a nice induction noise Cat back exhaust system - should bolt straight onto the stock system, lets the engine breathe better and also sounds good My advice would be to start small and work your way up to larger things, see if there are any forum members around that could help you out with bits.

Having compared the ST and the Red Edition, if you do serious miles I can totally understand your decision. I have no regrets in choosing the Red, it's a very capable car and a perfect set up for our roads.

Did pick these up from Amazon earlier for a tenner. Thought I might as Well!😏😏

Hmm.. tempting for when I get the smoothed facelift bumper done.. eBay 321906666731

Lift the boot carpet up and the carpet that runs up the side in the boot corner,tailgate end and have a look around the air vent and void between the panels. I've taken the air vent out,outside, looking in.This is my Mk1 but I think the MK 2 is similar. Sent from my iPad using Ford OC

I am physically unable to read that pudding name either here or in a restaurant without giggling *shameface*

estates will one day rule the world ! i laugh in the face of buggatti veyron drivers in the ikea car park as my flat pack furniture slots straight in the boot...... ;-)

What about home steamed things? Like the spotted !Removed! (Richard, if the censor software removes it) I've got under way in on the hob

At the current rate of mileage, that's oil changes every 750 miles There's a admittedly a TDDi not a TDCi, Mk1 Focus, that's done 799K in Romania, on it's original engine. Can't remember where I came across it though.

Its a Keeper then Ghana It owes you nothing which is good, Keep its oil changed and it should keep going :-) Jamie

My 1.8TDCi is currently on 180,000, However, it will take me a while to get to 200K+, as I only seem to do around 1500 between MOTs, nowadays

I got all mine done by Chris at Paintmodz he does free fitting and swaps out your old parts to make it cheaper have a look at his Facebook page Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

RIght, I have got the car back from having the cambelt and aux belt done, they have also added some beadseal to one of the alloys, I have a feeling I might need to get that replaced, they seem to only be around £130 new so not too bad. Anyway, I have given the car a small clean and fitted the rear LED numberplate lights, although not 100% dark yet I can see that they are much better and seem to lift the whole back end of the car and make it seem more modern. I will take some photos soon, I have taken a few phone photos initially, my good camera is elsewhere. I have also done a few checks on various combos with regards to the intake setup, here is what I have found: The intake snorkel has a 90 degree bend towards the back of the passenger headlight The front air intake behind the grill is 80% blocked by the intake snorkel piece The end of the intake is 2" diameter - the whole engine has to breathe through this 2" pipe even though the airbox is quite large! Removing this snorkel seems to give a bit of an improvement with regards to throttle response and a bit of mid range I then thought I would look at the airbox itself, the paper filter is 100% brand new, for this very short test up and down the road I removed the air filter. I found that the pickup was better, I then removed the intake snorkel again and could see that the throttle response and overally 'revviness' of the engine was better. Don't worry I have put it all back together but I just wanted to pin down where some of the flow could be improved. Looking at the structure below the filter I can see there are a few struts to ensure that the airbox doesn't collapse but there doesn't seem to be that much space in the top of the airbox for the air to actually go. One thing I did notice is that when removing more and more of the intake, the improvements came from allowing the turbo to get the air it needs to then compress it into the engine. With the injectors at stock fueling, the additional air and boost level would push the ECU fueling map slightly higher - eg the engine can sense the boost and the mass of the air and basically move the fueling slightly higher to mix with the additional air. As with diesel tuning, more fuel means more power. I therefore believe that there could be improvements in the following areas: Better flowing bigger airbox - the turbo actually has air to compress Less restrictive backbox - the turbo spools up much quicker Adjust the actuator - ensure that the actuator is correctly adjusted to remove any slack over the years of use EGR blockoff - no hotter air being added and no possible boost leak through the valve if not 100% perfect I was quite impressed with the performance difference with running with no air filter - I will perhaps look into how you could mod this to allow for better flow post filter, perhaps adding in a spacer to allow for air to flow through the filter and then into the turbo inlet pipe.

I'd the aero wiper blades are cheap eBay ones, bin them. They'll ruin your windscreen. I did that on the old car I now use Bosch aero and nothing less

It really could just be a leak. Sometimes you can't easily see them, and the mention of the smell of hot diesel makes it sound more likely. Have you checked the seals to the injectors with the engine running, or just 'statically'? the rubber seals can also go a bit hard/perished, and they tend to leak a bit then. Also, the air to and from the intercooler could leak. Another possibility would be a partly blocked fuel filter, particularly if it hasn't been changed recently (how long, what fuel does it normally run on)?

Get the plastics painted gloss black Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

Need to have a good look through triplercomposites, they have front splitters , headlight brows , side skirts that we all fit and look nice if thats what your going for! Heres a pic of my old mk7.5 with the brows and front splitter on !

How come the before and after pictures have different lower front grilles ?. Quite like the one in the first picture before ...have you changed them

The broken connector is probably where its been dislodged from its storage location. If the car had a knee bag it will show in etis, likewise, it would illuminate the airbag light if it was there but unplugged.

Come on ...... there must be 2 more people!!!!!! No catches, no fees just good wholesome fun!