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I collected my 2015 Fiesta in February and overall I'm really pleased with it, a five door Titanium X 1.0 Ecoboost 125. It had less than two thousand miles on the clock having started life as a demonstrator in the Channel Islands. I'm fussy about my cars and it is absolutely excellent to drive. I would say it is my favourite car to drive to date, spending most of it's time on short trips around town. It feels tight as a drum with sharp steering yet a comfortable ride. Suspension control and damping is as good as any car I've driven, and it's very refined on the motorway so also good on long drives. The seats are very comfortable too. It was definitely worth going for the 125 engine, feeling much more free revving and unrestrained at high revs. No complaints then? Not quite. Grrr... it rattles! To put my experience into perspective, since 2001 all my cars have been new or nearly new. That's two VW Golfs, two BMW's and two MINI's, so this is my first Ford. Compared to my last car, a 2009 Golf GTI, the Fiesta is actually more rewarding to drive at everyday speeds. I think this is due to the more accurate steering. Driver feedback through the wheel is definitely better, feeling less inert than the Golf. The engine has a sporty rasp and it's just very well suited to everyday driving. The Golf was more of a grand tourer. Anyhoo, the Fiesta has been to the dealer FOUR TIMES to get an irritating rattle behind the steering wheel fixed. It's impossible to ignore and is worse when the car is cold. It seems to be coming from inside the steering wheel housing itself. There is also a sqeaky driver's seat. It's such a shame that such an excellent, affordable car is spoiled by A) Poor interior build/ materials and B) Dealers that can't fix the rattles. The engineering is superb especially at this price, but it's let down by the interior fittings. I hope the Mk8 fixes this. I wonder what others would recommend? I considered contacting Ford UK directly. PS - The two BMW's and two Golfs had ZERO rattles. The two MINI's rattled like hell and needed multiple trips back to the dealer. However to the dealer's credit, all the rattles were FIXED. Which is more than you can say for the Ford dealer...

The mk2 didn't have easyfuel so no funnel needed. Sent from my SM-G930F

its not an issue you should be worried about, basically the glow plug module was not made weather proof sufficiently and over time can get moisture inside. its a 5 min job to replace.

Ford introduced it in about 1998, so the Mk6 (5th generation, 2002 to 2008) Fiesta probably has it, and all later ones. The Alternator has a three pin plug on it, as well as the heavy main cable. Disconnecting that 3 pin plug can diagnose some faults. If the alternator is ok, it should default to a flat 13.8v output. (Only connect or disconnect with ignition off). I think reliability is down to luck more than make. I looked at insurance reliability tables before getting my current car in 2011, figures were all over the place. Some Fords came quite high up. Japanese makes were at the top, but also many Japanese cars were way down the list. I chose Ford because spares are often cheaper (older cars will always need some!), there is quite a lot of technical info about, and Ford sites like this one seem better than for many other makes. I have had lots of problems, but none (so far!) have cost a lot to fix.

Hello everyone! Now this was getting on my nerves for a while. I have NEVER had an issue with my Focus, except for the spark plugs. During rain, or when using the washer jets for a bit, water / washer fluid would leak into cylinder one and build up on the rocker cover, and leak and cause misfire on the plugs. Here is a fix (Although your car may have an identity crisis afterwards!) This is only suitable for the Non TI-VCT version of the 1.6 engine. It says it fits the 1.4 also, but I haven't personally confirmed this, and 1.4's seem to be quite rare so I can't check. Requirements: (I would highly recommend you combine this mod / fix with a change of spark plugs & ignition leads for best results) Volvo Part Number 30650468 Volvo Part Number 986019 x4 The best way to acquire these parts is ring Volvo. These parts are still in production and circulation for the 1.6 Volvo S40, V50 & C30. Your local Volvo garage can usually get these parts ready to pick up by 3pm same day, as long as you ring them before midday. Volvo will charge you £24.96, which doesn't seem that bad to me, but feel free to look for the above Volvo's at a scrapyard if that's your thing! Step 1: Pop your bonnet open and have a look at the below picture. The green circled holes are good to go, the red ones have things in them. The one on the left just holds that wire down, and the one on the right holds a different wire. Just take the wires out, and the holders unscrew. Don't force them out! I did that with one and had to pick at it with a small screwdriver to clear the hole. Step 2: Now we know what we're working with, you also need to remove your oil filler cap. If you're deciding to change the plugs and leads too, do this first then take the oil cap off. Now it's simple, tuck the two wires that you removed from holders in a convenient place, make sure your ignition leads are neatly tucked down, and then line the Volvo cover up. The screws are a six-point thread although I'm not entirely sure what size. Screw them all in, then I'd suggest using a ratchet to tighten them. Personally, I tightened them loads to try and keep it watertight. And you're done! This is the end result! I've had no issues since winter has kicked in so can confirm this definitely works, and it's a perfect, OEM level fit. Only issue is it says Volvo!! I would seriously recommend all 1.6 owners do this as it can help prevent repeated spark plug / ignition lead failure, misfires and even potential engine damage! Also please excuse my dirty engine bay.... I don't have an undertray since hitting a brick on the M1 lol...

Finally upgraded my car radio to an Eonon Android unit. Love it so far. Better sound quality than the previous Ford 6000 cd unit anyway. Would recommend.

My sig below is mine with Heko's. Got em off someone who went from a 5 door ST to and RS for free, he was very excited so just gave them away lol. I've never ever had an issue with visibility, I've never noticed any different. Also, the Heko's complement tinted windows very nicely, which you have.

I remember when trade plating we ran out of fuel in a little 1.0 ecoboost fiesta. Walked 3 mile round trip to get a jerry can of fuel and it put it all in, car wouldn't start. Found £5 of fuel on the floor had to make another trip, luckily the funnel was in with the spare wheel for us!

Scrub that, most likely won't fit. Aftermarket double din is probably best option tbh. Sent from my SM-G930F

Your Focus headunit is actually larger than double din. If you wanted to fit a double din into say a 2007 focus you need to get a double din reducing plate for it. So in short, sorry, no its not right and wont fit with that plate you have. This is the fascia plate to go in a Focus to show you what i mean.

I don't like the sheer volume of idiots that seemed to be in Tesco car park, this afternoon. Whilst I waited for Brandy to do her pre-shop pee behind "click and collect" by her favourite tree, apart from one girl in a red VW Polo; who did - no-one else appeared to be actually looking as they reversed out of their spaces. The worst of which was a BMW who reversed across two end to end spaces, to avoid having to go all the way round the one way system to get out. He couldn't have looked, as he didn't stop; he shot straight out into the side of a passing Transit Due to Brandy not liking being watched as she does her dog business, I saw the whole episode occur and gave the Transit owner my card, if his insurer would like a witness statement. My dentist is always running late Only when he first joined the practice were appointments actually at the booked time My root canal appointment last time was an hour and 10 minutes late

Car is fixed. It was the boost pressure soloniod bought off euro parts for £58 👍🏼

I do like being in the meat aisle in Tesco, just as the merchandiser bought out 6 crates of reduced butchery counter items Half price briskets, pork bellies with a third off, Angus steaks with £5 off galore; there wasn't much in the way of chickens though and only half a duck. Mind you Tesco chicken with discounts is still more than Brandy's chicken supplier, and it's the wrong ratio of flesh to bone on a Tesco chicken (without butchery intervention) for Brandy. So I got her the duck and filled two bags of cuts for me. I had to upgrade trolley sizes, to the deep family one as I already had an overflowing regular trolley of every cat food Tesco sell, when I got to the meat aisle Hopefully amongst them, there'll be at least one kind Molly will eat. Wrong one, I meant Mondeo Mark http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/profile/61943-mondeo-txs-22/

I know this might sound a bit daft, but check your heat shields around exhaust system. I had a similar problem with my 2.5 GhiaX, cost me loads in mechanic fees and all it was in the end was one of the nuts on heat shield had come loose and was making the vibration/rattling noise.

Just googled ford focus emergency fuel filler funnel. which looks like this... I have one at home...never knew what it was for

Do you mean easy fuel? You should have a filler funnel for emergency filling not from a pump.

For me - and I know you didn't ask for my opinion, if I were to have a go at fixing something on my car without any prior knowledge, I would not choose a safety critical component that puts the lives of you and others around you at risk, if you get it wrong. I dont think that the previous poster was being harsh by saying that, just suggesting that maybe this is a step too far unless you have someone there to show you what you need to know?

Still due at the dealership end of next week Wes. it's gunna by a busy week when it arrives.

Sorry for not replying for a while... I've got mine booked into Arnold Clark this coming Friday for its 37,500 mile service and the headlights to be looked at. I'd swapped cars with my friend on Monday night, the LED lights are far more superior than the standard (which is to be expected). He called me saying he was basically guessing where the edge of the road etc. was due to the poor light output. When we swapped cars back last night, we looked at how far up the street my lights went, shocked to say it was about the width of a standard 1 car drive way. The reflector part of the headlight doesn't seem to actually be reflecting. The light is bouncing off the projector lense, leaving a tiny beam on the road which is no use. It will be going in on Friday and I won't accept it back until the lights have been sorted as personally I think they are a hazard and make the car dangerous to drive. Fingers crossed they find the issue and sort it.

yeah sorry 75amp front 25rear front only stays on 5 minutes before it switches off remember some batteries charge at say 75-80amp per hour as said aircon is about 35amp add it all up you can drain a battery quickly

Hi All, I'm completely new to this forum so I hope I have set this up okay. I am about to buy a Ford Fiesta 62 plate diesel and happened to remember a friend of mine with the same model mentioning a recall because of some sort of fire risk so I checked on the Ford website using the cars reg and this car is being recalled and has not been in for the problem yet. My question is, I'm assuming that I won't have to pay to have this fixed if it is a recall? Is it still worth buying the car with this issue? I have very limited knowledge of cars, although I am getting a very good deal on this one so any advice regarding this issue would be greatly appreciated as I need to transfer the money over asap. Thanks

the gloss black grills will great

Climair's finally purchased and fitted just need to leave with windows fully up should not be a problem this time of year

Its alive, albeit with a very bad hair style! I love reading these build threads but also hate them as they make me want to tinker with mine. Our 8 month old baby put a stop to that! Have you got the ST now Willy or still waiting? Must be any day now if not already.

Could try doing a service, oil & filter change, definetly a fuel filter change and a air filter. With out much more info on a lumpy engine , it's hard to diagnose.

Glad to be helpful Recently, I found this guy on YouTube, who's been doing some nice comparisons of the bulbs which I'm considering, so you may want to check that out and maybe decide to switch to different set for your low beams: https://www.youtube.com/user/sorcerer21ro/videos I think I know what you mean with the cutoff, I once had a similar problem, with the stock bulbs on my mom's Fiesta, the top of the bulb with that little "cap" (I'm sorry, I have no idea how it's called ) - but it was half way off when I took the bulb out and after I blew on it a bit, it went completely off. So I just bought new bulbs and all was fine. I went with Nightbreakers for this one, because they are proven and after all a great set of bulbs.

No, you don't have to pay for any work required as part of a safety recall. http://www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/101033/recalls-should-i-worry Some of our fleet works vehicles are 62+ plate Fiesta 1.5L diesels and are all being recalled for the same issue.

For anyone wanting to replace pads and/or disks, here are a few tips. Not guaranteed to be comprehensive, or a complete guide, but it may cover some bits glossed over in youtube vids. Photograph the brakes before dismantling, as a reminder where the spring goes, etc. For rear brakes, you will need a wind-back tool. The caliper piston must be turned (clockwise on the Focus & most cars) while being pushed in. It requires moderate inward pressure, while being rotated. The tool has pins to locate in holes in the piston. I tried improvising a couple of years ago, and damaged a caliper seal, to teach me a lesson. When pushing back pistons, loosen the lid of the fluid reservoir, and be prepared to remove fluid, eg with a syringe. Alternatively, open the caliper bleed screw (if not seized!) a little. Have string or wire handy to tie up & support the calipers once removed. Clean off any anti-corrosion coating that may be on the braking surface of the new disks. Meths will do. Copperslip type grease is used very sparingly on the metal to metal contact points between pads & caliper. Silicone or rubber grease is used on the caliper sliding pins. A torque wrench (unless you have the experience to judge torque) is advised for the caliper bracket bolts & caliper pins. Work carefully, and double check at each assembly stage that all needed jobs are done. Clean any fingerprints or grease off the disk or pad braking surfaces with meths. Refer to your photos. I use a quiet little local road, with a steep gradient, to test brakes. They will feel spongier & less precise than the old ones for a while. But they should still be smooth, progressive & stop the car without excessive pedal travel. They should bed in within 20 - 50 miles of normal driving. The first time you do this job, If possible, get someone with some experience to look over the job before the wheels go back on.

Nooo! Not Christmas songs!

glad to hear it

Hi Welcome hows that

Hi Welcome

Get yourself a training partner Ken. It makes all the difference as you dont want to let each other down. Ive just got in from the gym with my mate but if i was training on my own theres no way i would have gone, been knackered all day!

Same problem I have but mine is just down to laziness. I lost 22kg this year and now fell out of it and have not been to the gym in like 8 weeks. Doing cardio and circuits but weights have gone to the dogs Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Yeah, well... Starts up no problem with new plugs though!

Update: eibach ordered for Christmas! Will be getting them fitted around the 27th December time! Can't wait to get them on!

Take it to a qualified mechanic.

I don't like being late for appointments etc I would rather be 10 minutes early than 1 minute late. So with that in mind I was between 5 and 10 minutes early for my dentist appointment this morning. Appointment was for 0845, so I assume it was the first of the day. From when I got in there until I was called at 0855!!!!! there was no-one went out of the door so NO previous appointments! No apology when I went in either. Thing is, if I was 10 minutes late I might have forfeited my appointment and possibly even be charged for it and be made to feel guilty for wasting an appointment that someone else could have used, so surely a wee apology wouldn't have been too much to ask................would it?

hello and welcome oJNAo

It was a tossup whether I was going to post this here or on the YPLAC thread If it wasn't so serious it would have been funny! http://www.scotlandsworstdrivers.com/police-investigate-after-car-abondoned-on-tram-tracks-1-10289/

You can ask for a full breakdown of what was and wasn't done when it was serviced that's a starting point. In any legal argument against them, they will play the oil card. What I mean by that is they will say it is your fault for not keeping a check on the oil and assuming it was fine. I am not saying they are in the right, just brace yourself for their attack. Also, in any legal argument you will need to prove the fault occurred as a result of some manufacturing defect as opposed to a fault of your own. This would mean appointing an expert mechanic so its useful if you know someone who knows someone etc. to save costs. If you are wondering what I mean by legal argument, in simple terms its your statutory rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 or if you purchased before October 2015, the Sale of Goods Act 1979. This is separate from the warranty and unaffected by any small print. What you would be doing is using the law to force the dealer to repair the car at their expense rather than yours. Clearly, there is a lesser expectation of quality with used cars than with new cars but its still only a 4 year old car. This all sounds daunting but the reality is that the small claims court is very informal and far removed from what you probably envisage. If you lose: You pay the costs you have racked up to get to court - The end If you win: They foot the bill for the repair and they pay your costs These things rarely get to court to be honest so its like a game of poker. If you want to read a real world example of this, please settle in with a nice drink and read this topic: Thanks

Is there any evidence of water dripping onto the belt? This happened in my wifes Fiat Grande Punto and it turned out there was a Fiat fix for it. The drain pipe on the bulk head from the scuttle panel was causing water to drip onto the belt and squeal for a bit until it span the water out. They revised the pipe with an angled version to divert the water away solving the problem.

you can buy a belt dressing spray but to be honest i would have the belt replaced as that sounds like the problem your having dont spray any lubricant like wd40 on it as you will make things worse. start by replacing the belt if that dont work then the tensioner or do both at the same time

Well im now a focus owner. Bought a 1.6 57 plate style. What a smooth car to drive

I'd be keen to know the black vent part numbers too. I bought black gel stickers from DMB but they seem a bit small.

If you believe 'howmanyleft' there are just 427 GTI's still registered and taxed and another 596 SORN (1,021 total). This is down from 1,300 in 2014 when I bought mine and 7,000 five years ago. No wonder there are so many sets of GTI wheels on ebay. At this rate there might be only 200-300 left five years from now and at that point values should be soaring. So if you have the space to store cars in the dry and away from any risk of theft or damage it's probably a safe investment.