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Been a member for about an hour so fort id share few photos of my car Some before and after and some randoms haha

Check the forums, I think there was a free update to f4 due to problems with f3. My Focus came with f2 so couldn't get a free upgrade, bought f5 card off e bay for £20. I think the annual update is due so maybe a new f6 due soon.

In my opinion a 50 mm throttle body is a huge improvement. It makes the engine much more responsive. Below some pictures I took when I modified the stock 45 mm throttle body to 50 mm. I started with a donor throttle body I bought onine from a scrap yard. After the throttle body was completely disassembled I cleaned all parts and ordered the 50 mm Weber throttle plate from an online seller. I also measured the exact size of both the throttle body bore and the throttle plate to determine the correct end play of the throttle plate. The stock 45 mm throttle plate has an end play of 0.05 mm. After the 50 mm throttle plate arrived I compared it with the stock 45 mm throttle plate. The weber throttle plate has exactly the same bolt pattern as the stock throttle plate. Next I enlarged the slot in the axle to make the larger throttle plate fit. Only bit of material needs to be removed to make the plate fit. I used a very smal file to do this. I also chenged the bearing of the throttle body. These bearings are pretty cheap and can easily be changed. Next I machined the throttle body to the correct size on a lathe. I used exactly the same end play (0.05 mm) as the original throttle plate. Afterwards I polished the bore and sandblasted the rest of the throttle body to obtain a perfect finish. Finally I assembled the throttle body using all modified parts. I replaced the original alluminium blanking plate with a plastic blanking plate. The original blanking plate will be damaged during disassembly and can not be reused. The throttle axle has a spring loaded stop screw which prevents the throttle plate for becoming stuck inside the bore when it is fully closed. In some cases it may be necessary to readjust this screw. My experience is that the measurements between the red dots need to be exactly 10 mm. Except from the machining of the throttle body I did al modifications myself. The machining of the throttle body is performed by my father who is a lathe operator. This way the complete modified throttle body costed me less than €65,-.

I believe the handle; greatly improves the striking accuracy of the axe itself.

I do like watching The Last Leg on Ch4 on a Friday. I absolutely detest the bell end that is Russell Brand

That said, I had my heavily coked up 1.8 TDCI (110K miles at the time) Terracleaned and it's been fantastic over the last 18 months, doesn't use any oil and no smoking.

Hope you like.

Bit of a silly question. I've been trying to find the source of some horrid noises mostly when going over speed bumps or parking. Spotted a cracked bit when peeking through one of my rear wheels and am wondering what the right name for it is?

As yours is an Mk1/Mk1.5, it is the Zetec (Zetec-SE) Code Years Displacement (bore x stroke)/Type Power@rpm torque@rpm Compression (:1) 1.6 Zetec-S/SE 1998- 1,596 cc (1.596 L; 97.4 cu in) (79 mm (3.1 in)x81.4 mm (3.20 in)) I4 100 PS (74 kW; 99 hp)@6000 145 N·m (107 lb·ft)@4000 11

Triple R splitter. Google it and it's comes with everything you need. I put it in my zetec s .I'm trying to upload the pictures of my car but it won't allow me. (I'm not too good in modern technology )

Okay update. I've managed to get time to do the soldering myself. I re soldered all the pins just to be sure. I've noticed the car can be unlocked from miles away now and it feels quicker during acceleration as well as reduction in hesitation at the 1750 rpm mark. Would these pins affect this or am I just under the placebo effect? I've ran into a slight problem though. I think my calibration is slightly off for the temperature and fuel needle as they seem to be a bit stickly. I might have pushed them on to much. I was wondering if there was a sweep test for the mk2 focus or some way of making the calibration a bit easier. Mines doesnt have the fancy computer though showing the mpg ect. I also meant to say before it fixed this I had another error code U0155 and when i flicked the IC when the car tried to act up it would return to normal which was interesting to say the least.

I installed the K&N drop-in panel filter in my Titanium X - 125 about 9 months ago. I've found that it's actually increased MPG. I like the fact that I don't have to spend ~£15 on a new filter when it gets serviced thus saving money.

I went to a well known car supermarket and for the money it was the best car by a country mile - it just didn't have parking sensors. I'm ok without them, but just thought I'd explore getting them fitted.

Haha don't worry about it. I get what you mean about 'ugly car' After all, a yellow Corsa is a niche choice. Good for him having such a vibrant colour at his age though, most elderly people drive grey Jazz's. Glad it hasn't put him off getting another one.

Got it done thanks, needed to be more forceful.

undo the screws under the cowell then lift it of .be careful when installing the light .i broke the frst one i did got a new one .my cowell doesnt sit properly for some reason. i think they are torx screws

Yes I don't see why they can't be but personally I think that would be a bad move.

Still doesn't excuse vandalising a pensioners car though. Poor guy, why shouldn't he have a colour he likes? Good on him for saying he'll get a green one if that one is written off!

I've got three kids aged from two to ten and lowerd mine on the eibach pro springs and its not hard of a drive atall and makes handling even better. will need to get the tracking alignment done after lowering though. Costs around 40 quid at your local tyre fitting place. also here's some guides you may find of interest

bump stop

I meant the cracked bit just above the spring

fair point but some german cars cost more without

screw fixings stick out a mile , look ugly and spoil the clean lines. not to mention drilling holes eventually lets water get inbetween the backing plate and vinyl lettering sheet why spend 30 notes on a plate just to put cheap yellow plastic caps on top ?

Thanks dont no what else to do was thinkin about lowering it but dont want it to be a hard ride as i have a daughter

Hat day (as they say in Belfast during the summer)😅

Looks good mate, The red piping on the wind deflectors is a nice touch👍

Decent bulbs all round, inside and out. Nightbreaker lasers at the front with 6000k side light bulbs. CREE 80w bulbs in the reverse lamp and change the orange indicator bulbs for silver ones. Use LED bulbs in the interior, bright white ones as it really makes the car a nice place to be. An induction kit or just a cone is an easy mod. If you are into being showy you can change leads and hoses for coloured ones to match the car or to contrast with it. Wind deflectors can really set a car off nicely, as can mud flaps. If you can, see if you can get some custom made rally type ones they look the b0ll0cks. Nice window tints from the B pillar back, about a 70% tint would look good. Invest in a dashcam too, not really a mod but in the event of a non fault crash pays for itself a thousand times over. You can also take off bits of trim and fascia to wrap. If you want to add a bit of colour you can use a coloured wrap or a gloss wrap, you can also get a carbon effect wrap. Pretty easy to do at home if you have patience. Not sure what the pedals and footrest are like in the zetec s but you can change them for alloy effect. The list goes on but don't forget the dodge stripe up and over the centre of the cat, that alone adds 12bhp [emoji87] On a more serious note don't forget to declare any mods to your insurance company. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As far as I know the zetec is the base trim on the Mondeo, if I'm wrong please correct me. I have a 2016 zetec however mine has the park assist so has the sensors front and back Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a 2016 mk5 1.5 ecoboost and it does not have a warning either from what I have seen, I have never run out of fluid though so can't be 100% sure. I top up each weekend when I do my quick check over the car. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

He will eventually OD

Hello I am wanting to remove the rear bumper from my 2012 foucs zetec s, does any one have any help or guides? Many Thanks Drew

try here

I recently decided time has come for a change. I really like the 17 Inch 8-spoke Y-design wheels but after 6 years I wanted something completely different. The last few weeks I searched for a nice set of wheels. My major requirements were that the wheels had to be brand new or in mint (like new) condition without any damage. Unfortunately I could not find any original Ford wheels that I liked. Eventually I decided to take a closer look at decent aftermarket wheels. After a long search I found a set of aftermarket wheels that I really liked: These are Anzio Turn wheels. These are available in different sizes for several car brands/models. I finally decided to order these wheels in the following size: Brand/model = Anzio Turn Bolt Pattern = 5 x 108 Size = 8J x 18 Offset = 48 mm Color = Polar Silver The Anzio brand is part of the German UniWheels group. The UniWheels group consists of different wheel brands like ATS, ALUtec, RIAL and Anzio. Next to these aftermarket brands UniWheels also produces OEM wheels for many car manufacturers These wheels have a UV resistant protective coating. Because of this the wheels should be very dureable. Anzio even has a 5 Year warranty on all fully painted wheels. Today I received and unpacked the wheels: I am actually quite impressed by the quality of these wheels. They do even have less imperfections than the original Ford wheels I owned so far.The protective coating gives the wheels a nice high gloss finish. Unfortunately the online shop I bought the wheels from sended them with a set of M14 x 1.5 wheel bolts. I ordered the wheels specifically for the Focus MK3 so they should have sent them with a set of M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts. Next to this 2 of the hub caps are missing. Each wheel came in a seperate box which has a cutout to expose the color of the wheel. I suspect that this cutout allowed the hubcaps to fall out during transport. I have not decided yet which tyres I am going to use. Based on specifications, test results and reviews the Vredestein Ultrac Satin tyre drew my attention but the lack of a decent rim protector is a large disadvantage for me. Currently I am leaning towards the Continental SportContact 5 tyres. Fortunately I still have a few Months to decide.

Knew I could rely on you Lenny ;) It was your guide that put me onto the idea in the first place, seeing as I've noticed a lot of misting when dismantling the air intake. Yeah they're out of stock, I contacted the shop and they're gonna be another 2 weeks until they're available again. But that's 2 weeks closer to payday!!

Sharp axe with a handle works wonders!

Nice one mate, cheap easy fix is how we like it

Is it just me, or is it nigh on impossible to find a MK1 Focus with fully working remote central locking? Our LX's remote initially worked if you pressed whatever button you needed about 10-15 times and then slowly stopped working altogether, the Zetec's never worked at all and the new Ghia's works to unlock the car if you press the button around 5 times but the lock and boot release are completely useless. I have taken the remotes apart and replaced the batteries and even went as far as to take the circuit board out of the Zetec's remote (as I had nothing to lose since it wasn't working anyway) and it was clean and had no breaks that would explain it not functioning. In that case it could be that it isn't paired with the vehicle as none of the buttons work, but the Ghia has to be paired because it unlocks, so why don't the lock and boot release work? It's starting to irritate me now, more so because I don't know if I'm just unlucky or if Ford made the most unreliable central locking system in history for the MK1s...

MAF sensor has been cleaned and the car seems normal now, much better at setting off. Thanks everyone

If you look at your lights switch, the last position should be a light bulb with an A inside it. If you don't have it that means that you car doesn't have auto lights. What trim level do you have? Play with the menus on the infotainment screen too maybe it is there the coming home function. Those settings that i told you earlier were from a Titanium. If not....bad luck.

Good Morning all I`m pleased to say the car is back running, the problem was a wiring loom that ran up towards the bulkhead under the carpet and trim to a connector that had disconnected slightly whilst the new bonnet cable was being fed through.The mechanic noticed a slight gap in the connection , pressed it together there was a definite click and hey presto the car started. Thanks again for all your help

take plug off the mass air flow sensor (MAF sensor). this is usually somewhere around the air intake. if faulty it can give false reading and make car run bad. I understand that if you unplug them on some cars (don't remove the sensor, just unplug it) then the ecu uses kind of average reading pre-programmed into it which is better then it being fed totally wrong readings from a faulty sensor. I am not saying i think it is definitely that, I am just explaining what ajzetecs suggested

Hi and welcome. I don't know if you realise but you've landed on the Focus forum. Some here may be familiar with the mk4 Mondeo but you'll reach a wider pool of expertise either in the Mondeo forum here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/forum/13-ford-mondeo-vignale-club/ or this more active Mondeo forum on a different site: http://www.talkford.com/community/forum/96-ford-mondeo-mk4-2007-2013/ Sorry I can't be more help but hopefully you'll find it on one of the above links. Good luck Edit: As I'm sure you'll be advised, ultimately it's the mechanic's responsibility. The car worked before, it doesn't now. He broke it, he fixes it

While you've got them out check the inner face of the discs. Corrosion can migrate outwards from the centre. This seems to be more prevalent on the inside face for some reason and reduces the effective area in which case they should be replaced.

based on all pictures. what we cant see is the inner face of disc but if its simular to the outer face then there ok for now. i will give you the specs . new brake disc thickness 25mm. worn minimum thickness 23mm pads minimum thickness 1.5mm. but i personally wouldnt go that low.

look ok to me also. my pads are far thinner than that. lol

Sounds like it's just rust scraping off it's normal until it does it all the time. As for the lip

View from the top can give the illusion they're thinner due to the way light bounces but they could be wearing uneven best way to check would be take them off and measure up or try measure up with them still on, as for when your brakes will need renewing I always say when they start to feel rubbish, after all they're the only thing stopping you.

When you eject old card' insert new card then press and hold together nav and menu button and it will say delete old software. Confirm ' then new software will install automatically from new sd card. Can take up to half hour.

I printed off the PDF leaflet showed it to them and they matched it as an over the counter sale. Got it fitted this evening, updated the ice software while it was at it and now has extras like speed signs, driving style, etc and a new play/pause button for USB.