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If it was the cosmetic aspect of having drum brakes that is the driver here (which is a fair enough reason) then you might want to consider just painting the drums black. This pretty much hides them and so whilst you won't have a disc and caliper visible it becomes less obvious that you have drum brakes, if you see what I mean. I painted my wife's drums, more because I didn't like seeing the surface corrosion, and afterwards it struck me how much better the whole wheel ended up looking.

I do like a cold beer in the garden now I'm home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

its hammer time. lol

Get a stretch fit boot and a fitting cone, simple. But yes, there is a circlip and giving it a few sharp whacks will knock the joint off.

The engine braking aspect sounds like it could be a big clue. In such a situation the engine will be pushed towards the front of the car and the engine mounts limit by how much this occurs. If a mount is loose/worn it may allow the engine (and gearbox attached to it) to shift too far forwards and, in doing so, be pulling in the opposite direction of the downwards action for second gear (as gearsticks pivot above the cables, pulling the stick pushes the select lever forwards). This could lead to it being pulled out of gear. It could be a variety of others causes too, but I would start by getting the mounts checked and a general feel for how far the engine can be rocked forwards.

It arrived today & it's now fitted. It was straightforward. I screwed the thread onto the badge, slid on the bracket & a spring washer & then the nut, pushed it through the grille, positioned the bracket correctly & then spun the badge until tight. Really pleased with it..........

I didn't realise electrical tape could actually end up being bad for wiring! Thanks to all you guys that helped and to you Stoney for leading me to the right conclusion. Well hopefully at the moment anyway.

This is my 1.8 petrol, cat back with 1 box.

Most likely the tape has got hot and the glue has run causing the wires to become coated and insulated. Proper crimps or soldering plus some heat shrink on individual wires is the proper way to do it.

Bought an 03 streetka 3 months ago...as a summer toy....had the usual split rear window now sorted £59... Glovebox repaired£15.... Just had new tyres and all alloys refurbed in black...looks amazing....drives great and im getting in 40's on a run, luv it...

Hi all, Does anyone know where to find the engine code, particularly on a 1.6 TDCI 2010? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not enough room to get a 14 pounder in though, not without collateral damage

Sounds like a ten-foot job to me pal 😂

The external air vent is closed up whenever the car is locked (and opened on unlock once inside). It sounds like other servos may be cycled/reset in a similar fashion. That aside though, this isn't the sound I am hearing when I open the driver's door - I must post a video to illustrate better.

just refueled and think my miles to empty is a bit optermistic even for a 1.0 ecoboost focus!! and real is mpg is only 62mpg , not 65mpg. lol

its beer o clock for me as well now, better late than never , sun gone now but still warm in garden.

Sorry to hear Stoney, I'm sure you'll forever remember the moments you shared with Jake, RIP.

Looking good mate! I put one on mine.

The dealer The dealer is talking total rubbish, my car is a 2016MY and auto relocks

My thoughts are with you Stoney. Time for a little extra fuss for Willow and Jedi.

Took the beut to a local ford not been there before, had to mave off as its 1 car width and a jag came down the road,

Different cars entirely. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I already asked in the Russian forum, they gave me a few AS-BUILT for APIM which I will test later on. If the problem persists, I will put a GPSM module. I found one at a good price. I will write again what happened. Тhanks for the help.

Ahh thanks for that! Easy to spot or do parts need to be removed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found mine on the end of the cylinder block drive side end it was some thing like qqdb

although I suspect it won't affect what you intend to do servicing wise, you have not said whether the low mileage is many short journeys (where it won't get up to normal operating temperature) or a few long journeys (where it will). Nor where the car will be kept, in a decent dry garage without excessive condensation or elsewhere. These things affect to what degree the points in the above messages apply.

No I didn't replace the clutch & DMF as this was done by previous owner but he produced receipts & I also checked with the garage that did the work and they confirmed it was all replaced & with genuine Ford parts at the request of the previous owner (Who eats breaths & talks Fords) I going to replace the clutch master cylinder here next week and re-bleed system to see if this cures the problem - At the minute the clutch works fine for a day or two then it is hard to select all gears the next day and basically works good when it feels like it - Have noticed on slightly cooler days it does mess about Will keep you posted with the new master cylinder change - Thanks for replying

yes wrap would work but as above /\ why not get it tinted, for one it would look better than a wrap and you'll still get some light through but not enough to disturb you.

Of course there is way...and you do not have to send it anywhere and just simply activate it by your self. Will PM you with the instructions.

Go for the Team Heko one's... (paid nothing for mine!)

All that makes sense Gerald........I've only just moved to my new home, so haven't found an actual Ford approved garage nearby......There is a Ford dealership that has service facilities, but the reviews I've read about them are far from flattering....I always took my last car to a family run business, whom I trust to not rip me off & they always did a good job... Would it affect anything value wise if I took it to them to be checked over & serviced, or Is it necessary to take it a Ford approved garage to get the Ford stamp in the service book (at least for maybe this one service to make sure all is in order) ? Chris.

I believe the ST have disks on the back. Should therefore be a straight swap as I doubt they would change anything else, however I have seen people change the whole rear axle on some smaller cars. Basically if the hubs are the same fitment the. It should bolt on. Best bet would be to find stuff from a breakers rather than buying new. Going new will run you at least £500. Looks like calipers are £40-50 a pop on ebay, plus you've got the hubs, disks and pads. Don't have time to look around for exact pricing, sorry. It's not that hard to do a quick search on ebay. Plus I'm sure people will have done it before. It's basically an expensive cosmetric upgrade that nobody will notice unless you point it out. It doesn't have any performance benefit as something like 70% of the braking power goes to the front wheels. Also have to remember your handbrake might not be as effective on disks. If it's just hub replacement, should be an easy enough job. I mean you have to know what you're doing, if you've ever done something like a wheel bearing, you can do this, but that's kind of obvious. Garages will charge more than you'll want to pay for this sort of work.

I'm in the same boat. Have just purchased a 2016 Kuga with sync 2 but no sat nav. I'm a bit apprehensive about sending my unit to America to have sat nav added - does anyone know if there is anyway to have it added in the UK? From reading earlier posts it sounds like Ford don't offer this service? Thanks!

Try Maplins for the paint they d stock it at one time

Code saver. Easy, simple, less than a tenner.

😐 it's Lenny

I always do it with a syringe. fill the canister as much as you can and just keep squirting it in until it will literally take no more, take some time but does work.

I would recommend the Team heko ones they look much nicer

Actually it's gmail.com sorry about that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

Strongly agree , like fitting rear disc brakes on say 1.6 , even cars like hyundai i10 have discs so cant see why ford dont. Apart from saving £££££s Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1XrHeiBXZ6IRWFKc2c4d3JyRXc best i can do at moment mate on my phone hope it gives youan idea mine cat back no boxes

It's a good point but there's always something we could do better than Ford Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

The car is an RS !! Does it need any mods ? It looks awesome as it is. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Another small addition done today Before And after applying gel badges all round These look so much better now.

I think I've seen this shape st with gun metal alloys and to be fair it does look nice. But as there is no kurbing to them YET! I will leave them as they are. And perhaps get them done when they need a refurb. Next on the list is MOT then going to be a rear axle kit and refurb that. But that can wait until the weather is better and after the mot

Got a delivery in today post time to get rid of the standard air filter Before After There's a little more induction noise now but nothing too loud

Car looks incredible! Love what you have done with it! Just purchased a 16 plate Zetec S 140 in deep impact blue, what would your reccomendations be on cosmetic improvements?

😂😂😂😂 I do lol powers there use it sure whoevers doing it should advise you also mate.

Resetting the PCM clears all the learned values for a number of sensors, it is no wonder the car was running badly to start with. it would have taken a little while for the car to adapt the values, but a PCM reset is not something that should be done Willy nilly as far as know. It is also advisaeable to back up any modules configuration before doing anything so you can restore it to it's previous settings should anything go wrong.

3 years is far too long between oil changes. Even if you're not doing the mileage you should change the oil and filter at least once a year.