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It's not too difficult just need to load the software and turn on using an elm cable. Have you read towards the end of that thread? If you message @Bannko he can send you the full instructions on this.

ST seats will be the same bolt pattern however the same can't be said about the wiring harness for the seatbelt checker and the airbags. Not sure how supported the diesels are in terms of remapping and supporting mods. Wait a minute. Are those scissor doors?!?!?

that recall only came out today!

Tightening the handbrake adjuster without first inspecting the drums is a bad move.

So I need a can of paint made up for a part I bought. I've looked at the paint code on my car and it says K9 however on every site I search that up K9 is some blue colour. As you can see my car is red. Also I don't know what kind of paint to get or where to even get a can made.

ZetecS is just a zetec with a body kit and lower springs, You could do better than ZetecS by fitting eibach lowering springs. Ford can supply them for your focus there's different springs for petrol models and diesel models They fit the existing shocks by design and improve handling aswell as apperance. Just make sure you have the laser tracking alignment done around two weeks after lowering to correct the wheel surface contact with the road.

Thanks

Already PM'd Ian...and thank you Mike for mentioning me :)

Hi all, Sorry if this is an absolute newbie spectacle of a question.... Is it possible to fit the green cotton filter to a focus 1.6 zetec s petrol?? Or is it a different set up etc? I am a newbie so i apologize if this is a silly question lol. Thanks in advance!

dont know. you need to do another check on etis.

nope, sorry. ;)

So not only a bad driver but a selfish person who doesn't think about anybody but himself. Shame they didn't lock him up.

Ok thank you. Guess I better keep an eye out for this then.

Evening all. After years of driving people carriers I've finally gone back to 5 seater cars and gone and got my self a ford focus saloon 2.0 tdci 2006 in black. Very nice 😁. Few problems but nothing major I hope . So hello

Well, Ive been busy painting the front bumper today, Ive also fitted the Fiesta ST front splitter which has transformed the front end 😍😍 Photos up tomorrow 🤗🤗

She was pregnant. I didnt realise this at the scene as she walked off to the side. I kept asking the guy if she was ok and he just said yes she's fine. I don't know why he wouldn't tell me this as I could have passed the information onto the emergency services whilst on the phone to them. Luckily an ambulance was sent anyway.

I have attached a relay to the bottom of the socket next to the handbrake, and run a wire to an ignition switched fuse-tap. Unfortunately the advice about finding other fuse locations does not seem to be accurate for the Mk 2.5 at least.

Your not alone on that one The Ford Sat Nav does take you on a bizarre route. Once i was up in Yorkshire (Pickering) and wanted to get to Whitby. Ford took us over the moors (lovely scenery btw) but not terribly appropriate for motor cars (No phone signal eeek). Navigation on phone/Google on our return took us via the A Roads B roads etc There has been other instances where it tried to take us down lanes etc and i've ignored it sticking to the A Roads. I am much more wary of this Sat Nav than other systems in cars & Portables However you do get to your destination and the issues above would not stop me from spec Sat Nav again

loving the pic

Looks a great first car! Keep it. my first car was a Morris Marina coupe 😄

Hey Simon. Welcome to the place to be. I am sure someone will be along shortly with some advice, unfortunately I am still new and learning myself. Just a thought can you not disconnect / reconnect the ECU yourself? to see if this rectifies matters, I wonder if it could be a faulty ECU? As I am finding out it's a process of elimination with all these problems and it's great you have a new alternator and fuel filter, that's 2 things you know wont give you any bother for a while. Good luck mate

Hi Bannko, Got to say, very generous, the amount of help you are giving out here. If you are prepared to share a PP address, I'll send you a metaphorical pint ;) However, there is a cost :) I've jut bought the Mrs a 2016 Focus Titanium, which I thought (assumed to be honest...) would have satnav, but doesn't. It does have the touchscreen, and the compass etc, so I'm expecting it's relatively simple to add the satnav feature? I've looked through the thread, and whilst I see gatherings of info, if there is a 'one stop shop' for guide and required hardware, I'd appreciate it. I'm pretty competent, so should be able to work it out, but as I say, hardware and software links would be appreciated :) Thanks again for the assistance. Sorry to be another first time poster leecher ;) It's your own fault for being so helpful :D

Push fit, Just thump it back on to the lip.

Hi Mat, MK1 paints are someone we use locally Wednesbury (West Midlands) they're very good! give them a call might ask for more details off your VIN plate and maybe reg to identify correct code. Link to their site below http://www.mk1paints.co.k/contact.html Rob

Bit much for an updated card! Think I'll wait, sure some will come up cheaper on eBay eventually

Thanks yes will just leave it alone I think. Love the car great fun too drive.

Very common fault as u say.....mine works like yours, stays coldish on cold and goes warm /hot with slightlest touch lol ...and thats had everything changed at dealer..bill was £400+ lol.....i tend to just leave mine alone now...as for lots of niggles, yeah they seem to get issues...but ive had mine 3 months and been faultless so far. Touch wood

not yet. i only saw it this morning but ill probably go over there at the weekend. then its a case of getting the money!

it's a toss up between that red one I just found and the red edition i posted earlier on. i think i can afford both, but i would obviously have to borrow more for the red edition and its a 5 year loan so I have to make sure I have the car for 5 years... and it doesnt break :D

All sorted just needed a bit of brute force and ignorance

Yeah im going bud, im from kingswinford if you want to meet up before we go ? On a serious note im looking to buy a ticket with you guys but the stand name isnt coming up ? whether im being a plank thats a different story lol

nice car mate they look like 17's on that one, if you like black why not get them professionally sprayed black, why not up your budget and get that RS just above the roof

I'm currently in the process of putting a mk2 illuminated 6 speed knob on my mk3. I snagged one for £30 and wanted to see if it could be done as they look nearly identical. Eventually I'll put up all the details and pics in my build thread.

I thought Id just add this, I think its a great pic, taken by a chap I know whilst I was on a job at a clients house.

Press traction control button once. Press and hold to go into nutter mode. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Having put the washing machine on earlier with 3 weeks worth of socks and boxers and 2 towels. I don't like the sound that came from downstairs quarter of the way into the spin cycle! It sounded like my laundry had been suddenly joined by a couple of loose brake calipers, several pistons, a camshaft and a pair of house bricks! The drum bearings have actually collapsed mid-wash, and it was spinning in a random elliptical orbit rather than centrally on the shaft! There are tiny glittering bits of bearing race and shell scattered amongst the washing! Now, whilst I knew the bearings were getting towards the end of their working life, they were last changed in 2009. They usually need replacing every 6-7 years. Just recently, I could feel a certain lumpy roughness as I manually rotated the drum, whilst searching for that elusive sock that always places itself tightly tightly against the drum wall. Washing machine bearing replacement was on July's "Things To do" list, it has now been bumped up to ASAP I'm now washing machine less until the new bearing kit is delivered In theory, I might receive the new bearing kit and tub seals tomorrow but I've also ordered a new spider. It makes sense to replace the spider at the same time, added to which it doesn't matter if the shaft gets damaged when removing the bearings.. The supplier is likely to put everything in the spider box and send it by DHL rather post the small items by RM and the spider by courier

Embarrassingly, I have discovered the cause of the fault - a particular pair of shoes I own have a thick and wide sole which catches on the accelerator peddle when my foot is on the brake! Cheap repair though :-)

I do like one of the advantages of having twins.... ......2 birthday cakes!!!

Right, what a palava! As a quick fix I tried to separate the socklet as per the diagram from Stoney871. No luck. Not sure if I'm supposed to push, wiggle in, or wiggle out, or what, but I can't get the socket apart. So, I then tried to fit a new cable from the back of the head unit down to the air vents: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361900286281?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT That doesnt fit the back of my head unit! I have attached photos of standard cable that goes into my head unit, the socket on my head unit, and the plug on the cable that doesnt fit. *****. I have now ordered a different cable ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181442971799?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The plug on that looks a bit smaller. so I guess there are two different versions of the 6000CD head unit!

well managed to get my st/zs spoiler fitted and I did put silicon on the bolt holes so hopefully it should all be water tight as the silicon even came out of the bolt holes as I attached the spoiler. have also got a Maxton design rear extension to go on but that will be a job for another day as I want to make sure the spoiler is all water tight before I mess about any more lol. here are the before and after pics. I also added a bit of fly eye to the spoiler brake light to make it looked smoked just need to do the rear lights at some point now. very happy with how the rear end looks now. Before old spolier new st/zs spolier

Having to sing a nursery rhyme in front of a group of Rainbows and there Dads as my 7 year old conveniently forget the words to every single one.

Sounds like the gearbox (or bearing within) is on its way out. Had a whine from the engine bay area at cruising speed too. The gearbox was slowly disintegrating. Had flecks of metal in the oil as well. Don't forget that the gearbox is in the engine bay which is why it sounds like an engine problem.

Here is screenshot of his website Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Very nice mate. Sits really nice!

The cable has finally arrived from Outer Mongolia :) When I disconnect the old cable (that runs to the glove box) will that just pull out or is it likely to be zip tied behind the dashboard? Do I need to remove the demister switch panel to run the cable down there? What's the recommended way of getting the cable out through the demister switch area? Find a gap? Drill a hole? Remove a blanking plate? Thanks folks.

Chances are they'd laugh in your face if you even suggested it. Either leave the warranty, or leave the modifications Or if you've paid for the warranty, modify accepting the fact that it's now void Who is the warranty with?

There are 2 small rectangular slots inside the rear of the unit that you need to put small screwdrivers into. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

de-badge is the first thing I do on any car now, looks loads better imo

We had alot of heavy rain here last night and this morning so I removed the grommet under the car and the cavity and insulation are bone dry, result! The damp smell has gone too as the insulation was holding water causing an old damp dishcloth smell, not nice in a 12 plate car!

Right, here we go again! Went out this morning and the boot was dry but when i pulled the grommet out underneath the car it was full of water again!!! This called for some more investigation so off came the back bumper. Turns out the vents fitted behind the bumper were a poor fit so they were not sealed properly. You could see where water had tracked down from the roof past the lights etc and then onto the top edge of the vent. Once the vent was removed it was obvious that was where the water was getting into the cavity as it was full of dirty rain water residue between the clips highlighting that the seal had failed. I cleaned all the surrounding area and dried the cavity and insulation out with a hair drier, this took some time as the insulation was saturated. You can see through the body cut out in the pic above where the underside grommet is removed to let the water out. This was replaced when everything was reassembled. Once that was all clean and dry I siliconed around the open edge of the body and also the back of the vents for good measure before clipping it back into place and smoothing the silicone around the edges. I did this to both side vents and both rear vents to be on the safe side. Basically what was happening was the water was tracking down behind the light cluster and getting into the body of the car via the poor seal on the vent. This caused the cavity to fill with water and then when driving the car and going around corners the water was spilling over into the boot floor area through a hole about 20mm up from the bottom of the cavity. I hope this helps somebody as I couldnt find any information regarding boot leaks on mk3's anywhere and Ford were useless as seals are only guaranteed for 12 months! I will remove the grommet again next weekend to make sure it is finally 100% sorted but all the signs were there to suggest it is. Im just hoping there is no secondary leak point!