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I was going to post an answer but unfortunately the marketing department has got there first, lol In fairness the answer above is better than any explanation I could give, truly got the game down to a T. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi all, I'm pretty new to this so any heads up? I have a wonderful original gold MK2 escort ghia automatic which I recently got to cherish and after some research on howmanyleft it says only 27 if the exact variation are left, could this be true and my dad has a pinto mk3 Capri,

is that a for sale sign behind it for the corsa £6 seems reasonable to me.

Last time i write on this forum i was selling my Ford Fiesta Titanium 60 plate and went for a Honda Civic. Circumstances changed and i sold it and moved to the United States. I have just recently picked up a Ford C-Max Full Electric Hybrid. This is an engine that needs to be in the uk, god is it good for city driving. I've been 600miles so far and haven't filled the tank once since i purchased it on Friday.

It seems to be a game using pre-printed cards, with few if any firm rules, a little along the lines of "Mock the Week". Question cards are answered using reply cards, with the "winner" being arbitrarily and usually very biassed-ly declared by the asker or by consensus, based on the rudest, most ridiculous, least PC, or most humorous answer. Especially when combined with some alcohol, it will be very good at revealing hidden personality traits in your (Ex? !) friends, and maybe making new friends. A deceptively simple idea, I think I can see why it has become so popular! The clever bit is the reply cards, so all players have a chance of making a good answer, not just the rapier quick witted ones.

Just had the car back from my local Evans Halshaw (where I bought it from, 2 months and 2k miles ago). I had sent it in to have the trip computer corrected, as it was always showing 99.9mpg on the avg setting which was not really helpful. Also, one half of the rain sensor cover was missing and the front and rear ford badges were damaged (the rear one had that white crazing appearing) and needed replacing. At no time had there been any mention of price, cost or quote, they simply took the keys and told me they'd ring when done. A couple of hours later, Paul rings to say its done and I toddle down after putting my arguing hat on, ready to contest the surely outrageous bill they want to land me with. When I arrive, my keys are returned to me with an explanation of what has been done, basically a cluster software update. Also told that sensor cover and two badges are on order, should arrive tomorrow and their guys will happily fit inside of 20 minutes. I asked if they would supply the parts for me to fit myself (as I wanted to seal up the badges properly so they didn't delaminate again) and I was told that was no problem, but otherwise their guys would be happy to fit - and that crazed badges were down to a bad batch and should be fine now. Again, at no point has any mention of cost been raised. I take my keys and walk out to find my car freshly valeted inside and out and waiting for me. I would expect the cluster and the rain sensor to be done for nothing as they were like that when I bought the car. The badges were also damaged but Ford stopped their "replace on 10 year old or less cars" warranty at the end of 2014 so I would sort of expect to pay for those as that's my choice to have them done. It may all be for nought after tomorrow, but if this continues, I'm a Ford man for life. Ahh, so THIS is what customer service feels like...

Jock from The Garage Man after my own heart he's great

lol yes its called a tight **** lol but when your young and governed by a black box what choice do you have imagine that with 24 gears and 44ton on your back "harsh acceleration" is your only option

My advice over on the Streetka forum was get yourself an OBD tester from ebay £30 will save you a fortune in diagnostics bills! I have the D800 as well as a laptop full of tuning and Forscan , Mercedes and other scanners for cars my family have owned over the years and i reckon its saved me over £10,000. This is the latest D900 I can really recommend these as they also give a realtime display of OBD parameters as the car is running and you can reset the MIL light to get you home if the problem isnt so serious. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-Universal-Car-Fault-Code-Reader-D900-OBD2-EOBD-CAN-Diagnostic-Scanner-Tool-/122028314392?epid=1475176574&hash=item1c69744f18:g:v-8AAOSwhvFZCY8A There is a better one that collates the data and you can download it later on a laptop for analyzing enginer performance for tuning etc but its a few hundred quid! The bluetooth dongles are also good and a copy of Torque pro on your mobile is invaluable and with addons you have a dashcam for free. I am trialling a new dashcam app on android and another on windows as many of these cheap dashcams people buy are only vga so you would be better of saving £50 and just using your mobile as it has the motion sensor as well as many other things that make them better than a dashcam!

I sincerely hope that was a typo, or some sarcasm that I missed.

Brilliant, thanks for the help

If it passed the efficiency test and handbrake functions then it'll pass. What the can't see they can't test and they don't remove anything.

New to the forum, just thought id show of my Ford streetka winter edition 😀 What do you think?

I've had a black box for the past 2 years and like Jethro said you would make some emergency maneuvers and you can get a needs improvement message. The black box I had measured speed, acceleration, braking and cornering. Now with my fiesta I got it without the black box and can now follow the traffic at 35+mph

Those black boxes are a con. Someone pulls out on you, so you emergency stop. Instead of rewarding you for your good reactions and excellent observation skills, it punishes you for hard braking. However, if you endanger yourself by not braking, or braking gently, it rewards you for your sensitive touch on the brakes. You're pulling onto a motorway of fast moving traffic. You accelerate hard and pull on to the carriageway. Instead of rewarding you for your foresight in acxurately matching your speed to the traffic flow it punishes you for hard acceleration. However, cause a hazard by dangerously dawdling into the traffic flow and causing people to swerve or brake and it rewards you for your gentle caressing if the throttle. Make no mistake, the only person that benefits from black boxes are the insurers.

Maybe this'll help then? Let me just pull my waistband up to my armpits... here we go. Ahem. "Blah blah not an rs so why bother blah blah blah downforce blah blah boy racer blah blah 45mph is fast enough in a 60 blah blah put the brake on because I'm doing 3 miles an hour...." Feel better? Go for it mate, it'll make the back end look so much better!

Well after fitting the Spider tuning chip to my 1.6 tdci 115 (now 150) I was really noticing the body roll and the wife was complaining and the dog Barfd!. So it was either drive slower round corners (where's the fun in that?) or sort it., The 40 profile 18's were not helping either Just fitted the BMR78XZ whiteline Rear adjustable Sway bar (anti roll bar for us brits), and am very chuffed http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141436716578?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The car stays flat around corners and roundabouts now, but still has suspension, I purposely drove over speed humps and did both wheel and one wheel up jobs and the suspension of course hasn't changed, but stick her in a roundabout or a fast sweeping bend and she stays really flat and feels less stressed (its raining at moment so cant go too mad), Rear feels much more planted now Fitting wasnt too bad as the car is newish still so all bolts were clean. However the bush mounts did need a tap on the socket handle to free them up (all 13mm). The front arms were easier and need an 18mm spanner for the nut and a 10mm spanner to hold the centre from spinning Only issue was that the holes in the new bar were 2mm too small for the front bolts to fit through. This was remedied with a circular file and 15 mins of elbow grease, rather than a drill. Then the holes were greased up to stop corrosion. The new bar doesn't have stops for the rear bushes like the original, only two orange metal clamps to be applied. I used the old bar to set their position before I put it on the car. The new bushes have Teflon liners so are grease free for life. Went back on easy. Old bished come out of the metal clamps (reused) pretty easily as well with a small prybar There is just enough room to do this without jacking up the rear I put mine on the stiffest straight away. seems a great setting All in all a good investment and modification. Got 400 miles to do tomorrow with dogs in car so that will be a good test S

If yours is a 2014 the "secret compartment" was filled with the airbag light. It won be, the US fiesta is completely different inside for a start.

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I have found over the years its actually best to leave cars well alone and avoid sticking stupid things like massive amps and speakers and induction kits they end up costing you more headaches in the long run. I just wondered if there was a switch on the Fiesta somewhere i was missing as i have only had the car a wee while! I have just found there is a secret compartment under the radio apparently lol

Yeah W5W LED

head over to autobeam.co.uk they are good and you should find the same LED bulb your looking for

Get a good front and rear dashcams as well that reduces premiums from some insurance companies!

Defo a body shop job

You'd be surprised. It's not, the alternator is supplying them. It's really not an issue.

Was with LV for my first 3 years driving but they wouldn't allow any mods, so been with Admiral 2 years who have allowed to me add everything I want with the biggest hit being my remap costing £60 to my yearly total.

I too was 18 with one years no claims when I got my Fiesta St-Line 140. When I got my new fiesta my insurance was up for renewal 3 days later. I got numerous quotes using comparison sites and managed to get it for £939 through Admiral (via comparethemarket) without a blackbox. It really does make a difference on what you input as your Job. I'm an apprentice field technician in the IT industry and by putting that it would've cost me over £2k!!!! I made it Technical Assistant in Maintenance Services as it still describes what i'm doing, supplying tech assistant/maintenance service to customers. However, when I passed I was 17 and driving a 2005 1.2 SXI Corsa (Typical teenage car ik :D). I got my insurance once again via Comparethemarket but this time with a company called MyPolicy (I believe apart of Aviva not 100% sure) with a black box and payed £1400. I'll be honest I like to put my foot down as I like driving and often going for spirited driving (It was a corsa so nothing atrocious). MyPolicy were really laid as it seemed the box told a few fibs, on these spirited drives you now and then go above said speed limits and the box didn't seem to pick it up! It was then I read into their terms that I noticed that no action was really taken unless you go 50% over the speed limit (I.e. 90 in a 60) or over 100 in a 70. My friend went for the same company based on how lax they were with me and he's had the same experience. So if you want to let out your inner boy racer I'd look into them!!! This same friend has just got an Mercedes A200D as a company car and is insured through MyPolicy for £950 with 1 year NCD. Hope this helps :D

Push inwards as you look at it. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I hope she was wearing an orange jacket and a hard hat . I have a vision of a cat down a hole, with two men trying to work, and with the cat trying to "help".

Thanks for the reply. Not sure I quite understand which way I need to push the unit. Do you mean push into the lamp as you would look at it or into the lamp unit from behind? Thanks

The whole unit just needs to be pushed out. Hold the bottom of the bumper and push the lens inwards. The clips are quite tight but will go. Bulb holder twists off counter-clockwise. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

A trade case (2800pcs size) of screws seems to work; I've found. Each time i have bought one, a couple of weeks later, three vouchers come in the post (£10 off, 15% off and £50 off)

I'm just coming to the end of my second year driving, so am about to have 2 years no claims. My insurance for the past year was with 1 year's no claims. I paid a total premium of £960, which included business cover, legal aid and a courtesy car, and I do not have a black box. I am now 21 years old. My insurance is with Aviva. I worked my way to aviva by first using confused.com to get some comparison prices between different companies. I took the cheapest company without a black box at the time which was admiral. I had a look who they were underwritten by (Aviva) and went direct to them to get a quote. That's how I got my best price. I'm now looking to renew, and aviva have dropped of £120 from my premium this year for the same cover and vehicle. That's with a non-fault claim from this year to. They say non-fault claims don't affect your insurance, but they definitely do...makes me wonder how much my insurance would have gone down to if someone hadn't crashed into me -.- I suggest staying away from black boxes to be honest. I see little benefit from them, it's worth paying that extra and not worrying about your driving all the time. But in short, go to Aviva and get a direct quote and see what they offer you.

I use money supermarket for quotes, I've found them to be competitive. When I was younger I was with Budget, now I'm a bit older (35) I am with admiral. My wife has a fiesta titanium, I have a mondeo zetec with mods, both cars are 12 months old. We can drive each other's cars and have NCB protected and business use, it costs us £355 for all that [emoji16] we have a decent post code. I wonder if @Luke4efc or @JKSEN could explain what info the box sends back and what happens if your scores aren't great? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Any earth -Ve ( behind a bolt on boady work ) will do and any switched +Ve supply so that it switches off with the ignition and one to your lighting circuit so it lights up when the lights are on. You can put a fuse in line with the +ve so that if the gauge goes faulty you have some protection. Done this many times in other cars not a problem its all the same. Use a multi meter to check your wiring for what is switched or not ,makes things easy then. Use a piggy back fuse in your fuse box for the switched +ve.( forget what the piggy back fuse is called but plenty on EBay).

Haha I know that feeling - I needed an early non-sync screen and generally the whole sync/non-sync thing seems to make all displays crazy rare and expensive. I'm spending a fortune on a reversing camera next, but it's what we do.

Hi All , the names Thiran and i drive a 1.8 laser from 1997

I managed to get it for £1400 in my second year with no box. Those things suck, but luckily I was with co-op in my first year, and it was quite lenient with everything other than braking. I didn't end up caring about my score in the end, I could be getting 1/5 every day and it would make no difference.

Try giving Adrian flux a call. They do a discount if you’re a member on here, insurance will always be expensive mate, you’ll probably find you need a black box for one more year unless you want to pay through the roof. Im in the same situation as you, Costa a fortune

Isn't this week the start of the school holidays, when most people with kids take them somewhere hot

In the facelift you can just tap the 12v socket fuse - it's the one I'm currently using. It is also switched. Prefacelift I did wipers.

@bree1982 Totally get what you mean, however, patience and determination are key :P I'm slowly but surely getting where I want to be with my Fiesta, one step at a time haha :D Also, thanks for all the positivity <3

Use a glass polish or a claybar.

I wouldn't use it on the windscreen. The problem will start when the sun hits it or when it rains. The toothpaste mentioned above is great ive used this just make sure you wash it off properly

Should be ok but a more permanent option is Tigerseal. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

This key here- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-BUTTON-433MHZ-REMOTE-ENTRY-KEY-FOB-FOR-FORD-MONDEO-KA-FOCUS-FIESTA-TRANSIT-K2/162482877146?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I tested the original with one of these- Inside the key you will see the button side with the RCL circuit mounted on it. it is held in place with a black plastic cage, this is heat glued in place at 2 points (2 pillars) , you need to file or cut the top of only one pillar which will allow the RCL circuit to slide out. Between the circuit and the casing is a white plastic frame which is not found inside the key I listed above, locate the white frame over the microswitches on the new circuit and slip it all back into place. Seal the loose black cage back to the mounting pillar using a tiny drop of cryoacetate (superglue) which will melt the plastic forming a solid bond. The new board will look quite different with regards to circuit layout but will work no problems. Ensure that the battery contacts are not squashed or jammed down as this will stop the RCL circuit getting power. You may well find that on the old RCL circuit that there will be obvious discolouration on the board, this is a common problem that occurrs when keys are a few years old. This is usually corrosion from condensation or suchlike-

We were always having to adjust the tappets in those days too. I had a Ford 100E and the tappets needed adjusting about every 1000 miles. And what a job. It was a side valve engine and you needed to be able to stand on your head and have ten fingers on each hand. (1200cc producing 36 BHP - you youngsters don't know you're born )

Attach dash cam at the top of the screen to the left of the rear view mirror. Then hard wire it via the fuse box behind the glove box, then route wire up towards screen by hiding wire behind the rubber on the 'A' post & across the screen towards the rear view mirror. finally expose just enough wire to plug into dash cam.

Lot of people aren't aware that if you disconnect battery on Fords (and other cars such as Jags or Land Rovers) you lose the anti-trap settings from the door modules. Hence the one-shot stops working even though you can still manually raise and lower the glass. Handbook will have a section on how to reinitialise the windows, possibly in the section relating to jump-starting etc rather than with window info.