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People that can't seem to figure out how to turn their headlights on at night. Last night I had to blue light 16 (yes sixteen) drivers for suitable words of advice. 3 of these were on an unlit 70mph A road. [emoji17] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Taking the plunge on a maxton front splitter, then winning some side skirts on flea bay for £15 (+ delivery) in the same week.

Why don't people use that stalk that's only 1 inch behind the steering that tells other drivers what direction their going 😠 INDICATE 😣

I don't post advice for praise or glory but sometimes a polite thank you goes a long way.

I'll just leave this here 😉

I am writing this guide in addition to my first guide to help others if they want to install a sub box into the Mk7 using a RCA convertor to create pre amps out. Firstly I will add that this is not a simple job and I would not advise this to be done by a novice. How ever I hope my guide will make it easier for anyone trying to do the same. Also I will add for those that are screamish this does invole taking apart a 3 week old car, but absolutly no damage was done to my new little car. So here we go. Take out the front head unit, refer to my FIRST guide to do this. Once you have the head unit out you will have to disconnect two multi blocks from the rear of the unit, disconnect both and remove head unit to a safe place. The smaller multi block is just data cables. The connection you are interested in is the larger multiblock. When you look the block you will see 5 pairs of wires top n bottom plus a single cable on its own. The single cable on its own is the ignition live (only goes live when ignition is on). At the other end of the block you will see two fatter cables, the cable with black on it is the ground, and the other is the permannet live. The other eight cables which are a variety of colours are the speaker cables. The top row is the positive and bottom is negative. Now take your RCA convertor on it you will have two positive speaker cables and two negative speaker cables. To avoid cutting cables you can push a bare end cable into the back of the multi blocks so push two positive into the top row and two positive into the bottom row. It is not important which speaker connection you use just as long as you use the same for both neg and pos. On your RCA convertor you will also have a positive and negative cable, again push the bare end cable from your RCA convertor into the appropriate neg and pos connection on the multi block. Now with your ampilifier kit you will be supplied with a long blue remote live cable, this cable is pushed into the back of the ignition live cable (the single cable on the multi block), this will mean your amp will on go on when your ignition is on. Next you will have to feed your RCA cables, (supplied with your amp), your blue remote cable and your power cable to the rear of the car. First tie off your RCA cable and remote cable to something at the head unit so you dont pull them through. It is fairly easy to feed your RCA cables and your remote cable down from the head unit to the floor. You can then tuck them in behind the carpet, and lead them to the small side panel on the passenger side. Now you can take your main min 8 gauge power cable and connect it to the battery. Then this cable can be fed down through a hole next to the washer bottle which will bring it out by the inner arch wheel trim. Thread it round the arch, and by the door hinge you will see some foam sound insulation, this can be moved to the side so the cable can be fed through the hinge to the interior. Now lift up the rubber waterproof trim and feed 3 cables along it, the power cable the RCA cable and the remote cable, and they will now come out by the rear seats. It is now possible to pass all 3 cables along the side of the back seat so that they come out in the boot. Now just when you thought you were done you now have to create an Earth cable, this should be as short as possible and taken from the rear. I used one of the 13mm bolts that hold seat belt mounting in. Simple take out bolt connect your earth cable and put bolt back in. Now the fun bit connect all those cable up to your amp. I am using a active sub, meaning the amp is bulit into the sub box. To test it temporarily reconnect the front head unit and dash and power it up to see if it all works, (remember to turn on your ignition). It should all now come on. With me it all worked first time, I was very pround of myself. You can now put the car carefully back together. I did this whole job without a single scratch and no damage to the car at all, the entire system could be taken out without any sign that had been there. I hope this guide has been of some use. Any questions then please ask. Steve

Hello everyone, im new to the website! i have a Ford Fiesta 1.0 125bhp sport from 2014. I live in Madrid, Spain. I have a few questions but will look into the post through the sites. Where to find a Front Sport Grille and a Rear Left Fog Light. Thanks everyone!

The instrument cluster can be updated with the FoCCCus program and a modified high quality ELM327 interface. The update consists of 3 different files that needs to be loaded to the instrument cluster in the correct order. However before considering this option you must be aware that updating the instrument cluster with the FoCCCus progran and an ELM327 interface takes a really long time. At a Baudrate of 500.000 Kbps updating the Level 3 instrument cluster will take approximately 24 Hours. It also requires a really good quality ELM327 interface.

Every Focus MK3 Level 3 instrument cluster (with the large full color display) can be updated to the latest software version that shows trip mileage instead of average speed. The update proces of the instrument cluster takes approximately 40 minutes so a Ford dealer will probably charge an hour of diagnostics to update the instrument cluster.

Merlin, If the BSM (as- built) is the only option to click open, then yes, it will need to be de-coded. See if there's a BSM (main) or BSMii

I just asked the correct fuse for the Mk3 Focus on here lol.

Glad to be of assistance.

For future reference, the lower plastic trim around the switch can be removed from the vent easily, though you can't purchase them separately new. Searching ebay for Mk3 headlight switches brings up a few that are still in the surround so I bought one of them. If anyone needs a non-auto light switch I have one for sale lol. Thanks to Ian, who immediately disassembled his own car when I asked, I could see just how simple it was to swap them over, even for someone like me that usually breaks anything made of plastic lol. Have to pull off the side dash panel first and remove a T20 torx holding the vent in. Push the light switch out into the car from where the dash cubby and OBD port is, unplug and remove it. Push the vent out forward. Carefully unclip the vent grill from the duct. Then you can unclip the lower switch trim panel and swap it for the replacement. And refitting is a reverse of removal as Haynes would say.

He doesn't need to but it is certainly the advisable thing to do.

Whoa... Did you tell them they need to buy a Ford with auto lights?

Changed Lol ...Would of been good

Yeah, I find about 2 in 3 replies get no response, usually to a new member just asking one question. But everyone starts with just one post, and just sometimes I get a grateful reply or it develops into an interesting thread. Though it can be even worse when, after a few replies, and it looks like the thread is getting somewhere, it just .

Account settings and edit signature. This link should take you straight to it.

There's this subforum, but not many people post stuff or look at what's on there. Just keep an eye out on ebay, I picked mine up for £300 but needed two new tyres and then I powder coated them at £40 a corner. Not easy to come by at £300 with no curb marks though. Many are selling for £700+ with tyres. Wheels are an expensive upgrade. I know people who have paid £600 for one wheel in the past lol. I use this tyre size comparison calculator. I've inputted 195/50/r16 and 205/40/r17 for you to compare (ignore the offets, they are probably wrong). Just input the size of your current tyres and the new ones and it will tell you the percentage difference . What you have to remember is the diameter of your whole wheel will be around 8mm less from having a new tyre to a worn one. That equates to around a 1mph lower reading. Might be worth just checking your current tyre sizes. I'm pretty sure the 16's are 195/50/r16 but could be 195/45/r16. Either way use that tool to find a tyre that is the same size as to what you have.

It's a bit of an apples and oranges game but I've just reinsured my 2014 mk3 1.6 diesel. Renewal from Hastings was £940 with DRLs declared New price from quotemehappy was less than £400. That with me at 30, (im)mature student, 4 years ncb, wife at 29 on a provisional licence, fully comp, protected ncb, hire car, legal cover, personal injury, windscreen etc etc. Neither would insure me with a remap done though :(( Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

thats ok.

maybe I will contact them and ask and on renvewal i dont see option to protect my 1 year NCB

I had one of those wedgecams and it broke after 2 weeks. Light would come on but wouldn't record. Wouldn't mind but it happened mid drive too. Also had some cheapo one with that only lasted a couple months too. That had a small battery in it (instead of capacitors) and I think the summer heat killed it (as lithium-Ion + heat = bye bye battery). I'd say try and get a discrete one if you get an expensive one. Thieves will break the window if they see it and looks expensive enough.

I just sorted my insurance on a mk2 1.6 petrol. £1008. 22 with 3 rears ncb. I wouldn’t expect yours to be over £300

Try VLC (Videolan player - www.videolan.org), it has a humongous list of formats that it understands and plays.

You’re welcome @Liam40 I suppose in the interest of fairness I should probably say that not all Halfords fitters are bad (laws of probability), but all the times I have given them a chance they have messed up. And I’ve not heard any good reviews from friends. When buying a dash cam I would recommend your dad gets the best one he can comfortably afford, preferably with GPS. it’s GPS that is going to show what speed you were doing in the event of any accident. When it comes to these purchases, you usually get what you pay for Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You can use compatibility mode in windows 10 to run older programs - that might be an option? I just use an SD card adapter as suggested above as well. Personally I have a wedge cam, (also called A118c/B40c) which can be bought online from reputable places on ebay and Amazon. Also bought a Nextbase hardwire kit a couple of years ago. Removed the lot from my Mk2 and re-installed in the Mk3 all within an hour yesterday. I wouldn't have Halfords do it.

Yes it’s a ‘design feature’. 😜

That's a nice clean well looked after car you've got there, this is just MY personal opinion, I would keep it for another two to four years, you've spent out on the most expensive parts, so I'd keep it so I would have the benefit of it. The only thing I would do if it were my car, is I'd get a nice new set of alloy wheels, otherwise it looks spot on. As previously stated it's a known fact that diesels are not selling as good now ( Jaguar cars are cutting production of their diesel cars at Halewood) If you are adamant you want to sell it, I would put a new MOT on it, most people looking for a second hand car, like a new or long MOT, yours runs out in two months.

I broke my Hyundai Coupe for parts having done 160k miles in it over 13 years. When I removed the pump both the tank and in-tank filter (shown below) were as you say pretty much spotless. I must admit; I was actually quite surprised myself! (Incidentally pretty much every fill-up I did in that car was from a near-empty tank as I religiously monitored its fuel consumption and so wanted to minimise calculation errors)

Surely you could find one at a local dealership or second hand car sales company? Take one of their's for a test drive, you ain't gonna eat the car :) On the topic of gears, I have the 4 speed automatic (1.6), it revs at 2900 RPM @ 70 MPH. I'm sure the 2.0 automatic would rev at even less :) EDIT: On the topic of road-noise - I've found that my Focus is no noisier than a 2015 Astra with brand new tyres. I wouldn't say road-noise is excessive on this model, far from it actually. But do keep in mind that the MK2.5 is from 2008, and that it isn't going to sound as quiet as a 2017 plate Mercedes.

The 1.8TDCI usually accepts an EGR blanking plate without any problems. However, this egr is probe to problems with the actuator, that is the electrical part, that cleaner will not reach or have any effect on. But you may be lucky! If it is the EGR actuator, they can be bought for about £60, and are very easy to change, unlike the whole valve, which could cost well over £500 with labour. Cutting out with no error codes sounds more like problems with a blocked fuel filter, or air or water in the fuel.

I've driven a mk2.5 1.6TDCi Titanium for 3 years...now have a Mk3 1.6TDCi Titanium... The sound difference is massive! The mk3 is so quiet I almost forget it's a diesel, both inside and out. Lack of sound deadening in the mk2.5 Titanium was one of my biggest dislikes about the car, I'd rather have had more sound deadening than a dash cubby and ambient lights tbh.

270 to 300 mpg! Damn son, I need one of those!!

Sounds like a good old fashioned sticky bendix, DMF break up usually means no starter, not a whirling

We've had a 2.0 Mk2 Focus for nine and a half years and I can't fault it. It's got more power and torque than the 1.8 and gives the same or better fuel economy. Other than giving it a Terraclean I've not had to do anything to the engine. I did get it remapped which gave a tiny bit more power and improved throttle response but it's probably not been worth the uplift in my insurance as a result! I'd recommend holding out for a 2.0. Have a look at my build thread for Eve for more info.

It's a chain, as is the 1.8 I believe. Hardly uses any oil, well mine hasn't anyway, changed my oil 3000miles ago and so far the level hasn't moved. All I'd say is cause it is a chain I use the best oil I can afford, currently got magnatec in it. Tax I pay monthly DD and it's £18

I have never driven an ecoboost so can not comment on how they feel. But, like you, I thought the post cat oxygen sensor was purely to check the cat is effective and has no other effect on anything at all. But who knows what they may have done to make cars ever more complcated

I don't mate, there would be too many made up 'scottish' words, a tonne of swearing and too much general nonsense going on and I'm camera shy lol.

looks like the dash has had a thumping too, cant see that being knees, that would hurt!! im 6ft 3 and i can manage to get in and out without smashing my knees or legs on the dash.

it's the grown-ups version of lego lol

Light Trails

for many many reasons and id rather not have my thread turned into a vent argument