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What programme are you using? Is it a good make of ELM adapter i.e. tunnelrat? Have downloaded the drivers?

These are examples of how it is. Color is various, it's even possible with your very own car

I’m new here as I’m in the market for a Ford Focus Estate and I’m hoping if any of you are interested you can help me find the right spec engine I should be going for. My partner has just bought a 2011 low miles titanium mk7 fiesta and I’ve realised it’s about time I stopped paying ridiculous amounts of tax on high powered poor emissioned cars . I’m your typical motorsport fan and like something a bit old school - but I’m also growing up (31 this year) and about to start a family. I want an estate that is cheapish to run. I have sold my Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.5 V6 - which I love and is very comfortable - but the tax was £540(!) a year. It just seems absolutely pointless paying that for what I need a car for. So there’s the first requirement - no silly tax amounts - my absolute limit is £180 a year. I’m obviously aware of the ecoboosts - but more on that in a minute. This unfortunately categorically rules out an ST estate. I do a commute of around 18 miles total a day and do the odd weekend away throughout the year down to Weston or Brean or somewhere similar. A sixth gear is not an absolute essential but would be nice. The mpg on my rover was around 25 daily - so any mpg from a Ford engine that fits the tax band above is considered an improvement. Whatever I buy will be considered a long-ish term family investment (being an estate) - I’m not convinced a hatchback will be suitable (I’ve had one for a few weeks) and despite the budget I don’t have money to throw around - for me, I have to get this right first time and have it last a good few years. So this leaves me currently with a list of wants (which I think? are sensible and low risk - you tell me) - Petrol engine - Manual - Mk3 or above only - don’t want a 2011 for some reason - happy with 2012 onwards but my budget requirements mean I stop at 2015 - budget - originally budgeted £7k - but i’ve realised I really need to extend it to £10.5k - deep down I’d prefer something bang up to date with DLR’s and touchscreen but I know this stretches above £10.5k - Titanium at the minimum - obviously want to avoid outstanding Technical Service Bulletin’s - the age of cars I’m looking at are well out of manufacturer warranty - any big jobs - my problem - have I overlooked any? - preferably below 30,000 miles - would consider going up to around 38,000 miles but no higher - annual road tax limit no higher than £180 - Colour - basic colours on earlier MK3’s let’s it down - will only consider black but I really like the frozen white having seen one recently After doing my research - What I don’t want : - a 1.0 ecoboost - especially pre 2014 for the obvious reason - but also put off all age 1.0 ecoboosts by what people have said about mpg - just left at thinking what’s the point of taking on the risk of servicing the turbo engine and it’s unquantified future into high mileage - a power shift gearbox in any shape or form - sound a nightmare - a 1.5 petrol 2015 era ecoboost (clutch slippage TSB) - I thought I’d cracked it with this engine - I have found this age (2015) currently on sale with this Petrol engine with outstanding TSB’s showing on Etis - don’t want the cost of potentially replacing a clutch - am I over worrying? I know the TSB is a software update - but it “could” lead to a dealer blagging me I need a new clutch, presumably a clutch change in something like this will be well over £500? Don’t know - basic trim models not wanted - no edge, Zetec - I much prefer the Sony headunit on the earlier mk3,s - and it’s more a case that I hate the buttons on the Zetec one - which means titanium. Later model with touchscreen obviously not an issue (looks modern) but still like the titanium trim and extras - preferably not a diesel given my commute distance but should I care about this? Am I being “anti diesel project fear” by turning away from these? If I did want a diesel - What Diesel engines should be avoided? I’m not clued up on TSB’s or any horror stories from diesels - I take it they all have dpfs?? Not sure - need someone to educate me on focus estate diesel - there are loads more diesels available in the Focus estate market - so this route might make my quest easier. What Euro rating are the Diesel engines? - especially the earlier ones - are we in risk territory for smoke out the back and MOT failure?? All this has me arriving at: 1.6 Petrol Ti-Vct - seems to be less problems with these engines? However - I’m struggling to find one in estate that fits: A) titanium B) below 30k miles C) Manual D) decent colour (not deep dull red, silver or midnight sky) The lack of availability for what I need has made me question - am I going for the right engine? Because if I start looking at diesels - this seems to open up availability of the estate in the Focus estate market. Give me your thoughts and stories. I know it’s possibke to get what I want in budget (just missed a lovely 25k mile 2012 frozen white manual 1.6 ti-vct titanium at £7800) but the combination of manual and 1.6 ti-vct low miler is proving difficult. shoukd I hold firm or turn my head to another engine??

Haha stole my thunder quite literally only just sent my engine cover off to be done haha

My 2p, the ecoboost may go pop but so may a 1.25. the ecoboost pulls from low revs whereas the 1.25 needs to be doing 3-4000 to start pulling properly. I've had both, I'll keep my ecoboost

I liked watching this thing defy physics this afternoon... It's basically a forklift, that picks up a container using tiny hooks on only two corners, shoots it upwards as if it was made of cardboard and gently places it onto top of 4 other containers... 😮 Cranes are huge so it's not a surprise to see them throwing containers around but I hadn't seen one of these before!

Check your wiring and fuel lines you may have dameged them.

If it was fine before the clutch change it should just be something simple, left a plug off somewhere I reckon? Have you got any diagnostics to check for fault codes?

Hi just joined. johnmoly53. my car ford Mondeo 199-2000/ 16v.2.0 .see picture. thanks.

Id try with a different unzip prog if you can or on a windows computer.

Front splitter fitted and torque mount fitted. good job I had my torque mount done as my standard one has snapped which allowed more play in the engine, not good. The engine is now stiff with little play.

This may be true but bear in mind any euro 4 diesels fitted with a dpf will fail the MOT if there is any visible smoke. Egr's reduce combustion chamber temperatures and emmisions so you would need to be sure there was no visible smoke had you blanked it off. You would probably want to avoid strict testing stations as well because another new rule is that any visible sign of tampering with the system "big shiny blanking plate" is also a fail. So blankers be prepared for what they are looking for 👍🏼.

Currently at NKE Performance getting front splitter changed and Engine Mount fitted.

having driven both engines the EcoBoost is better in terms of acceleration and fuel economy. 1.25 I averaged approx 320 miles to the tank the 1.0 EcoBoost 420 miles to the tank also the EcoBoost archives zero road tax

Agreed although on some engines i.e. my 1.8 TDCi the EGR is an absolute bar steward to remove because it's part of the manifold Considering how expensive most EGRs are brand new for most issues that might be a misbehaving EGR it's definitely worth giving it a clean to avoid having to pay ££££.

Here’s mine so far. Changed the grille and fog light surrounds. I still want to cover the horrible silver trim on the windows and I’d like to add DRL lights but so far I’m happy with it. I’ve had it remapped and added a K&N filter. That’s made a massive difference to the car too.

Upgraded my puddle lamps today to LEDs

Good job I did before my memory loss.lol

Just an update a very big thank you to everyone for the support. I got the delivery of another wiper stalk from ebay at a grand price of £5 with free delivery. I fitted this stalk in and I can gladly say all is well washers front and back now working. Thanks again

Stock header tank back in and new carbon dipped washer fluid cap just got to install the front strut brace brackets now

Thank you both I got them from Tufskinz as well got a discount code if you’d like it USE CODE FOCUS10 for 10% off

Are you sure it's the rack? The symptoms you describe could easily be a knackered lower arm ball joint or even a strut top mount. Get a second opinion from a trusted mechanic. Had a customer with the exact same problem, the car only clunked when she parked in her car park at home at the exact moment when she turned from left lock to right lock. Was the lower arm ball joint. Rossco

If it says front egr only I would suggest the two are shaped different and the plate only fits one not both. Egr valves are not that big of an issue, just take it out and clean it out with petrol and a small plastic bristled brush like a tooth brush. I also regularly use brake and clutch cleaner spray to clean egr's. People replace them all the time and 90% of the time they just need a good clean out. Even the worst ones can usually be sorted by soaking them overnight. Just don't get any fuel/cleaners into the electrical parts. Use a screw driver to push the valve open from the inside, push it back shut from the outside. Keep cleaning and forcing open and closed till it starts moving again, eventually it'll start to "ping" shut by itself. Once it does you cracked it, pop it back in and go make a cuppa with a grin on your face. Rossco

I do not advise anyone in the uk to fit a blanking plate as of may earlier this year it's an MOT fail now. Any kind of tampering or modification will fail the MOT test now. Also egr's save you fuel. They are easy enough to periodically remove and clean out with petrol and a brush. A soak overnight usually fixes even the worst ones. Also eml light on is a fail now too and blanking it "without" deleting it will bring eml on. Rossco

Hey, this could be a battery issue but may not. There are simple steps/tests which will confirm or deny this. Firstly a 6 year old battery is NOT that old at all. My 2002 mondeo ghia x had its original ford battery replaced in 2015 making it 13 years old, it would have been savable with a flush out and new acid but I didn't have time but did have a spare batt. One thing to note is an alternator charging at only 13.5v is ok but not that great, 13.5v - 14.5v is the acceptable range so your just within it. I would first check for a parasitic drain as it's very easy, takes little time and is free if you own a meter or can borrow one, if not it's £15 well spent. parasitic drain testing; 1) open bonnet 2) lock car "shuts computer systems down" 3) disconnect battery earth lead 4) using a multimeter set to "10 amps max DC" connect the positive meter cable to the earth lead of battery and the meters negative cable to the battery negative terminal. Doing this will start up some computer systems temporarily so it's necessary to wait for these to all go back to sleep "could take a few min, observe ampage on meter screen falling". 5) Once the system has settled you want to observe the ampage on the meter screen, it's should really be no more than 200 miliamp. If once settled it's reads higher than this then you have a parasitic drain and you need to start the tracing process which I can get into later if needs be. If you don't have a meter and can't get one then disconnect the battery negative terminal overnight as isolating it from the system will prevent parasitic draining and could confirm the drain if it then stopped happening. On the other hand your battery may be the issue. I've seen many battery's with a defective single cell which would work when it wanted to and not when it wanted to. Car would start go to shops fine, back out shops car instantly dead. Than back to life after a jump start. Easiest way to detect this is to check voltage when battery is dead, each cell makes around 2.1/2.2volts so hence 6 cells x 2.1/2.2 = around 12.8 volts in a healthy battery. So when one cell goes dead it will read 10 point something volts showing no activity on one cell. This issue regularly passes the tests that garages and Halfords do so discount their investigation immediately as it doesn't cover a faulty cell issue as if the cell works during their test the battery will pass. And no the little light wouldnt drain a diesels battery overnight unless it was a proper interior/exterior illumination bulb. The above testing will tell you if it's the battery or the car as even if an interior illumination bulb is left on all night and car won't start in the am it'll still read 12v not 10v. If you need to know how to trace a drain let me know. It's easy. rossco

It's the seat fairies 🤣. 8 way seats are indeed a pain to set properly. I share a work car with another Officer and he's a shrimp, every time I take over the car I nearly castrate myself on the steering wheel. I"ve used a metallic silver marker to make a line on the seat rail so I can at least get the horizontal adjustment the same each time and height is guaged by putting my hand on the top of my head, if it just touches the roof lining then I'm high enough. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

Hello, My timing chain was worn on my Transit and my local garage wanted £650 to fit a chain kit, which was more than i could afford, i wanted to do the chain myself but i have never changed a chain before only cambelts so i was a little uneasy, i just needed some reassurance, anyway i found a video showing how to do the job at minicammotors.com It looked straight forward, so i brought a chain kit and timing pin kit and did the job myself, it took me about 5 hours! they also offer free advice which i did not need because the video said it all well worth watching

not progress in my book

I presumed Diesel, and thats not the best thing to do, ooops getting my tec and torq mixed up

no timing chain interval as such, very reliable . car falls to bits before chain does. :)

My mk3 did over 175k on original chain and tensioners, you only need to change if it gets noisy and then normally just the tensioner