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Well howdy! It's been a while and I can only apologise! No real reason other than life... Y'know! Hoping everyone is doing well and that 2019 has gotten off to a great start for you all! Pleasantries out of the way, back to modding!!! A mod Ive been meaning to do for ages is heated seats - @madmole has a tut up here for a generic retrofit which is awesome, but it looks like the kit I bought has different wiring than his. With that in mind, before I start, coupla questions. I need to tap into: Battery pos Battery neg (easy grounding points all over the car so not a problem) Ignition live and Nighttime lighting And I need to find all these in and around the centre console and seats as the provided harness ain't long enough to get to the footwell fusebox. Any ideas chaps and chappettes?

As an owner of a MK3 who’s just stuck his door seals back on for the 738262828th time, this made me chuckle with sadness 😂

All done, nice and shiny! Removing the old button is a destructive process, so don't just experiment if yours is in good condition! Use a slim flat blade screwdriver, and place in between the black rubber lever, and the plastic button. You can then start to wiggle it out, where it will kindly break and self destruct. Just proceed to remove all the bits including maybe levering the bottom too. Putting the new bit in is a simple push fit, but be careful to orientate it so the longer bit is upper most. You need to jab it with the palm of your hand till you hear both top & bottom clips locate themselves. Now, £13 is extortionate for a tiny bit of plastic, but, there you go... Part No. F1447426

I recall reading somewhere that there was a software update issued for this issue. Take it to Ford and ask them to upgrade your modules as there would have been many since 2017, and as your car is still under warranty might as well get it done for free.

Due to the fact that I made the cable myself, I only needed to replace the connector. So, I got this connector, and sensor works great.

exactly as 1979Damian says. nanny state "pointless safety idea" virtually all manufactures fit. With the unlit steering wheel buttons of a focus, on an unlit road I find it particularly painful as I only drive it now and then I can't work out which buttons I need and often once set cancel the lot with that pointless switch.... only to go back to square one not knowing what to press... proper cars you just set a speed.... and a stalk is much better than silly buttons... and the name res (short for resume) is a dim name for cancel too ! no doubt some 3 year old who doesn't even have a driving licence believes res means reset (which would almost explain each feature it does), but why move away from a naming convention some 70 years old that worked well ?

Looks like it's MTX75 not ib5 I have lost my reverse lights, reverse sensors and rear wipe when reversing. Are all these functions fed through the switch in the box? I'm guessing the long high pitch tone I hear when engaging reverse is the sensor detecting a system fault. I wonder if I could plug in my Forscan and diagnose it?

You need to register as IO, it's free but it rather irritatingly insists on a monthly password reset which can be a bit of a chore, it's handy for finding out your VIN if you don't have the V5 to hand or can't be bothered to brave the cold and check the car.

I've found https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/ to be far more reliable, just pop your VIN in and it even knows your build date. It's especially handy when Ford have multiple variants of the same part and you're not sure which one is yours. I had an issue with ECP where they insisted the lower arm they supplied was the right one (they only did this one type) but with my car being the saloon it turned out mine used the type they didn't stock.

Correct, the "On" button just arms/enables the cruise control system (it's a rather silly step that Ford insist on, it's not like someone is going to accidentally activate cruise control by accidentally pressing the + button), pressing the + button after pressing the On button will activate the cruise control at the speed you're travelling at that point. When cruise control is active i.e. the green circle symbol is illuminated, pressing the "RES" will deactivate cruise control but leave the system armed i.e. it will remember the speed you had it set at last so if you press the RES button again it will accelerate back up to that speed. (If you press the OFF button it turns the system off and it will forget what the last "set" speed was so even if you press the "On" button after pressing "Off" you'll have to press the "Set" button to pick a new cruise speed.

Hi guys new here & to all ford things first I’ve owned so glad I’m here here my mondeo prettty standard 👇🏻

Hi All. I found this forum by looking through google, (other search engines are available) for a fix on a dpf issue. Decided to register so I could comment and thought it would be rude not to say a quick hello and introuduce myself. My names Marty and I live on the outskirts of Belfast, just across the road from Stormont, the waste of space that it is. I have a 2008 cmax 1.6 tdi that I use to drive to work etc. It’s an old car but it’s mine and the missus can’t mouth off about my empty sandwich cartons and ***** packets that lay about in it 😂😂. She drives our other car which is not a ford so it will remain unmentioned, that I keep clean, but she can do one when it comes to my wee run around. Anyway, I don’t know much unfortunately about cars, but I have a repair manual and a willingness to learn so if I can chip in with my own experiences and help others then hopefully my time here will not be wasted. As I mentioned, I’m here for a dpf issue so I’ll document my struggle there, but as to this thread, see ya round peeps

Had to share this. I have been looking for some ST seats for ages but never got round to getting them as most i looked at were either too pricey or dirty, rubbish or ***** burn marked. I saw an ad where a fella was saying he had some to sell and would buy mine, too good to be true? so i spoke with him and it turns out his boy couldn't get insured unless he returned his fez to standard, as it was just a standard trim from new. Seats, rear bumper/diffuser and spoiler, gave him mine, less than £200, that's what i call a result.

Did he have your k and n filter too !

I ended up removing the bar which made it far easier - like yourself I am really pleased with the lights, a very worthwhile mod. Paul.

More like "that's a shame, I was looking forward to my £50 commission on selling you a rip off product that doesn't actually last for the 150 years I claimed previously!" There are many better products out there that will also prevent the paint from fading that doesn't cost over £250 to have done. Seriously if you want the paint in as good of a condition as it will get then a detailer will do a new car clean for you. Just to add, you don't polish the car each time you wax it. You have to remember it's like using very fine sandpaper on your car to remove a small layer or lacquer. Eventually you'll remove all the lacquer and be polishing the base coat. Polishing is only for when you have to carry out paint correction (such as scratches) If you are polishing all the time to remove swirl marks then you're washing your car wrong.

Yes, I have asked for no stickers to be on the car! I think that I will provide the plates(their name on the plate is too big print and too bold for my liking) and ask them to fix them on, already checked they can use sticky pads at customers request and judging by peoples comments best not to say anything about taking the number plate cost off the invoice! I mistakenly thought that it was for making up a set of number plates but forgot about a cost for fitting them:(

I did initially, didn’t last too long. Whatever works I guess!

Hi All Finally got it fitted today after some fabrication on my part. Not all of the right hand end cut off. Just deep enough for the remaining depth to fit under the air trunking pipe

The "On" button doesn't turn cruise off on the MK2, it purely arms the system ready for the driver to set whatever cruise speed they want. The "RES" button toggles it on and off (at whatever speed it was engaged at last), the "Off" button entirely disarms cruise so it won't respond to any inputs until the "On" button is pressed again.

Talking of stupid stickers, cannot believe people agree/don’t take off the whopping Arnold Clark stickers from the rear window, looks absolutely hideous. Saw them selling an S Class Merc once with that sticker on the back, couldn’t believe how bad it looked haha

yes need to remove it little bit , use that.

Its hard to say for certain but if the alternator has been changed in the past week and you say the noise is there with the engine running and the car stationary, chances are your problem is related to the alternator or the aux drive belt and its tension. It would help if you stated what engine type/size you have in your fiesta.

Yes, agree. I had turbodiesels with 200 - 295 lbs/ft of torque for over 20 years, found it very hard to adapt back to petrol - even the turbos feel a bit weedy, but with current mileage can't really justify diesel economically, plus we now have particulate filters, adblue etc to bother about. We tend to get a bit hung up on sexy sounding bhp figures when generally it's the torque that makes it feel "fast" in everyday driving. I think about Usain Bolt - when he reaches max pace near the end of the 100m that's horsepower, but when he explodes out of the trap - that's torque!😁

@Lenny honestly not sure. I'd of thought it's a processing one.

Which seal do you think is leaking? The rocker gasket should be cheap and easy. Or do you think it's the headgasket? A minor oil leak on an old car isn't really worth repairing, unless it's likely to contaminate the clutch which sounds possible here? It's also worth noting that oil leaks are a new MOT failure for this year, down to testers discretion but basically if it forms a pool on the floor while on the test ramp it's a failure.

Well, that was certainly easier once all 7 bolts are removed! Still a palava just to get access to replace a bulb, but I'm very pleased with my LED replacement...

Looks like they could use some 5's training in that lab it's very cluttered especially for a chemical environment, safety & fire hazard aswell as risk of objects falling from a height, I assume is an education lab and not a processing one?

Forscan is free... The adapater only costs about £15 and I assume you already have a laptop or smartphone.

Its best to check the easy and obvious things first, and always get a second opinion on a costly repair. Let us know how you get on.

2005 Ford Focus Hatch back owner

Things have been a bit quiet here. Thought I might tell a story on what I did last week. Last week went into uni to pick up this M&S bag containing a polistyrene box with ice in it. Im currently doing a dissertation looking at mice spleen cells so had to go to this place to get the spleens and bring them back to uni to extract the cells. The ice box is to keep the spleens fresh. Did find it funny carrying the bag on the train. Would of been a little funny if someone thought of it as a suspicious package 🤣 Went to the place and it's not bad. Wouldn't mind working in this sort of environment From there went back and carried out the experiment. Hadn't eaten a thing from 8am to 4pm so went to one of the shops nearby and got the British classic fish and chips 🤣. Do hate my stomach as I just overthink about it and worry if all of a sudden Id feel sick

I know that know 😂 😂 I think il leave them out, less hastle for next time 😂

2 screws missing from there lol

Indeed it does.

I'm going on Dragons Den soon, with Lenny.

A hammer lol. Break the taper and then pry down using a bar or wishbone lever

Send it back... Early Mk3's with even half that mileage are nothing but trouble. I'll bet it's got a wet boot too... And door seals hanging off... And interior electrical issues... It's a fairly common fault tbf, and I haven't heard of any electrical issues being specifically caused by it. The carpet and sound deadening will be saturated by now though, so make sure they're dried out properly otherwise it'll smell really bad in a few days time. You don't say which engine it is, but I'm guessing it's just the basic 1.6 Ti-VCT rather than the 1.6 EcoBoost...assuming it is the Ti-VCT, running a bit low on coolant shouldn't affect it like it would with an EcoBoost.

It's normal If you buy it however and it has a DPF I would recommend getting a catch can. Soot doesn't fill DPFs, it's the small amounts of oil that get combusted from the ***** poor recirculation system. I also made a drain hole in the bottom of my intercooler; to drain it at services intervals

From photos, it looks like the Pre-fuses are hidden down one side of the main fusebox in the engine bay. They are all the big, bolt-down type. I think disconnecting the -ve battery lead would be essential before bringing metal tools anywhere near these!

I personally drop 1l out and refill with 1l diesel, drive round the block, low revs, low load. Drop the lot out, leave the bung out and tip 1l fresh diesel in.....allow to drain for 5mins (***** break) Bung cheap oil in -5w/30(low saps) from home bargains £14 A pop- Drive round the block(low revs, low load) Drop that + change filter then refill with Magnatec 5w/40 C3 dexos2 ...... A5 is specified but C3 is better for diesels. First time I did a flush as above I got loads of lumps of carbon out and my oil pressure at the turbo banjo shot up to 2.3bar at idle from 1.6bar (hot) 6.1bar at idle from 5.0bar (cold) I had a special banjo bolt made with a 1/8npt thread in the top for my pressure sensor fitment. I don't know if these later 8v motors will prove to be as unreliable as the older 16v counterparts but given that they use a similar EGR system I wouldn't be surprised to find it's a carbon muncher. I'm taking no chances! I keep the oil crystal clear and monitor oil pressure.

Definitely doable. I did it to my old mk2 a few years back. If you check through the guides thread I have one on there with everything you need listed and full fitting guide. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

if it does it when the ambient temp is 15 to 25 but not when its below 5C it might be a cold weather map is circumnavigating the stupidly lean map it usually uses on petrol engine'd bikes its becoming more and more common to tweak the AIT (air intake temp sensor), it can have a resistor put inline so it more often uses the cold weather map and the bike is far more user friendly with a far less snatchy throttle http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/416881-Booster-plug-review

Yeah, sounds like the connector isn't quite right.

It was Ben Collins on the Watchdog programme...when the Stig can't manage a hill start they had to accept something was wrong... I've already said this this about the E5 diesels though, it's purely down to the mapping for lower emissions. At least VW just used cheat software so it could keep the driveability, economy and power of their engines...

It's common diesel issue. The EcoBoosts don't usually drive that badly though. Has it been a problem since you've owned it or just recently started? Also is it a 125 or 99ps model?

OUTCOME: When I started it up, the cog/i warning light had returned, and it was in limp mode. I drove it to see if the DPF needed drying out, but it was really sluggish in every gear. Using forscan, I reset the fault codes, and the warning light was gone. So was the limp mode. It drove better than it ever has before. The acceleration was incredible. I took it for a half an hour drive up the motorway at 80mph in fourth gear at 4000rpm. when home, I used forescan again. It still had code P2459 (maximum number of regens reached). I wanted to do a static regen to see if I could get rid of it now that the dpf was clean, but it failed again half way through. Realising that the code was obviously stating I had reached the maximum allowed, I reset it. However, this option says that you must not perform a static regen afterwards. I checked the codes and now there are NONE!!!!!! The car drives like a dream. Hopefully it will do an active regen whilst driving like it should do. I'd like to thank peter for all of his help and hope that this post will help others in the future :)

I do not really understand what the glowplug monitoring on these cars does. There is no current monitoring, so glowplug condition (including failed plugs) can not be detected. (*) There is a sensing signal from the Glowplug relay output, via fuse F28 in the engine fuse box, feeding the voltage signal back to the pcm. Thus the pcm can tell if the relay and main glowplug fuse are ok. And I would expect this to cause DTC P0380 if it was wrong. But I also know that my main glowplug fuse had blown, and the light did not come on. The symptom was sluggish starting as Winter approached. But in fact, I found later that the starter solenoid was getting poor, and that may have been the cause. Most of the time, these engines do not seem to need the glowplugs, and don't care. The high pressure fuel injection helps here, older, traditional injection systems really needed the plugs. But I expect if you tried starting in arctic conditions without plugs, you would need a very good battery & starter, to get good cranking speed, and it might take quite a while. It would be useful to determine what is causing the P0380 DTC on Neil's car, since it did not show up on my car or on David's when the plugs are not working. Peter. (* Note: It would be just possible to estimate the glowplug total current from voltage drop in the main fuse and relay, via the sensing line to the pcm, but this would be difficult, and very error prone, so I doubt if it is done.)

Bought 2nd hand auto headlamp switch off ebay cheap, then new rain sensor, retaining clip,headlining wiring harness for titanium model. then just a case of getting it switched on via ford diagnostics. also fitted x vision rear parking sensors with x vision ford interface module and got that switched on at same time so parking sensors intergrate with radio display as if oem sensors , showing sensor display and sounder comes through speakers

The switch is for user press buttons only, so yes, if you press and hold the rear demister as you start the car to electrics, it will enter this mode. Then you press the OEM Sensor switch and it should beep. However, the fact that you get the thing working with the bulb removed, sounds like it could be either a bad earth, or a bad bulb holder. Check it for corrosion as a starting point.