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Another option to battens are these, this is just a Screwfix link, smaller quantities are available online from other retailers. These are also great for drawers with a ply/hardboard bottom too, just a few along the edge stops the drawer bottom falling out if it's over loaded. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-rear-panel-connectors-100-pack/6079V?tc=LT5&ds_kid=92700024762949010&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249413&ds_rl=1247848&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx5Tl_saT4QIVab7tCh2G_QFaEAQYASABEgKlOfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tbf with a BMW you would want the space saver on the front... RWD + a bit of drizzle + a rear spacesaver isn't going to end well! 😮

Didn't we already know that on here?😀

Hi Andrew, as mentioned in several threads, the Wi-Fi update is not currently operative in UK and several members have been advised by their dealers to turn off auto updates. Dealers generally seem willing to update software but not maps which seems to be regarded as a chargeable accessory.

Needs to be done with a load tester. I normally check that starter motor wiring can pull 2-300 amps. Voltage drop test could also be used to check wiring but better off with a load test as you don't know if the starter motor itself is trying to pull a load.

Just wish they'd make indicators standard fit on BMWs as nobody seems to purchase this optional extra.

If you get a creaking noise when going over speed humps it's likely to be the front anti roll bar bushes.

Bring it to Fife and I’ll look at it for you lol

I work at a Ford dealership and the prices Ford quote through their website are sometimes cheaper than our own prices (for some reason..), you can book through Ford and it will give you a price at the "Step 2 - Dealer" stage before actually booking: https://www.ford.co.uk/owner/my-vehicle/book-a-service#!/vehicle-step

usual instrument cluster dry joints / worn capacitors? car's the right age

Some places accept photo of documents instead of scanned, Can post all originals to me and I'll scan them for you 😂 The should hold off on requiring so much until such unfortunate time as of when a claim is made; then if x, y, and Z are not as promised by the policy holder then the insurance is void, This would save alot of office staff wages as only claims would require such processing.

I don't like the amount of information Hastings Direct want since starting my car insurance with them. I've never had to provide all of this before. Is this a new thing across the board or are they taking the biscuit? They want copies of the following: Proof of NCB Both front and back of photocard licence AND a code so they can check the licence online All pages of the V5 logbook Firstly not everyone has access to a scanner or a photocopier. And surely all of this available online to insurers anyway. But most importantly, if a picture of both sides of the licence and the whole logbook get into the wrong hands through a data breach or lost in postal transit, that's an easy way into identity theft! 😮

Thank you so much for all that detailed information, especially about high pressure pipes. I want to stay safe! I am going to try and track down the MAP sensor fault first as I think that is probably what is causing the poor performance my daughter is currently seeing. I would then move on to looking at what I can do with the injectors in place. Researching I see some people treating the injectors with kid gloves saying they break easy and others treating them as a lump of metal. I am not stupid enough to believe everything on YouTube so I might chicken out of unscrewing the injectors. However, if I can do a lot of the diagnostic work to figure out what needs replacing rather than paying mechanics labour rates I am willing to do that; it's also quite interesting. I can get IPA quite easily so should I just put it on (pour it on or apply with small paintbrush?) the leaked diesel around the injector area, leave it for a few minutes, then try scraping off any loosened gunk, hoover the bits up, then repeat until fully clean (or clean enough)? Also I have now got my email notifications working so I don't miss anything. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

@Bannko Can you please PM me the SAT NAV upgrade instructions for Galaxy 2016 - pretty sure it's Sync 2.

The 1st thing to do now you've recorded the codes is clear them all, that way if you find any in the future you know that they're recent and not from years ago.

Although it'll do the world a favour by temporarily removing one more "Sausage Jockey" from the roads

That "option" must be even more expensive on an Audi as even less of them seem to have them fitted!

For what it's worth, the only time I've experienced this was with my old 1968 Mark 1 Escort. It did it whether hot or cold. It could be solenoid or starter, or even both, however unlikely. I replaced the solenoid, but it continued. I replaced the starter motor which sorted it, due to missing teeth on the old one. I had to bump start the car on a few occasions beforehand. It would lock as well. The starter would lock onto the flywheel, and I'd have to rock it free, which is harder than it sounds, and can potentially lose even more teeth. I've done the screwdriver across the solenoid and everything. However, that was a car that's almost my age 😂 Wish I still had it.

To check the cables, start with a visual & feel test. Just follow the heavy cables from battery +ve to starter, and from battery negative to the grounding lug on the engine, usually near the starter motor. Look for corroded terminals or visible cable damage, check connections are tight, and also feel the cable, especially at the ends. Cables can break inside the insulation, they will feel weak & floppy if broken. I had intermittent starting failure, it was the solenoid. I managed to buy just the solenoid, but it took a lot of finding! With care, and ideally the help of an assistant, it is possible to use a multimeter to check for voltage drops in the cables, and for voltage at the starter motor while trying to crank the engine. Earth cables are easy enough. But decent insulated clips are needed to check the positive leads, short circuits on these can cause fires!

This literally describes most modern car faults...

If it were me looking at it, before anything gets disturbed I would load test the cable to the starter motor and the ground from the block to the body.

It is probably that the version of Sync you have in the Focus is an earlier version which doesn't support the track display through BT (most likely Sync 1.0). The version you had in the Fiesta would have been a newer version (Sync 1.1).

I wonder if you have noise cancelling speakers/microphones

My key fob for 2011 ford edge just stopped working. Battery wasn't dead. I tried the method described here and it worked beautifully! Thank you so much for the information! I unlocked the door with the key, then turned the key to the first position and off again about 6 times. Worked like a charm!

Marriage is like a grenade; Pull off the ring and you lose your house

Pretty much par for the course for BMW drivers then. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

I certainly don't recommend this but I regularly, almost daily, see an older BMW 3 series that has had a space saver on the front offside wheel since before Christmas! 🤔

From what people have said on here and the lack of posts along the lines of the turbo on my MK3 Focus 1.6 TDCi has gone bang, I'd say so. The version in the MK3 has been reworked and is now 8v instead of 16v, other than injectors wearing out a bit quicker than on most other modern diesel engines it seems to be pretty solid.

Im all for keeping older but mechanically solid cars on the road but in your case I'd say bin it. The 1.6 TDCi engine is a dog (It's actually designed by Peugeot) and has an infamous reputation within the garage industry for premature injector failure and excessive oil carbonisation which progressively starves the turbo of oil before it eventually goes bang. Most garages in my area won't even touch the job because even though Ford released a full TSB covering renewal of the entire oil feed loop (which you would have thought would prevent a recurrence), it can just as easily happen again, and again, and again. And an angry customer making a scene in your garage when you've not done anything wrong is not a good look. Other than a susceptibility to rust on the bottom leading edges of the body, I'd say they're a pretty good workhorse as well as being good to drive. (I've got a 13 year old MK2 1.8 TDCi that's still on it's original fuel pump, injectors, clutch, DMF, turbo @ 159K miles and it still does 58 MPG on a decently length motorway run, although the gearbox did just fail this was the 1st major failure in 7 years of ownership).

I’d have repaired it for you lol. Trek though

It was because i was asking information about the vehicle like the VIN and registration, which i am sure like you wouldnt want plastered over the internet. I was not able to help any further than it was not on the TSB list from ford.

whilst we can never be sure as we haven't seen it, I tend to think that most places don't really want to repair punctures they just want to sell you a new tyre. If the car was driven with the tyre flat it is likely the side walls would get damaged even if the original puncture was in the middle of the tread. And from a liability point of view you can't really blame them for erring on the side of caution.

I've got a full size for mine I hate them space savers 😊

Hi, In case it helps anyone else, I've followed this guide to repair the same problem with my Mk3 Focus (2013). I did jack the car up and remove the undertray in order to drain the coolant, but I did not have to disconnect the pipe on the engine side. I can confirm the o-ring and clip listed above are suitable for the mk3. The only difference is that the connection on my focus is the other way around (male at the top), which means you have to insert the o-ring blind (I used my phone front camera but it was really tricky). Thanks again for this guide - probably would have paid a garage without it. Tim

My beloved 2017 Ford Fiesta ST-Line 1.0 5dr got stolen from outside my house between last night 19th March and am today 20th March in the Merstham, Redhill area in UK. The registration number is LJ17 UFU It has a red colour sports recovery hook in the front and a Miltek Sport non resonated exhaust. If anyone spots it, please contact the police. Thank you, Thanasis

Sorry to hear - nice looking car

Yep mine is definitely a powershift box and a bill for £1600 for a gearbox rebuild still under guarantee from the dealer when I bought the car due to a missed oil and filter change was an expensive mistake by someone.