Leaderboard

Ian's actually stood under a car in that photo telling the owner the exhaust is knackered Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Perfect get what you mean now. Got a doner car to test on so can be confident when I do on my own. If it goes pop i will take mine to garage Haha. Thats confidence for ya 😂. Thankyou for this great guide. Makes the job look so easy. Cant wait to get stuck in. 👍

Update: Put the old repaired AG9R-7002-MCC back. All good now. If anyone is interested the mechanic said the AG9R-7002-KA had one additional tooth in the 2nd gear compared to AG9R-7002-MCC.

@TimST2 ah god if you could see me stopping myself from laughing when I saw this 😂

If I can do it, you can definitely! Good luck!

As long as it lines up eventually it's alright... I hope you're good at ratios... The cam and crank will line up every 2nd rotation, but the fuel pump is only every 3*. So the first time they'll all line up is on the 6th rotation. You're meant to do it twice so that makes it 12 times. You'll lose count before then anyway. *Or if your name's Albert, the fuel pump never lined up at all 😄

If you look like your profile pic I'm not surprised! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Personal liability: having no money does not stop someone sueing you. It might put them off making the effort but it is not a bar to them doing it. So they could still get a court award made against you, and if you have not got any money to pay it, the debt may hang over you until you do have some money years later. Also in UK law they have 3 years to make a claim against you for personal injury and 6 yrs if you damage their property. Which makes it important to keep copies of insurance documents for years as you don't know when a claim might be made. Tomorrow someone could make a claim against me for something that allegedly happened 5 yrs 11 months ago that I did not even know I had apparently done. Courts can extend the time limits if circumstances are reasonable eg it took years to track down the culprit. The more you look into this kind of stuff the more you realise it is important to have personal liability cover and to keep the documents as evidence for years. If it's injury and the injured party needs medical care for the next 30 years and loss of earnings etc it's over a million quid. There have been cases where pedestrians have been sued for stepping into the road (on their phone or headphones on etc) and causing an accident, I recall one where a cyclist died and the pedestrian was sued. It sounds like I am going on a bit and preaching- but it is something you could be paying for for the rest of your life if you don't have the insurance cover.

It's cause they've all been told they're causing issues and get shot now before anything major happens

Dsg models are a little harder to trick. I can't remember the procedure off top of my head as I dont see many to be honest. They've all broken [emoji23]. I think I might get one diesel dsg a month.

Here is another set https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352506464099 They are both the same fit, but ebay states they will definitely fit your vehicle

I bought these for my Mk2, took 3 minutes to change, and that was both of them! Great light... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ford-Focus-C-MAX-MK2-2003-2018-24-LED-Number-License-Plate-Light-Lamp-Bulbs/113230835226?fits=Model%3AFocus+C-Max&hash=item1a5d156e1a:g:fYcAAOSwM85bhfoS&frcectupt=true

Most auto boxes will hold gears to higher revs when cold to help get both engine and box warmed up quicker.

That code normaly relates to the 02 sensor->Click

How times change, it used to be the thickness of a ***** packet😂

I found the smearing particularly dangerous when the weather is wet and bright at the same time, the effect of sun on the smearing could severely reduce forward vision. It takes forever to remove the rain-x as well. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

I too find rainx smeary, its ok till you use the wipers, bear in mind it was developed for aircraft with no wipers.

If that was the case @iantt used to look like this 😂. I remember this profile pic

Actually on that subject, when @Zain611 was talking about imagining what we all looked like I was thinking that it's only you I have a mental image of Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

18025 is the latest for the "old" sync 3 system (pre 19MY). F8 is only out for the "old" sync 3 system, F7 is latest maps for "new" sync 3.

Thanks for the reply, I'll get Fords to do the Sync3 update as its still under warranty- is there a recent one available?... as for the gearbox I have been the one and only driver and has been like this since new. I was just wondering whether anyone else out there had the same problem or if it was only me that had problem. I will take it back to Fords eventually, i just wanted some ammunition to take with me. thanks again

Turn off Wifi/auto update. It doesn't work in the UK>

The belt change and torque settings should be the same on the Mk6. Access is just a bit tighter with it being a smaller bay.

Thanks for the replies everyone, i have actually wrote to the ford protect administrator explaining the difference between mechanical failure and operational failure, but I doubt it will matter, they seem to be able to change the definition to whatever suits them. I also told them the part will ***** itself before the warranty runs out and it will cost more in the long run, the head gasket will probably need replacing too. But again some suit behind a desk won’t have a clue anyway. I would have thought the garage would have pushed a little harder too, it’s work and money for them, but they seemed very disinterested. It’s hard to beat the little independent guy, no more warranty crap for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

emailed them but not ha a reply..

Bluetooth was available on that stereo, the OP's problem is there is no bluetooth module fitted or if there is is not working, also there should be a button on one of the stalks with voice and phone on it.

You need to update Sync 3 yourself to solve the freezing issue, also, turn wifi off as this seems to clash with the Ford pass connect system. The transmission has an adaptive learning system that adapts to your driving style, but it's also tried to adapt to the people who drove it before you started driving it, if possible reset this and start the learning process again, this may help. If you are unable to do this yourself using forscan and an adapted ELM connector just ask the dealer to reset the adaptive learning system in the TCM

That's probably correct. I doubt there were any bluetooth enabled systems for in-car communications in 2006. The phone button will just mute the radio to enable you to take the call on your handset (which is illegal in the UK and some other countries now).

Just thought I’d update..... so I bought a used compressor, auxiliary belt, Pag46 oil and new compressor seals, all fitted by myself, then got ac system vacuum checked then re-gassed total cost £130 and two weeks later all is working fine, so quite a substantial saving from buying new.

ashmicro, 1979Damian, Ned_Mk2_1.8tdci and Micro thanks for the recommendations. I have no doubt I wouldn't be upset with any of them, will have a good look at the links provided, and what's available at the time. Thanks to all for responding.

'Though I've had that outlook on 'insurance' all my life!' . I don't blame you. Most of my working life has been working for insurance companies so I know how they waste money. The premiums are much more than the statistical risk. If it's insurance for something that would cripple me financially long term then I believe in it, but otherwise not. This is what I do believe having insurance for a) buildings of my house, b) household contents - but mainly because you then get personal liability cover chucked in - so if you carelessly step into the road and cause a crash and get sued for life changing injuries to someone (mega amount of money) then you need personal liability cover for that - some people say 'i don't have contents insurance because I haven't got anything worth stealing' - I then point out the importance of personal liability cover . c) third party motor insurance - although comp cover seems to be cheaper than third party only these days d) travel insurance for medical costs - to pay for care and getting you back to UK if you have heart attack or car crash etc. So that's my little sermon on insurance

F8 maps are available for most Sync 3 systems. However Ford seem to have some sort of problem with updates for the MY18.5 versions of the Sync h/w. See this thread a number of us have complained to Ford about the situation and they say an update is expected shortly. Probably worth adding yourself to the complaint, they more they get maybe it will prod them into action (i doubt it!) Apparently current vehicles are being delivered with F8 maps...

Have you checked the wiring, plugs etc? Open circuit means it's not getting it's 5v reply back. Try check wiring, for little cuts etc. Follow the loom back and see what you get.

Put nitrogen through the system, get soapy water and put on the connections etc and where it bubbles is where it leaks. You can also push the centre of the air con compressor to make sure that's not dead also, it should spin when you're spinning the centre clutch. Thing about car garages and air con, they do a half day course on how to operate the machine, but don't fully understand the mechanics behind how it compresses the gas to a liquid etc. Most just also like to palm it off and blame the compressor / condenser / no gas. Just be careful new compressors can cost like £200+, so make sure they don't get it wrong.

...or central heating insurance. My father-in-law pays £150/year for that despite my protests. In 25 years of me not paying that, I have a potential £3750, more than enough to pay for the odd breakdown. Though I've had that outlook on 'insurance' all my life! Last year my mum was offered an 'extended warranty' on a kettle that cost £12, her reaction of laughing out loud took the assistant by surprise!

"For anything else, you're better off to put the same amount of money into a savings account and only using it for car repairs when necessary. " same applies to things like Dental care monthly premiums. half the money goes in things like comissions or paying for the staff who administer the scheme to sit around in their offices drinking coffee and talking to eachother. and extended warranties on electrical goods.

Enabling the camera was easy enough, just a check box to enable and that was it. I got the harness from Amazon and it was perfect, good quality and a nice snug fit. I found the hardest thing was removing the ***** boot release button with the LED lights on it. I drilled a hole in it and fitted a camera rather than changing the whole thing. ZIZON 54 Pin Apim Connector Sync 1 Ford Camera Input Harness Cable with RCA Connector for Camera Extension on SYNC 2 or SYNC 3 for Ford Wiring Harness 14 Inches https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G16KK4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4h12CbNZ56YS0

Thank you for this it's exactly what I was after, strange how I couldn't find it when searching YouTube ha ha. Did you have any trouble with enabling the rear cam setting with forscan? Also where did you get the harness with RCA jack? I've had a look on ebay and Amazon and found one but just wanted to check where you got yours. Thanks for the replies 👍

I had 16s on my old mk2 and when I got my 2011 mk3 titanium it had 18s fitted. The handling on corners is a lot better on the mk3 although the turning circle is a lot bigger. You do feel the bumps on the road with the 18s but it is still comfortable. It is still easy driving on a long drive.

I've gone from 16 to 17 and now to 18 on my mk2.5, for what it's worth my experiences are as follows: Running 16" (205/55/16) was comfortable and very cheap. Not excessively soft by any means with a mixed bag of tyres and then I upgraded to the Michelin CrossClimates. What a tyre they are... The grip is nuts! However they were a tad on the wallow-y side for me when brand new. Absorbed everything, mind! But these are currently sat waiting for snow or muddy days.. Too good to sell on imo but I wanted the aesthetics. My old mk2 was written off, enter the mk2.5 with 17 as standard as part of the sport pack. 205 50 17 to be specific, I found these okay, but surprisingly susceptible to tramlining (tyres..) and quite loud when compared to the 16s, I was happy with the looks but the tyre availability or lack of was a killer, I ended up with Goodyear EfficientGrip on the back (Great rubber, quiet but not cheap!) And in a rush I ran Falken ZE914 up front. The Falkens were WAY heavier and louder than anything before, and I regret those. I did run all 4 Goodies for a bit until two had to be replaced, and I couldn't fault them but ***** hell 205 50 17 is a hard tyre to buy, and seriously not cheap. I looked at dropping back to 16s when I found the I had a slightly warped front left, but 'browsing' I chanced across some DIRT CHEAP 18" Mondeo rims that i couldn't pass up. No tyres, and needed a refurb but all 4 and refurb cost me less than one same style used 17 so I pulled the trigger. Tyre wise, much much more selection for 225 40 18, and a hell of a lot cheaper than I thought. I found a very well rated (quiet) Roadstone Eurovis Sport SU04 listing online cheap and then realized that's actually how cheap they are.. Did slot of reading up here, I like my brands but I also like bargains, and after reading these were worth a punt. Basically a rebadged Nexen N'fera, which in turn is a pattern very very similar ( if not just an old one) used by Michelin some time ago and back then was rated very highly as well, all the same factory and what not so figured why not. At £38 a corner I expected not alot at all, but something to get by on and wow I was wrong. 18 on these is very very nice. Great grip, and surprisingly very quiet, especially more comfortable than my 17s, but with so much more bite. The extra width makes so much difference I couldn't believe it, and overall the 18 come in a shade LIGHTER than my 17s with Falken on, and just over even compared to the Goodies. Overall the ride quality in general is harsher if the roads are bad, but that's to be expected. They don't accelerate as well as a 16, but good lord I'll take them over my 17s any day. As I said, much more grip (dry and wet) than I was anticipating and a surprising quietness to them, but dont take that as gospel, I haven't had a chance to run anything else on the 18s yet, I'm about 9k in on the tyres and about to rotate, and still have over half left up front so it could be a while.. But yeah, 16 is great, and cheap. Very common tyre sizes to boot, 17 are a pain and to me at least, weren't worth it despite looking a lot better overall. I'm sticking with my 18s now though until a bad winter comes in at least, these are great for me and suit both the car and my driving style very well. I dont miss the slightly lesser acceleration to be fair either, it hasn't made too much impact, but I know where it is and isn't present so just adjust gears to suit. Lengthy, but hope that helps someone.

Here you go, the step at around 6m45s can be a bit daunting as you need to give it a good pull! https://youtu.be/2V8PFLSHwD0

Similar issue with my then-new Rover 220 GTi. PAS was leaking from the rack, dealer didn't want to know until it actually failed. I wrote to Rover Group, cc'd the dealer principal and made your point: fix it now for £Not Much or wait until the whole lot gives up. They agreed to fix it. I think you can make a strong case here: if the water pump craps the bed, you might end up needing a new engine. Good luck.

i got 19 with standard supension and its not that bad as people told me it will be , think its all persona prefences

I have factory 18's and factory suspension (which is probably a bit harder than a regular focus) on my ST and I'd argue it's a comfier and quieter than my mk7 Fiesta that had both 15's and 17's fitted. Though I reckon the seats take soften a lot of it. They are really comfy to sit in for long periods.

Ride comfort will be worse on 17s, but it's a very personal preference thing, it's too hard for some people...other people think 18s are comfortable... You'll lose a little MPG but handling should be slightly better. Tyres are quite a bit more expensive on the 17s though. Personally I need a very smooth ride due to health issues, I like 17s but they are too rough riding for me.

A bit of a bump for this useful thread to add I had the same issue with locating my locking hole. Hole was right where it should be above the cat/dpf but no matter what size drill bit I stuck in the hole I couldn't get it to slide in and there was no suggestion that there is a slot. After a bit of swearing and considering the 'Land Rover method' of removing the bolt (stick a ratchet on and flick the engine on and off, but decided against that as its a power button) I managed to locate the two holes for the proper locking tool at that back of the crank. Handily these are about the same size as the pins on a grinder spanner so wedging that against the starter I managed to crack the nut that way.

update on mates car all sorted now was down to a snapped drivre shaft he says this lad picked it up from were it broke down,took it to his little back street work shed lol and costed him £140 all in seems cheap deal

No that model does not have USB the port on it is just a service port, You need the 8M5T-19C112-AN module or later if you want streaming, this model says with USB on the label. A= English, N = version, should be a straight swap, it was for me and think its well worth doing, never used a CD since in my 6cd sony, go over 1000 tracks on memory stick and still room for unlimited number, use any cheap usb lead Add: the module is not specific to the Mondeo i.e. mine was out of a fiesta on fleabay.

The fuel pump locking hole on the mk3 is not really a hole which threw me off. I put the pin in place after rotating the engine loads of times to make sure where I lined it up to kept repeating. I have attached the images of what my locking pins looked like below. Additionally I have attached a bit in the haynes manual about needing to lock the fuel pump if it makes sense to anyone else as this was discussed earlier in the thread about the need for actually locking it. One additional thing that I had to think about, was after removing the 4 motor mount bolts from the block, the motor mount still wouldn't wiggle free. The two sprung studs (arrowed) were holding it on; couple of soft love taps later with a mallet and it came off.

Another big thanks from me @TomsFocus as your guide really helped out and getting my cam/aux belt changed last weekend. Had I have not had the guide I would of probably saved my Saturday and had someone else do it; but as a consolation I got to save money, which was more important. 300 miles on, belt seems good As mine was the mk3 there appeared to be some slight difference but overall was the same. Only thing that was a pain when I went to previously do it was that I couldn't find the flywheel locking pin hole, and after having a read through my haynes manual I found that I had to get a flywheel locking tool. The unfortunate part to this method of locking the flywheel is that the starter motor needs to be removed, which also meant the airbag and battery also had to come out . For anyone that might fumble with getting the starter motor off, there are two bolts you have to remove when your working form the top, and one from the bottom. The two from the top are shown in the attached picture. You just need to pop the cover off the 11mm one. The location is to the left of where the battery is (but on the right hand side of the engine block, when looking at the car head on)