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Together with the wife eighteen years today 🏅

They might be long enough, but I'd rather not drag a slimy, grit covered, diesel hose across the paintwork... I don't sit for ages waiting for the correct side though...there's no law against reversing up to the pump or driving all the way though and then spinning round, only takes an extra 5 seconds and I haven't been told not to so far...

In my job standard meal times and names mean nothing. I just eat when I need to and it is just simply called "scran time" or "refs". [emoji488][emoji39] Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Bet your glad couldn't bare it when it gets hot.

Thermostatic expansion valve.

Private plates attract attention so more likely to draw a traffic cops eye. They're also more memorable, if you spot some dodgy driving without a camera around you're more likely to be able to relay that plate to the police than any old generic 'AK64 FRG' etc...

The Mk 1 and 2 Cortina, MG B and Midget, and numerous other cars of the era, had the filler on the back so you could fill up from either side with no bother and no need to remember which side your filler was located. No doubt this useful feature, like many others, fell victim to 'elf n' safety at some point😀 Or maybe it was just the general trend towards hatchback rear ends.

hey VW traitor, good to see you again! 😉 Loving the mondeo, it's very refined and comfortable compared to the Focus. Only downside ive found so far is that its a bit thirsty 😐 but do get a smile on my face when i boot it every once in a while! how's the golf doing? no not on FB or insta sadly, and i feel old for saying that, maybe i should get insta. I deleted my fb a while back, dont regret it though.

New set of PS4’s for the rears due to a puncture and getting close to limit should keep the rear in check more now And bless it hit 66k

More ***** happening. Brake siezed last night. Fun times. I've pulled it apart cleaned up and reassembled. She's good to go again. But it will inevitably happen again. So I bought a 300 mm brake upgrade

What's the thinking behind private plates not being stolen? I can't see the logic in it, a plate is a plate. If they are going to clone a car then it really doesn't matter what the VRM is as long as it matches the car they have chosen to put it on. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The police have a few theories, mainly the plates get used for transporting stolen cars as the thieves know that you’ve taxed and insured it so ANPR won’t ping. Also for ringing but less likely. The annoying thing is the amount of parking tickets, congestion charge and being pulled over that happens. I sorted it last time by being issued a new reg by DVLA for free. Haven’t seen anything on the last set (diff car) but no doubt I’ll get pulled over loads. Can’t complain as they are doing their job but it’s always tense until they get the crime ref as they don’t know whether you’re the criminal or not.

is the car mk6 or mk6.5? mk6 has indicators in top of headlamps, mk6.5 has indicators in bottom of headlamps. The pic shown above for test is a mk6.5 dash. Mk6 is different style of dash - I do not know if it was lit by LEDs soldered to circuit board or traditional light bulbs. Do you have a dimmer knob for dash illumination. have you tried adjusting it?

No problem just hope you get it sorted in the end and it would be great to hear back if you do fix it for anyone else having the same problems. Here's a video which may shed some more light: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTzDY95aqXg

Well to keep it on topic, how are you liking the Mondeo compared to the Focus? There aren't really any meets through this forum that I've seen. There is the odd show clubstand like FordFair but you've missed that for this year. Are you on Facebook or Instagram? That's where most of the car clubs are these days.

I acquired my Mik2 last Christmas. it became apparent that the A/C didn't work, so I took it off to KwikFit for a regas. Lasted a bit, but soon all the chilled air disappeared. To KwikFits credit, got full refund so not out of pocket. On taking it to my long standing A/C guy, he diagnosed that the condenser radiator was leaking. It didn't look in good condition and they are in such a vulnerable position, got it replaced. However, after a couple of weeks, I again lost all my chilled air. On the ramp, he showed me where the dye had also been leaking out of my compressor. So, onto Ebay, ordered a replacement (£25!), and had it fitted. Now gassed up with a replacement compressor, and new condenser radiator, I'm hoping that's the end if it - I'm due some luck, aren't I? Old compressor, but I cleaned up the green gunk before taking pic!

Good advice Tom, I always drive any car with the A/C permanently on, as even when it's wet & miserable, the humidity benefits of A/C helps to keep the screen clear too.

Ideal, just in time for autumn! Be sure to use it now and then through the winter so it's still good for next years summer!

Hi, I'm afraid I'll disappoint you a bit.. It has never come again since that day, so I suppose it must have had to do with the DPF cleaner, or something else external that affected the car only that day. Has your issue been for a longer time, how frequent is it?

That's my 5 quid ST rear bumper on now. Slowly but surely getting there.

Country people do that alot and they call tea; supper

Thanks for this. I'm very grateful for any advice anyone can give me. I'm going to stick my car in at the end of the month when I get paid. I do wonder how much these things are going to cost, but I still believe the car's worth a bit of TLC. Hopefully I can report back soon. Cheers. Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Check out Crucial as well, they guarantee compatability. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Enter your vrn or vin here and you'll get the definitive answer. I'm pretty sure you don't need to register just for basic data but if you do or may want to in the future just do so as an independent operator and fill the registration request form with any old rubbish. http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=26D53FAD587B945CC31EEB553BE4D729.fcvas504 Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

In my opinion it doesn't really matter what side your filler is on as the majority of fuel hoses are easily long enough to reach to the other side of the car. Many a time I've entered a filling station, fueled the car, queued to pay and still left before others who were there before me waiting for a pump on the 'correct' side *insert 'smug' emoji here* 😄

My opinion on BMWs it's not a good one [emoji23] it seems to be a thing now that people just don't bring me them to work on. I am happy with this. Good to see the car back and running. Hopefully all reliable now. [emoji16]

1119281 it's saying is the gasket, but I think it comes with the thermostat as a kit

Chrome indicator bulbs fitted!

The codes are intended to help, not to frighten! Unfortunately they can often be a bit confusing if there are several, but saving the log file, then deleting them to see what returns and when can narrow problems down. To set up Forscan to log data, you first have to connect to the car. Then click on the graph icon at the side, then on the spikey wheel (set up all gauges) at the bottom. This should display a list of available PIDs (readings) for your car. You select a few to log by clicking on them, then press an arrow button which moves them into another column. Then save. Once set-up, this can be used multiple times. A typical set of PIDS would be APP (accelerator), RPM, MAP (boost pressure), MAF (air flow), DPF_DP. time or km since last regen should also be available if wanted, and quite a few others. Selecting too many can be counter productive, the replay display gets confusing, and logging time accuracy may be compromised as the amount of traffic on the data bus increases. To run a log while driving, first (while parked!) ensure the computer can be securely located, with the cable safely run to it. Check the list of PIDs, then press the start button. It does not matter which display mode (dashboard, scope or table) is used, this can be changed on replay. Then just drive for up to about 30 mins (it can do longer, but navigating in the data gets clumsier with big files), with a full range of engine use from idle to full power & cruising. Stop & park, press the Stop button, then press the save button and save with a suitable name. This data can then be replayed and analysed at leisure. Screenshots, or whole data files can be posted on this site, though you have to change the name of the file to end in .txt in order to upload it here. .I have examples somewhere, but am away from home at the moment, my crib flle with the links is on my desktop 200 miles away!

Depending on the year there are two listings. 03/12/2007 to 09/01/2008 Ford finnis number 1476110 09/01/2008 to 29/07/2011 Ford finnis number 1566316. Just put "Ford" followed by the relevant number into Google search and you should see the relevant parts

Well I went out and measured the battery box, and it looks like a type 100 battery should fit, and there seems to be enough slack in the negative terminal wiring to reach the terminal. That's a nice option to consider when buying a replacement battery...

Big day today suspension upgrade new B8 dampers new ebiach redline springs new front top strut mounts and bearings new adjustable front drop links new rear spring isolator pads and a summit 4 point lower chassis brace also pics of the airtec hotside car feels like its on rails now, tyres are letting it down round corners so need to figure out if I’m getting new alloys or new tyres also the rear needs an arb to keep the back end flat as it shifts round to much

My Mondeo clutch & DMF was £950 all in with VAT. I really doubt an '05 1.6 petrol will have a DMF (euro car parts don't list any flywheels for your setup) Part ex you won't get much. If it's a tidy car, good history and for an 05 it's fairly low mileage get the job done. If you end up going for something else you run a very real risk of buying someone else's problems they didn't want to fix. I've had a MK1 and MK2 Focus, both 1.6 petrol. Looked after they are brilliant. Punch your reg into euro car parts and see what your options are it'll give you an idea of price. Or email a few garages for a quote, it's such a common car it won't be the first Clutch they will have done on a mk 2

My friend recently had his clutch done, same engine as yours, £410 all in. Personally, I don't understand abandoning a car to just buy another one of a similar age/budget that will also go wrong. If you were able to buy a newer, lower mileage then maybe yes, jump ship. The 1.6 petrol is a decent engine, so I would say, if it's been looked after, and has a good service history then get the work done. Just my opinion for what it's worth 🙂

You say your clutch "is starting to go". What exactly do you mean by that, what have the garage told you about it, and why do they think you need a new flywheel? Your description quoted here suggests it's suffering from clutch drag rather than slip which would indicate it's not fully releasing. This could be down to a faulty slave cylinder, which would involve the same amount (and cost) of labour as changing the clutch and/or flywheel, or a problem with the master cylinder or just simply air in the system. What engine is it and what's the mileage? If it's a diesel it will have a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) but I don't think petrols of that age did have, hopefully one of the experts can confirm that or otherwise. DMFs can start to give trouble at high mileages but there's usually some indication, such as rattling when in neutral, to show they're on the way out.

Tricky one when you are strapped for cash, what you need to do is get a quote from a trusted garage and take it from there my gut feeling is this work is about a £1000, what you have to weigh up is what else you can get for that money, if the rest of the car is ok i would spend on it. As for the brake wear its just that a year on makes a difference. i would also query why you have left some jobs so long and if these advisories where on the car why did you buy it, i may ave missed a point here.

Yep, another fan of Brembo disks and pads here. No dust and great braking. There is a reason most of the supercars fit Brembo as standard

The choice of brake discs and pads is very personal. For everyone who is concerned about brake dust ceramic brake pads are a great solution. 2 Years ago I replaced both the front and rear disc brakes on my Focus MK3 1.0 ECOboost. Not because the brakes were worn but because of the enormous amount of brake dust that the original FoMoCo (ATE) brakes produce. Having to clean the wheels litterally every week was a small inconvenience but after a rear caliper became seized because of the massive brake dust buildup I was completely done with it. At the front I converted the 278 mm brakes to 300 mm disc brakes. I installed 300 mm coated Brembo discs combined with Textar Epad ceramic pads. At the rear I installed 271 mm coated Brembo discs combined with ATE ceramic pads. The pictures below are taken this morning. Note that the wheels have not been cleaned for 6 weeks. Most of the dirt on the wheels is just road dirt and no brake dust. 90% of this dirt can easily be rinsed off with just water. Cleaning all wheels littery takes less than 5 minutes. The coated Brembo discs are fully coated with a dark grey coating. Afterwards the brake surface and mating faces of the discs are machined. The biggest advantage of these brake discs is that they do not rust. This looks a lot better than rusty non coated discs. Apart from the drastically reduced amount of brake dust the brake performance of the Brembo discs combined with the ceramic brake pads is also a lot better than than the original brakes. After 2 Years I can say that the discs seem to wear a little bit faster when combined with ceramic pads. However the drastically reduced amount of brake dust and the improved brake performance is well worth the slightly higher wear of the discs.

I think most people use cheap eBay pinstripe. Just clean with alcohol before and ensure both car and tape are warm when applying to ensure the glue takes. Width and colour are personal preference but there’s ample of both through most sellers.

I think most diy’ers have been there and share you pain😠Nowadays I check recheck and re-recheck,however sometimes you convince yourself your right and it doesn’t work out that way, hey ho tomorrow’s another day👍

I've had my 2019 EcoSport for five days. The first four days, each time I plugged my phone (Huawei P30 Pro) in, Android Auto appeared in the navigation bar on the head unit (car stereo) and everything worked great. However today, nothing. Tried both USB ports, two cables, restarting the phone, turning the car on/off etc. The phone starts charging and Android Auto auto-launches on the phone itself but the head unit doesn't show the Android Auto tab along the bottom. The head unit connects to the phone's Bluetooth every time without issues. The phone is running Android 9.0 and I'm using the latest Android Auto app and head unit software etc. Any ideas? EDIT: It appears MTP/Media Transfer Protocol was disabled on the phone and was set to Charging Only. I have no idea what changed that since my drive this morning (when Android Auto last worked fine) - I certainly didn't.

lsetta, many thanks for quick reply. just had another look at crankshaft sensor and realised I had incorrectly fitted it. Engine started on first crank. kind regards Tim

Hi, I also fitted these soon after Preee had done himself, The design of these units later changed where the relays are built in to the LED strip rather than being separate boxs, I can possibly assist you with installation if you can tell me the wires you have available; There will be: positive feed, negative feed, Ignition live sensor feed, and A switch feed for the parking light Positive feed it will dim the DRL when parking light is activated to reduce glare at night

i have a 2019 st line x with exactly the same issue mine sometimes will not go higher than 16 without reverting to back speakers,its had 2 updates at ford dealership ,I have downloaded the latest update of the ford website onto memory stick,and the problem is still there ,luckily I change my cars every 12 months so another 6 months and it will be definitely getting traded in,I think this will be my last ford cant be doing with this,especially when ford say there is no issue with the car,it comes to somethink when they give me a courtesy car ka plus and it had a better stereo.

hi so this weekend i set about replacing the rear top mounts on my mondeo mk3 st220, what a job it was glad i treated myself to a Impact Wrench a week ago made the job easy as well as using fast penatraint fluid which help alot. You never know guys if you want to challenge them yourself i filmed it the best i could https://youtu.be/ekD3Um9nvX4

yeah its getting colder,next means its KIN COLD.

yep its a warning for cold weather, amber is 4c or less, it will go red when it gets to minus

Wiring diagram I knocked up for mine

To be totally legal they should run off a relay that dims them with side lights and turns them off conpletely with headlights on.

If i remember right there are 4 wires , + - Dim and Off , very easy to wire just take a look at my guide for installing them.