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Yes, this is the update that switches logos to the right with a blur effect 👍🏼

The reduced fuel efficiency is the result of the skipped cylinder deactivation. I suspect that in the near future even more trim levels, features and/or engine types will be skipped. The Fiesta and Focus ST for example seriously affect the average emission targets that needs to be met. I would not be surprised if the Fiesta and Focus ST disappear within the next Year. Ford officially announced that in 2026 100% of its passenger vehicle range in Europe will be zero-emissions capable, all-electric or plug-in hybrid; moving to all-electric by 2030. As a result of this it is completely understandable that the development / further development of Petrol and Diesel engines and mild hybrid versions will be stopped.

I've had 2 x mk2.5 Titanium estates, and neither has had washer fluid warning. I retrofitted a mk2 washer bottle. The level control is a very common part across thousands of cars, but the grommet is hard to get. I finished up paying £15 on ebay far a bottle with level float and a tail of wire fitted. I've also noticed that neither of my 2 x Titaniums had the wiring to the connector on the bottle. I ran 1 x wire through an inner wing hole and screwed an earth (under my coolant reservoir, but it doesn't really matter where) I ran the other wire across the bulkhead, poked a huge needle through the rubber bung with the main cabin wiring (be careful!) followed the side wiring to the blue connector (C111 pin 18 iirc) and tapped it in. I activated the warning light via ELM.

Well done for posting solution, so often, folk just print the problem with no follow up, which then disappears into obscurity. Glad you got it sorted and welcome to the forum...

No, it’s all the right way round on the Mk4 👍🏼

Just appeared over at cyanlabs. Will download and have a look 😁

Hi everyone, im new here. I own a 2.5t Smax 2006. Today the car failed the MOT due to the headlamp levelling not working. The garage said that a new headlamp from Ford will cost £860!! My question is, can i fit a facelift headlight instead as they visually look the same or can i buy 2 halogen headlights and take my xenons out? Thanks in advance Luke

No I've never had the first 19s50 recall.

Hey Just trying to to do this but can’t download the autoinstall file - says it’s deleted or expired or no permissions are you able to upload it here please? Thank you! Edit: just saw you posted a new file in the other topic - thank you!

Brill Thank you! Installed and all my main logos are back, i'm a fan of this update, a much more clean look 😁 Heads up for anyone downloading the above Autoinstall file, im not sure if its onedrive doing it automatically or my own laptop saving the file this way, but when I download it's calling itself 'autoinstall (1).lst' You just need to rename it to remove the (1) and then it works a charm👍

I haven't seen vehicle location in my FordPass app for a while now. (iOS 14.4.2 FordPass v3.17.1) I've just installed FordPass Pro to see if that was any better and it showed vehicle location straight away.

Hi welcome

Hi Ben, here's a new link to the autoinstall file for radio logos. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApcYQ_s9MXI-0k6yaPeOcqmdW5g6 Cheers, Col.

The autoinstall files are all different and specific to what you’re installing. I’ve just had a look in my onedrive and the file is gone. Sorry about that, no idea how it got deleted. I’ll upload and link a new file in a wee while. I’m out walking the dogs just now.

In my case after downloading the first part of the update it briefly flashed up a key cycle request but if you ignore that request and wait you should find it will start to download the second part automatically. At least thats what happened in my case and i think i read somewhere in a previous post that it's normal for the second part to auto download. There was a request for a key cycle at the end of the second download which you need to do.

which ford pass app do you use, standard or pro...i use the pro as i find it a bit more reliable..

Love drinking IPA's too. An ice cold bottle on a boring day is perfect.

Very nice. My son is into collecting diecasts too. He has collects hotwheels and tomica diecasts.

Sounds like a problem with the map API causing an error the app can't handle and it crashes. Have you checked for an app update?

Now all folk are doing is showing off LOL 🤣

I used to come across such things with our leased company cars. I usually found out about it because a driver had been told the lease company had ceased dealing with his nominated servicing garage and on querying it with the lease company it invariably turned out that the garage had tried it on with unnecessary work. I generally found lease companies were red hot on that sort of thing, perhaps that's not the case nowadays or maybe it's just MB?

No, me neither. By contrast Toyota have got their average emissions down through their long term use of hybrids, to the extent that they can afford to make the occasional car like the GR Yaris.

When you have charged the battery, the battery monitoring system will notice that the battery is more than 80% charged and the alternator will be instructed to apply less charge to the battery until the charge level falls back to 80%. The stop/start will probably work while the battery is more than 80% charged and then stop working again when the smart charge/battery monitoring system gets the charge down to the required level.

That's all good and well but why should you have to fork out for something just to do what the car should be doing itself. It's not a good solution for those who have either communal park or no off road parking. Our car is parked 70m away from our house but in full view so that's not a practical solution at all. On another note the voltage was up to 12.2v this morning so yesterday's run out in the sun and ticking over for a while seems to have put a bit of life back into it. Shame the same cannot be said for myself 😆

I dont mind that too much. There is loads of crap on my stlx I never wanted but had to have cos STLX had the engine I wanted.

Thanks! I'll do it next week when I have a decent length trip.

That’s the final couple of F9 map packages and the four Navigation Voice packages 👍🏼

my focus was in the dealers yesterday,just for a check, i asked them to check my battery as start /stop has not worked for awhile, was told the battery was just below 80% so s/s would not work, there advice was to get a smart battery charger that reconditions the battery, this would help with s/s and prolong the life of the battery, explaining that the car systems has a constant drain on the battery so it will never be at 100% so a ctek mxs 5 is on order to see if it helps.

The specified idle speed of the 1.0 ECOboost is 860 ± 100 RPM. In your case the 850 RPM is perfectly fine. The idle speed is controlled completely electronically. The throttle plate inside the throttle body has a spring loaded stop screw to adjust the throttle plate but this screw is only intended to prevent the throttle plate from completely closing and to dampen the throttle plate motion when the plate is almost closed. If you really want to change the idle speed the PCM software needs to be modified (custom PCM software).

No invoice. They could’ve claimed for all sorts of things!

Relay 136 under the bonnet.

FORScan does not allow Configuration and Programming to work with either of the two Lite versions for safety reasons at the moment. They take the view that trying to programme via a phone is more more likely to brick a car than doing it with a Laptop. Almost all the Service Functions are available on the Lite versions as is the Diagnostic functions.

Sorry I can't help with the colours but you would expect them to be the same both ends. On the Mk4 I can say that nearly all wires are the same colours at both ends, but thats because all the wires are Black ! When I took apart my tailgate to fit the camera/handel I needed to connect in to a supply, either the ingnition live to the rear wiper or as I thought would be best the switched live to the reverse light. I can tell you that there are 9 wires in the harness in the Mk4 tailgate and every last one of them is Black. In the end I found the wire by sticking a fine needle in to each wire until Identifyed the reverse wire which of course was the last wire I tried 🤨 Good luck with your camera, lets us know how you get on

This is a bit overkill, but as my mk8 St seats don't fold to be a flat floor, ( when folded down you are left with a step), I have completelyremoved the back of the back seats, the base is still in place, then I got some cheap carpet and fitted it in the now flat boot. By putting a stanley knife cut in the correct place in the extra carpet, right above the seat belt anchorage buckles, I can clip the legally required doggy strap in. There are only three bolts in the middle of the back seats, and a single clip either side, simply screw the bolts back in the three holes for safe keeping. Seats wrapped in bubble wrap and stored elsewhere. I believe ford sell a boot leveling plastic false floor thing to level the seat step issue out, but you lose height. I bet you think I'm 'barking'

I forgot to mention that you will also need to enable parking assistance in the central car configuration (CCC on the BCM). If FoCCCus doesn't work you can use Forscan. Just go in to the CCC configuration and read it then look for an option that says parking assistance. Change this to rear only. Then write that back to the BCM and also write to backup (IPC).

Ok, a number of things here. If you have a 2014 car (as per your profile), then you have a MK3. The AsBuilt you copied is from is a MK3.5 (as all Sync3 will be). MK3.5 has a different PDC architecture to the MK3 so needs to be changed in the APIM along with a few other things. 7DO-04-02 **XX The XX should be 01 for just rear sensors. 7D0-01-01 *X** The X should be B for PDC and Reversing Camera or 9 for just rear sensors. 7D0-02-02 **** X*** Above needs to be checked as PDC architecture needs to be C1MCA. Look at the list below and see what it is currently set to, then choose the option that is identical but C1MCA. 0=DS off, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 1=DS off, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present 2=DS off, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU not present 3=DS off, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU present 4=DS off, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 5=DS off, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present 6=DS off, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU not present 7=DS off, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU present 8=DS on, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 9=DS on, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present A=DS on, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU not present B=DS on, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU present C=DS on, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present D=DS on, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present E=DS on, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU not present F=DS on, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU present Enable the Flank Guard 7D0-02-02 *3** **** **** If you attempted to use FoCCCus to read the BCM, it will generate loads of DTCs. This is because when reading the BCM, it temporarily disconnects so all other modules in the car complain by throwing a DTC. Clear all the DTCs and then see if any remain. FoCCCus does work perfectly well on a 2014 car with Sync3. It sounds like FoCCCus has got corrupted somehow. Try uninstalling and then re-installing. My guess is that you are using one of the cheap Chinese GPS antennas that you have installed under the dash for your Sync3. This is the reason you are getting the delayed navigation sometimes. You will probably find there is a GPS DTC on the APIM as well. Many of the cheap GPS do not present the correct resistance to the APIM so it complains. Unfortunately it's luck of the draw on those GPS antennas.

Ok, a number of things here. If you have a 2014 car (as per your profile), then you have a MK3. The AsBuilt you copied is from is a MK3.5 (as all Sync3 will be). MK3.5 has a different PDC architecture to the MK3 so needs to be changed in the APIM along with a few other things. 7DO-04-02 **XX The XX should be 01 for just rear sensors. 7D0-01-01 *X** The X should be B for PDC and Reversing Camera or 9 for just rear sensors. 7D0-02-02 **** X*** Above needs to be checked as PDC architecture needs to be C1MCA. Look at the list below and see what it is currently set to, then choose the option that is identical but C1MCA. 0=DS off, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 1=DS off, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present 2=DS off, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU not present 3=DS off, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU present 4=DS off, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 5=DS off, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present 6=DS off, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU not present 7=DS off, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU present 8=DS on, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present 9=DS on, RSS not present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present A=DS on, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU not present B=DS on, RSS not present, CIMCA, TCU present C=DS on, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU not present D=DS on, RSS present, CGEA 1.3, TCU present E=DS on, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU not present F=DS on, RSS present, CIMCA, TCU present Enable the Flank Guard 7D0-02-02 *3** **** **** If you attempted to use FoCCCus to read the BCM, it will generate loads of DTCs. This is because when reading the BCM, it temporarily disconnects so all other modules in the car complain by throwing a DTC. Clear all the DTCs and then see if any remain. FoCCCus does work perfectly well on a 2014 car with Sync3. It sounds like FoCCCus has got corrupted somehow. Try uninstalling and then re-installing. My guess is that you are using one of the cheap Chinese GPS antennas that you have installed under the dash for your Sync3. This is the reason you are getting the delayed navigation sometimes. You will probably find there is a GPS DTC on the APIM as well. Many of the cheap GPS do not present the correct resistance to the APIM so it complains. Unfortunately it's luck of the draw on those GPS antennas.

I really like these 1:64 scale models of a modified 1974 Nissan Sunny Hakotora which have just arrived and added to my collection. there a nice match to the Hotwheels 1:64 Team Transport sets

Had mine today (AZ) Hate needles with a passion but heyho gotta be done. Rewarding myself with a nice bottle of IPA in the sunshine 🍺

Just in case someone else is interested in this hold NAV + SET buttons for 3-4 seconds which gives you a menu where you can select to unlock or lock the CD . it will ask for the unit's code!

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I've been 'computing' since Windows 3.1 LOL Who knew a reboot could fix stuff...

This one was recommended to me by Spotify; was part of my "Discover Weekly" playlist which they compile for me based on what I've already been listening to. Sounds great on the JL audio sub and C3 speakers in my focus 👍🏻

The customer letter about says what's involved and why. Sort of anyway. Basically there's a stud that can rub on a wiring harness. The first recall was supposed to replace that stud with a bolt but looks like the wrong stud may have been replaced in error on some vehicles . Nothing major but you need it booked in asap for it to be checked .

I recently had to deploy the screwdriver tick as I replaced both my grilles on my focus mk 2 facelift and ended up with a bonnet that would not open back up. My god that's a p*** poor designed lock mechanism.

Ign on for 10 secs press rear foglamp switch 5 times press hazard switch 3 times wait up to 10 secs while watching battery light battery light flashes ign off. it may or may not fix your problem,worth a go though

Focus one now updated: https://www.ford.co.uk/content/dam/guxeu/uk/documents/price-list/cars/PL-All_New_Focus.pdf Ugh, Vignale dropped as already discussed in another thread. TX back as the top of the range now, still have to option everything the Vignale had as standard - adaptive LED (and for some reason only the TX doesn't get LED fogs??), HUD, convenience pack, wireless charging, upgraded stereo...lovely. 😞 crying shame really.