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Ian L

Flip Key

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Hello All.

I am new to these forums so please move this post if it would be more appropriate elsewhere.

Having done a bit of research around this subject I found part of the info I needed in various posts on this site. This post pulls together the info that I used. Note the information may not be relevant to the keyless system

I have recently bought a 59 Zetec Fiesta, which came with 2 keys, a non-flip remote key and a simple non-remote key.

This is how I made a working flip key for £31.02 using the simple non-remote key as a donor for the immobiliser chip. By comparison Ford wanted around £115 for just the parts, plus labour to programme the key to the car and cut it, etc. So probably upwards of £200

The Ford 3 button flip key contains three items that need to be matched to your car:

1) The physical key - Must match the locks. This can be cut by various vendors using either a photo of your key or the 4 digit key code on a black tie wrap if you have it.

2) The immobiliser chip - Must be registered into the cars computer. The chip is housed in a cavity in plastic of the key section of the flip key. In the past it was possible to programme a chip to your car yourself using instructions available online. On Mk7 Fiestas it is no longer possible and instead requires a vendor/Ford to connect a programmer to you car and register the immobiliser chip in the key to the car. The programmer also allows lost keys to be disabled from starting the car. It is (apparently) also possible to obtain immobiliser chips which can be set up as a clone of one of your existing key’s immobiliser chip. This requires a special chip reader and programmer tool. It makes programming simpler since the vendor can make a copy of your key without having access to your car, but it has the disadvantage that if you lose the cloned or copied key you have to disable both from starting the car.

3) The radio remote lock and alarm controller - Must be programmed to the car. The circuit for the remote control is separate from the immobiliser chip and is in the portion of key with 3 buttons on. The button pads press down onto switches on the circuit. This can be easily programmed to the car using the instructions at Mirez.co.uk. See the Radio Frequency Programming Instructions. The part number for the remote portion of the key is Finis 1337641 or 3M5T15K601AB.

Note - You follow these instructions at your own risk. When testing keys have your working remote non-flip key to hand (but not too close) so you can cancel the alarm if required.

Step 1 - Check your simple non-remote key actually starts the car. Make sure you don’t have another key too close confusing the test. If it does work, which it should, then proceed. Remove the immobiliser chip from the simple non-remote key. The chip is already registered to the car. Spilt the key open carefully, using a knife, starting at the key ring end. The key is clipped together around the edge and glued together in the middle via a couple of pillars under the Ford logo. The chip itself is pretty tough but be careful not to damage it. As you can see my key case split/tore around Ford logo.


Step 2 - Carefully cut the chip out of its plastic housing. I trimmed away as much plastic and glue from around the chip as I could before prising it out. I could have cut the plastic up more but I wanted to glue the plastic back together afterwards to make a third non-electronic key (which will be for emergencies only since it will not start the engine to cancel the alarm).


Step 3 - Go to your car and check the chip still works - don’t lose it. Hold the chip near the dismantled key whilst trying to start the engine. The chip will need to be within a couple of inches of the key slot. If the engine starts great, move on to Step 4. If not, oh dear you broke it, Plan B you will need to obtain a flip key section with an immobiliser chip and get it programmed to your car or get a cloned key.

Step 4 - Obtain the remote control portion of the key. Search your local breakers and on Ebay for the part number Finis 1337641 or 3M5T15K601AB. This will most likely turn up a number of either; complete keys with cut metal, complete keys with uncut metal or the remote section only. You only need the remote section so go for whatever is cheapest. Don’t buy a key case only - check the description does NOT say that you will need to transfer your existing electronics into the case. You need the remote control electronics. I paid £15 + £2.50 postage.

Ebay Item

Step 5 - Obtain the key section cut to match your lock WITHOUT the immobiliser chip. I obtained this from.

Car Key Help - HU101T flip key

These guys can provide the key cut to the 4 digit code or from a picture of your key blade. I paid £12.00 + £1.52 1st class postage for the key section only with cutting. If the remote section you bought from ebay was in poor external condition you could consider buying the cut key section plus a new case for the remote section for an additional £5.

Car Key Help - HU101T 3 button replacement remote case with flip key

Other places may also have this product - but the other places I found tended to sell the item complete with chip already fitted for more money (and I assumed already glued together - see below).

Step 6 - When the remote section arrives, programme the remote plus any existing remotes to the car following the instructions linked above. In summary using a working key turn the ignition on (to II) and off four times quickly, remove key, chime will sound, press any button on the remote within 10 seconds, press any button on any other remotes within 10 seconds. When all remotes are done turn on ignition. Check that all you remotes lock and unlock the car.

Step 7 - When the key section arrives note that the plastic part is in two halves that are only clipped together. This section contains the spring and button mechanism. You will need to take the two halves apart to fit the chip. Don’t let it fly apart till you are ready. First check the key fits the locks. If it fits, carefully separate the two halves (indoors) note how the button and spring work the key. Don’t lose the spring it can take a while to find it - don’t ask how I know. Fit the immobiliser chip in the recess at the end of the housing. It goes with the narrow end pointing away from the remote section of the key and with the chamfered off corner visible. It is fairly obvious. Sorry no photo. Then apply glue to the case around the mating bits, away from the key mechanism and where the glue won’t be visible when assembled. There is a long curved tongue groove section and a couple of small clips. I used Araldite precision extra strong. Reassemble ensuring that the spring is twisted in the correct direction to work the key. Hold the halves firmly together and allow the glue to set.

Step 8 Take the two sections


and press them together.


You get a flip key to use and you can relegate the fixed blade remote key to being the spare.

I hope this helps someone.


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I am really annoyed with myself that I forgot to take pictures of the inside of the key section whilst it was apart. Based on the instructions that came with the part to glue the two halves of the key section together (after fitting the chip), I would assume that they are all glued. I suspect opening the key section up to find the problem will be destructive. From your thread I would guess the spring/knob/keyblade arrangement has got twisted out of place inside the key section or the detent has been worn/broken. It might be that if you hold the knob from twisting whilst you move key it will relocate - but I think this is a long shot and would need pliers which would likely mark the knob. If that fails or makes it worse I suggest you could buy a new key section with no chip (as per the link above) and dont bother with getting the blade cut. Break your key section open remove the transponder and the key blade and fit them into the new housing. You might want to check with the vendor first that their key section is compatible with original Ford key blades - but I guess it is. Or just get the blade cut for a few quid extra.

I am beginning to sound like an advert for the vendor I linked but I promise I have no affiliation.


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This thread is now bookmarked and if I get stuck with my car I will be using it in the near future to make myself one of these keys.

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Just bought a 2009 Zetec, great car but didn't come with bluetooth or a flip key.. So I'm trying to DIY! Hence reading this great post. The only thing I wanted clarification on was what to buy?

Do I need to buy a used fiesta flip key, split it open, get the electrics out and stick them into the new key case from the link provided? How do I do this? It doesn't seem to be explained? There seems to be keys on ebay like this one: http://bit.ly/RWeHhp presumably these already have electrics in them and just need opening, cut out and replace the chip with one from my non remote key, and it should be sorted?

I have 2 keys, non flip remote and standard non remote key.

Thanks in advance for all help! Having a blonde moment!


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Thanks for the reply stoney. What about if I wanted to use the non remote key as the sacrifice? What would I need then? Just liking the idea of 2 remote keys that's all!

Thanks again!

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I believe the transponders in a standard Ford key is a dfferent shape to the non flip keys.

Try this one.

I got one and paid an Auto Locksmith to cut, code and programme the key, still far cheaper than Ford.

I use it every day with no problems at all.-


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Thanks for the guide. I managed to turn my non remote key into a flip key.

The hardest part was definitely getting that transponder out of the non remote key. It took a good hour of gradually trimming down the plastic with a knife being careful not to damage the transponder. The plastic is very hard and the transponder appears to have been glued in with super glue at the factory, so there's no simply flipping it out, all you can do is trim down the plastic.

I would only recommend this mod to those with patience and who like a challenge.

Opened Non-Remote Key:

I wedged a screwdriver in the back to open this up, it's mainly held in by the slot in the middle. Put the screwdriver in the side that has the keyring to avoid damaging the transponder.



Real bugger getting this out without damaging it.


Empty Flip Key:

Very hard to get a shot of this as you have to hold the metal part down or the spring will shoot away.


Flip Key with Transponder:

Thankfully it fit first time. I put it in narrow side towards where the blade will go.


Lenny you asked about opening the flip key up to fix the spring. I don't think this is going to be easy. The instruction with the new key section said that it must be glued together after the transponder is fitted otherwise it will come apart. So I guess they are all glued together. You could just wedge something in and use brute force, I don't think any of the latches will break. The problem will be trying to get a new spring that matches what is in there. You could just give the key an extra twist and that should give enough tension on the spring. Or if you totally break it, get a new flip key cut and transfer the transponder.

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hi Ian L I used you guide for flip key

and now have two working flips for my car thanks so much

for your guide. I got the case apart just by sticking screwdriver in the keyring side (ie)

not much glue


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