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Pidu

Guide Fitting Cruise Control Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 And Ford C-Max

730 posts in this topic

I'll have a look for you....

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I'll have a look for you....

Thanks man :)

If its any help, heres picture of the info screen: http://imageshack.us/f/856/on4k.jpg/

Also, heres the "readme" from the cd

1- ( CD-1 )SETUP ids-84.exe
2- copy ids-licance file in to computer
3- see read me of license. before run IDS Licance.exe ,you need close XMLRegistryD.exe in TASKMGR . in doc file have infos and photos .
4- ( DVD-2 )insert Calibration DVD . run dpselect.exe. clict to only '' Calibrations '' and install to it. if cant install,restart to computer .and try cabletion setup again

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Download link : http://depositfiles.com/files/x2vs78h28

Password to extract : what_you_are

Run the patch with software closed.

If you can't download, i'll email to you.

Rich.

Thanks :)

Downloaded it, and installed it, but non of the info changed on the information screen. Is this how it should be, or should there be somesort of expiration date, or is it normal that they are "none" ?

(i didnt try it on the car yeat, the "none" on "days remaining on license" just does not anticipade anything good)

Also, do i need to be complitely offline to use IDS, or is it enough that i just block the connection that firewall asks when the software starts?

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Dont mind that . Try it on car and see can you get to module programming.

Thats all you need. Your software is patched so info screen means nothing.

Let me know.

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Dont mind that . Try it on car and see can you get to module programming.

Thats all you need. Your software is patched so info screen means nothing.

Let me know.

Awesome! That did the trick :)

Do i need to activate it somewhere else, or is it good when i went to the "speed controls" and enabled cruise control from Cluster and PCM ? (Also, when i checked the GEM config it sayd Cruise enabled)

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Hmm, now it goes odd... I made the CC buttons to the radio remote. Since it has 5 buttons also, i just cutted the origian connections to the buttons out, and replaced them whit my resistors.

But, now for some reason the "Set + " button does not work (the GEM test using the rear windows defroster does not beep from it). Ive checked the scematics, and double checked them. The Set + button is specced to 180ohm and measured is 180.1ohms.

All the other buttons work, and the GEM responses when they are ~1% range of the required value... :/

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Fixed it!! And now it works.

I had read the schematocs wrong. The resistors are connected in line, not 1 resistor per button like i first thought.

Many thanks :)

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Hi Carlos,

Can you provide a simple wiring diagram? I am looking to do this, and in all honesty I cannot really read electrical circuit diagrams, however, if you could provide a rather simple diagram that an idiot could follow, that would help me no end!

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Hi Carlos,

Can you provide a simple wiring diagram? I am looking to do this, and in all honesty I cannot really read electrical circuit diagrams, however, if you could provide a rather simple diagram that an idiot could follow, that would help me no end!

The picture thats on the pdf is pretty much the best i can come up whit, (i suck at drawing) but i try to walk you trough it.

Cruisecontrol buttons

So, here you see that the resistors are all lined up, so that when no button is pressed, the current needs to go trough all of the resistors.
When you push the OFF button, the current skips all of the resistors
push the SET+ button, the current goes trough only the 120ohm resistor
push the SET- the current goes trough the 120ohm and the 180ohm resistors
push the RES button, and the current goes trough 120, 180 and the 300ohm resistors
And finaly, when you hit the ON button, the curren goes trough 120,180,300 and 510ohm resistors.

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So in that case you would have a very long wire, with 5 resistors wired in each. Then, out the other end of the resistor, you would solder a wire that then goes to one side of the switch, and then link the other side of the switch to the "on" circuit?

(I know this is a long thread, and I cant remember seeing it!) but is anyone able to point out which coloured wires that we need to wire these into (under the steering cowling?) i.e. on comes from X and off goes to Y...

Finally, do you need a momentary push button? as wouldn't you then break the cruise circuit when it disengages?

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Hi has anybody managed to do the cruise control mod on a Sid 83m control unit with elm config...I get as far as writing new data to control unit and then it says PCM doesn't match chosen firmware?post-48085-138392281021_thumb.jpgpost-48085-13839228313_thumb.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated

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are you trying to rewrite the PCM and/or the firmware of the instrument cluster?

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Hi everyone,

Someone already activated "Cruise Control" on GEM and it don't save there? All other modules i put it enable but not in GEM.

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So in that case you would have a very long wire, with 5 resistors wired in each. Then, out the other end of the resistor, you would solder a wire that then goes to one side of the switch, and then link the other side of the switch to the "on" circuit?

(I know this is a long thread, and I cant remember seeing it!) but is anyone able to point out which coloured wires that we need to wire these into (under the steering cowling?) i.e. on comes from X and off goes to Y...

Finally, do you need a momentary push button? as wouldn't you then break the cruise circuit when it disengages?

Yeap, if we assume that the current comes from the White wire to the first resistor input, the first resistors output goes to second input, second output goes to thrid input and so on. and on the end of the 5th come the brown wire.

Now you connect the off button before the first resistor to the white wire, and to the brown wire

set+ button goes after the first resistor, and to brown wire

set- button goes after the secod button, and brown wire

res goes after third and on goes after fourth,

So, when no button is pressed, the current goes trough all the resistors (i think this is so that the gem knows that the remote is connected)

When you push OFF, it skips all the resistors, and just shorts the 2 wire.

When you push the SET+ button, it connects the 2 wires right after the 1st resistor etc.

If you are planning to use the radio remote, i can give you somesort of how-to, what so solder where.

if you plann use your own buttons, you need those momentary buttons. The CC remote only gives "impulses" to the ECU what to do :)

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I was going to modify my stereo stalk actually! My radio has been replaced with a non standard, so its just sitting there lol...

I was hoping to use the "phone" button as the off button, the + and - as the speed up / down, and then the channel flicking buttons as the res and on buttons?

Is there any particular wires I need to use? I was going to just cut up a network cable and use the wires from within lol...

Appreciate the advice so far Carlos.

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are you trying to rewrite the PCM and/or the firmware of the instrument cluster?

No already activated in gem and hec just need to enable it in the PCM when I'm getting them error messages...

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I was going to modify my stereo stalk actually! My radio has been replaced with a non standard, so its just sitting there lol...

I was hoping to use the "phone" button as the off button, the + and - as the speed up / down, and then the channel flicking buttons as the res and on buttons?

Is there any particular wires I need to use? I was going to just cut up a network cable and use the wires from within lol...

Appreciate the advice so far Carlos.

What kind of radio stalk do you have? (or morelike what kind of stereo). I had the CD6000 whit the Vol Up, Mode, Vol Down buttons on the front, and Seek + / - Rocker on the behind. I made the Vol+ to Set +, Mode to RES, Vol- to SET- and the seek up/down to On/Off.

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I was going to modify my stereo stalk actually! My radio has been replaced with a non standard, so its just sitting there lol...

I was hoping to use the "phone" button as the off button, the + and - as the speed up / down, and then the channel flicking buttons as the res and on buttons?

Is there any particular wires I need to use? I was going to just cut up a network cable and use the wires from within lol...

Appreciate the advice so far Carlos.

Here's super cool pic that i made whit paint! :D

Cruise

You can use the circuit inside the remote, and the buttons on the circuit board (thats what the picture tries to represent).
Just cut the existing button connections, and just solder wires to the button legs, like shown on the picture. The 300ohm resistor is not a "standard" resistor, but you can make 300ohm by soldering 120 & 180 right after each other.

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lol, and now I am more confused still :P

If your diagram is based on the layout of the remote stalk itself, then it will probably make a lot more sense when I get in there!

I need to take the stalk out and take it apart and see what I can do! Perhaps I can stash the resistors in the casing of the remote...

Does anyone have any of these spare resistors? I would be willing to pay a token for them, I just dont want to have to go and buy loads off ebay :p

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Help please.

I have an ST and in previous versions of ELM Config the 2.5 engine was not supported.

In the latest 0.2.11c it is

Now when I go to "Read the firmware from PCM to BIN file" I get an error that says "File frw.dat is missing" It still save a config file that is 1792kb in size.

I then go to the configuration page and according to the guide I am using, the settings from the PCM are pre-filled on this screen. They are not on mine.

Could this be because my ELM does not run at 500000?

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Its quite possible that this is the reason your device doesnt work.

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Can anyone recommend an ELM that runs at 500000 please?

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Having re read the picture it makes more sense now lol, I was reading it back to front for a start! so by removing the board from the stalk, I can then desolder the existing wires, and wire in a brown wire to each of the switches, and wire that to the brown steering column wire. Then for the rest of the wires, I need to daisy chain each of these wires in turn with the appropriate resistor, then the next wire to the next one, then it should be fine?

I just need the resistors now and then I can get on with it... Ebay here I come, or if anyone here is willing to sell any, then let me know :)

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