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#16 Boydo15

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 03:55 PM

Fantastic, I do love a sleeper!



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#17 stevegtuk

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 06:49 PM

Just out of interest FOCA, do you get to benefit from all the work you have done, power and weight wise, or is it more you do it because you can and theres the sense of satisfaction when its done. Do you take it on any track days at all.



#18 FOCA

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 11:41 PM

Just out of interest FOCA, do you get to benefit from all the work you have done, power and weight wise, or is it more you do it because you can and theres the sense of satisfaction when its done. Do you take it on any track days at all.

Thats a good question, The car and the reason for me owning it has changed,  

 

Initially i bought the car to transport equipment, i ran petrol cars (mostly old bangers) and they were always breaking down and i was always fixing them/ spenging mony on them, untill something serious went wrong then i would basically "throw them away", i sometimes did very long runs (100s of miles) and i liked the idea of a modern turbo-diesel, i bought a high milage Vectra TD it was garbage, slow, handled like a tea-trolley, and it broke down big-time, soon after i bought it  

 

I realised i was wasting my money on old bangers - and i should buy a decent, modern turbo diesel.

 

At the time Audis, BMWs Mercs etc were over priced/ over-rated, i had tried the Vectra so that left the Mondeo, the mk1s/2s had a rattly/ underpowered diesel so that left the Mk3 (for that size of car to carry my equipment)

 

I wanted a car that would do 110mph, and 10 seconds to 60, as a minimum, the Mondeo TDDI with its 113Hp was more like 11 secs, but kept in the torque it was not too bad, and the official top speed was 124mph all safely off road, of course

 

So the "high tech" 16 valve, twin cam, turbocharged engine gave "kind of" petrol performace but diesel economy

 

So the decision to buy the Mondeo was based in logic, rather than brand loyalty (even though ive had Sierras, Escorts, Fiestas varios Vans mk1 & mk2 Mondeos etc, ive ownd scores of other marques too)

 

So the idea was to buy a car, run it, keep it, not waste money buying/ fixing/ selling cars

 

I had no plans to modify the car at 1st. (but that was 8 years ago) 

 

The (Mk3 Mondeo estate) car was i bit barge- like with the extra weight in the back (compared to the saloon/ hatch) and this was even worse with the weight of the equipment i needed to carry, i weighd all the equipment, and chose lighter alternatives, left un-nessesary gear, put the heavier stuff in the front, even using the passenger footwell, i rebuilt/ redesigned the equipment i had to carry, using space- age materials, i managed to make it half the weight and twice as powerful, it was later i realized i could do this to the car as well

 

So i ran the car for a couple of years with practically no modifications, the car was "gutlees" below 2k, and ran out of puff about 3 - 3.5k, so it had a narrow power band, it was rubbish off the line and the traction was poor (hence trying to get the payload forward)  but, it was comfortable handled (reasonably) well and could be hustled fairly quickly across country in the right hands (i have some motorsport experience) but you could not call it "fast"

 

I fitted an EGR blanking plate, and while doing it, i realised the extra restriction/ path the inlet/ exhaust had to pass through, and that all the extra junk was no longer nessesary (the EGR valve/ the pipes/ tubes etc)  and i could fit a straight pipe instead (this is when i thought of the EGR delete kit) i can't remember the exact date i fitted it but it was years before anyone else had copied/ fitted one :)  / nicked the idea and taken credit for it :lol: (if you know what i mean)

 

If i have any new ideas / "inventions" i keep them secret now, most of the stuff is pretty well known/ accepted now (though sometimes seemingly not fully accepted in some quarters) - like Solid flywheels/ EGR plates/ delete etc  

 

I always do the breathers on my cars (done it for years- manditory for some motorsport use) there is only a small advantage but it keeps the inlet clean - i dispensed with the catchtank on the Mondeo though (total loss vented breather "system")

 

I gas- flowed/ de-webbed the stock airbox (in a basic way, not the full gas-flowed CAIS it is now)

 

And i disconnected the switch on the clutch,

 

And removed the spare wheel, jack, rubber boot floor, parcel shelf thingy

 

This was to make it less "barge like" and to help it pull better under 2k, and to get rid of useless junk (EGR system) and keep the engine inlet clean (EGR / breather bypass)

 

So i ran it like that for a while  (years) (all this was very "normal"/ conservative for me)

 

It was still a "workhorse"

 

 untill  the DMF packed in  

 

I thought there was no point in putting the same type of DMF in to fail again (i have a bit more low down torque now, that sped its demise)

 

then i put the SMF/ carbon kevlar HD clutch in

 

Thats when i decided to "go to town" on it - the car was quite old by this time, (approx 5/6 yrs)   

 

Before that it was all "low budget" stuff, - the airbox was modified with a file, the EGR delete was made out of old bits of exhaust/ the back box delete was a bit of pipe rescued from a skip,

 

I was experimenting with long pipes/ boost bottles with the turbo (all "pennies")

 

I realized i had to actually "put my hand in my pocket" and spend some money -

 

I bought a racing intercooler  (but it still was'nt "proper fast")

 

I bought and fiffed a DTUK tunig box, once i reset the ecu the car felt much faster i noticed it could easily keep up with "warm hatches" old GTIs etc  

 

I fitted the electronic boost controller because i realized i was wasting my time "messing about" with the extended pipes -

 

it was about this time i started timing the 30-50 50-70 etc, the idea was to set the car up with the (adjustable) tuning box to get the maximum acceleration / minimum setting/ amount of fuel/ stress on the injectors/ fuel pump, i did the same with the boost controller, it was so well set up this way  turning it up a little bit more LOST power on the dyno

 

the tuning box and bosst controller being optomised helps the MPG - the car was 50 kilos lighter then 80 (estate lighter than a saloon/ hatch) now 150kgs lighter  helps too - i get (almost) ST220 acceleration with twice the MPG

 

so it was a bit at a time (only brushed over the exhaust, never mentioned the electric water pump/ AC delete in this post) so the car got a bit faster a step at i time - it did not feel that fast - everything else seemed like it was going backwards :lol:

 

So i did not set out to have the quickest, most radical 2.0L TDDI Mondeo never mind an estate sleeper one with the quickest top- gear acceleration of not just any TDDI, or any Mondeo, but any production car - it just happened by accident, really

 

Ive got a load of prototype parts ive not even fitted yet, i need to get the electric waterpump working better, ive got some more weight- saving plans (another 50kgs- thats getting expensive though)

 

I need to get a limited- slip diff but i might run it at santa pod (it will be running against itself to be officially the quickest Mondeo TDDI (it would probably "walk it" the way it is now anyway, but i would like to beat the stock ST220 time)- its in the same class as RWD Sierra Cosworths (1200kgs or less, 600+Hp))  ive no plans for track days, seems a bit boring, to be honest (after my "proper" motorsport involvement :lol: )               



#19 stevegtuk

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:39 AM

Very nice work :) , theres only one minor flaw with all the power, doing 110mph and 0-60 times.

Around town your resticted to 30 and on the motorway you can only do 70 im sure youd never think of going above the speed limit ;) 

also how daft would you look shooting off like s**t off a shovel at traffic lights next to an old lady in a micra just to get up to 30 then taking your foot off the pedal to stay at the speed :lol:

 

 

A couple of things

You said about all the money you have spent on old bangers and stuff. Havent you just spent loads of money on this car to get it to what it is, which is what you were trying to stop by buying it in the first place.

 

Other than replacing the worn and broken parts, does the cost of all the other parts and mods cost less than the improvements you have made in fuel consumption eg. will you get your money back in saved fuel.

 

Yes you may decide to do santa pod once or twice, but the rest of the time it will be general driving.

 

dont take these comments as arguing, putting you down or anything else, im just having a bit of banter at the beginning then just out of interest after that.



#20 FOCA

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:17 PM

Thank you -  the 0-60 argument etc could be levvelled at any performance car, i don't think there is a car on here that could not break the 70mph speed limit - its not a 200mph supercar

 

When i was choosing a car i wanted a 10 second or quicker 0-60mph, perhaps you misunderstood my post?    

 

If i am pulling onto the motorway (off a slip road etc), or out of a junction i need all the power/ acceleration i can get to stop me being mowed down by little old ladies in Micras! :lol:

 

The lighter weight, low down torque and realatively low gearing makes it quick & "effortless" at legal speeds - its not overgeared like some cars are  

 

Ive had the car for years, its saved me a lot of money - instead of buying a new car every 3 years/ depreciation etc

 

Altogether i have not spent that much money repairing/ modifing/ upgrading the car, probably less than others have spent simply keeping their own standard cars running - its about making the right decisions - ditching the EGR, (so no problems with that any more) diverting the breather (so inlet stays clean, hoses last longer, car is more efficient) ditching the AC (no more problems with refrigerant/ any AC faults/ no more rattly pullys, car is lighter/ less drag faster/ more economical) Ditching the DMF and fitting a SMF/ solid flywheel & stronger, tougher clutch (so no more problems there)

 

And, its got the tougher, more reliable  MTX75 - 5-speed box, and the basic but tough TDDI injectors (not the soft Delphi TDCI ones)- so all the problems associated with mk3 Mondeos do not apply

 

The car is an exellent daily driver, with all that torque its great in traffic (pulls from walking pace/ can leave it in 3rd for junctions etc if i keep it rolling) very practical and discrete + i just put some veg oil in - £1.15 per litre

 

No other car does what it does - i can't imagine the time/ effort and money involved in doing this to another car, the electric waterpump conversion alone was an epic (unfinished)  task, the CAIS took 3 weeks to design & build, etc, etc

 

 Its a start, anyway :lol:      



#21 FOCA

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:49 PM


 

FOCA - I think i have pushed the little GT20 turbo about as far as it can go - i have a fully adjustable boost controller and i seem to have reached a "plateo" where i am increasing the boost but not getting any more power gains, the power drops off at the "top end" - i would like to extend it its a low budjet project and i want to retain the stock injectors, exhaust manifold (i have a second one, with turbo/ actuator etc- which i plan to ceramic coar and/or heatwrap, i have a 8mm ss EGR blanking plate (which i plan to fit the EGT sensor to) and an EGT gauge). With keeping the stock manifold i would probably be stuck with the stock turbine, (its a fixed vane) but would like to fit a larger compressor wheel & housing, but here is the thing- i don't want to significantly increase lag / raise the boost threshhold so im looking for a compressor(+ housing) that will icrease the gas-flow/ top end power without doing that - any comments appriciated



 

Reply from Steelie 600 -
 

It sounds to me like youve reached the limits of the fuel supply, and no amount of forcing more air in will create any morepower. You will most certainly running lean at the top end too. So what I would do is adjust the boost to the point where its the max boost you can run before it levels out. Have you had the ecu mapped at all?? If so is there any more headroom to increase the injectors open phase??


 

Reply from FOCA -
 

Its the 2.0L TDDI 115PS, it already has the biggest injectors available for th, (there is a 2.4TDDI used in transits, taxis etc but i'm told the injectors are smaller on those, i may be able to get the injectors modified to inject more diesel, but i have had mixed reports back about that)
 

I have a Superchips Bluefin remap (on its 3rd revision) previous to that i used a DTUK tuning box, the tuning box was adjustable (on a tiny potentiometer) the setting was adjusted (along with the boost pressure setting) to give the absolute maximum axelleration, without turning it up more than it needs to be. (regardless of the amount of smoke etc)
 

Eventually i made a remote adjuster for the tuning box, its easier to adjust but still under the bonnet, i was going to have it adjustable from the drivers seat, to have "normal" (a high but not OTT setting for going to the shops etc) and "high" absolute maimum power - instead of leaving it on the "MAX" setting all the time
 

I aqquired a secondhand Bluefin Handset and fitted it (taking the tuning box off) although there was more top end power, the bottom end grunt was reduced, Superchips uploaded a revised map for me, the bottom end was a bit better, but still not as good as the tuning box alone, finally, i asked them to go "all out" and not to worry about smoke etc, this was the 3rd map, it was not quite as "gutsy" at really low revs as the tuning box alone but not far off, but with significantly more "top end" power than the tuning box
 

I can run the tuning box with the map as well, it just seems to produce more smoke and no more power


 

When i got the independant dyno run i got two back- to - back runs, (both with the Bluefin rev3, no tuning box) one was at 22psi and the other at 24, (you can see the plots on the graph)


 

I dont do remaps myself, Im 100 miles away from the nearest decent dyno, im not sure which remappers i can trust, so i just went for the Bluefin, its debatable whether i can get significantly more power/ torque than the Bluefin anyway


 

If i can change the compressor to another that flows as much gas as the one i have on now, but at lower boost, it may help lower the charge temp, the turbo outlet is a small diameter, if it was a bit bigger it may help the flow before the turbo starts boosting, helping the pick-up/ low end, i would have to be careful choosing a compressor/ housing so the extra weight of the bigger compressor wheel did not negate these advantages (because of the potentially higher boost threshold/ increased lag) - hence - the reason im looking for expert help

 

I could inject different sorts of fuel in, bypassing the injectors- that could get expensive though



#22 Steelie600

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 03:11 PM

HMMM running those kinda numbers on a stock ish setup is pretty close to the max youre gonna get. Your at the peak of what the standard ecu even with the bluefin is capable of.

 

A bigger compressor isnt going to do much as your already having issues when you wind the smaller turbo right up, so a lower pressure yet higher flow will just result in the same issues. 

 

At this point I think your gonna need to start thinking cams, injectors, proper management system (motec) forged internals (cant remember if they are stock or not).

 

What I would do if I was in your position is get another engine and rebuild it to how you want it (maybe a 2.2??) get the full race engine management, variable vane turbo, bigger injectors etc.



#23 FOCA

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 07:15 PM

Intresting ideas there -

 

The crank, rods pistons and block are very strong (i have the specs somewhere) - there is a chap with a 2.0L TDCI that is running 240+Hp 500+Nm (nitrus/ meth/ water injection) with stock internals

 

The 2.2L is basically a 2.0L with a longer stroke, the Euro4 2.0l TDCI with the electronic actuator is apparently identical to the Euro4 2.2 apart from the longer stroke, larger injectors and allegedly a couple of extra fins on the compressor wheel (unconfirmed)

 

So ultimately although i might get more torque out of the 2.2L, i may not get ver much more power

 

Fords electronic actuator is tied in to the ECU, changing the ECU would be nightmare, all sorts of the car systems would not work, it would be too much hassle + i already have  "stand alone" (works independently from the cars ECU) control of the boost pressure, and i can turn the boost up as much as i like (very difficult to achieve with the VNT) the system is setup for minimal lag, the fixed vane turbo is realatively simple and reliable (no VNT vanes to sieze/ coke up) and i have a spare one (it was cheap)   

 

The 2.2 is restricted in 1st and 2nd,  in a way it already produces too much torque (for a FWD) im trying to increase the power / spread of power/ torque, without increasing the peak torque 

 

Ive already got a mk3 2.2 hatch (decat, EGR done, eibach springs - for now) - the 2.0L estate is a lot quicker

 

I can run the TDDI on 100% SVO (straight vegatable oil) - this is not recommended with TDCIs as the injectors are "soft" - the TDDI is also more reliable (i still run the original pump and injectors)

 

There is a 2.0L FI (forced induction) class in drag racing, having a 2.2 could put it into the "unlimited" class, so instead of competing against 300+Hp FWD Corsas (with tuned Calibra turbo engines) i may be up against 1000+ Hp GTRs (for the sake of a bit more torque) - the 2.0L TDDI is already more powerful than a stock 2.2 anyway       

 

I had planned to fit a 2.2 engine, but im not going to bother now (it could not be the quickest, most radical Mondeo TDDI then!) 

 

I have printout of a remapped "180Hp" 2.2 TDCI, the actual power measured at the wheels = 135Hp my wheel Hp 141

 

Iv a few bits n peices yet to fit on the TDDI, Then i may be starting another (completely different) project :)

 

PS no point in fitting high lift/ duration cams as it may just reduce bottom end power, something i can't afford to do with the relatively narrow powerband of the diesel, as i would still have the limitations of the turbo/ injectors - so may have no advantage, this is more normally associated with NA engines - i recon i can get even more power gains (already 113 to 160) without having to touch the engine internals

 

Well spotted thats its not really heavily modified -including all internal engine components/ inlet and axhaust manifold, turbo etc (just what was nessesary ) 



#24 Steelie600

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 07:28 AM

you do realise that the power figure in a diesel is a useless number dontya??  Power = How fast you hit the wall = top end grunt when flat stick, Torque = how far you take the wall with you = Acceleration/pulling power.

 

If you want a fast accelerating car you need oodles of torque, if you want a fast top speed car you want bags of power. Your mentioning drag racing here aswell. Your also at the realms where a LSD would help get the power down to get off the line. I assume youve got the MTX75 box, so thats plenty strong enough

 

As to the cams if you talk to the company doing then they will give you a custom profile to give the characteristics that you want. Vernier pulleys aswell to make the timing absolutely spot on to where it needs to be (its a few degrees out from factory) will also give big gains.

 

I just dont think your gonna get much more from bolt on bits unless you start playing with the internals. Call me old school, but id rather have the power mechanically and control it electronically than try to tease out every last bhp with bolt ons. If your engine is re-designed to run in a certain power range, its gonna be more efficient, cooler, easier to drive, and have a wider power band



#25 Turvey

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 11:42 AM

 + i just put some veg oil in - £1.15 per litre

 

 

99% of what you're speaking about is going right over my head  :D but I'm loving the fact you're running on cooking oil  B) What % are you using? I used to run a Pajero on 50/50 and reckon it ran smoother/quieter and had a nice smell with it as well  ;)



#26 FOCA

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 02:12 PM

99% of what you're speaking about is going right over my head  :D but I'm loving the fact you're running on cooking oil  B) What % are you using? I used to run a Pajero on 50/50 and reckon it ran smoother/quieter and had a nice smell with it as well  ;)

Fair enough - iv run it for a few years now and once i got the hang of it ive had no problems, in the winter i run 100% diesel and i have found if i run slightly more than 50% diesel/ veg oil mix (taking into account that modern diesel has 5- 7% bio in it) i can run at reasonably low (atmospheric) temps - if the weather gets warm enough i can run 100% veg oil

 

So its all temprature - dependant, if i have added a lot of veg oil because of warm weather and it suddenly turns cold, the fuel could "wax" or solidify - making the car difficult to start - as long as i take this into account (even for the mornings/ coldest time of day) and have not too much veg oil ive been ok

 

i only use new, clean veg oil (Tescos is doing a 10-litre tub for £11.50) the filters seem to stay clean (i could use used stuff but once i factor in the cost of filters etc) - its not a massive saving but it adds up, over the course of a year, and SVO (straight vegatable oil) is a renuable energe source - it gets its power ultimately from the sun, it cannot "run out" (as long as the sun shines) and is sustainable (unlike petrol/ diesel, gas and other "fossil fuels") the plants it is made from release oxegen in daylight and the process of making the veg oil has less impact on the enviroment

 

Effectively, running the car on veg oil makes it "solar powered" (inderictly)

 

Im using it without a second tank or (tank) heaters etc, with these i could run it all year round (i feel the "diesel only" in the winter helps to clean out the system)

 

There was a lot of talk on other forums about people running diesels and adding two-stroke oil (designed for two-stroke petrol engines) some of these people did not even know the 3 basic types of 2-stroke oil (castor-based, semi-synthetec and fully synthetic) and that some of these types cannot be mixed (the 2-stroke engine would require a strip-down/ clean out and rebuilt using the new oil you intended to use)

 

Also, as modern diesel contains 5-7% bio- diesel, how well does the 2- sroke oil (designed for mixing with petrol in a 2-stroke petrol engine) mix with the diiesel/ bio-diesel / veg oil (in my case) in a diesel engine?

 

So i have never added 2-stroke to my diesel, mostly ive filled up with the cheapest/ most convenient diesel i could find, with a bias against supermarkets towards small, independant filling stations for political reasons (i don't want to see the (more of the) independant filling stations go out of business - allowing the supermarkets carte blanche to potentially fix the prices etc )

 

After never using "snake oil" / additives etc for years (many of which contain solvents like kerosine that can eat through seals etc) and only using the cheapest diesel (ocasionally with pure veg oil) i ran half a tank of injector cleaner, brimmed my tank with BP ultimate diesel (wow, its expensive!) and added some redex cetane booster/ injector cleaner for good measure (making it the most expensive tank full ever, in the lifetime of the car!) - for my trip to/ and the dyno run - it ran a bit smoother / i would have been interesting to see if it actually increased the power/ torque figures and by how much (but i did not have time to try different fuels so put the best stuff i could get, just in case and tried different boost pressures instead)

 

Ive got 10 litres of veg oil to stick in today     



#27 Steelie600

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 07:02 PM

V power diesel is much better than BP Ultimate. Refined to a higher standard and is a higher calorific value



#28 FOCA

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 07:24 PM

you do realise that the power figure in a diesel is a useless number dontya??  Power = How fast you hit the wall = top end grunt when flat stick, Torque = how far you take the wall with you = Acceleration/pulling power.

 

If you want a fast accelerating car you need oodles of torque, if you want a fast top speed car you want bags of power. Your mentioning drag racing here aswell. Your also at the realms where a LSD would help get the power down to get off the line. I assume youve got the MTX75 box, so thats plenty strong enough

 

As to the cams if you talk to the company doing then they will give you a custom profile to give the characteristics that you want. Vernier pulleys aswell to make the timing absolutely spot on to where it needs to be (its a few degrees out from factory) will also give big gains.

 

I just dont think your gonna get much more from bolt on bits unless you start playing with the internals. Call me old school, but id rather have the power mechanically and control it electronically than try to tease out every last bhp with bolt ons. If your engine is re-designed to run in a certain power range, its gonna be more efficient, cooler, easier to drive, and have a wider power band

Tottally agree with the LSD, i use a MTX75 - 5 speed box, and have no form of traction control, - An RS (Focus) mk1 uses the same 'box, and has an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff from quaife - its expesive to buy, could be expensive to fit, and may be hard to track one down secondhand (i would imagine they are quite rare) but one will fit straight on an MTX75 box, i don't think they need electronic gubbins/ ecus ect to work, and are self contained / fully mechanical (as far as i am aware) (you can get them for the MMT6 too)  - i think ive already written about this in the "trans" part of this (build) thread - it could put more stress on the g-box/ clutch etc, especially with the amount of torque and the de-restricted lower gears - if it was purely a drag strip car (not for the road) i would just get the diff welded up (a kind of "diff lock")

 

Vernier pullys and performance cams are not available and the stock cams would have to be modified, the pullys, custom made (expensive).   The problem with changing the cam profile (more lift and or more duration) is i may lose bottom- end power and the strong but heavy crank/ rods pistons etc nessesary for the high compression of a diesel engine prevents high revs, and there is a limit to how fast  the diesel combustion process can take, these things (and the torque peaking at relatively low revs/ dropping off at gigher revs) mean the diesel can never rev as high as a petrol engine 

 

So without losing any bottom end power, there is probably not much potential from the cams, as far as the intake is concerned, the turbo can compensate a lot for deficiencies in the inlet cam timing/ duration and restrictions in the intake and too much lift/ duration on the exhaust (overlap) can destroy the bottom end power  

 

so on balance, if someone came to me with the idea of re-profiling the cams or fitting vernier pullies on a turbo - diesel - i would advise against it - if it was an NA petrol - that would be different

 

If i had said to you 25years ago i could boost the power on a diesel Ford from 113Hp to 147Hp with no phisical modifications, and without opening the bonnet, just by plugging a Bluefin handset in to a socket under the dash - you would not have believed it and thought it was a joke, i was mad or B-S ing -  now, the remap has the biggest gain than everything else put together 

thats the way it is now

 

I agree i need a bit more revs- but without compromising the bottom end power - who could do the cams?

 

have you read right through my build thread?



#29 FOCA

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

V power diesel is much better than BP Ultimate. Refined to a higher standard and is a higher calorific value

I don't know if i can even get V power around here, i had to drive a 200 mile round trip to get the car dyno-ed (im in the "sticks") another reason i chose the Bluefin (no remappers for miles)  



#30 Steelie600

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:52 PM

not read it all mate, but ive got the general gist of if.

 

But my opinion is defo that cams and porting to suit the type of power band you require has headway, but like you say its £££££ from then on in.

 

Im pretty confident that with a bit of research and tinkering I could machine some cams and alter the intake, the portings and Valves, and the exhaust I could spread the torque curve out.

 

Take for example the Le-Mans diesel cars, they are peak torque from 1200 rpm right up to 5000 redline, obviously they do have a peak, but massive usable torque all the way through, so it can be done. Its just tickling out the info from the raceteams so you know where to head with it. I think for what your asking of the engine the bolt ons and remap is the best course of action. But if your wanting much more we really should be looking at machining parts, standalone ecu's etc

 

Do you have a straight through exhaust?? or is it just a de-cat that you have?



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