I don't think that it is the battery, but I could easily be wrong.
What would have been nice would have been to get a battery voltage reading, with a DVM, immediately after the failed attempt to start. (I'm guessing that the battery still has voltage....but, that is a guess. If it does still have voltage, and you have an assistant, you may be able to get instantaneous voltage readings across leads and connections, while they attempt to start the car. Or, if the car does the 'not even attempting to start' thing again, you may be able to get voltages then).
My best guess is that the electrics have some problem and that, attempting to start the car has reset things do that the supply to the rest of the car is disconnected (probably some relay supplying power to most of the car dropping out, either because the relay has a problem, or because the wiring to the relay is intermittent).
If it is the battery, it has to be a long way gone, because normally you'd get some pained sounding slow attempt to crank, like a slow motion attempt to invent the wah-wah pedal, before it finally gave way. And you wouldn't necessarily expect it to recover enough to start the car - it is likely to recover a bit, but probably not enough to start the car, without outside assistance (a charger or a jump).
When it failed to start, did you hear, by the way, the starter solenoid operate, or did it just do nothing at all?
Can you put the battery on charge, to see what happens (does it take lots of current, does that current tail off at a reasonable rate - if it tails off very fast, maybe the capacity of the battery is almost zero, and if it never tails off, there may be a dead cell, or something [it would have to be an intermittently dead cell, which is a bit more difficult to imagine, but could happen])?
Do the connections to the battery and to the vehicle body look to be in good condition? Do they look as if they have been recently cleaned and re-greased?
What condition does the battery look to be in - hence or otherwise (as they used to say in exams - maybe there is some evidence in bills???) can you get an estimate of the battery age, and is it a decent brand?
(If it looks like it is the initial Ford-branded battery that it has had from new, it will, by now, be pretty much shot, so you might feel that changing the battery as a first step wouldn't be all that bad, because you are probably going to have to change it soon, anyway. It probably isn't the initial battery, though)
Edited by BOF, 12 December 2013 - 12:09 PM.