Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 hey guys. i recently created a post about having problems with my egr valve. took it to a garage and they said it needed to be replaced, so i had it replaced. Everything was fine until one day i took it up the duel carriageway, and suddenly the glowplug light flashed on and the car lost abit of power, and the turbo de-activated. Since then everytime i start it up in the morning this happens, blinking glowplug light and lack of power (possibly limp mode). I took it to the garage yesterday. i handed over an egr blanking plate and said to them if u think its worth fitting this then go for it. I came back at 4.30pm after work to pick it up, they said the ran a diagnostic test and said the turbo is coming up (which is weird as the test they did a week ago only showed egr valve), and will cost about £750 to replace :(. So now im wondering if i should take it to a diesel garage and have to checked to get a second opinion, or could all this be resolved if i installed the egr plate? (probably not lol). The other weird thing is if i drive the car for a bit, then turn it off and turn it back on, the light goes and the car is fine, its mainly does it first thing in the morning and it stays on for the whole journey. Anyone have any ideas as im pulling my hair out at the moment.. thanks Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Turbo might just need cleaning, but the EGR if you had problems with it, could have dislodged some of the carbon and taken it into the system. I wonder if it may possibly have been recirculated and clogged the turbo? Otherwise, the limp could be as simple as the glow plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 ive ordered some stuff called forte turbo and diesel cleaner. gonna give it a shot. its worth a try i guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Some interesting observations/ facts - 1 - Glowplugs are mainly for starting - a diesel engine will run without glowplugs when warm 2 - The Glowplug light is used as a warning light for more than just glowplugs - it may come on even if the glowplugs are fine 3 - The turbo does not "de activate" when the car goes into limp (home) mode loss of power is not nessisarily the turbo or even turbo-related 4 - Fitting a solid blanking plate can "fix" a leaking or faulty EGR valve - it can't fix other things like a blown turbo, siezed engine etc 5 - "magic cures" like "snake oil" additives rarely work/ or are temporary - you have to get to the root of the problem and fix it, the EGR valve contaminates the inside of the inlet manifold, this needs to be removed and cleaned properly - spraying "scoosh" does not work 6 "the turbo" is too vague - " the turbo" is made up of many components - what part of the turbo is faulty?(compressor/ turbine/ bearing/ vnt/ actuator etc )/ how is it faulty ( too much boost to little boost no boost/ )? "saying the turbo came up" is like saying the engine or the car is faulty - too vague - eg - some car owners have bought a refurbed or new cartridge (compressor, bearing and turbine assembly) when their VNT is at fault, and their old cartridge was fine all along, and they thought they were buying a "new turbo" 7 - limp home mode is the ECU protecting the engine from damage - for example, when the VNT is faulty/ sticking and too much boost is produced under heavy load (high speed/ accelerating hard/ uphill etc) switching the igntion off/on can reset this 8 - You can buy a secondhand manifold/ turbo (complete assembly) from about £100-£200 (electronic actuator ones tend to be more expensive) online of from a breakers, a reasonably competent DIY mechanic could fit it, you dont need to spend £750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I have seen contradicting information on point one of FOCA's comments. Not to say he isnt right (he is), but I have heard that until an engine is up to temperature, the glowplugs can remain on for some time after starting and it can affect the running. It just depends on what temperature "warm" is considered - this could be 90 degrees which your car may struggle to reach depending on the length of the journey I suppose. The turbo cleaner may help, but you could be just as well served using Mr Muscle (apparently it works wonders) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 yeah thanks guys. the turbo does work. occasionally it has cut off when really putting my foot down and limp mode has activated. so basically it works when i start the engine up if it is warm. if its cold then (starting it up first thing in morning) car will just run in limp mode. turbo also sounds like it vibrates abit when it does work, but it aint too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Fingers crossed cleaning it helps entirely, but I would say the best thing to do is get it on a computer and check the codes again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 yeah i probably will its just i got no time to do it atm. i work 8-5 unless i can get it booked for next saturday i guess. What would u advise? trying to clean it out first? or get it diagnosed again first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyntdci Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 i always thought the glow plugs only stay on for 30 sec's, then after you start the car (once light go out not many ppl do this).. due to how hot they get so quickly....... could be wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 dunno whether thats abit of a stupid question or not lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 i meant my question by the way lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Squirting the spray in is a 10 minute job tops, I do most of my work on my cars during my lunch hour at work :) I would say just give it a clean and see if it helps, if the issue persists, then take it to a doctor :D Martyn, I like you believed that to be the case, but have seen evidence otherwise to suggest that it may well stay on until the engine is up to an acceptable temperature. The light comes on at ignition as a bulb test and whilst it puts the heat into the engine. This gives it enough heat to turn over, then continues to support the engine until it reaches a "suitable temperature" when its no longer needed and that seems to be when it cuts out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyntdci Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 get a second opinion dude..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyntdci Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 spray directly into the turbo...... only in tiny blast's as this will create a engine knock and automatic revving.... i got some valvoline turbo spray for a tenner from euro.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 the stuff i got does into your diesel tank and finds it way to the turbo like that. Easiest process for me to do lol. If it works it works. if it dont well then it was worth a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 not sure thats even possible, as the diesel never gets to the turbo, so worth getting a proper spray as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 i wouldnt know how to get directly into the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 disconnect the air pipe and squirt straight in :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 i wouldnt get no lights come on for doing that would i? like the engine management light? ill try the stuff i already ordered first cos its spose to be pretty affective according to the majority of people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I have seen contradicting information on point one of FOCA's comments. Not to say he isnt right (he is), but I have heard that until an engine is up to temperature, the glowplugs can remain on for some time after starting and it can affect the running. It just depends on what temperature "warm" is considered - this could be 90 degrees which your car may struggle to reach depending on the length of the journey I suppose. The turbo cleaner may help, but you could be just as well served using Mr Muscle (apparently it works wonders) i always thought the glow plugs only stay on for 30 sec's, then after you start the car (once light go out not many ppl do this).. due to how hot they get so quickly....... could be wrong? On older cars the glowplugs only came on before you started the engine - so on these engines, the glowplugs make no difference whatsoever to the way the engine runs once the engine is warm (even slightly warm, never mind fully warmed up) on the mk3 Mondeo, the glowplugs come on for a very short time (say 30 seconds) after the engine is started, and only under certain revs (so if you rev it, they will switch off) - this is mainly for emmissions / to reduce smoke - it does not have a significant effect on the way the car runs when (even slightly) warm obviously the engine will not be fully warmed up after 30 seconds - but the glowplugs have done their main job, helping starting the engine Once the engine is warm, the engine could start and run without glow plugs at all On some other, more modern designs, the glowplugs may be on for (a little bit) longer, but again, not nessesary for the engine to run and more of an "emmisions" thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 good feedback FOCA, as for the light, nah its fine, your only taking the air from outside the filter rather than via it, so it will be fine, as long as you dont go nuts with the spray (short bursts is key) then connect it all up. Just do it on a nice warm day when there is no debris, you dont want any cack getting into the system unfiltered, but it should be fine otherwise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 i wouldnt know how to get directly into the turbo disconnect the air pipe and squirt straight in :) I would not recommend that as that is the compressor - it tends to stay clean as it is fed with clean air (so its a waste of time spraying things into it) the bit you need to clean is the VNT mech/ turbine - its on the exhaust side/ in the exhaust manifold - its hard to get to and "scoosh" / "snake oil" cannot normally reach it directly, that is why there was a post about drilling/tapping the exhaust manifold and spraying oven cleaner directly at the VNT mech That is why most of these "miricle cures" are a waste of time - they cannot get to the broblem area directly, some can even damage the engine (eg, melt seals) I would love to say "spray x in here" and "its £4.99, available at most good retailers" - but really, for a coked/ sticking or siezed VNT mech, the entire turbo assembly/ exhaust manifold really needs to come off, stripped down & de-coked, and if there is any wear in the VNT mech, replaced VNT mech (Variable Nozzle Turbo mechanism) - controls/ vectors the exhaust gas flow onto the turbine , it is in the exhaust flow so is prone to getting coked up (the compressor isnt) when it gets coked up it can stick/ sieze - the VNT mech is controlled by the turbo actuator, as the VNT controls the maximum boost and the pickup from low revs, if it sticks it can cause tooo little boost (engine is slow to pick up/ lacking power) or too much boost (ECU triggers limp home mode whem max boost is exeeded) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee-Dogg Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 yeah cheers for all the advice guys, ill book an appointment at the diesel garage for a diagnostic test. if it comes up displaying the same thing (turbo problem) then ill try the cleaner stuff i got. if that dont work then looks like ill be spending big bucks lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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