Houston we have a wheel problem, I repeat, a wheel problem.

[ThePowster]

(sigh)...

Morning Focus Guru's

Got up nice and early this morning, 7am, got everything laid out to change the discs and pads for the first time, got my axel stands ready, brake disc cleaner, all my tools and made a start.

An hour and half later and I still hadn't even got 1 single wheel off   now you see why I don't want to do the rear brake disc conversion from drums

Step 1, remove these stupid metal wheel bolt caps... and I didn't even get past that stage

I tried a screw driver, took some nice chunks out the alloy wheel, I tried mole grips, I tried long nose pliers, an hour in and I could only get 2 off, these just do not want to budge.

So I thought bugger it, I'll leave them on and see if I can undo the wheel nuts, first one worked ok, second one snapped an extension bar reducer thingy, so then I got the wheel nut thing out the boot, I used that and low and behold it bent that too, the whole metal is bent out of shape so I need a new one of those now too.

Luckily I had a second torque wrench, I went and got that and started on a bolt I had managed to get the cap off and the socket just rounded on the wheel nut

At this point I gave up before I broke anything else.

So questions...

1. How on earth do you get these alloy wheel caps off? Mine do not pull off, I have tried everything, I was thinking of dremelling them off or something.

2. How am I going to remove this bolt that rounded off now ?

3. Whats the correct name for the wheel nut removal bar thing in the boot, I'll check evilbay once I know what I am looking for.

Not good huh.... I guess car is off of road now until I get the parts I need to do this job, I guess I'm looking at a new set of wheel nuts too.

There goes this weeks rent money

P.S. if anyone wants any car repairs doing, I offer a reasonable rate

 

 

[yunii]

(sigh)...
Morning Focus Guru's
Got up nice and early this morning, 7am, got everything laid out to change the discs and pads for the first time, got my axel stands ready, brake disc cleaner, all my tools and made a start.
An hour and half later and I still hadn't even got 1 single wheel off   now you see why I don't want to do the rear brake disc conversion from drums
Step 1, remove these stupid metal wheel bolt caps... and I didn't even get past that stage
I tried a screw driver, took some nice chunks out the alloy wheel, I tried mole grips, I tried long nose pliers, an hour in and I could only get 2 off, these just do not want to budge.
So I thought bugger it, I'll leave them on and see if I can undo the wheel nuts, first one worked ok, second one snapped an extension bar reducer thingy, so then I got the wheel nut thing out the boot, I used that and low and behold it bent that too, the whole metal is bent out of shape so I need a new one of those now too.
Luckily I had a second torque wrench, I went and got that and started on a bolt I had managed to get the cap off and the socket just rounded on the wheel nut
At this point I gave up before I broke anything else.
So questions...
1. How on earth do you get these alloy wheel caps off? Mine do not pull off, I have tried everything, I was thinking of dremelling them off or something.
2. How am I going to remove this bolt that rounded off now ?
3. Whats the correct name for the wheel nut removal bar thing in the boot, I'll check evilbay once I know what I am looking for.
Not good huh.... I guess car is off of road now until I get the parts I need to do this job, I guess I'm looking at a new set of wheel nuts too.
There goes this weeks rent money
P.S. if anyone wants any car repairs doing, I offer a reasonable rate
 











 

Always invest in a extendable wheelbrace with socket as with these stock stubby ones we generally slip & round off nut or damage alloy. I would bray socket on then remove the nut. But thats my opinion you judge of your own mind.
Thanks.
Yunii

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[ThePowster]

Cheers Yunii I will have a look for a wheelbrace now :)

Thanks

[JW1982]

Why the h*ll are you trying to remove the stainless steel caps. The stainless steel caps are (a non removeable) part of the wheel nuts. The caps do not have to be removed at all. 

The outside diameter of the stainless steel caps is 19 mm. The socket of the wheel wrench is also 19 mm and is a direct fit to the wheel nuts (including the stainless steel caps).

By removing the stainless steel caps you basically damaged the perfectly fine wheel nuts. These wheel nuts are pretty expensive. Some types of Ford wheel nuts currently cost approximately €12,- a piece.

[ThePowster]

Thanks for the post Wilco.

I thought the caps had to come off to gain access to the nuts? I assumed the caps were just protection for the nuts from rusting or something, no where does it explain what the purpose of this is

I had no idea that these caps should stay on

I have found a set for £11.99 which don't have any caps on:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-x-Replacement-alloy-wheel-nuts-bolts-for-Ford-Cars-M12-x-1-5-19mm-Hex-Taper-/291823490002?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2009|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDCi&hash=item43f20913d2:g:1LYAAOSw-FZXj48G

Anyway I have just had another go at it and found you can fix things with a lump hammer  so armed with that and a small screw driver I managed to get a cap off easy enough by puncturing it in the centre and ripping it off, so I can do the rest now, not that I need to of course.

Still one of the wheel nuts will not budge even with 18st of beef jumping up and down on the end of a ratchet it will still not come off. I have gave it a blast of WD40 and no change but my ratchet is small.

So plan then is this wheel brace thing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Extendable-Wheel-Telescopic-Car-Van-Brace-17-19-21-23mm-Socket-Tyre-Nut-Wrench/262012229501?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dcad1325e2a4142be812d7523fe04622c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D152210176044&_trkparms=pageci%3A4d1f8bab-4e81-11e7-9451-74dbd18062e3%7Cparentrq%3A964da8f615c0aa16e1b975f6fffeb75c%7Ciid%3A1

Some new wheel nuts above and I should be good to go again.

Oh the rounded wheel nut I managed to bang on an 18mm socket or I could put a cap back on and use a 19mm socket so I have some options now.

What a morning...

Scratch the above wheel brace, I went for a 750mm breaker bar and hi-torq 19mm socket just to be on the safe side.

[JW1982]

The stainless steel caps do only have aesthetic purposes.

 

The wheel nuts from your link are for aftermarket wheels that require 60 degree tapered (cone shaped) wheel nuts.

Despite being written in the advertisement these wheel nuts are not suitible for original Ford alloy wheels. I have this type of wheel nut on my aftermarket Anzio wheels and these are not suitible for my original 17 inch Focus MK2.5 wheels. The tapered seat of these nuts is simply too small for the tapered seat of the original Ford wheels.

 

You need the following wheel nut design:

This type of wheel nut (both original or aftermarket) is available in several different versions.

 

Also be aware that Ford has changed the wheel nut design. in 2012 Ford introduced the new Global Wheels and Global Wheel nuts to reduce the different types of wheels and wheel nuts on all Ford models. Global Wheel nuts are not compatible with the old design alloy wheel. When buying wheel nuts you absolutely have to buy the correct type of wheel nuts for the wheels you have. Installing incorrect wheel nuts can result in loosing a wheel.

 

 

[ThePowster]

Thanks again Wilko.

I have emailed the seller and asked if I can cancel the order.

Once that is all done I will be searching for some proper ones then that won't cause me any bother.

[Albert27]

Sorry to hear about this mate - unlucky but yep the caps stay on as said above. I've made plenty of time consuming mistakes.  I've heard to avoid using a torque wrench like a standard ratchet and only use it for the final bit of precise tightening to prolong its life - you don't want to do in another tool!  We have the same wheel nuts (19mm) and I've used breaker bars etc but couldn't get anything to work as good a brute strength with this tool from Halfords, been a great little tool.   

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-4-arm-wrench-wheel-brace

When you do sort this out and have removed all the nuts holding the discs on you'll probably find they are stuck on with rust - have a sledge hammer handy - works a treat.  Normal hammer just won;t cut it. But make sure all the nuts/bolts are undone before you let loose on it! 

I've never used these myself but they're on my list of tools to buy.  You'd need to check whether suitable for 19mm but they may be useful for a rounded one.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pcs/96028.

Hope that helps mate and you get it sorted 

[stef123]

First rule of doing any work on your car, throw those stupid wheel wrench things in the bin! A good quality socket set wouldn't go a miss either - at the very least some odd sockets in the various sizes you will need.

I'd recommend a breaker bar atleast 450mm long 1/2 drive - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Extension-Breaker-Bar-450mm-Long-1-2-Socket-Square-Drive-AK7301-/141612295927?hash=item20f8c026f7:g:U5gAAOSwqu9VDeaH

Or even better a 600mm 1/2 bar - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK730-Breaker-Bar-600mm-1-2inSq-Drive-/390397975830?hash=item5ae5885d16:g:qkAAAOSwGJlZHfhB

both links are only examples and can be had cheaper if you wish. 

[Albert27]

Further to what Stef said above re socket set, this has served me well....http://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/Shop/p~145668~15406-1_2-Inch-Sq.-Dr.-Combination-Socket-Set-41-Piece.html and at a pretty decent price.

Think i had to buy a 27mm socket separately but covers most on the jobs I've done so far.

[TangoDaz]

Hi

if you remove the stainless steel covers on the wheel nuts you need to use an 18mm socket I would recommend using a impact deep socket  as these are stronger and have a single hexagon. 

[TangoDaz]

You can also get deep impact sockets with a plastic cover to protect the alloy wheel thes will need to be 1/2 inche drive to fit the breaker bar that you need to buy as mentioned in previous comments 

[ThePowster]

Thanks a lot for the comments guys

Earlier before I read these I settled on a breaker bar rather than an extended wheel brace and I got the best socket I could find on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002PMJ2LE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00308S5ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both arriving tomorrow so will see if I have any joy with that.

Keep ya posted

[MACH_Chris]

It looks to me like you have the wrong socket there. You need a standard 19mm Hexagonal socket, not a 6 pointed socket (Inverted torx)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9RVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_saApzbQ2W5369 <- you want that instead

heres the two socket types for comparison

[TangoDaz]

I use a socket that you can get from Cromwell Tools the part number is KEN5833082K it has a plastic cover to protect the wheel 

[stef123]

1 hour ago, MACH_Chris said:

It looks to me like you have the wrong socket there. You need a standard 19mm Hexagonal socket, not a 6 pointed socket (Inverted torx)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9RVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_saApzbQ2W5369 <- you want that instead

heres the two socket types for comparison

The socket he has bought is not a E-torx/female torx type, it's a wall drive so it will be fine. 

[Dee_82]

Speaking of those infernal nut caps. Anyone know where more can be obtained?  Damned things might very well be designed to stay on but mine are dropping like flys or making my car sound like santas sleigh

an plus 1 for a breaker bar, they are a god send when you go to get a new tyre and afterwards find  that a 16 year old kid "torqued" your wheel nuts up with a rattle gun.

[Dave1981]

Dont know bout the caps but i replaced all the nuts on my car from my local dealer at £3 a nut!!! It can add up quick if u change all 15! 

But im not impressed with the design. Torqued upto the correct setting with copper slip on the threads and the caps can still twist when i go to remove the wheel but as i found out quickly make sure you use a gd quality socket and it is on the nut properly before you try to turn it.

[Russ]

4 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

Speaking of those infernal nut caps. Anyone know where more can be obtained?  Damned things might very well be designed to stay on but mine are dropping like flys or making my car sound like santas sleigh

an plus 1 for a breaker bar, they are a god send when you go to get a new tyre and afterwards find  that a 16 year old kid "torqued" your wheel nuts up with a rattle gun.

I doubt you'll ever buy the nut covers, personally I bought a full set of 'solid' wheelnuts (16) off 'the Bay of E' for £18

something like these -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-MK2-Replacement-Wheel-Nuts-x-16-Alloy-Wheels-Only-PE1006-/400340308666?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2009&hash=item5d362452ba:g:RdEAAMXQgb1RVf-b

[JW1982]

The stainless steel caps on the original wheel nuts are not a changeable part. If the stainless steel caps are broken or missing you either have to live with it or replace the wheelnuts.

 

[MACH_Chris]

21 hours ago, stef123 said:

The socket he has bought is not a E-torx/female torx type, it's a wall drive so it will be fine. 

Ah my bad, from the picture on the amazon listing I thought it was e-torx

[ThePowster]

15 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

Speaking of those infernal nut caps. Anyone know where more can be obtained?  Damned things might very well be designed to stay on but mine are dropping like flys or making my car sound like santas sleigh

an plus 1 for a breaker bar, they are a god send when you go to get a new tyre and afterwards find  that a 16 year old kid "torqued" your wheel nuts up with a rattle gun.

Dee I am happy to send you my caps once I find time to get this done, should be less than a week and I will have maybe 10-12 caps that have been untouched. If you would like them send me a PM with your address and I will get them in the post asap

13 hours ago, Russ said:

I doubt you'll ever buy the nut covers, personally I bought a full set of 'solid' wheelnuts (16) off 'the Bay of E' for £18

something like these -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-MK2-Replacement-Wheel-Nuts-x-16-Alloy-Wheels-Only-PE1006-/400340308666?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2009&hash=item5d362452ba:g:RdEAAMXQgb1RVf-b

Thanks a lot for this Russ, that was going to be my next question, what set of nuts will actually work. Thanks a lot for the linky there, I will get some ordered today

I do intend to pay and join this forum at some point, it's only fair to support the forum given the amount of help and support I have had, plus this is one of the nicest forums I have ever been in  most you go in people are at each other

£80 left @ bank and I need wheel nuts and rear shoes replacing next, oh and bleed brakes and need to keep um crossed I don't break something else along the way

 

Edit: Just wanted to add, I have just been out with the new socket and breaker bar as I was worried about the socket being right now, so I found the difficult nut that just would not budge with a 400mm extra long torque wrench and me stood on the end of it with 18st of ballast jumping on it  anyway I put the new breaker bar on that's 750mm and give it a slight turn and easy as that it undid I am starting to learn that mechanics can be a wonderful thing but its absolutely paramount to have the right tool for the job otherwise its a pain. Result!

[ThePowster]

Quick update fellas.

New front discs n pads installed and I have been driving around finding a nice stretch of clear road, 30-40mph, medium brake pressure and come to a stop, just to bed the pads in so the pads and discs can become best friends.

Maybe done 80 miles and I have to say this has not fixed my problem, the braking is exactly the same as before and my old pads and discs didn't even look like they needed replacing once I had them off

I know the rear shoes are bad because I am on the last notch on the handbrake but I doubt once replaced they are going to give me significant stopping power that I am needing.

I guess it's process of elimination, new shoes at the rear and bleed brakes and see where we are then and what's left to change that's preventing me from having good braking, oh I got new tyres on too, well in last year I had 4 new uns.

Always sommat

[TangoDaz]

Have you tried to adjust the handbrake?

[TangoDaz]

If you remove the handbrake gaiter you will see the adjustment nut try that first you may be surprised by what difference it makes