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That sounded expensive, but on a 'google', seems it's quite a reasonable replacement... https://crashdata.co.uk/product/f1ct-14b321-rd-ford-c-max-airbag-module-repair-and-reset-0-285-014-136/

Is there a recommended cable for the OBD link to use with Forscan? I am assuming the cheaper bluetooth connectors are not recommended? I am very new to Forscan but am keen to increase my SOC on the new battery to 95%

Think positive, maybe they have been a long term reader and just can't be bothered to login!? 🙄

Cheers Tom, that quote was from Gammers in stow, no one else will touch it lol! It's absolutely mental that to change the belt is literally half the cost of the cars worth after 10 years. Ford have done a number on loyal owners with the ecoboost Re Mazda, that's where my gut is just now, the torque down low on the 2.0 Mazda is a bit anemic. That being said if it's anything like the skyactiv 1.5, first gear is extremely nippy, get it up to 4k and it's no slouch. Trouble is the wife will be driving it and has a strong dislike of the Mazda info system control 🙄 she's used to sync on ford and now everything is compared to it.

Sounds like the ratchet has failed, not repairable as far I'm aware, will just need a replacement belt unit.

There are 3 different 1.6 litre engines for the Focus at that age, standard petrol, turbo petrol or turbo diesel. Do you know which it is? Generally pistons don't bend. Con rods can bend but usually only if water has got into the cylinder. It's usually the valves that are the weakest part and bend or snap. So most of the time you can get away with just replacing the cylinder head (along with head-gasket and cambelt kit) without having to replace the whole engine. It's often quicker to replace the engine, but potentially more expensive if going for a refurbished engine rather than used.

Indeed. Many garages now refuse to fit customer supplied parts for that reason as well.

Must admit that's not the experience I had with Facebook either. Probably had about 100 'friends' and they were all people I'd known from school, college or car forums. I haven't posted on there for years (see below*) but still view it regularly to see people I know progressing with their careers, finally being able to afford property and have kids, and restoring cars and houses etc. Also see interesting facts and pictures about history and culture that I wouldn't necessarily have seen anywhere else. Facebook is what you make of it. If you choose to have a load of fake friends spouting extreme opinions as 'facts' then that's what you'll see, but fortunately it's all customisable, so I rarely see any of that myself. *There haven't been any young'uns on there for a decade or so, it's just full of older people now. The actual young'uns are all on TikTok. And us Millennials trying to hold on to some youth are on Instagram. (Again, Instagram is what you make of it - you choose which people to follow - my feed doesn't look anything like Love Island!) I never did make proper friends easily at school and Facebook hadn't even been invented then. The two close friends I had in primary school faded when we moved up to high school and they had more options. Sadly that coincided with my health issues becoming more restrictive as well. Nowadays, I still feel part of 'the world' through viewing social media, despite having nothing to offer anyone in a real life friendship.

Anyone able to help me please I’ve got a prefacelift 2003. Going to pick up full doors off a facelift 2006 with electric windows and mirrors. This guide shows the difference in the looms from pre facelift to facelift, I can’t see the images though. Is anyone able to give me a hand please. All I want to know is it doable? Will I need a prefacelift loom instead

Hello, I have a 2003 fiesta most basic spec. I am able to pick up a load of fiesta stuff including two full doors off a Fiesta 2006 which has electric windows & mirrors. I’ve seen someone put a whole guide about doing the conversion, however I can’t see any pictures from the guide. In the guide he says the wiring looms of the Pre Facelift & Facelift are different but I’m not able to see the difference due to the images not being available anymore. If anyone is able to give me any more information it would be a great help

I realise thiis post was 8 years ago, but any honts on how to remove the wiring at the bottom? The top switches came away very easily, but I'm struggling wit hthe bottom ones

They could also wait in the pub car park and hold you at knife point for the fob instead. Or break into your house while you're asleep for it. I guess it depends where you live/work/park as to what the risks really are. I never worried about relay theft on my keyless Focus with sleepy fobs.

Also, check for a split in a rubber turbo pipe

Have you checked the intercooler? Also as you have checked and replaced the MAF, have you checked pipework between MAF and throttlebody for leaks, cracks, splits? Would the loss of power be limp home mode?

Have you figured out where was the problem?

They booked my car for TCU replacement and they said that it will not affect the sync module, but they quoted 827 pounds for total replacement with VaT and labour, how do i know that these is a manufacture fault or not? Any suggestions regarding this.

I suspect the rotary dial was not popular because together with a new type of feel with this particular torque converter transmission (and the original TCM or PCM software version) it caused some anxiety and confusion. You def have to have your foot on the brake when you change between R and D - which I think you are supposed to do anyway with all autos... but I used to be able to do more confident 3-point turns on my old 2000s and 1990s cars with less braking in between.

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I have an issue that is eerily similar with a 2008 mk2.5 (1.8 Petrol). Did your radio come with ISO connectors, or did you use a combination of the two to get from quadlock to 16 pin - which is what most Android radios seem to come with. My radio came with no canbus, since it's not needed for steering controls - and it works fine in terms of turning on and off. It also appears to drop to 0 Amps drain when ACC is off (with a plug in fuse reader). However, with it plugged in, there is a noticeable voltage drop overnight - to the point where it won't start after < 2 days. If I unplug the radio, the drain doesn't seem to appear. I bought a cheap replacement loom with a canbus (mainly to get the reversing signal easily) - which also works, but has a constant drain of around 20mA when on - unfortunately the common online trick of cutting power to it won't work as the loom only has Batt+ on it, and relies on the canbus box being present to provide ACC+ to the radio. However, 20mA should not be enough to drain the battery that quickly according to my calculations (more like weeks). The battery is a Yuasa 60Ah, new in November last year when I bought the car - and appears to charge fine - though I have not yet had it tested with a proper machine. I did have a previous Android radio installed which did run it down flat, so it's possible the battery has been compromised, but it does still seem to work perfectly. So my theories are either 1. The battery is bad and a small drain is causing voltage drop too quickly 2. Something else in the car is upset that the radio isn't installed and is keeping the car awake - or waking intermittently to find it's lost friend From my searches so far and common causes: The dash display does go off correctly when locked There is no bluetooth module that I can see (the original radio had phone buttons but they only muted the radio) Unit is set to turn off not sleep - and seemingly does so. I can find no other significant drain (LED USB charger plugged in was adding about 20mA) The main difference between the looms that I can see is that the original (non canbus) one has pins for ILL and for Alarm sense, though I'm not sure the latter is needed and might be part of the issue. While testing for drain, I was able to notice a point where there was >300mA drain while the unit was "off" - but it was not consistent. Plugging in the fuse tester does consistently cause a current draw as the circuit "wakes up", though this drops to 0 again fairly soon. That suggests that something else is waking up (or the unit is taking some draw even when 'off' - Though the circuit involved (Fuse 107) is marked as "Instrument cluster battery supply, on-board diagnostics", so presumably is also powering something else too?. So any thoughts or ideas welcome. Current thoughts are that I might install a switch on the Batt+ line to the unit to turn it off properly and see if that works, though I wonder if it is an external unit that won't change things. Any idea if the alarm sense wire should be left or disconnected, or has no impact? Supplemental question - is there an easy to find reversing signal wire in the front dash? Haynes wiring diagram is not brilliant and I'm not confident I can trace the right wire by colour alone in the main loom. I have an estate so running a wire from the reverse lights to the numberplate light camera I've installed is a pain. The canbus box resolves that issue, but adds the 20mA constant draw (though not if I put a switch in). The Canbus loom has only Batt+ from the quadlock, which it routes to the canbus box, which then provides ACC to the unit, as well as ILL Pic of original loom attached. With it in, and using a plug in current tester in the fuse for Batt+ feed to audio, it drops to 0 when the unit is switched off.

Bought Black one's off Amazon and they didn't fit, so ended up getting them from a Ford dealer.

There are sadly 100's of "One Post Wonders" (OPW's) every month. Why people go to the trouble of registering and posting a question, never to return is a mystery.

Hi All, I am trying to upgrade my screen from the 6.5 Inch to the 8 inch screen. I have a 2018 Fiesta and Bought a 2019 Screen, This screen plugs in but doesn't light up at all. The backlight never comes on, although the buttons at the bottom works. Do I need to replace the Head Unit too at the same time, or do the update from Sync 3.0 to 3.4 for it to work. The Part Numbers for the screen are slightly different but from what I could see, it didn't matter and they were plug and play. H1 vs K1 Any help would be appreciated.

have u got any updates mate really interested

Hi welcome

Hi welcome