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My Mk3 ZS - Audio System

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3 hours ago, WES180 said:

Just sell the car!😉

I'd be looking at some of these before the schematic 

9351707525150.png.983268c046acefce927e95a1fc81e38d.png



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  • ACM (Audio Control Module) is the radio itself. The MK3 audiosystem basically consists of the following parts: *ACM (Audio Control module). *FCDIM (Display). *FCIM (Control panel). *Bl

  • Thanks for the like Lenny, actually you'r probably the man with the answers as I've been reading other threads and you really know your stuff. Sorry I didn't get chance to get back on line any ea

  • OK, so it looks like I'm going to have to answer my own questions 😲😡 After a little exploration I found this comment: "Remove glove box - remove fuse panel cover under glove box (pull o

Posted Images

All looking good here (aside from your technical issues), I’ve enjoyed reading it, again technical issues aside. 

I am not doing an audio install but I will be installing a lightbar behind my grill and bringing an on-off-on switch into the car so the post about the grommet in the firewall was helpful to me. I’m also thinking of using a trip switch fuse rather than an ‘actual’ fuse. The lightbar will be 288W, I just need to figure out what size of fuse to use. 

Have you got to the bottom of your own issue yet?

 

EDIT I just realised I missed page 2 🤪 

1 hour ago, Jonro2009 said:

All looking good here (aside from your technical issues), I’ve enjoyed reading it, again technical issues aside. 

I am not doing an audio install but I will be installing a lightbar behind my grill and bringing an on-off-on switch into the car so the post about the grommet in the firewall was helpful to me. I’m also thinking of using a trip switch fuse rather than an ‘actual’ fuse. The lightbar will be 288W, I just need to figure out what size of fuse to use. 

Have you got to the bottom of your own issue yet?

 

EDIT I just realised I missed page 2 🤪 

IMG_20140806_093452_zpsp1wcw7mn.jpg 

Piggy back fuse adapter fitted inside the engine bay fuse box would probably be easiest, purchase some twin core 15Amp cable from AutoStar shop on eBay then look at the particular light to see what fuse it takes,

The twin core can be return line for the switch, 

Gives you a 12v signal feed to connect on the light:

IMG_20150620_143855_zpszl9hp3lm_edit_143 

Rocker Switch fits on to bridge connection from piggy back to light unit

IMG_20150620_135046_zpsyf9wni7m.jpg 

IMG_20150620_183324_zpspob3wskw_edit_143

All images taken from my 4879 image archive of mk2.5 focus guides 

7 minutes ago, Lenny said:

IMG_20140806_093452_zpsp1wcw7mn.jpg 

Piggy back fuse adapter fitted inside the engine bay fuse box would probably be easiest, purchase some twin core 15Amp cable from AutoStar shop on eBay then look at the particular light to see what fuse it takes,

The twin core can be return line for the switch, 

Gives you a 12v signal feed to connect on the light:

IMG_20150620_143855_zpszl9hp3lm_edit_143 

Thanks @Lenny I am planning to use a relay and wire it up to the main beam. The switch in the car would allow total control, I can have the switch in the central OFF position so that regardless of the main beam the bar remains off, then one of the ON positions would allow me to turn the bar on independently of the main beam and the other position would see the bar coming on with the main beam only. 

I've got a diagram of the way I'm planning to do it but its at home.

@Lenny this is a diagram similar to my plan. Do you think this would work? I plan to use 12AWG wire for the project. I don’t want to derail the original topic so when I do get from the planning stage I will start my own topic, but in principle I think this should work??

 

DF284B04-D92C-4E88-A9E0-362DFE3E6BFC.png

The ‘lights’ in this diagram would be a lightbar.

1 minute ago, Jonro2009 said:

Thanks @Lenny I am planning to use a relay and wire it up to the main beam. The switch in the car would allow total control, I can have the switch in the central OFF position so that regardless of the main beam the bar remains off, then one of the ON positions would allow me to turn the bar on independently of the main beam and the other position would see the bar coming on with the main beam only. 

I've got a diagram of the way I'm planning to do it but its at home.

Cool mate,

Personally I can vision your plan without the diagram being present, you will need two seperate power sources feeding to the 3-way switch, 

Well both power sources can be constant live then fit an "auto on" DRL relay to the high beam positive which would allow you to active the auxiliary light via switch

I won't distract this man's progress thread any further and I look forward to seeing your progress on another thread mate, 

2 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

@Lenny this is a diagram similar to my plan. Do you think this would work? I plan to use 12AWG wire for the project. I don’t want to derail the original topic so when I do get from the planning stage I will start my own topic, but in principle I think this should work??

 

DF284B04-D92C-4E88-A9E0-362DFE3E6BFC.png

The ‘lights’ in this diagram would be a lightbar.

And will have more of a white colour output than a yellow 😉

Going to look great, maybe upgrade high beam to philips off road led 

  • Author

So as I said in my caliper thread, I've been doing bits and bobs on the car today. Whilst I waited for the first coat of caliper paint to dry I set about removing my audio fuse holder and replacing it with my newer one.

New Fuse.jpg

New trip switch fuse holder (30A)

 

Old Fuseholder.jpg

Which is replacing the old 'replace the blown fuse type' of fuse holder (80A - OMG that was overkill for my install)

 

New Fuseholder Wired Up.jpg

New fuse holder wired up.

 

New Fuseholder Installed.jpg

New fuse holder in place, in tripped out position (OFF).

 

Engine Bay needs a clean.jpg

Everything back together and looking stock, admittedly it really needs a ***** good engine clean.

Excellent job done there mate, 

Very easy to reset in seconds; if it ever trips instead of replacing the fuse.

  • Author

Yes and not only the ease of resetting it, it's the correct amperage (well nearly) as the amps got a 25A fuse. Additionally and this perhaps is the biggest reason for doing the swap, If I had to swap that 80A fuse I can bet my life that I would drop something, the fuse, a screw, anything down into the under belly of the engine. Now at least the reset is tool-less and that's far simpler and easier for everyone involved!

  • 1 year later...

I'm about to embark on the same challenge again looking everywhere for a wiring diagram but can not find any. Came across this thread. In your pin diagram you have a 12v ignition pin. Is that not the case? If not why not splice the 12v wire from the lighter/12 volt socket as they are ignition powered. I believe. I could be wrong. I have a 12v relay from rear 12v socket with switches up front for my amps so I may have to use those ☹️

  • 3 years later...
On 3/6/2019 at 4:17 PM, Ubetcha said:

A few more pictures.. really I can't see how it's not a ***** fuse..

 

Wiring5.jpg

Wiring6.jpg

Wiring7.jpg

Wiring2.jpg

Wiring3 - Fuse No79 BCM - Passenger Compartment Fuse Box.jpg

Wiring4 - Fuse No15 RJB - Luggage Compartment Fuse Box.jpg

Hello, did you ever find the problem with no power to the Stereo as I have the exact same problem and and have spent many days trying to figure it out as have checked all fuses but still no power to the radii, all I did was remove the radio and when re installed it have no power at all.

Any help greatly appreciated. 

Regards

James

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