1 minute ago, Tizer said:

O problema de encaixar uma bateria AGM em uma EFB é que a AGM pode ter um ciclo de carregamento mais oneroso, então para obter o máximo benefício, é uma boa ideia alterar o ciclo de carregamento para um AGM.

Não alterá-lo significará apenas que a bateria receberá uma carga como se fosse uma EFB, o que não fará mal nenhum, pode até ser melhor para a longevidade, mas é melhor dar a carga para a qual foi projetada para obter o benefício máximo para o extra que você pagou.

I changed the definition to agm .
but the specifications of this agm battery is that I don't have equals in the forscan program

1 minute ago, Master7 said:

I changed the definition to agm .
but the specifications of this agm battery is that I don't have equals in the forscan program

That is fine, do not worry. If you changed to option '2' the battery will be OK.

I still recommend changing the SOC from 80%, to at least 90%

I know nothing about battery's so can some one explane the diff between  Efb and Agm

6 minutes ago, aot871 said:

I know nothing about battery's so can some one explane the diff between  Efb and Agm

 

EFB ones have Lead Plates like older style car batteries and they can distort when they get hot, which happens when they are getting charged. I believe that they can undergo some chemical changes as well but I will not embarrass myself by pretending I understand that part.

AGM Batteries do not have Lead, so don't suffer the same problems to the same extent and can take a more onerous charge. 

I've set mine to 70ah AGM at 80%SOC set to 80ah you've told the car capacity is around 15% higher than it actually is  this could cause the battery to off gas and reduce service life as instantaneous current to battery could be too high for the battery to cope with safley.

SS for me works within the first mile.Takes a bit longer in winter as you'd expect but still kicks in within around 5 miles. I'd set the battery capacity at correct 70ah and see how you get on.

7 minutes ago, Tizer said:

EFB ones have Lead Plates like older style car batteries and they can distort when they get hot, which happens when they are getting charged. I believe that they can undergo some chemical changes as well but I will not embarrass myself by pretending I understand that part.

AGM Batteries do not have Lead, so don't suffer the same problems to the same extent and can take a more onerous charge. 

AGM means absorbent glass mat and refers to the fine glass fiber separator between the positive and negative plates that helps absorb all the battery acid. AGM Batteries are advanced lead-acid batteries. The main advantage for our use is faster charge acceptance meaning things like SS can work more often and for longer.

38 minutes ago, cjay1 said:

as instantaneous current to battery could be too high

are you suggesting the alternator is going to push to much current in to the battery ?

There is the potential for that as the car uses soc, battery capacity, temperature among other parameters to decide best charge or discharge rate for the battery to achieve target soc. With a trailing throttle the car will charge battery at maximum safe rate even if this takes soc above target rate but will remain below 100% SOC (this can be up to 40-50 amp current for a short period of time before it starts backing off to prevent battery damage)the car needs to know current SOC and correct max capacity. The car will then discharge the battery at a safe rate until target soc is achieved. This is why during operation voltage will fluctuate between 11.8v and 15.2v. the main reason to do this is to reduce co2 emissions and improve mpg.

I'm going to test each option for two weeks, and measure with a multimeter to see the peak when I start the car.

Even I have a soc of 80% with the setting of 80Ah it will never reach the maximum battery of 70 Ah

58 minutes ago, cjay1 said:

There is the potential for that as the car uses soc, battery capacity,

Thank you for the reply. Can I just confirm that you are saying the alternator will potentially be pushing too much current in to the battery, which may cause it harm.

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

Obrigado pela resposta. Posso apenas confirmar que você está dizendo que o alternador potencialmente estará empurrando muita corrente para a bateria, o que pode causar danos.

so is it safer to choose option 70ah?

1 minute ago, Master7 said:

so is it safer to choose option 70ah?

No.

Option 2 is correct.

As I have said your battery will be totally fine.

id go with option one it should give improved performance over original efb and maximise service life. option 2 is unlikely to give any notable benefit over option 1 but battery would probably require replacement sooner. you will already be getting a performance boost from the change to agm set to option 1 do you want to put your hand in your back pocket more than required? go with option 1 first and test to see if it meets your needs. if it does leave it. if not just be aware that changes you make for example to option 2 @ 95%SOC will reduce service life of the battery.

9 minutes ago, cjay1 said:

id ir com a opção um deve dar melhor desempenho em relação ao efb original e maximizar a vida útil. é improvável que a opção 2 ofereça qualquer benefício notável sobre a opção 1, mas a bateria provavelmente exigiria substituição mais cedo. você já estará recebendo um aumento de desempenho da mudança para agm definido para a opção 1 você quer colocar a mão no bolso de trás mais do que o necessário? vá com a opção 1 primeiro e teste para ver se atende às suas necessidades. se deixar. caso contrário, esteja ciente de que as alterações feitas, por exemplo, na opção 2 @ 95% SOC, reduzirão a vida útil da bateria.

the soc will keep 80% .
My doubt is to choose between the most adequate battery capacity.

70ah agm is the best capacity to select for a 70ah agm battery so option 1 is best if performance and service life are both important to you . 

37 minutes ago, sifavid said:

I had to jump start my car yesterday since it wouldn't turn over. Car started perfectly fine after the jump start. However, the car did not hold any charge after driving for a while. My guess is its a dead battery.

Im looking to replace my battery so I did some digging. Some people say that you need to recode once you change the battery and some people say you don't. I could understand the recode if you replace it with a larger battery. So my question to you is, what do you do when you replace the battery and which battery did you replace it with?

If the Fiesta works on the the same platform as the Focus then like for like with battery and no recoding was required on the Mk4 Focus just a straight swap.

Almost a straight swap if replacing with exactly the same spec battery but ether way a BMS reset needs to be completed  when a new battery is installed.

I went with a 096 AGM as it should last longer and can achieve fuel savings as SS will work more often and for longer coding car to new spec battery was easy with forscan. You can install AGM without coding but you wouldn't get the fuel saving from fitting AGM.

On 2/29/2020 at 8:53 PM, Scorpion993 said:

I used Tayna too sometimes! They're very good, selling batteries with max 3-5 month from production date. Just check the compatibility with the MK8, because, for example, the Yuasa battery website gives MK8 compatibility for the Yuasa YBX7100...but...nope ahah. It's shorter than the stock one, I attach you a pic. Fiesta MK8 requires a 195cm battery.

 

By the way, I bought a Fiesta MK8 in september 2018, and battery failed last month using it for long travels everyday. I guess they left the car stationary for months and damaged the battery. So...everything is possible.

Oh my days this has helped me no end. I am having an argument with Ford about my Fiesta ST3 Mk8 which I got in March this year it has been sat on their forecourt since November 2021, I do 8 miles a day every day and not on a weekend and I get low battery warnings I’m telling them I need a new battery after they charged it overnight and I got the same message 3 days later after doing 100 miles in it they are stating it’s because I do low mileage! I’m saying it’s because it’s been sat on their forecourt unused!

had similar issues in a ford galaxy it turned out the battery would only charge for a few minutes after engine switch on then after 20 minutes or so it would discharge to the point where the car on a long journey triggered loads of fault codes, engine rough and features like esp and the radio were disabled to save power this happened towards the end of a 160 mile journey. the garage were adamant the system was working correctly and just need to be driven for longer. i plugged in forscan and went for a drive. forscan showed the system stopped charging after a few mins then began discharging the under charged battery. with this data went back to garage for a 4th time and finally replaced a module and applied a software update that cured the issue.  

12 hours ago, Loopylou74 said:

I get low battery warnings I’m telling them I need a new battery after they charged it overnight and I got the same message

Hi Sarah.

Could you add any more details?

Is the message "system off to save battery, etc" as mentioned earlier in the the thread? (better still, could you post a pic when it happens?).

Any other symptoms such as stop/start failing to operate, car not starting, etc?

Have you been able to check the voltage of the battery with a multimeter? 

It may well be that standing on a forecourt has done the battery no good (one might hope they'd have charged it occasionally😀) but as you will see from this and many other threads on the forum this issue is very common with the so-called" smart" charging systems employed on modern cars which rarely seem to fully charge the battery unless your driving pattern suits the system.

Consequently many of us keep a regular check on battery voltage and charge as necessary. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can any one suggest  a decent  charger  and please let me know why  I should connect the negative  to the car bodywork  and not the battery  terminal 

44 minutes ago, aot871 said:

Can any one suggest  a decent  charger  and please let me know why  I should connect the negative  to the car bodywork  and not the battery  terminal 

There's a detailed explanation on a thread somewhere, but basically connecting directly to the battery negative terminal can bypass the battery monitoring sensor.

Chargers usually recommended by members on here are Ctek MXS 5.0 and Noco Genius 5. The Maypole 7423 also has its advocates and is a cheaper option.

2 hours ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

The Maypole 7423 also has its advocates and is a cheaper option

Any one in mind? 

On 3/1/2020 at 1:33 PM, Scorpion993 said:

From what I read, nope, you have just to reset the BMS  after changing the battery, but you have to do it anyway, either if it's a new-oem battery or a higher one.

Bms usually read automatically voltages, capacity of the battery, and things like that. The important things is to wait 8 hours after you change it/reset bms/ recharge the battery in order to let BMS learn the new situation about the battery. In fact, when I replaced my battery with a new one (100% charged) the first day S&S just didn't work, but the day after...was all fine.

I have noticed that the bms resets when disconnecting the battery, I’ve charged mine several times now and when I look with forscan the bms is on zero. 🤔