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Ford Fiesta Zetec


johnbarry
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I have a 2008 Ford Fiesta Zetec Blue 75 3 door hatchback, that's what's on the log book. Engine size = 1.25 fuel = Petrol

When I search for parts, most state mk 7 etc I have nothing about mk and struggle for exact parts.

At this time I am looking for Wind/rain deflectors for the driver/passenger door.

I find some but they state 5 door not for 3 door or they say mk.

When it's raining the inside steams up,I let the window down and the rain comes in off the roof and I get soaked.

Anyone know where to look or even a better solution.

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2008 was the crossover year which is why you'll struggle finding parts on year alone.  Your car is a very late Mk6, also known as Mk6.5 or Mk6 Facelift.  2002-2008 in years.

3 door doors are longer than 5 door front doors, so you must make sure wind deflectors are for a 3 door model.

Couple of examples below. :smile: 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FIESTA-mk6-3doors-Hatchback-or-ST-2002-2008-2pc-Wind-Deflectors-HEKO-Tinted/171999895029

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wind-Deflectors-for-Ford-Fiesta-MK6-3-Door-Hatchback-2002-08-2-pc-Tinted/112642651957

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If it steams up just because it is raining, I wold check and see if pollen filter has ever been changed, check the air inlet for leaves (under the wipers) and that when you set the vent to demist you get air flow up the windscreen, don't think that deflectors are needed just to clear the windscreen.  Ford sell deflectors, and they should fit if you are desperate for them.

Do you have climate control on that model ?

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Thanks TomsFocus

Great info and links.

Paulkp

It's not so much the windscreen as the door windows all steam up, I have tried the fan settings in different ways.
I have never had this before, but then I usualy have the window down a little to get
circulation. When the window is down the rain water off the roof drowns me and the interior.
I do get a good flow to the windscreen when I demist.
Not sure about climate control, not had the car long, I picked up it having AC makes it a different model and it has AC

I am thinking with a deflector I can lower the window (as I always have) and get circulation and no rain water?

Nice one

John

AC being air condtioner, they use fuel (I have been told) so it's a no no

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O yes I forgot to add

Thanks Stoney871 for sorting the post/thread for me

 

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We have had two 2002-08 Fiestas, 2006 Zetec Climate four door with 1.4TDCI and Air Con, and currently have a 2007 Zetec S three door with 1.6 petrol and climate control, and have never had a problem with condensation in either over a combined 115k.  Also have a Fusion Titanium with same hardware but different body shape, and no problems in that either.  We do have the two outer rotating dash vents pointing at the door windows so that may help.  I do have to clear leaves from the intakes, and when I bought the Zetec S with a "good service history" the pollen filter was 6 years old !  I have seen soaking wet pollen filters causing condensation in some other cars, and that if the recirc is on, condensation occurs.  The outlet for the vent is in the boot, a selection of holes at the rear of the boot floor, under the plastic trim, so make sure they are not blocked.

Good luck....

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Thanks Paul

I have the rotating vents pointed at the doors and are always open, I will check the outlet holes.

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Fuel use by modern aircon is minimal.  It is not there for show. Its purpose is to clear the windows so you can see where you are going. That is why it was invented ( for fighter jets.) Cooling the vehicle is just a beneficial side effect. Charge it up, use it and maybe you might not pull out in front of somebody one gloomy winter's morning. A price worth a few pence a week.

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Thanks tomshepp

I have got some deflectors of TomsFocus link (above) but I will try the aircon.

I will try anything to not pull in front of anyone.

Which brings me to another steaming problem (another topic)

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8 hours ago, johnbarry said:

Thanks tomshepp

I have got some deflectors of TomsFocus link (above) but I will try the aircon.

I will try anything to not pull in front of anyone.

Which brings me to another steaming problem (another topic)

If you've not been using the aircon there is a good chance it won't work - you need to keep using it to keep the seals lubricated, you may need a regass.

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I would reckon it will need regassing.  A winter's morning as your breath fogs the glass is dealt with as follows. Aircon to coldest setting. Dash Vents open (you have a heated windscreen, don't you?) System to recirculate. The moisture condenses on the evaporator and drains off below the car. No new air comes in so it all dries out. Two minutes later or less, all will become clear!

Both my 2000 and 2008 Fords had a very good aircon and I am sure that you will be delighted with the results.

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I only just had the car so not sure of air con performence. From the MOT the car has been standing since 2018 so I bet it does need regassing, I will look into it. The rear heaterd screeen only works on 1 line, I need to look into that (in another thread) Thanks for the how to

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People used to say you could rub bar soap or shaving foam onto windows to stop them steaming up.  I think it's meant for dogging, but if it works, it works! :biggrin: 

Regarding the rear screen, if only one bar works I think that's probably beyond repair.  You can usually fix one or two bars with a conductive pen (looks like shiny tipex) but I doubt it'll work on a screen that's so far gone.  New screen would be expensive but you might be able to find a complete tailgate in the correct colour at a breakers yard which could be a more viable option.

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Thanks Tom

Looking at the lines I think it's possibly gone in a lot of spots.

I will have a look for a tailgate round the breakers, but not sure if it won't have breaks itself.

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2 minutes ago, johnbarry said:

I will have a look for a tailgate round the breakers, but not sure if it won't have breaks itself.

Yes, that is the problem with used parts.  At least you can visually see the faults on the window element so should hopefully be easier to find a good one.

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4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

 You can usually fix one or two bars with a conductive pen (looks like shiny tipex) but I doubt it'll work on a screen that's so far gone.  New screen would be expensive but you might be able to find a complete tailgate in the correct colour at a breakers yard which could be a more viable option.

I mentioned the repair kits with conductive paint on John's other thread, but I agree, doubt they'd work if you have multiple breaks in each bar.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, that is the problem with used parts.  At least you can visually see the faults on the window element so should hopefully be easier to find a good one.

Difficult to describe, but I've had them where there is no discernible break, but it's as if the top layer of the element had been abraded, possibly by something being carried in the boot above parcel shelf level. That would be very difficult to spot.

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I think it's caused by people cleaning the inside of the window with the same scouring pad they're just about to use on the paintwork...  :ermm:

It's also possible that tint film had previously been applied and took half of the element with it when removed. 

I agree it's not a perfect solution, but it's the cheapest and easiest one that I can see.  Unless a roof tile blows down and smashes the window so he can claim a new one on the insurance... :biggrin: 

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1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I agree it's not a perfect solution, but it's the cheapest and easiest one that I can see.  

That stick on screen heater I mentioned on the other thread may not be such a bad idea - pretty cheap anyway. Might even be able to bodge up a repair of the existing screen using bits of it.

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/screen_heater_12_volt

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I never saw the other thread lol!

Can't say I've ever seen that stick on element before either, does look like a good idea!  

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Thanks Roger n Tom

I thought I will take a multimeter with me and see if I can spot no breaks before I buy, tha't if I can find one.

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