5 minutes ago, AntonovAN12 said:

Be aware that these cars had a common problem of rain or screen wash water leaking around or from the screen washer jets. This dripped onto the top of the engine and could fill the spark plug wells with water. If this has ever happened, the plugs may be seized into the head by corrosion. 

If you do remove the plugs, be careful starting the spark plug threads into the aluminium head when refitting. As they are recessed they are difficult to do by feel and easily cross threaded.

A length of rubber tubing pushed over the connector end of the plug is a useful tool for starting the threads by hand.

Which size engine do you have? the 1.4 and 1.6 have timing belt, while the 1.8 and 2.0 have chains. I don't think the 1.4 was ever fitted to the Ghia. If its a belt type it is worth checking the condition of the belt as many have never been changed. 

 

i have been looking around the engine everytime i park it up, nothing around the spark plugs apart from a little spillage i did, i have now ordered a funnel.

The water collects in the recess underneath the plastic cover. You have to remove the plug caps to be able to see if there is any in there.

It is worth checking the invoices to see if the water pump was changed with the timing belt. If they did the pump, they most likely changed the coolant at the same time. The timing belt has to be removed to change the water pump, so it is best to change it while the belt is off.

Many engines use timing chains, not just Toyota. There is no way to convert the Focus engine from belt to chain. The downside of timing chains is that lack of oil changes can cause problems with the hydraulic tensioners. This issue does not affect dry belts as the 1.6 engine has.

2 hours ago, AntonovAN12 said:

The water collects in the recess underneath the plastic cover. You have to remove the plug caps to be able to see if there is any in there.

It is worth checking the invoices to see if the water pump was changed with the timing belt. If they did the pump, they most likely changed the coolant at the same time. The timing belt has to be removed to change the water pump, so it is best to change it while the belt is off.

Many engines use timing chains, not just Toyota. There is no way to convert the Focus engine from belt to chain. The downside of timing chains is that lack of oil changes can cause problems with the hydraulic tensioners. This issue does not affect dry belts as the 1.6 engine has.

i will have a good look through the invoices later.

i really like this car so far, i have only done about 50 miles since getting it few days ago. i will just keep up with the services for now.

ok, so far this is my shopping list:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161370688371?var=460392417266

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184217253535

 

forgot to mention that my air filter has been upgraded to a k+n filter so all i will doing with that is blow it out.

https://parts.vospers.com/genuine-ford-b-max-fiesta-focus-inc-c-max-ka-kuga-galaxy-s-max-mondeo-engine-oil-filter.html

with the fuel filter, mine was the white one but on the description it says its for 1.8 engines so that is why i had to pick this black one unless i can still buy the white one?

As far as I know, there is no removable fuel filter on the Mk2 or any later petrol Focus.

All it has is a mesh strainer on the fuel pump unit inside the tank. This is not considered to be a service item.

If you mean the oil filter, the parts diagram I use for my 1.6 engine shows the same part number.

 

9 minutes ago, AntonovAN12 said:

As far as I know, there is no removable fuel filter on the Mk2 or any later petrol Focus.

All it has is a mesh strainer on the fuel pickup pipe in the tank. This is not considered to be a service item.

If you mean the oil filter, the parts diagram I use for my 1.6 engine shows the same part number.

 

apologies, yes i meant oil filter. do you mean i can use the white one even though it says for 1.8?

hi guys

my oil remover has broke and just wondered what you guys use or should i just get the same one again or are there better ones now?

this is the one i just broke:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255483096274?hash=item3b7bfaacd2:g:ZycAAOSwrIxiVBfO&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAAFBRumxw23BmpueGamcu%2BMeoPawFeFEHzo9XhOVXMU4ElPIlXA38ljo415Qof%2FfNTwJ2%2B%2FoYm%2FyAUXhzLeSL9alf8xacTxnun8UttPFbmRBHv9wqNSHG%2FW0cAbxftN4dcxHfJeNq9Ege%2FswS0bNsaTpeywShkYgjhRDODrIv2j%2FQaUhSYuZFSfDPJl9ix94vNzJZAtPk2%2BLfF8Mpu9fXKcHAwt7882xTQDfMn32hNoOAk%2BxpM2l094pbKakjlCtCN3AVZSxh%2B%2F%2BxkQQeOa7o0Olyn%2F0aMTHstNQQPc8kg94N1vL85jN3eeH6Jr28ns%2Bu0AE0V6nAkSl7W8pVuACMpM%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6SVn4PhYA

I prefer a metal strap type...had mine about 10 years now.

Adjustable Metal Oil Fuel Filter Removal Strap Wrench Steel Tool 60 - 105mm UK | eBay

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I prefer a metal strap type...had mine about 10 years now.

Adjustable Metal Oil Fuel Filter Removal Strap Wrench Steel Tool 60 - 105mm UK | eBay

brilliant! many thanks

just thought i would ask as i had my one for about 10 years and thought maybe there were some better ones nw.

i will get that one you linked.

my shopping list so far:

 

 

[url=https://postimg.cc/DmfVgPVX][img]https://i.postimg.cc/mZCbTm88/service-1.jpg[/img][/url]

 

[url=https://postimg.cc/m1g0gB3w][img]https://i.postimg.cc/5yB1pt6Z/service-2.jpg[/img][/url]

 

[url=https://postimg.cc/XG8RWp5q][img]https://i.postimg.cc/yx4sFRYm/service-3.jpg[/img][/url]

 

you could always go old school and peirce the old with a screwdriver

1 minute ago, Jimpster said:

you could always go old school and peirce the old with a screwdriver

i did that once, was very awkward and oil went all over me 😄 

didnt really want to do that again.

I tried that after being suggested by another forum many years ago.  Terrible idea...  The top of the filter was still seized to the engine, there was oil everywhere, there was no structural integrity left in the filter casing and I obviously drive it to get any more tools or assistance.  Can't say I'd recommend it myself.  

9 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I tried that after being suggested by another forum many years ago.  Terrible idea...  The top of the filter was still seized to the engine, there was oil everywhere, there was no structural integrity left in the filter casing and I obviously drive it to get any more tools or assistance.  Can't say I'd recommend it myself.  

i was actually thinking about doing it when my wrench broke but then remembered how awkward it was.

If you've got good hands you might be able to do it without any tools.  Ideally use something rubber for purchase, pair of washing up gloves works well.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

If you've got good hands you might be able to do it without any tools.  Ideally use something rubber for purchase, pair of washing up gloves works well.

got a new pair of washing up gloves in car already and have ordered the wrench what you linked so i shouldnt have any problems taking the filter off, hopefully.

best thing i ever got was this set for oil filters.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284354587844

and before i got that set i always used one of these..  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313133454911

2 hours ago, andypsp said:

best thing i ever got was this set for oil filters.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284354587844

and before i got that set i always used one of these..  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313133454911

i really do like the first link, especially the case. 

thank you, i will order that too.

9 hours ago, froggy8 said:

i really do like the first link, especially the case. 

thank you, i will order that too.

glad to help, usefull for cars that don`t have much space around the filter to remove them. enjoy 😃

ok guys,

i will be replacing the front brake pads too. 

i replaced them on an older car about 10 years ago and i have just watched a youtube video and they mentioned using anti squeak paste on the back of the brake clipping thingies and using the brake caliper wind back tool, problem is i never did that 10 years ago.

i cant really remember how i managed to fit the new brake pads in, i might have used a screwdriver and widened the caliper that way. i never used the anti squeak paste either.

question is will i need to get the brake caliper wind back tool and squeaky paste?

34 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

will i need to get the brake caliper wind back tool and squeaky paste?

You only need the wind back tool for the rear calipers. It's a good idea to use Ceratec paste on the metal-to-metal rubbing surfaces (not the friction surfaces, obviously).

The way I've retracted the caliper piston is with a 'G'-clamp, positioning the end of the 'G' behind the caliper and allowing the screwed end to go inside the hollow piston.

18 minutes ago, mjt said:

You only need the wind back tool for the rear calipers. It's a good idea to use Ceratec paste on the metal-to-metal rubbing surfaces (not the friction surfaces, obviously).

The way I've retracted the caliper piston is with a 'G'-clamp, positioning the end of the 'G' behind the caliper and allowing the screwed end to go inside the hollow piston.

thank you

i will order the paste you linked and i was thinking about getting this for the caliper:

either this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363957739199?hash=item54bd925ebf:g:t1QAAOSwrTVjByNk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8A1ev4MgkSl%2FezQT1F5JbWXA8GPgfrk0yL5m2oakYDgRJ3CR9bkxwOhSbHWTX5uDRB7I18xIvelHf0g2Ll9bJzz3QhmaPxCgJGRccs4VRVy0s%2FXBS4uJcSFvBlEZV6fwukDRqhZ8uDwiC85iO4w7GuQWNfKlvvsT95rBfzo2s8edlNwpCPFuVs38uN3sauQdgJqooEsqXIMDv%2BSz6mK9KVlra60vEe5odWMmNI5C%2F%2BPxrVcBQfoRdyGDjjecH2Y63KtzaqawwdlnRWb7AkcbUW0XLgSnmd26FBJTnwcNJuZ%2BcGFyvmQqrWz8nQM6mIBkvA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5qYyOHhYA

or this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204044515314?hash=item2f820037f2:g:fmUAAOSwdjFi2YuN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8OfwA0jZvu6MMEt8DTmIzLbFHv3UylKSkO1M3jhr1rPWXpb7%2BFXfqgAvgah5NmVqjuaf9GwJ53asnorIiu2xdgCkVCAsubAoknGfxvl4fnQ5Iqjem0WbPMDprNrWq1M1Ujgldtgzn6lIyaBDdx2QcGG6i%2BSoaRkr31wneWqT48fDkoxqnwvVPmxriw%2FMh6Gf%2FL5EhDFMHrAls4aTRYe8Kl11IlwFObO1FWlEQVtkZcoSXoWgB8zLTUQIo1zKsPb3p7nYVql6R7Cl4BIAWPaGqyJ5oIQXwqhVzBLnr4zyx%2BJQAVLMhg2BpLK0ql5VFCvm9g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8yTiePhYA

reason for 2nd link one is because i have no idea what size for the hole i need.

You seem a little confused (or else I am) about the definition of a wind-back tool. The pistons in the front calipers can be pushed straight back. The pistons in the rear calipers need to be rotated as they're pushed back and they have raised areas on the face that engage with the wind-back tool to rotate them. Your second link looks to be this type of tool although it does appear to have an adaptor plate for pushing the piston straight back which would mean it's suitable for both front and rear. Your first link is a type that only pushes the piston straight back so only suitable for the front.

5 minutes ago, mjt said:

You seem a little confused (or else I am) about the definition of a wind-back tool. The pistons in the front calipers can be pushed straight back. The pistons in the rear calipers need to be rotated as they're pushed back and they have raised areas on the face that engage with the wind-back tool to rotate them. Your second link looks to be this type of tool although it does appear to have an adaptor plate for pushing the piston straight back which would mean it's suitable for both front and rear. Your first link is a type that only pushes the piston straight back so only suitable for the front.

sorry, it could be me as i am very easily confused.

basically i watched this video:

he is replacing the front brake pads and i needed something to help me push the caliper back to put my new pads in.

apologies again.

The guy is using a kit of the type shown in your second link using the adaptor to push the piston straight back. That looks a pretty good buy and if I was likely to be replacing pads I'd seriously consider getting myself one. Sadly, the days of me being physically able to tackle such simple jobs are fast slipping away .