There's no need to keep apologising.

You can just use the old inner pad and a small lever (tiny pry bar) to push the front piston back in before unbolting the caliper. 

Or you can use a clamp directly on the piston, or with the old pad, after unbolting the caliper.  No need for fancy tools for the fronts.

many thanks again guys, much appreciated 🙂 

and i am sorry to hear that mjt 😞 

I haven't watched that video to see if he has done this but I would recommend clamping the hose and putting a Brake Bleed tube on the nipple before pressing the Pads back.

It is so much easier and prevents any potential damage to the Master Cylinder seals, and I would bleed the Brake Fluid at the same time because you have already done half the work involved in a Fluid chsnge.

On 5/27/2022 at 3:05 PM, AntonovAN12 said:

Be aware that these cars had a common problem of rain or screen wash water leaking around or from the screen washer jets. This dripped onto the top of the engine and could fill the spark plug wells with water. If this has ever happened, the plugs may be seized into the head by corrosion. 

If you do remove the plugs, be careful starting the spark plug threads into the aluminium head when refitting. As they are recessed they are difficult to do by feel and easily cross threaded.

A length of rubber tubing pushed over the connector end of the plug is a useful tool for starting the threads by hand.

Which size engine do you have? the 1.4 and 1.6 have timing belts, while the 1.8 and 2.0 have chains. I don't think the 1.4 was ever fitted to the Ghia. If its a belt type it is worth checking the condition of the belt as many have never been changed. 

 

got some bad news 😞 

i changed my spark plugs yesterday with a few other jobs and noticed sparkplug threads was rusty and so is the areas around it. the rust are so fine like powder so all i did was blew it all out before taking the sparkplugs out, being careful not to let the powder/fine rust going in the engine.

how do i get rid of all the rust? can i just squirt some wd40 in there?

water can get in via the scuttle or possibility of leaking core plugs the usual cause of wet or rust around plugs. you can make a deflector if its the scuttle, welch plugs gets a bit more involved

17 minutes ago, Jimpster said:

water can get in via the scuttle or possibility of leaking core plugs the usual cause of wet or rust around plugs. you can make a deflector if its the scuttle, welch plugs gets a bit more involved

i have been checking to see if there is any water where the coil pack is but i never see any.

i was thinking if i can see the water then i can see where its coming from but i have no idea.

my main concern at the moment is how to get rid of the fine rust before it gets any worst then i will make a reflector over the coil pack as you have mentioned.

4 hours ago, Jimpster said:

water can get in via the scuttle or possibility of leaking core plugs the usual cause of wet or rust around plugs. you can make a deflector if its the scuttle, welch plugs gets a bit more involved

hello

would an engine cover is spot on for this problem?

ok, i have just found out from researching this problem and it is an old problem which is the jet washer nozzle. water leaking through its seals.

people are saying to use silicone sealant.

would this do as i have an unopen one in boot?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255738935727?epid=2037915794&hash=item3b8b3a79af:g:J3wAAOSwEWVgG-9z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOPO92G3pPL44%2F4Uu4xBLqDGRx9qVcsEiB8vvnASWjkdPSvNfsAO9cYmzznlFeTZMBriZ%2Bn4iwl16XG7RoDTT7BqHTjEjAhGE0pwxqguE0dnNmq64jgAJpq%2BBasKxhRqmL5ZYP88YN%2FZHW%2Ff9EMKmPXr5LdAmPmVqEY6Ps422R9usCSkZyaeR06IaqcJjCeH4N8YOsb0YPE4YTp%2BhtDzvPk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9qW07HvYA

just been out to car to check and it has been sealed already.

perhaps the previous owner knew of the problem and have sorted it out.

the rust i see, as said before is fine/powder dust and it seems no water has been in there for a long while.

what do you guys think?

give it a good clean and a wipe with an oily rag, see how it goes.

6 minutes ago, Jimpster said:

give it a good clean and a wipe with an oily rag, see how it goes.

it is bit tricky trying to put towel in there.

could i blow them all again then spray with wd40?

If you remove the head cover you might get a few inches closer, at the expense of working right next to oily components and potentially gaining an oil leak if the gasket doesn't sit right when you put the cover back on.

I wouldn't suggest that spraying a bunch of wd40 down the spark plug access holes would be such a good idea, a lot of it would go into the combustion chambers and then possibly seep down past the piston rings to mix with the oil. I'm not certain what effect that might have, but I'd rather not conduct such an experiment if it were me. If it were me I'd also have tried my best to allow as little of the rust to fall in as possible.

I concur with Jimpster that it would be best to find a way (e.g. by removing the cover, or some long stick based solution) to wipe it away with a damp cloth (to bind it to the cloth rather than let it fall into the combustion chamber), using something like oil or wd40, rather water, to provide said dampness.

If it can't just be wiped off, I'd try to carefully apply some sort of rust eating substance, like wd40 or some "rust remover" product, to the threads by, for instance, lightly soaking a bit of cloth in it (if liquid rather than gel) and finding a means of wiping it into the threads. I'd then give it a little time to work (some products are much faster acting than others), the wipe away, then repeat as necessary until it's all gone.

Its not a massive job to remove the cover just go slow and steadiy, there may be online vids to follow. My welch plugs leaked so it was a mechanic job.

thank you guys

i will have a good search on how to remove the cover then i can clean it out properly.

i cant seem to find a video, the only videos i can find is for engine cover which my engine doesnt have.

has anyone used seafoam to clean the sparkplug cavity at all?

 

6 hours ago, froggy8 said:

i cant seem to find a video, the only videos i can find is for engine cover which my engine doesnt have.

This video essentially covers it, though I'll add a few notes below.

Notes:

1. The bracket on the back right corner that's held down on a stud with a nut is actually more of a pain to deal with than shown in the video, at least on my '08 focus. This is because there's a second bolt securing the other end of the bracket, located a few inches down the back of the engine, in an awkward to reach spot due to various pipes and such being in the way. It's the most difficult aspect of the whole task by far.
2. On my focus there's a wire going over the right hand side, possibly going to the bracket just mentioned (I forget), with a zip-tie based clip attaching it to the cover to stop it flapping about. I did not see this present in the video, just some sort of lump on the cover where the clip would be. If you have it like I do, then you need to detach this from the cover. I believe this clip is probably just a plastic plug jammed into a threaded metal ring embedded into the cover (you may see some similar fixings on the cover which I believe are for fitting one of those fancy engine covers some models have). If this is so then you could just prize it out. When I took my valve cover off a while back I was so uncertain about this and afraid of breaking it that I instead opted to jam something thin into the zip-tie bit to undo that instead, but unfortunately I ended up breaking that instead. If you do break this clip, it's really not important, so don't worry too much.
3. If you have a Ti-VCT engine then you'll have to disconnect some additional wiring plugs and unbolt and remove the VCT solenoids (sort of cylindrical aluminium things towards the end with the belts). None of this is covered in the video. I'm just noting it from taking a quick look at my Hayes manual (which may be a useful resource for you to buy yourself).
4. Don't forget the one bolt on the side, as mentioned towards the end of the video (though this is only for non-Ti-VCT engines).
5. You may have to wiggle the cover about a bit to get it out of place. I seem to recall it being a bit fiddly the first time I did it on mine.
6. When putting it back on, to try to avoid creating a leak you need to be a little careful in how you screw it down in order for the rubber gasket to be seated nice and evenly without forming a gap through which oil can leak. Snug all of the bolts down gently, then a bit more, starting with the bolts in the center and then working outwards towards the ends. Do the same (inner to outer) for the final tightening, which would best be done with a torque wrench if you have one to ensure you don't overtighten them.

 

6 hours ago, froggy8 said:

has anyone used seafoam to clean the sparkplug cavity at all?

I'm not familiar with that, sorry.

24 minutes ago, rd457 said:

This video essentially covers it, though I'll add a few notes below.

Notes:

1. The bracket on the back right corner that's held down on a stud with a nut is actually more of a pain to deal with than shown in the video, at least on my '08 focus. This is because there's a second bolt securing the other end of the bracket, located a few inches down the back of the engine, in an awkward to reach spot due to various pipes and such being in the way. It's the most difficult aspect of the whole task by far.
2. On my focus there's a wire going over the right hand side, possibly going to the bracket just mentioned (I forget), with a zip-tie based clip attaching it to the cover to stop it flapping about. I did not see this present in the video, just some sort of lump on the cover where the clip would be. If you have it like I do, then you need to detach this from the cover. I believe this clip is probably just a plastic plug jammed into a threaded metal ring embedded into the cover (you may see some similar fixings on the cover which I believe are for fitting one of those fancy engine covers some models have). If this is so then you could just prize it out. When I took my valve cover off a while back I was so uncertain about this and afraid of breaking it that I instead opted to jam something thin into the zip-tie bit to undo that instead, but unfortunately I ended up breaking that instead. If you do break this clip, it's really not important, so don't worry too much.
3. If you have a Ti-VCT engine then you'll have to disconnect some additional wiring plugs and unbolt and remove the VCT solenoids (sort of cylindrical aluminium things towards the end with the belts). None of this is covered in the video. I'm just noting it from taking a quick look at my Hayes manual (which may be a useful resource for you to buy yourself).
4. Don't forget the one bolt on the side, as mentioned towards the end of the video (though this is only for non-Ti-VCT engines).
5. You may have to wiggle the cover about a bit to get it out of place. I seem to recall it being a bit fiddly the first time I did it on mine.
6. When putting it back on, to try to avoid creating a leak you need to be a little careful in how you screw it down in order for the rubber gasket to be seated nice and evenly without forming a gap through which oil can leak. Snug all of the bolts down gently, then a bit more, starting with the bolts in the center and then working outwards towards the ends. Do the same (inner to outer) for the final tightening, which would best be done with a torque wrench if you have one to ensure you don't overtighten them.

 

I'm not familiar with that, sorry.

thank you

it looks like i dont think i can do this job 😞 

i will just take the coil pack off and try with a cloth to see how much i can take/scrub out.

54 minutes ago, rd457 said:

This video essentially covers it, though I'll add a few notes below.

Notes:

1. The bracket on the back right corner that's held down on a stud with a nut is actually more of a pain to deal with than shown in the video, at least on my '08 focus. This is because there's a second bolt securing the other end of the bracket, located a few inches down the back of the engine, in an awkward to reach spot due to various pipes and such being in the way. It's the most difficult aspect of the whole task by far.
2. On my focus there's a wire going over the right hand side, possibly going to the bracket just mentioned (I forget), with a zip-tie based clip attaching it to the cover to stop it flapping about. I did not see this present in the video, just some sort of lump on the cover where the clip would be. If you have it like I do, then you need to detach this from the cover. I believe this clip is probably just a plastic plug jammed into a threaded metal ring embedded into the cover (you may see some similar fixings on the cover which I believe are for fitting one of those fancy engine covers some models have). If this is so then you could just prize it out. When I took my valve cover off a while back I was so uncertain about this and afraid of breaking it that I instead opted to jam something thin into the zip-tie bit to undo that instead, but unfortunately I ended up breaking that instead. If you do break this clip, it's really not important, so don't worry too much.
3. If you have a Ti-VCT engine then you'll have to disconnect some additional wiring plugs and unbolt and remove the VCT solenoids (sort of cylindrical aluminium things towards the end with the belts). None of this is covered in the video. I'm just noting it from taking a quick look at my Hayes manual (which may be a useful resource for you to buy yourself).
4. Don't forget the one bolt on the side, as mentioned towards the end of the video (though this is only for non-Ti-VCT engines).
5. You may have to wiggle the cover about a bit to get it out of place. I seem to recall it being a bit fiddly the first time I did it on mine.
6. When putting it back on, to try to avoid creating a leak you need to be a little careful in how you screw it down in order for the rubber gasket to be seated nice and evenly without forming a gap through which oil can leak. Snug all of the bolts down gently, then a bit more, starting with the bolts in the center and then working outwards towards the ends. Do the same (inner to outer) for the final tightening, which would best be done with a torque wrench if you have one to ensure you don't overtighten them.

 

I'm not familiar with that, sorry.

just finished watching that video and it does seem easy to take apart, i have never took any part of any engine apart.

that guys sparkplug cavity looks just like mine with the orange rust, he seem to be still driving it and not cleaning it.

i have took pictures of all my sparkplug in the engine, see how much rust i have got:

 

i have took these photos after about 5 hours of driving in the rain ( been raining non-stop) and even used my jet wash. not a drop of water was in the sparkplug cavity and no water on the sparkplugs too which tells me that maybe someone washed the engine out to make it look clean and water somehow got in the cavity.

as you can see, my cavity looks identical to the guys on the video.

Yes, it's really not terribly difficult. I'm sure you can manage. 🙂

We can only speculate as to how the water got in there, but it's great that it seems to not be a current problem.

Indeed the guy in the video also has the same problem, and his looks to be in even worse condition (look at the rusty mess at the bottom of the wells at 5:49). I wouldn't assume though from this video that he's not done something about it since, or has even given any thought to it, and just because it drives okay I wouldn't just dismiss the idea of addressing it.

Remember that such red/orange rust specifically is a product of oxidation of iron. There are two sources of iron in those wells for you to be concerned about, the steel portions of the spark plugs, and also the "core plugs" that sit in between them (the engine block is aluminium as I'm sure you know). "Core plugs" are steel "caps" that are wedged into some holes in the engine block left over from the casting process (cavities like coolant passages are filled with sand at some stage of casting and this sand later needs removing, hence the holes that need to be plugged up). The core plugs that sit in between the spark plugs are plugging holes that lead into the coolant passages I believe. If those core plugs get too badly rusted then flakes of rust could fall into the coolant passages, with the potential for this to clog up small passages such as those in the radiator. Also, if a hole forms allowing air to flow, then the coolant system may not be able to hold its normal higher-than-atmospheric pressure when hot, which will affect the performance of the cooling system (the rubber parts of the spark plug coils might not provide a good enough seal to prevent such air flow out of those wells). I suggest that it would be a good idea to inspect these plugs. If their condition is not so bad then you could either just leave them be or give them a little clean (they're not going to get worse unless exposed to more water). If they're bad enough to need replacing (like those in that video probably are), then this isn't particularly difficult. Core plug replacement involves (from having seen a mechanic do it on some youtube video a while ago), carefully piercing a screwdriver (or similar) into the cap and prising it out (being careful to not damage the engine block), then, using a socket of a similar diameter, gently and evenly hammering the socket to drive the new plug into place. (A flush may then be wise to try to get rid of any flakes in the coolant).

With respect to rust in the spark plug threads, one reason for wanting to remove it might be a concern for it clogging up the threads a bit, but there's also another possible concern - the clean flow of electricity. As I understand it, the electricity flowing into the spark plug from the HT lead, returns through the aluminium engine block itself. I would suggest that rust between the mating surfaces of the spark plug and engine block could inhibit this flow of electricity to some degree.

I would not be concerned at all with the light rust deposit on the surface of the well. Clean it or leave it, no matter.

So long as the condition of things isn't too bad though, it may be perfectly reasonable for you to consider taking action to not be worth the bother.

55 minutes ago, rd457 said:

Yes, it's really not terribly difficult. I'm sure you can manage. 🙂

We can only speculate as to how the water got in there, but it's great that it seems to not be a current problem.

Indeed the guy in the video also has the same problem, and his looks to be in even worse condition (look at the rusty mess at the bottom of the wells at 5:49). I wouldn't assume though from this video that he's not done something about it since, or has even given any thought to it, and just because it drives okay I wouldn't just dismiss the idea of addressing it.

Remember that such red/orange rust specifically is a product of oxidation of iron. There are two sources of iron in those wells for you to be concerned about, the steel portions of the spark plugs, and also the "core plugs" that sit in between them (the engine block is aluminium as I'm sure you know). "Core plugs" are steel "caps" that are wedged into some holes in the engine block left over from the casting process (cavities like coolant passages are filled with sand at some stage of casting and this sand later needs removing, hence the holes that need to be plugged up). The core plugs that sit in between the spark plugs are plugging holes that lead into the coolant passages I believe. If those core plugs get too badly rusted then flakes of rust could fall into the coolant passages, with the potential for this to clog up small passages such as those in the radiator. Also, if a hole forms allowing air to flow, then the coolant system may not be able to hold its normal higher-than-atmospheric pressure when hot, which will affect the performance of the cooling system (the rubber parts of the spark plug coils might not provide a good enough seal to prevent such air flow out of those wells). I suggest that it would be a good idea to inspect these plugs. If their condition is not so bad then you could either just leave them be or give them a little clean (they're not going to get worse unless exposed to more water). If they're bad enough to need replacing (like those in that video probably are), then this isn't particularly difficult. Core plug replacement involves (from having seen a mechanic do it on some youtube video a while ago), carefully piercing a screwdriver (or similar) into the cap and prising it out (being careful to not damage the engine block), then, using a socket of a similar diameter, gently and evenly hammering the socket to drive the new plug into place. (A flush may then be wise to try to get rid of any flakes in the coolant).

With respect to rust in the spark plug threads, one reason for wanting to remove it might be a concern for it clogging up the threads a bit, but there's also another possible concern - the clean flow of electricity. As I understand it, the electricity flowing into the spark plug from the HT lead, returns through the aluminium engine block itself. I would suggest that rust between the mating surfaces of the spark plug and engine block could inhibit this flow of electricity to some degree.

I would not be concerned at all with the light rust deposit on the surface of the well. Clean it or leave it, no matter.

So long as the condition of things isn't too bad though, it may be perfectly reasonable for you to consider taking action to not be worth the bother.

many help for your help 🙂 

i have made another thread to make it look tidier.

hi guys,

been trying to find out what my engine model numbers are.

on the this page:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Focus_(second_generation,_Europe)

there are 11 engines for the ford focus.

i am almost certain my engine is 1.6l duratec ti-vct as i knew my bhp is around the 115 and my engine is titanium but need to be 100 percent sure.

thank you again guys 🙂 

2 hours ago, froggy8 said:

i am almost certain my engine is 1.6l duratec ti-vct

In which case the model is "1.6 L Duratec Ti-VCT 115PS", and the engine number should be (from Haynes' info): HXDA or HXDB or SIDA.

2 hours ago, froggy8 said:

my engine is titanium

🤨 All of the Mk2 engines are aluminium. Your vehicle's "trim level" may be "titanium", though you list "ghia" in your profile...

16 minutes ago, rd457 said:

In which case the model is "1.6 L Duratec Ti-VCT 115PS", and the engine number should be (from Haynes' info): HXDA or HXDB or SIDA.

🤨 All of the Mk2 engines are aluminium. Your vehicle's "trim level" may be "titanium", though you list "ghia" in your profile...

thank you, will check haynes when i get one.

the ti on the engine model number is titanium isnt it? that is where i got it from. apologies for the confusion.

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

the ti on the engine model number is titanium isnt it? that is where i got it from. apologies for the confusion.

No problem, Ti-VCT means Twin Independent Variable Cam Timing. 😉