AlwaysTrouble68 Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 Hi all. A little while ago I posted a message about my running fault on or around 1500rpm with light throttle. Stuttering and jerking. But still no further in solving this annoying problem. However the other day I started it from cold and held the throttle at 1500rpm stationary. It started to almost miss fire and run lumpy like it does when driving. Also white smoke was emitted from exhaust until it cleared up when engine warmed up a bit and started to run OK. But this still happens when driving (except for the white smoke). Please someone help as nobody seems to know and I am scratching my head still.(ex technician with 30yrs) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 Lumpy cold start with white smoke is probably just a weak glowplug, wouldn't be too bothered by that myself. Injectors would be my best guess for lumpy cruising thoigh. I can't remember your last thread unfortunately, what have you already checked or changed? Scanned with Forscan? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papamack Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 My 2011 mondeo 1.6 tdci has the same symptoms. No fault codes stored. Not really tried to fix this and has done it for the last 20.000 miles. My car is high mileage and not looking to throw money at it so just lived with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarsfromNorway Posted September 7, 2022 Share Posted September 7, 2022 My 2008 1.6 tdci acted a bit like yours, but around 2000 rpm. When doing about 50 mph in 4th or 5th it started to stutter and jerk, and also when flooring it between 3-4000 rpm, then it was full cut for a split second. It went fine for a long time, but at the end it just gave up. No eml was thrown exept from when it died. Turned out to be the fuel rail pressure sensor. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarsfromNorway Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 I think i mentioned the wrong part in my post above, this is the actual part that went bad on mine: https://www.diesel-injectors.co.uk/product/genuine-bosch-fuel-control-valve-0928400607-0928400802/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted September 16, 2022 Author Share Posted September 16, 2022 On 9/6/2022 at 12:21 PM, TomsFocus said: Lumpy cold start with white smoke is probably just a weak glowplug, wouldn't be too bothered by that myself. Injectors would be my best guess for lumpy cruising thoigh. I can't remember your last thread unfortunately, what have you already checked or changed? Scanned with Forscan? Thank you for that. Mine is on 187000 miles so could it be an injector? Nothing showing on FORscan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 On 9/6/2022 at 1:21 PM, TomsFocus said: Injectors would be my best guess for lumpy cruising thoigh. Having a similar issue here, do You think that it can be saved by injector cleaning fuel additives? I only use fuel that worked fine for me for 3 years on the other Ford that I also own, with the same engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 9 hours ago, EmdoPL said: Having a similar issue here, do You think that it can be saved by injector cleaning fuel additives? I only use fuel that worked fine for me for 3 years on the other Ford that I also own, with the same engine. Not a fan of injector cleaner myself. At best, it just flushes any muck through the fuel lines and clogs up the gauze in the top of the injector. Injectors wear internally, if they're bad enough to be causing running issues they'll usually need refurbishment or replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 I've been a technician for over 30 years and this one is still baffling me. Forscan shows nothing, I will get to the bottom of this as I'm a stubborn SOAB. Will keep you updated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnF Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 Please keep us updated as I have a 2013 Fiesta 1.6Tdci and its doing exactly the same thing. Replaced the Egr and it made no difference at all. Next step is a MAF sensor, then a Fuel control valve (as above) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 Will do no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 I have ordered a new MAF sensor. Not confident that this will fix it but will keep you all updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 Just for reference, there are 2 totally different engines in this thread. The 16v 1.6 TDCI used in Mk2 Focus and the 8v 1.6 TDCI used in Mk3 Focus. Which one do you have Tony? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 Yes I know. Mine is the 1.6 tdci mk2 2009. Thanks 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 17 minutes ago, AlwaysTrouble68 said: Yes I know. Mine is the 1.6 tdci mk2 2009. Thanks 😊 The Mk3 injectors were a common issue, even at very low mileages, many replaced within the 3 year warranty period. That's the trade off for extra fuel efficiency unfortunately. Outside of warranty, people just put up with a bit of poor running and slight loss of MPG as it's not worth the cost to replace them. The Mk2 injectors weren't as common, but they do start to fail around 10 years/100k as a very rough guide. With 187k on yours, they'll be well worn by now. There aren't many 16v engines with that sort of mileage to compare with. Many were wrecked by the carbon deposit issues which blocked the oilways and would repeatedly blow turbos. (Thankfully that was rectified for the 8v version.) Also on that subject, have you checked to see if any of your injectors are leaking? There'll be black, sticky mess around the base if they are. That can cause minor running issues on the 16v. If they all look ok visually, then I'd recommend having the injectors professionally tested at a diesel specialist, that should highlight whether one or more are now out of spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 4 hours ago, FinnF said: Please keep us updated as I have a 2013 Fiesta 1.6Tdci and its doing exactly the same thing. Replaced the Egr and it made no difference at all. Next step is a MAF sensor, then a Fuel control valve (as above) Okay, mine is a Focus C-Max 2006 and this is definitely a 16V engine with 172k km on the cluster. Replaced the acceleration pedal from the 2007 C-Max that I own, still no change. Dismantled the instrument cluster, soldering corrected, still little to no change. Today after a 200km of driving the engine started making strange noises in the range of revs where the problem occurs, when it stopped making strange noises the handbrake icon lit up and the message was about low brake fluid level. On Monday I have a visit in a good shop with this car, will leave it over a couple of days, hope for fixing that once for ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 Thank you. I have looked down at the injectors and in the past they have leaked but all OK now. I have a seal kit to do just in case. I think that whilst they are out I will have them tested, makes sense I guess. Could just be one of those things that was built into them as it seems common. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 30, 2022 Share Posted November 30, 2022 I don't want to worry You, but if you mean the copper gaskets, if they were leaking and now they don't, the injectors probably won't get out of as easily as You may think. If they get gunked up, removal may be hard or impossible without taking off the cylinder head. Testing them would be a good idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted December 1, 2022 Author Share Posted December 1, 2022 Sorry I ment to say that they have been removed before and are now clean ish. But am going to remove them anyway for testing. Hope I don't have to take head off.... Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted December 5, 2022 Share Posted December 5, 2022 Okay guys, gone to the mechanic shop and the initial diagnosis is EGR fault and a short circuit on one of the sensors. Also my turbo needs to be regenerated because of rotor play. So my advice for You guys is to check the reference voltage on every single sensor there is by the engine. One short circuit makes the voltage drop to avoid destroying other components, this makes the rest of the sensors show incorrect values. To check which one is faulty, simply measure the voltage on every plug of every sensor. If on one of them voltage will rise - you've got your suspect. Normal voltage will be around 5V I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnF Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Quick update on my 1.6Tdci Fiesta, Changed the EGR which did nothing, cleaned the MAF sensor which helped for about 20miles and then started again. Turns out I had an oil leak from the bottom of the oil cooler, which I knew about but had dismissed as a potential cause....... it seems that the oil was dropping down onto the exhaust at the flexi-pipe on the dpf and obviously making its way into the exhaust system, this in turn was fouling up the MAF sensor. Fixed the leak and cleaned the MAF sensor again and all seems to be good. Still a bit of residual oil in the system so will burn that off and clean the sensor again in a few weeks and see how I go,,,,,, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 @FinnF glad you have it sorted out. I have a different storry to tell, which is a sad story. I spent so much money for parts and repairs, it exceeded half of the car's value. After 18 days of repairs and testing at the shop they said I can come and take my car back. They changed oil cooler gasket, cleaned the EGR valve, and they have a refubrished turbocharger fitted, then flushed the engine and changed oil. Next they began to test sensors. Every single sensor that was mounted to the engine was replaced and after each replacement the car went for a drive. Nothing seemed to help. They gave up and i had to pay for what was done already. I paid and I went back home. I barely made it. The engine lost its power,at first I couldn't drive up a little hill near my house. Called them, they took the car back to repair on dec 23. Turned out the conrod bearings were in a very bad shape, the crankshaft too, so I began to look for a replacement engine. Found one, complete, mounted in a crashed Focus MK2, able to run, worked like a new one. Unmounted and transported it to the shop on jan 5. Yesterday I finally had my car back with a "new" engine fitted, everything was looking promissing. They said I have to go to another shop to clean my DPF, because the PCM wants to regenerate it, but something is wrong and they don't know what. Then, when I was in the half of the way to my house, I noticed stuttering again. Anyways, I connected my smartphone to the car with a cheap bluetooth ELM327, checked fault codes, it was the P2458 code and P0166. None of the codes came back after erasing them and restarting the engine. Also I checked the acceleration pedal output in the same app, it seems to be faulty too, about the point where the hesitation starts the chart of the pedal was changing from 10% to 13,5%, but i didn't move the pedal, at other points the chart remained still. Will clean the DPF at the shop, replace the O2 sensor and I'll check what happens to my acceleration pedal connection, because earlier I have tested the pedal from the other C-Max that I own, with no improvement. I'll keep You posted 😉 cheers 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 Blimey!!! That's not good news 😕. Not sure what to say about that 🤔. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The colder the weather the better it is ????? Just to throw another one at it !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The colder the weather the better it is ????? Just to throw another one at it !! Mine that is .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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