1 minute ago, alexp999 said:

BMS reset should ONLY be done when replacing the battery.

DO NOT BMS RESET just because you charged it!!

The car will figure out the SoC within 24 hrs, or you can force an SoC reset by disconnecting the negative terminal for a few mins.

BMS Reset will set the battery age to 0 and you cause the car to adapt its charging profile thinking it has a new battery which will accelerate battery degredation as it pushes the battery much harder than it should.

Thanks mate, I'll update the guide now. I want the info to be 100% correct. 

25 minutes ago, LukeJQuinn said:

Thanks mate, I'll update the guide now. I want the info to be 100% correct. 

Updated. Please see V.1.0.1 huge thanks to @unofix & @alexp999.

Battery Monitoring System Reset V.1.0.1.pdf

HI all - new to this forum (and any others to be honest). I'm having the exact same problem with interior lights, keyless entry and stop/start. This has been incredibly useful. Had zero luck with my local Ford garage, who tried to charge me £120 for a battery test, even though they handed the car back without any fix. I'm going to buy the bogger battery, the Yuasa one being the best price right now. 

My question is - how important is the BMS reset, as I don't have a Forscan, and I wouldn't be entirely comfortable doing resets etc as it's something I have no experience in. 

thanks

S

4 minutes ago, SmithSSS said:

HI all - new to this forum (and any others to be honest). I'm having the exact same problem with interior lights, keyless entry and stop/start. This has been incredibly useful. Had zero luck with my local Ford garage, who tried to charge me £120 for a battery test, even though they handed the car back without any fix. I'm going to buy the bogger battery, the Yuasa one being the best price right now. 

My question is - how important is the BMS reset, as I don't have a Forscan, and I wouldn't be entirely comfortable doing resets etc as it's something I have no experience in. 

thanks

S

Reset is quite important after fitting a new battery to get everything working again. 
 

It can be done with a pedal/button combination. It doesn’t need Forscan. 

52 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

Reset is quite important after fitting a new battery to get everything working again. 
 

It can be done with a pedal/button combination. It doesn’t need Forscan. 

Ahh, I understand the process document better now. 

If only the Ford garages themselves were as helpful and quick to respond as people on this forum! thanks so much!

Did some of you already try to set the correct battery via forscan?

 

This solved the battery issues for me and most other users that were affected by the battery problem.

5 minutes ago, BenFF said:

Did some of you already try to set the correct battery via forscan?

 

This solved the battery issues for me and most other users that were affected by the battery problem.

I’ve rarely seen Forscan show the correct values for batteries. Even between versions it changes. I changed mine to the bigger diesel variant using as built data. Forscan didn’t recognise my factory value or the new battery value. So I wouldn’t rely on the UI dropdown values.

2 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

I’ve rarely seen Forscan show the correct values for batteries. Even between versions it changes. I changed mine to the bigger diesel variant using as built data. Forscan didn’t recognise my factory value or the new battery value. So I wouldn’t rely on the UI dropdown values.

This names in the list are wrong but if you choose the correct ID for your battery and set the the SOC value to 90% it should work.

If you see "incorrect value or not configured" in forscan or if the shown battery is absolutely wrong:

- Use a USB OBD2 device (Vgate vLinker USB)

- Use Forscan Version 2.3.49 (important)

- Check out which orig. battery you have

- For a 70AH 700A Battery choose ID 35 from the drop-down

- For a 60AH 600A Battery choose ID 34 from the drop down

- Set the target SOC to 90% (optional 80% should be fine)

- Choose the correct battery type if needed (Flooded for EFB battery)

BTW: You want to set the same battery for both entries in forscan:

Battery Normal & Battery Factory

 

The correct values will also allow the BMS to fast charge the battery to the target SOC.

Of course: Everything without guarantee

You also may disable WLAN and automatic Updates in Sync4.

Be sure to get the newest version of the BMS from the dealer. The number of the newest hardware ends with CC.

2 minutes ago, BenFF said:

This names in the list are wrong but if you choose the correct ID for your battery and set the the SOC value to 90% it should work.

If you see "incorrect value or not configured" in forscan or if the shown battery is absolutely wrong:

- Use a USB OBD2 device (Vgate vLinker USB)

- Use Forscan Version 2.3.49 (important)

- Check out which orig. battery you have

- For a 70AH 700A Battery choose ID 35 from the drop-down

- For a 60AH 600A Battery choose ID 34 from the drop down

- Set the target SOC to 90% (optional 80% should be fine)

- Choose the correct battery type if needed (Flooded for EFB battery)

BTW: You want to set the same battery for both entries in forscan:

Battery Normal & Battery Factory

 

The correct values will also allow the BMS to fast charge the battery to the target SOC.

Of course: Everything without guarantee

You also may disable WLAN and automatic Updates in Sync4.

Be sure to get the newest version of the BMS from the dealer. The number of the newest hardware ends with CC.

The values are different for different calibrations.

Those wouldn't work on my car. The value for the 70Ah battery on my calibration (firmware) is 1C.

1 minute ago, alexp999 said:

The values are different for different calibrations.

Those wouldn't work on my car. The value for the 70Ah battery on my calibration (firmware) is 1C.

Ah ok. That makes sense. I didn't take that into account.

I bought a demo Focus ST mk4.5 mean green. This was manufactured 30 august 2022.

It was delivered to me 29 august 2023. So almost a year later. It had not been driven more than 20-30km.  For some gas and a single test drive. It was sold as new with full warranty.

Less than a month after I started to notice some things. Start stop first stopped working (not a bad thing really).. Then suddenly all internal lights didn’t turn on when I entered the car. Also minor issues with the keyless and SYNC screen not turning on. Fordpass giving me messages of turning off connection and saving battery.

Never ever an issue with starting the engine. I contacted my dealer and got a time one month later. Meanwhile I did a battery test which showed the alternator working atleast, showing 14.8V while the car was turned on. The strange thing though was it only showed 9.5V off. Never an issue with starting it though.

I told my dealer this. They checked the battery, charged it up and said they couldn’t find any faults. Also did a firmware update to BMS. I simply had to try and see if it worked. It worked fine for two weeks. Then the same issues started again. I contacted them again. They gave me a new appointment four weeks later.

This time they actually did some tests (I think). Found there was something wrong with the BMS sensor. It wouldn’t tell the charge state correctly they told me. It had to be replaced. They ordered one and I got a new appointment for fitting it about two weeks later. Everything worked fine after that for about 7-8 days I think. The issues started again. I called them again and told them now I want a new battery as this is getting rediculous. I was told I’d have to pay for it myself if they didn’t follow the Ford warranty troubleshooting by them.

I got an appointment yet again for a check. This time they found that the battery was broken. Got an appointment three weeks later for install of the new battery. It’s now been almost five weeks without any issues. Even the dredded start stop works almost every day.

 

The thing is, I had a newer SYNC version already during these issues. I even got updates to very latest Power-up during these problems. I have wifi on (active 15 minutes after engine turn off), all Ford connect stuff active and Ford Secure active.

I mentioned the battery issues to Ford from day one. But they told me (and showed) that when doing warranty work they have to follow test routines as Ford demands. First they check if the battery charges and update BMS software. Only after that the actual troubleshooting begins and there are an order how they do these tests. Ford does not pay them for unlimited checks. I guess that’s why you have to go back 3-6 times for a faulty battery. This has been really irritating and cost me alot of money for the fuel. My dealer is a bit of drive to.

Never ever during all this did I have an issue while using the car.

Hi guys,

After thinking about it, and the car not changing (like the last post, still starts and drives fine) I've decided to go the ford route and get them to look at it.

6th Feb booked in. Will report here.

 

Hi all.

Latest from me is, they gave the battery a short charge when in for its service, and it fixed it!!!!

For 4 days ha ha.

It's going in next Monday for an over night charge and an investigation on the Tuesday.

Here we go.....

It's gonna take 4 visits for them to admit an issue I reckon.

I got the line "oh its modern cars for you sir with all the demands on the battery"

How's no, its a brand new car, it should just work grab ya...

So, in for an overnight charge last night.

Will see how many days or weeks it lasts before I have to take it back for the next stage of the diagnosis.

Just thought I'd report here.

I bet your all thinking, just change the battery, but i wanna see how I get on through warranty first.

Everyone who's replaced the battery been fine since??

3 minutes ago, Plimp92 said:

So, in for an overnight charge last night.

Will see how many days or weeks it lasts before I have to take it back for the next stage of the diagnosis.

Just thought I'd report here.

I bet your all thinking, just change the battery, but i wanna see how I get on through warranty first.

Everyone who's replaced the battery been fine since??

Keen to hear the outcome of this. I also have 1.5 yrs left of warranty and this issue is so annoying that I'm close to caving in and just buying a new battery.

Ok.

Unlocked the car tonight. No drls, no interior lights.

Full overnight charge did exactly what we expected.

Now.... can I be bothered to go back to the dealer with it?

 

2 minutes ago, Plimp92 said:

did exactly what we expected.

Very sad, but true.

I think you should seek professional legal advice. It may cost you £150 just to find out what your options are but in the long run probably money well spent.

I think I'm either....

1) gonna leave it for a bit, and maybe go back to the dealer when I can be bothered. 

2) buy the bigger battery.

3) charge it every so often.

Don't like 3. Don't see why you should. Charging and battery system should be able to produce a survivable voltage by using the car normally no matter what features its got. 

Hey guys. Some familiar names in this topic which is reassuring! 

So I came here looking for Luke's battery fiasco he had when he first had his ST to start checking if my appearing issues are the same... 

Looks like we all have ***** batteries! 

So for me... 

Focus ST estate MK 4.5 Built Oct/Nov 22, picked up in Dec 22, just clocking around 12000 miles. 

Can't remember last time my stop start worked. Oh yes I can, it was during a long weekend break 150 miles away, and it came on as I stopped at a set of lights 300 yards away from home! This was May 2023. Oh well, never liked it much, and always heard it was so temperamental! 

But recently some strange things have started happening... 

DLRL and interior lights not coming on, parking sensor beeps different, stereo sounding different. 

I first noticed this a few months back after I came back to the car after short journeys, or if I washed it and was in and out the doors a few too many times. So I was thinking, maybe it just needed a longer run? Is it just THAT cold it's taking more a toll and a battery drain? My daily commute is 12-15 miles each way and was always fine afterwards, a day or two after. 

The last week or so things have escalated. Every single day, regardless of journey length, how long between unlocking/locking etc. When unlocking the DLRL never come on, interior light doesn't come on, every time the parking sensor beeps are different again. Yesterday my audio only came out of the speaker on the sync 4 screen. To reset this I had to go into settings and change from surround to stereo and back again (which did fix it). Lights don't remain on after getting out the car and locking. 

Then today, to top it all off, my keyless entry didn't work. I had to use the button on the key fob to unlock the car. I mean it sounds like such an entitled issue, but it's another thing not working that should. This was a first today though, and now I'll pull my finger out and ring the garage tomorrow. For reference this was after getting to work and coming back to the car after a 7 hour shift. 

I'm 100% convinced this is a battery issue, and that the systems and sync 4 are definitely a toll on whatever battery is fitted! Ivetche ked for updates and it says everything is up-to-date. I'll get the version number tomorrow and add it on here. 

Any advice is welcomed, although it looks like the best thing to do is just bite the bullet and fit a better more suitable battery (thanks ford!). £150 and an hour of my time is definitely the better option Vs several trips back and forth to the dealer and multiple days without my car!

@Plimp92 and @LukeJQuinn where are you guys now at with things? How much if a ball ache will ford be about just replacing the battery? I assume I'm under warranty right? I'm a bit new to this (first brand new car/real issue)

 

Thanks all and sorry for the long post!

 

Hi mate. 

So I'm here.

1) quite a few cold months of no drls upon locking and no interior lights. They are my only symptoms, and stop start always works cos mines a 48v mhev.

2) took it for a service end of Jan, and they gave it a quick charge. That restored normal functionality for about 4 days.

3) went back 2 weeks later for the matrix headlight sw update, and an overnight charge

4) headlights are fixed (separate issue) and the car was behaving fine battery wise.

5) after a week or two I left the car for 4 days with no use, and upon the unlock, the drls didn't come on again as my last post.

6) since then its been  fine strangely. No action taken.

I can only think that at point 5 it had gone into a deep sleep and a really marginally low battery, and the subsequent drives in point 6 have kept it above.

Will continue to monitor. And as an overnight charge made weeks worth of difference I might just get a charger. 

Like you I can't be bothered to go back and forth to the dealer.

By the way. Battery health check at dealer said it was healthy, but low on charge 

Good day/evening all

I've read through some of this thread and recently I'm experiencing problems with my battery. I've got a 2022 (72 plate) Focus Titanium Vignale. Last few days I've been receiving messages via Ford pass about features deactivated to preserve battery. This morning when opening the car no lights illuminated either outside or inside. Car started fine and drove fine. I was contemplating buying a charger to see if I could boost the battery, I don't do big mileage to or from work so I don't think the battery is getting enough charge. My previous car a 2018 Focus titanium had the same issue only more severe that one morning it was completely dead and I lost a days wage and was relieved of £200+ for a new battery. 

Is the battery covered by the warranty? Is it worth investing in a charger or should I contact the dealer? Reading through some of these posts it seems to be a long job to fix and I can't not have a car for days or weeks. 

1 hour ago, Stevie H79 said:

Is the battery covered by the warranty?

The battery is not the problem. You are not doing enough miles and/or not using the car enough. ALL modern cars of all makes suffer from a State Of Charge problem. Your cars charging system is factory set to only charge the battery to 80% no matter how many miles or how often you drive. The car is constantly running down the battery while it is parked. The only answer is to change the SOC to 95% and also charge the battery every 5 or 6 weeks for at least 12 hours.

Hi Stevie.

Pretty sure the battery would be covered if it hadn't lasted a reasonable amount of time.

But mine was deemed "healthy" at the visit.

So what's ensue is loads of charging system investigations etc.

I asked my salesman if they'd had any other focus ml4.5s back with battery issues, and he said "a few". Which is a customer facing version of flipping loads I suspect....

What really needs to happen is, Ford acknowledge there's an issue and perform a fix on each car.

They'll be reluctant to do this though.

For me, maybe a charger. It aint right, but the car still works, and in my case, the long charge seems to have had a slightly longer lasting affect, even though I'm sure it'll resort to fault condition soon enough

(I wrote this while Unofix was writing his reply, and what he's saying makes sense)

8 minutes ago, Plimp92 said:

What really needs to happen is, Ford acknowledge there's an issue and perform a fix on each car.

Ford know there is a problem but their hands are tied by EU/UK emissions rules. The cars alternator causes a significant load on the engine which causes more emissions. Therefore car manufactures have set the default charging rate to a maximum of 80% to help them meet the impossible emission targets.

Increasing the charging rate to 95% helps keep the battery healthy but would mean that they would fail to get type approval for the vehicle. Ford dealers are prohibited by Ford from altering the SOC. There is of course nothing to stop individual owners using FORScan and adjusting the charge rate to 95% and living 'happily ever after' 😀

Thanks for the replies. How does one go about changing the SOC with Forscan? It's not something I'm familiar with. As you stated the dealer isn't going to perform it so it would be a waste of time going there. I'm edging towards going down the charger route simply for the ease. Also altering the SOC you say can affect emissions, does that not make it prone to MOT failure?