Hi All 

First time posting so hopefully I am in the right area, I have Focus 2012, titanium x.

Well, on my way home out of the blue I had a message pop up on the dash saying "Engine malfunction service now" and the engine died; no limp mode just off. It wouldn't restart however will turn over albeit sounds fast and possibly no fuel. The lovely recovery guy did me a fault report and wow lol

31 faults, I was aware of a DRL issue with a headlight and a parking sensor fault but slightly shocked. I replaced the fuel filter just in-case it was that but no joy, the more i think about it the more I'm feeling it is something electrical as surely that's a lot to go without being linked. There also seems to be quite a few memory ones so maybe a low battery from all the attempts at getting her going. 

I do have forscan and the elm327 somewhere but thought I would post to see if anyone had any ideas on where to start whilst I'm trying to find the dam thing  :(. 

 

ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System) 5 problems exist
1.U0401:00-60 Data Received From ECM(Engine
Control Module)/PCM (Powertrain Control Module) A
Is Invalid
Continuous Memory DTCs
2.U0140:00-60 Missing Communication With
BCM(Body Control Module)
Continuous Memory DTCs
3.U0126:00-20 Lost Communication With Steering
Angle Sensor Module
Continuous Memory DTCs
4.U0151:00-60 Missing Communication With
Restraints Control Module
Continuous Memory DTCs
5.U3003:16-68 Battery Voltage
Continuous Memory DTCs
ACM (Audio Control Module) 1 problems exist
1.U3006:16-2F Control Module Input Power A Open
Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
BCMII (Body Control Module) 5 problems exist
1.B112B:07-28 Steering Wheel Module
Continuous Memory DTCs
2.B10A2:02-28 Crash Input
Continuous Memory DTCs
3.B1D38:16-2E Front Wiper Motor
Continuous Memory DTCs
4.C111A:15-2F Right Stop Lamp
Continuous Memory DTCs
5.B1D01:15-2C Right Low Beam
Continuous Memory DTCs

HCM (Headlamp Control Module) 6 problems exist
1.B1A57:87-64 Left Headlamp Levelling Motor
Continuous Memory DTCs
2.B1A58:87-2F Right Headlamp Levelling Motor
Continuous Memory DTCs
3.B1A59:11-2C Sensor 5 Volt Supply
Continuous Memory DTCs
4.B1C98:13-2F Left Corner Lamp Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
5.B1C99:13-64 Right Corner Lamp Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
6.U3003:16-27 Battery Voltage
Continuous Memory DTCs
HVAC (Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning) 1 problems exist
1.U3006:16-2C Control Module Input Power A Open
Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
IPC (Instrument Panel Control Module) 1 problems exist
1.U3006:16-28 Control Module Input Power A Open
Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
PAM (Parking Aid Module) 1 problems exist
1.B1B40:96-2F Left Front Outer

PCM (Powertrain Control Module) 9 problems exist
1.P037D:00-2E Glow Plug Sense Circuit
Continuous Memory DTCs
2.P0341:62-2E Camshaft Position Sensor #A Circuit
Range/Performance Fault - Bank #1 Or Single Sensor
Continuous Memory DTCs
3.P0341:29-2E Camshaft Position Sensor #A Circuit
Range/Performance Fault - Bank #1 Or Single Sensor
Continuous Memory DTCs
4.P0616:00-2E Starter Relay A Circuit Low
Continuous Memory DTCs
5.P02D3:00-2E Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector A Offset
Learning At Max Limit
Continuous Memory DTCs
6.P02CD:00-6C Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector A Offset
Learning At Max Limit
Continuous Memory DTCs
7.P0562:00-2F System Voltage Low
Continuous Memory DTCs
8.P0562:00-2F System Voltage Low
Continuous Memory DTCs
9.P00BC:00-26 Mass Or Volume Air Flow #A Circuit
Range/Performance - Air Flow Too Low
Continuous Memory DTCs
PSCM (Power Steering Control Module) 1 problems exist
1.U3003:13-48 Battery Voltage
Continuous Memory DTCs
RFA (Remote Function Actuator) 1 problems exist
1.U3003:62-28 Battery Voltage
Continuous Memory DTCs
The following systems are OK:
1.DDM (Driver Front Door Module)
2.FCDIM (Front Control/Display Interface Module)
3.PDM (Passenger Front Door Module)
4.RCM (Restraint Control Module)
5.SASM (Steering Angle Sensor Module)
6.SRM (Speech Recognition Module)

Which engine?

Fast turn over is often due to mechanical damage such as a snapped cambelt.

I think your battery is also low.  But the fact that it could turn the engine over quickly suggests that isn't the main fault here.

Hi, thanks for the reply. 

Its the 1.6tdci sorry 😁 

i did timing belt but checked that first and all seems ok there. The battery certainly is going be getting a good charge before i plug it in and try to reset things 

Ok, I would try a compression test next if possible.

Also check that you have fuel at the filter.  These don't use a tank pump, so if there's a small leak on the low pressure side, they suck air in and the fuel drains back to the tank.

Fuel & compression are about all you need to start a common rail diesel.

Time to dig my old kit out then lol any particular values or is it consistency that is key ? 

 

I did prime the filter as I'm aware of the lack of a pump and appears to be leak free, any way to check other than a good look around?

Really appreciate the advice 👍

Just looking for consistency with the compression test.  If something major has blown it should be obvious.  If you've got an old petrol tester, it may not have a suitable adapter for diesel glowplugs.

If the filter primed ok and the handpump firmed up then that should be good enough as a low pressure test.

After those tests we'd be moving on to electronic diagnostics - checking crank sensor and fuel rail pressure for example.

One thing at a time then lol if it doesn't I'll have to invest in something. Any recommendations about ?

Yeah, seemed to go well but I'll be rechecking it just to be sure 😁

I get this feeling I'll be watching lots of videos over the next few weeks lol 😆 

 

 

With all those lost communications (U) on the can busses, I think I would look for water around the BCM / Fusebox behind the glovebox causing corrosion. Worth checking

Thank you, there another fusebox behind glove then? 

 

I was also thinking BCM or cluster but so many of those faults are for low voltage that there are probably a lot of red herrings.

If you can get Forscan on it with a fully charged battery that would be ideal to see how many comms faults return.

The one that sticks out to me is the crash detected one.  On petrols that stops the fuel pump from priming and can be triggered by a failing battery.  It doesn't reset automatically so continues to prevent starting even after a new battery has been fitted.  I'm wondering if it can stop the injectors firing on the diesel...though don't remember seeing that happen before. 

There is reset procedure (not detailed in the handbook for Mk3) basically just switching the ignition on & off in 30 second bursts.  There is a YouTube video on it, called Mk3 Fuel shut off or similar.  As I say, never seen it affect a diesel but might be worth a try if it's still present with a fully charged battery.

Yeah thats the plan, just need to find it or buy another lol 😆 fingers crossed the 31 drops considerably...

Not had any impacts of late, had one about 4 years ago so may have been from that but not been showing up on the cheap reader i have. Will get it cleared on forscan and see if it stays before i try the reset. 

 

 

So as an update. 

Found a small leak on the fuel filter housing, swapped it out however hasn't resolved it. Still waiting on the compression kit so not checked that yet but found my forscan reader so thought would plug it in and reset everything. 

Good news down to 7 lol bad news a few new ones that i don't think were on the old list but don't think they are the problem. 

Likely suspect......

PCM P037D:00-2F Glow plug Relay Sense Circuit 

Known issues 

PAM 1B140:96-2F front left out sensor

HCM B1A58:87-2F right headlight motor circuit 

 

New ones 

PDM B12DC:54-2F

PDM B12DD:54-2F

DDM B12DC:54-2F

DDM B12DD:54-2F

 

 

So tried a little more time resets etc and one more code which i think would make sense... 

P0341 sensor A range

Looking online appears to be related to camshaft sensor. Anyone know if this can be tested at all ?

It should fire without the glowplugs.  That code doesn't generally cause a non-start.

Should also fire without a camshaft sensor input.  It's the crank sensor that the ECU needs to set the timing.

However, cam sensor out of range would tally with a snapped cambelt.  Are you 100% sure the belt is good?  Also can I just check this is a Mk3 Focus, so has the 8 valve engine?

Yeah more i think about it the first was more a hope on an electrical fault 🤣

Ill double check this afternoon but had the cover pulled back and belt is there on top pulley, looks nice and tight so unlikely to be snapped. 

 

Yup, Mk3 8 valve from the looks of it 🤣

 

28 minutes ago, Rogue_Ray said:

Yeah more i think about it the first was more a hope on an electrical fault 🤣

Ill double check this afternoon but had the cover pulled back and belt is there on top pulley, looks nice and tight so unlikely to be snapped. 

 

Yup, Mk3 8 valve from the looks of it 🤣

Fair assumption to make then.   The teeth could still be stripped around the crank.  Get someone to crank it while you look under the cover.  I can't remember if you can see the camshaft through the oil filler hole on these - if so, that would be another way to confirm.  (Theoretically the camshaft could snap and the sprocket would still turn, though that's very unlikely)

There was an almost identical situation to this a few weeks ago on here.  Car just cut out mid cruise.  But that was a 16v engine that uses an additional chain between the cams, and that chain had broken.  As yours in the 8 valve, there is only one camshaft, so if that's moving during the crank test, the belt should be fine. 🤔

Incidentally, the belt is overdue a change if it hasn't been done so far.

Well you know what they say about assuming 😪

 

Good shout Tom 

Looks like a trip to the dentist and get those teeth looked at 🙄

Think it needs more than a dentist lol 

 

Assuming its an interference engine so could be dead 🤔 

4 minutes ago, Rogue_Ray said:

Assuming its an interference engine so could be dead

Yes I believe it is, so chances are it will not be cost effective to repair. I would think a secondhand engine can be got for £300 to £400, so just a simple matter of dropping it in 😉

As simple as dropping it in 🤣🤣🤣

 

 

It is interference but you may find the damage is no more than a few snapped rocker arms.

As long as the valve stems are exactly vertical with horizontal faces they shouldn't get bent like the angled valves on some 16v engines do.  Just get pushed straight upwards and snap the rockers.

Might be worth whipping the cam cover off for a look.  Nothing to lose now.

Hahaha i guess your right, i really don't wanna scrap it but times the key lol 

Guess i can strip top half down to start with and see if it looks messy. 

Once cover is off, I'm assuming i can check stems and then its just if they are smashed up then its likely to be the piston as well. 

Whats change of it damaging the gasket ?

17 hours ago, Rogue_Ray said:

Hahaha i guess your right, i really don't wanna scrap it but times the key lol 

Guess i can strip top half down to start with and see if it looks messy. 

Once cover is off, I'm assuming i can check stems and then its just if they are smashed up then its likely to be the piston as well. 

Whats change of it damaging the gasket ?

Headgasket should be fine.  I really think it'll just be a couple of snapped rocker arms. 

If the camshaft is damaged or any of the valves look bent then it'll be quicker to swap the engine than rebuild the head.

Cheers bud, well will know over the next few days as will be stripping cover off to see the damage. 

Will keep everyone updated........ fingers crossed.