jamesm182

Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

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7 hours ago, thor1 said:

last week engine light came on took it to a garage they reset the codes light went off, but within 10 minutes it was back on, car seems to be running perfect,

 

54 minutes ago, Ferrit said:

Without knowing what the codes are it could literally be anything. Do you know what the codes were?

+1 !

Code readers are cheap, easy to use and safe. Not all are much good, but they should all read basic engine codes.

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HI, 

I have a 2.0 diesel 2005, which I have had for about a year.
It has been a pain in the *****.
Most recently, last July, it started losing power to the point of running flat, no turbo. It went to the mechanic and got its solenoids changed (scrapyard doner), a new downpipe and cat.
Has been fine since until a few weeks ago when I felt it lose power suddenly. I rev'ed it a bit and it seemed to be fine so I thought it was my imagination. A few days later my OH was driving and said the turbos weren't spooling up. Again, revved it up a bit and it seemed ok again.
It has rapidly gotten worse since, permanently running flat, in and out of limp mode, shaking and just feeling wrong. Engine warning light, code P0047.
I don't know if it is relevant but I also recently started hearing turbo whistle, while it seemed to be driving ok. I admit to being generally oblivious to things like that I def think it didn't use to whistle
As far as I am aware, it does not have a DPF. We did verify this with a mechanic last year.
It's with the Mech again today but has anyone got any ideas?

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15 hours ago, zeezee said:

Engine warning light, code P0047.
I don't know if it is relevant but I also recently started hearing turbo whistle, while it seemed to be driving ok. I admit to being generally oblivious to things like that I def think it didn't use to whistle

Turbo noise can be a symptom of a leaking or split air hose. This is a very common fault. If it was bad enough, it might cause the P0047 code, and that might make the ECU shut down the turbo.

Otherwise, the turbo not spinning up could be a wiring fault, or a sticking actuator, or a leak in the vacuum actuator.

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Car went to the mechanic Fri and he still has it.
At first, he could see there was anything wrong with it, he said it was working fine.
The next morning it lost power. Last update, he has no idea whats wrong with it.

OH is making noises that it's not economical to repair. He wants me to get a petrol but I just cannot bear to lose that power, its capability on the motorways.
This is my first diesel. Are they always such pains in the *****?

 

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2 hours ago, zeezee said:

He wants me to get a petrol but I just cannot bear to lose that power, its capability on the motorways.
This is my first diesel. Are they always such pains in the *****?

Not to mention the fuel economy, with pump prices heading towards £1.40 a litre once more. Motorway service stations are already over that level, I noticed this week.

My last petrol car had problems with the exhaust manifold leaking, exhaust pipe flexible coupling leaking, which needed a cat replacement too (£300), failed crank sensor, idle control valve jammed, cylinder head gasket gone (£700), Cat gone again due to antifreeze from the head gasket, or maybe 'cos it was a cheap one. O2 sensor broken by garage replacing cat, then head started leaking again. Finally it failed MoT on emissions, probably the 2nd cat going due to more antifreeze.

Though it was a Vauxhall, so maybe it serves me right!

My current Focus has had lots of faults, from reversing lamp switch to front wheel bearings, but the only engine faults have been the EGR valve, which I have managed to repair & blank off while not working, and a leaking air hose, currently bandaged up with thin ali sheet and hose clips. That is in over 6 years, and it is now on 167k miles.

Exhaust systems last much longer on a diesel, lean burn means less water vapour, and lower exhaust temperature.

I suspect the DMF is on its last legs, but I can not complain too much about that, for the mileage.

If you want economy and petrol, for Ford that means a 1l Ecoboost, which has a turbo, intercooler, and high pressure direct injection system, just like a diesel (lower fuel pressure, but petrol is a very poor lubricant for moving parts compared to diesel oil.) And a high temperature water cooling system, that can cause serious problems. So the image of a simple, basic, reliable, easy to fix, petrol engine is a thing of the past, really. Most 1l Ecoboosts are reliable and good, and so are most diesels, but expensive problems can happen, either way.

If you do replace it, I suggest avoiding the 1.6TDCI in the Mk2/2a Focus (DV6 engine). It is very sensitive to servicing, so older cars with an uncertain history are likely to be a very bad buy. The DV6c in the Mk3 Focus is much better, I hear.

 

But the problems with your car could be something relatively cheap, like the MAF sensor for example. It is just that locating faults on all these complex, electronic cars is hard, as it is all so inter-dependant.

 

 

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Mine had split bought one of ebay but it's not fit for the job. I need one but ford are asking for 110 pound! It's ridiculous for a hose. 

 

Does the one below fit? This isn't the one I bought 

20180720_172120.jpg

20180720_172056.jpg

Screenshot_20180719-182306_eBay.jpg

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On 10/20/2013 at 11:27 AM, leggy666 said:

Hi I am new to this site I have a 2005 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec and I am currently having a problem where in the morning the battery light comes on when i rev it first thing and stays on for about 20mins during this time the lights dim down and go bright again. I have just put a new Silver Calcium battery on from Ford as the one before was a normal battery. The wires in the connector going into the alternator was showing bare metal and had them repaired. The alternator on it is a reconditioned 105 amp which i had put on about 10 months ago not sure if its a genuine ford one. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

When did u last change battery as they degrade over a few years so its recomend that it

changed every 2 years.

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Hello all

I am on my second Mark 2.5 Focus (1.8 petrol, done only 51k), loved them both.

Last week it started giving clanking periodic noise from the front when driving, but only when I ease off the accelerator (engine breaking). As soon as I touch the brakes or clutch, it stops clanking. It happens between 10 and 40 mph, in any gear. Worse when going downhill.

I had it checked on the ramp, mechanic guys shook and checked everything and said suspension / steering / CV / wheel nuts are appearing solid. So a bit of a mystery...

I somehow suspect that either side of the driveshaft (into gearbox or into CV joint) is a  bit worn.

Has anybody come across something similar?  Any advice much appreciated.

Matt 

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Hello all I recently bought a 06 Ford Focus st3 255 and have come across a view issues as follows :: 

Driver's side headlight washer Jet Is stuck and won't pop out Is this and easy fix Just replace etc ? 

Reverse light does not work change bulb but nothing. 

Also can anyone tell me what this part is and what does it do 

Totaly love the car amazing drive you can cruise along normally or you can be fullon mental 😁😁😁

s-l300.jpg

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We have a 06 1.6 zetec petrol. Got engine system fault.... Fine all summer. Autumn and it started... Told cluster so had that done...twice....same fault red light loss of power. Changed battery....same happening. Low revs....slowing to stop.... Told could be ECU issue. Told spark plugs. Garage can't find fault in ecu? On 50k miles. Was going to check idle valve or egr valve.... At a loss really.

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46 minutes ago, Son of Nod said:

Got engine system fault.... Fine all summer. Autumn and it started... Told cluster so had that done...twice....same fault red light loss of power. 

With that light on there must be some codes. But many standard code readers can not read all codes.

On my car, that light used to come on, and code P0299 was present, but my OBD reader could not find it. Only Forscan dispalyed the error code. That turned out to be a hose connection to the MAP sensor, and is not likely to be directly relevant to a petrol engine.

However the point is that there will be an error code, but an in depth system like Forscan may be needed to read it.

I am pretty sure there is no Idle Control Valve on a Mk2 Focus 1.6 engine. Idle is controlled by the main throttle body.

The cluster fault that is very common on the 2006 Focus does not usually cause gradual loss of power, it puts all sorts of odd lights on, then refuses to start at all. So it does not sound like a cluster problem. More like coil pack to me. But without some DTC it is very hard to say.

 

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54 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

With that light on there must be some codes. But many standard code readers can not read all codes.

On my car, that light used to come on, and code P0299 was present, but my OBD reader could not find it. Only Forscan dispalyed the error code. That turned out to be a hose connection to the MAP sensor, and is not likely to be directly relevant to a petrol engine.

However the point is that there will be an error code, but an in depth system like Forscan may be needed to read it.

I am pretty sure there is no Idle Control Valve on a Mk2 Focus 1.6 engine. Idle is controlled by the main throttle body.

The cluster fault that is very common on the 2006 Focus does not usually cause gradual loss of power, it puts all sorts of odd lights on, then refuses to start at all. So it does not sound like a cluster problem. More like coil pack to me. But without some DTC it is very hard to say.

 

Just happens more when damp or raining. 

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Thinking of getting a mk2 as a second car but after reading this I'm not so sure. Can anyone reassure me? Thanks. 

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On 11/7/2018 at 8:12 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

I am pretty sure there is no Idle Control Valve on a Mk2 Focus 1.6 engine. Idle is controlled by the main throttle body

Overall idle is controlled by an ICV or throttle body but I think normal fluctuations in idle are controlled with ignition timing as that reacts faster.

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59 minutes ago, Jim59 said:

Thinking of getting a mk2 as a second car but after reading this I'm not so sure. Can anyone reassure me?

The Mk2 Focus is, overall, a very good car to choose. All models have their weaknesses, the Mk2 Focus is better than many.

A few things to watch out for:

Underbody rust. Especially around the rear suspension, springs, rear subframe and rear brakes & hub carriers. If the rust is only surface deep, it can be dealt with quite easily and cheaply. If it is close to perforating any of the structural members, then repairs can be a bit expensive.

The 2006 Instrument cluster problem. This affects all the Focus range, but seems to be limited mainly to one batch of clusters from that time. It can be repaired, but is a pig if you are not expecting it.

The 2008 Injector problem on the 1.8TDCI. Only on this engine, though it affected all models using it, and pretty much only for a narrow date range around 2008. Should be ok if the injectors have been replaced.

The 1.6TDCI engine is prone to DPF system problems, and to carbon build-up in the engine. They can do high mileage, but only if well looked after. So past history is useful, though garage service book ticks (FSH) are almost entirely meaningless, unless you know and trust the garage. It needs more than the minimum garage or dealer "no care" service.

A Focus is not the quietest and most refined car you will ever drive, but it does combine good road handling with reasonable comfort and decent load carrying capability.

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Hi all,

Looking for some advice on a '08 Ford Focus Style I am interested on buying.

It's a 1.6L petrol with 55k miles, but I don't know much about service intervals and what I should be looking out for.  They are asking ~1500 for it which sounds not too bad for a car at 55k.

If I would to go for a look, what should I be looking in this particular year/model and is there anything that should have been serviced at this point (or needs to be in the next 10-20k miles)?

I know that the cambelt and waterpump need to be changed at 60k/8 years intervals, but that is all.

Is this an overall good car? Looking for something cheap and reliable to run for 1-2 years.

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Having owned a few focuses myself, I’d say one of the main problem seems to be the poorly designed bonnet catch, causing it to become jammed. There is now a new part on eBay for this, which I’ve fitted to my current focus. It’s solved the problem and was very simple to fit, best £5 I’ve ever spent. Item number is 264077543273.

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Not sure where to post this and doesn't warrant a new thread. So for the craic i thought i'd try the flip key in the door instead of remotely opening it up to see if it works, unlocks the door ok, but i sat in her and she was bleeping at me, I sort of panicked a bit and quickly pressed the unlock on the remote key which put her back to normal. Just wondering what the procedure is for unlocking and driving is should the key battery dies.

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The beeping was because you manually unlocked the car.
It's a security feature whereby if the car doesn't get an electronic signal to unlock it starts a timed sequence towards alarm activation.
If you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the first position within 10 seconds (iirc) then the alarm will stop counting down.
It's to stop someone picking the lock with a copied blade or pick tool.
The car just needs either a remote unlock signal or the transponder chip in the ignition.

Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

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Hi everyone, i have a 2008 1.8tdci facelift mk2 focus. A few weeks ago, i had the water pump, thermostat and belt done. Now, my temperature gauge keeps fluctuating when i drive, but when i don't stop and start, like in town, it goes top 90° and stays there. But as soon as i enter a town is does it again. It never goes above 90°or the second white mark which i presume is around 90. Plus my glow plug light gauge 15 seconds to go out, is that normal? Should i be looking at a set of new speedometer clocks or something else? 

Thanks 👍🏻

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12 hours ago, Louis clarke said:

Plus my glow plug light gauge 15 seconds to go out, is that normal?

The time for the glowplug lamp to go out depends on engine water temperature. Below about 15C, it takes ages (I have not timed it!), at 20C it is just a couple of sec, above about 25C it does not come on at all. That is from my car, I have a digital readout of CH temperature in the car, so can see what is happening.

If you are getting 15sec even with a lukewarm engine, like after a stop up to 1 hour or so, then it suggests your CH sensor is faulty. The thermostat operating temp on my car is 80C. The gauge rarely goes above 50% of its range, and I can also see the actual temperature. The gauge does fluctuate a bit, fo no apparent reason. Just a normal "feature" I guess.

In cold weather, the CH temperature can drop a little when idling or slow driving, a deisel generates little waste heat, not always enough to keep the cabin heater up to temperature.

The CH sensor is in the end of the cylinder head near the fuel filter. It is under the oil pressure switch, so don't mix these two up. I think the fuel filter might have to be lifted (no need to disconnect) a bit to get at it, and/or the oil separator removed. But it is quite an easy job to change it if it is supect. The other suspect is the thermostat which is also an easy and cheap job on the 1.8TDCI.

I see no reason to suspect any problem with the IC (dash/clocks/cluster). I assume the water level is staying at its correct level.

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On 3/20/2019 at 11:32 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

The time for the glowplug lamp to go out depends on engine water temperature. Below about 15C, it takes ages (I have not timed it!), at 20C it is just a couple of sec, above about 25C it does not come on at all. That is from my car, I have a digital readout of CH temperature in the car, so can see what is happening.

If you are getting 15sec even with a lukewarm engine, like after a stop up to 1 hour or so, then it suggests your CH sensor is faulty. The thermostat operating temp on my car is 80C. The gauge rarely goes above 50% of its range, and I can also see the actual temperature. The gauge does fluctuate a bit, fo no apparent reason. Just a normal "feature" I guess.

In cold weather, the CH temperature can drop a little when idling or slow driving, a deisel generates little waste heat, not always enough to keep the cabin heater up to temperature.

The CH sensor is in the end of the cylinder head near the fuel filter. It is under the oil pressure switch, so don't mix these two up. I think the fuel filter might have to be lifted (no need to disconnect) a bit to get at it, and/or the oil separator removed. But it is quite an easy job to change it if it is supect. The other suspect is the thermostat which is also an easy and cheap job on the 1.8TDCI.

I see no reason to suspect any problem with the IC (dash/clocks/cluster). I assume the water level is staying at its correct level.

Hi, i have had the water pump and thermostat changed. Which is when this problem started. And it hasn't stopped since. The water, i keep checking every week and it is normal. Are there any signs to say it is worn out/not working properly, other than this temp dial acting up. When the needle doesn't act up, it goes to 90° and doesn't go above so i don't think the car is overheating. All the car heaters get hot as normal. So you think it could be the central heating sensor

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26 minutes ago, Louis clarke said:

When the needle doesn't act up, it goes to 90° and doesn't go above so i don't think the car is overheating. All the car heaters get hot as normal. So you think it could be the central heating sensor

As it started after a thermostat change, I think I would remove the thermostat, test it, and ensure it was installed properly, right way round and sealed ok. The old saucepan & thermometer test can check these basic thermostats. Or just replace it again, they are very cheap.

There is a way to run a simple test on the gauges, see

(Works on most Fords, inc Focus)

Or google Secret dash test.

It will show if the actual gauge works, but as it is stable when the car is under load, I doubt if there is any problem there. If the temperature starts dipping badly under light load (slow traffic), then it is most likely a sticking thermostat.

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