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Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread


jamesm182
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On 1/9/2014 at 7:04 PM, artscot79 said:

Surprised nobody has mentioned water leaking into spark plugs
on the 1.6 & 1.4 petrol engines ! judging by other threads on here
it appears to be very common, I've just had this issue on my own 55
plate Zetec 😞

it was on the first page 🙂

Was there a more I. Depth post on this issue? The cause and solution? Just seen someone ask about it locally is all and remembered this thread. But even in page 1 I dont see it referenced as artscot says it was on P1. 

Many thanks, Dave 

 

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Wondering if this thread suits my problem just picked up a 59 plate focus zetec s 1.8tdci and when I'm in first second etc and get slowly to 18k revs it judders any 1 else seen this and know what it is ?

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1 hour ago, anthony89b said:

get slowly to 18k revs it judders

The only references I have seen to juddering with this engine are in connection with the injectors. There was a problem around 2008 with a duff batch, and this was one symptom. It would also put the MIL (warning lamp) on with an Injector DTC stored. Hopefully on a 59 plate you are clear of this.

If it really was 18k rpm, it would not be juddering, it would be a miracle:laugh:.

I guess you mean 1800rpm, which is about peak torque on this engine. So it could be a lot of things from engine mounts to turbo actuator, via MAP & MAF sensors, EGR, intake hose leaks, etc. Most of these will be detectable to the ECU, which will store a DTC if it is sustained or serious. So I would keep a good code reader handy, and use it regularly, especially after it has a bad spell of juddering or it puts the EML on. Forscan is the best system I have come across, it can pick up codes that most basic, generic OBD2 readers will not see.

Check the EML itself has not been tampered with, it should come on when the ignition is turned on, then go out. Tampering with these lights is quite common, sadly.

Hose leaks don't normally cause juddering, but usually give an audible hiss as turbo pressure builds. The ones from intercooler up to the intake manifold are the most common ones to fail. Engine mounts can be inspected for visible failure, or for any appreciable movement under hand pressure. Failed mounts could cause juddering over a narrowish rpm band, due to some internal resonance.

 

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Mate I don't know what a EML is haha I'm useless with a lot of car things im going to take it back to the garage I got it from I'm thinking egr or injectors it hasn't been drove for about 3 month proper so maybe it could just need a good run 

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All sorted now, i topped up my antifreeze which was mixed half and half and it doesn't do it anymore. The mixture must have been too rich for the temp sensor. So if you have this problem, make sure you try a 50/50 mixture first, as it is the cheapest option.

Thanks for whoever helped and I hope it helps you 

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. So I have some minor issues so far with my focus.

 

  1. Rear window washer: Basically, when I try to turn it on, water comes out the front washer instead.
  2. The vents down at the feet (both passenger's and driver's) do not seem to work? The windshield and main vents work ok.
  3. Horn has recently changed sound and became less loud. It's as if there used to be two simultaneous tones and now it's just one.

Can anyone shed some intuition; are these issues common, or am I going to have to do a lot of dismantling and trial and error to find the cause?

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4 hours ago, sandowian said:

Rear window washer: Basically, when I try to turn it on, water comes out the front washer instead.

That is a fairly common problem. Not hard or expensive to fix either, though a bit fiddly. See:

The vent problem sounds a bit more difficult to deal with, if one of the flap operating linkages is broken, then it is quite a big dismantling job to get at the heater unit.

For the horn, first remove the plastic trim above the grille at the front of the engine bay, usually just some little plastic scrivets (push-in, screw out thingys), see if two horn units were fitted, or if the horn is just clapped out.

 

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  • 1 month later...

have you had a fuel filter changed ? dont rely on the word of a fitter i was told mine had been changed but i also had low fuel pressure issues so i thought iwould check the filter only to find it hadnt been changed since 2012 guess what,,i fitted a new one my self its fine now

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  • 3 weeks later...

any one know location of pvc value is on a 2005 focus zetec climate 116 is

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I think there is a common issue with the instrument cluster too.

Signs:

 - All possible error lights show up after a while 

 - Car won't start only for force (hitting the dash slightly)

 - Acceleration issues

What causes the issue:

 - The soldering of the connector at the back of the instrument cluster gets micro cracks around them

Ford service Cost: 800£

Actual Cost: Free if you have soldering kit or 10£ if you don't have

How to fix:

 - Grab a magnifying glass and scout the cracks, then solder them

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have 2012 focus ST. Couple of months ago someone tried to steal it but fail. My windows was broken into and the obd port part was open. I had my phone and bags in there but they didn’t take it so I know they came for the car. 

The car has develop a software problem. When you open the boot for about 20sec, the battery go flat. It can’t find the keys at times. Electric folding mirror will only fold one side. Basically all the electronics are failing. Really need help with this please. Thanks for your help. 

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2 hours ago, Albert87 said:

When you open the boot for about 20sec, the battery go flat.

It is physically impossible to flatten a battery that is charged and in reasonable condition in 20 seconds. If you tried, something would get very (like red) hot, and the battery electrolyte would probably boil and steam be seen coming out. It would need a current of 7,200 (7 thousand) Amps to discharge even a 40AH battery in 20 sec.

The conclusion from this is that either the battery is practically flat already, possibly due to not getting any charge, or is completely knackered.

A duff or flat battery will upset many of the electronic modules in the car, so the the first thing to investigate is whether the battery really is going flat, or if the symptoms are due to the damage done by the thieves.

If they damaged one of the CAN bus wires connected to the OBD port, then that could have all sorts of odd consequences. Also it is possible they tried loading incorrect software into one of the modules (most likely the BCM by the symptoms) in order to try to enable the car.

If the attempted theft had been reported to the police and/or your insurers at the time, then you might be able to claim off the insurance for repair by a dealer. Without any police or insurance notification at the time, it might be very difficult to do this now.

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Hi there,

I'm new on here.

Firstly I am not a qualified mechanic, but not afraid to get stuck in. [emoji3526]

I have been having issues with my Ford Focus 2009 1.6 zetec (petrol) for over a year now and I would be truly grateful if anyone actually knows the Solution. Its so bad that I'm now not comfortable driving it with my young family.

The symptoms are the following...

Hunting on idlle when the engine is switched on which leads to stalling)

Jerky shuddering when accelerating from stationary.

Poor torque when in third gear.

Sudden acceleration when I travelled at 60 when I came onto a motorway (last night of which I noted the time on the car's clock)

When waiting at lights/roundabouts car stalls.

So far the following has been done...
Spark plugs changed
Air filter replaced
oil changed

2 garages have run diagnostics and found no faults.

Air manifold block taken out and checked by the garage.

There's no Maf sensor in the vehicle because of its model.

The Tmap sensor was checked by the garage

The inboard computer (forgive me I don't know the term) was reset because the manidold block was taken out.

I have absolutely no idea as to how this has happened. The car is shy of 100 thousand miles on the clock (10 000/ year).

Limited funds but I really need this fixed for family travel.

Thankyou kindly in advance.

Dave

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk



Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/12/2019 at 10:40 AM, mrdstamp said:


Hi there,

I'm new on here.

Firstly I am not a qualified mechanic, but not afraid to get stuck in. emoji3526.png

I have been having issues with my Ford Focus 2009 1.6 zetec (petrol) for over a year now and I would be truly grateful if anyone actually knows the Solution. Its so bad that I'm now not comfortable driving it with my young family.

The symptoms are the following...

Hunting on idlle when the engine is switched on which leads to stalling)

Jerky shuddering when accelerating from stationary.

Poor torque when in third gear.

Sudden acceleration when I travelled at 60 when I came onto a motorway (last night of which I noted the time on the car's clock)

When waiting at lights/roundabouts car stalls.

So far the following has been done...
Spark plugs changed
Air filter replaced
Oil changed

2 garages have run diagnostics and found no faults.

Air manifold block taken out and checked by the garage.

There's no Maf sensor in the vehicle because of its model.

The Tmap sensor was checked by the garage

The inboard computer (forgive me I don't know the term) was reset because the manidold block was taken out.

I have absolutely no idea as to how this has happened. The car is shy of 100 thousand miles on the clock (10 000/ year).

Limited funds but I really need this fixed for family travel.

Thankyou kindly in advance.

Dave

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk



Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk
 

I have these same issues with a 2008 1.8 petrol

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On 8/12/2019 at 9:40 AM, mrdstamp said:

Hunting on idlle when the engine is switched on which leads to stalling

Jerky shuddering when accelerating from stationary.

Poor torque when in third gear.

Sudden acceleration

When waiting at lights/roundabouts car stalls.

So far the following has been done...
Spark plugs changed

2 garages have run diagnostics and found no faults.

Air manifold block taken out and checked by the garage.

 

On 8/31/2019 at 2:54 PM, ElliottB90 said:

I have these same issues with a 2008 1.8 petrol

Throttle body sticking, or an electrical fault relating to the throttle body would fit those symptoms. Ignition problems (plugs, leads (if they exist) and coil packs) remain always the first suspect with hesitations, but modern cars are usually quite good at detecting ignition related misfires, and raising DTCs (error codes).

I have edited down the symptom list slightly to those that stack up with throttle body problems, (to me, anyway!)

Major problems with the throttle valve should store some DTCs, to show up on diagnostics, but the car software is far from perfect, and minor problems can go unreported.

I am not sure what an "air manifold block" is, maybe they mean the throttle body, but the throttle is separate from the air intake manifold.

A good diagnostic system like Forscan can help to check for codes that can sometimes disappear before you get to a garage, and to look at how the throttle is operating. Garages operate under a huge disadvantage, they have very limited time to look at any symptoms, and to try to make a diagnosis. On cars dominated by electronics and complex (aka bug ridden!) software, we need all the help we can get.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have to keep this short since I'm writing on mobile. After driving in the rain today I parked my car and went back down after 30 minutes. I found the left side blinkers blinking randomly, some motor was going on and off (do not know what motor it was) and some relay was clicking on and off. Car would not unlock via the key button and would not start. I disconnected the battery for now. Obviously there must be some water leak ***** up the electronics but I have no idea where to start. Are there any common leaks/causes I can pinpoint?

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12 hours ago, sandowian said:

water leak ***** up the electronics but I have no idea where to start. Are there any common leaks/causes I can pinpoint?

The BCM (aka GEM or passenger fusebox) is very vulnerable to leaks from the roof, windscreen and a few other places. It also directly controls indicators and most other lighting, and the central locking, not mention wipers, windows, etc etc.

There are lots of posts and sites about removing, inspecting and cleaning this unit. Damp, dirt and corrosion on pcbs can cause absolute havoc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I am new to this forum and looking for some help with my Ford Focus 1.6 Automatic Petrol (53 Plate)

It was working fine when I bought it a few years ago, needed a service which was done by a local mechanic.

Recently, when the car is idle and especially in reverse gear, the car judders, it is absolutely fine when driving.

3 mechanics have looked into this issue.

Mechanic 1 - Changed the Lambar sensor at the back, which resolved the issue until it went in for a service, the issue reappeared again after the car was serviced.

Mechanic 2 - Used a diagnostic machine and found that the other Lambar sensor was faulty, this was replaced by the issue still occurred.

Mechanic 3 - It went in for an MOT (which passed), but i asked the mechanic to look into the juddering issue. He changed the CAM Sensor and tried some new HT Leads but the issue is still occurring.

Not sure what else to do now, I like the car and would like to keep it but the juddering is getting pretty annoying.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all

i have a 2008 Ford Focus , is has been parked up for a few months , now has a flat battery , have replaced the battery , connect battery and alarm goes off , keybfob doesn’t do anything ( have replaced  battery in that too just in case ) , engine starts ,alarm goes off but hazards flash still , does this point to key needing reprogramming ??( it’s a 3 button key )

separate issue which I don’t think is connected ??? , bonnet release cable snapped so i has to get bonnet open from under car , hence bonnet catch and cable nor connect 

any advice welcome pelase

 

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6 hours ago, Arl said:

keybfob doesn’t do anything ( have replaced  battery in that too just in case ) , engine starts ,alarm goes off but hazards flash still , does this point to key needing reprogramming ?

Very likely it needs reprogramming. If the key starts the car, then the immobiliser (PATS) is ok, just the remote control. The procedure is in the owner's manual, or can be found here:

The bonnet catch problem is very common, and can be several causes. There is a plastic cross link that come apart, the cable inner can break, or there can be problems with the lock. Best just to replace the whole cable assy, possibly latch as well.

 

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Without reading through the whole thread, and not wanting to start a new topic, i'll post query in here. I was feeling flush and had a Morrisons 10p off per litre voucher. I brimmed my mk2 with diesel till it accidentally overflowed. I noticed that the needle has gone way past the full mark and into the displayed fuel pump motif. When switching off car, the needle doesn't go back to zero anymore but settles on quarter tank mark, a bit concerned that i may end up running out of fuel in the future by this false reading. Any simple solution to resetting the needle to correct parameters?

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1 hour ago, mozz said:

When switching off car, the needle doesn't go back to zero anymore but settles on quarter tank mark, a bit concerned that i may end up running out of fuel in the future by this false reading. Any simple solution to resetting the needle to correct parameters?

I seem to remember that after I had one out of line, my needles did a little backward cycle on each ignition on-off cycle, and moved down a bit each time until they hit the endstops, then read correctly. It just took a few ign. cycles to get it back into line.

If it continues to hit the upper end stop, it may stay wrong until the level drops enough to keep it in range.

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Thanks Peter,  now you mention it, i did think it was a little bit more in range, after i stopped and restarted at chippy. Hopefully it will reset itself eventually , i'll keep you informed. 

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