dougy giro

Dreaded Fuel Pump Failure On 2003 1.8 Tddi

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Hi All

Its my first post here so go gently with me!

My wifes Focus clapped out last week and RAC squirted that easy start stuff and it started again. I had an Auto Electrician out today and the codes were confirmed as P1564, 1664, 1665,0335 and 0149, so confirms its the Fuel Pump I believe.

The car is a good runner on 106K, I paid £1100 for it 18 months ago so it has served its purpose well so far.

Would you recommend that I try the cheap (ish) option of just sending the ECU away to one of the many companies who refurb and send it back in a couple of days, or can you recommend somewhere to send the whole fuel pump / ecu combo to?

I can probably get the ECU off myself (Auto electrician said make sure you cut all of the black wires at different lengths), but the pump would be a garage job ( I live in the North East).

If I go for the full pump I assume I may as well have the timing belt done at the same time too. What are your experiences?

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I wouldn't panic just yet! get the fuel filter changed first its about £40 or less from eurocarparts. Then let us know if the car starts (after its been primed properly). Also get the error codes cleared out and see what new codes come up!

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I wouldn't panic just yet! get the fuel filter changed first its about £40 or less from eurocarparts. Then let us know if the car starts (after its been primed properly). Also get the error codes cleared out and see what new codes come up!

Like this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-FILTER-for-FORD-FOCUS-1-8-TDDi-DIESEL-from-1998-to-2005-/121097355813?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AFocus&hash=item1c31f70225#ht_267wt_721

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Seems about right, but I cannot say 110% but at that price, if you buy it and its not right, then at least you wont have forked out a massive loss.

Have you got a decent indie garage? or have you called a mobile mechanic?

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Seems about right, but I cannot say 110% but at that price, if you buy it and its not right, then at least you wont have forked out a massive loss.

Have you got a decent indie garage? or have you called a mobile mechanic?

Yes - mate owns an Indie Garage, mobile bloke was out today to check the codes. How easy is it to prime the fuel filter? It has stood for a week if that makes any difference

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When you replace the filter, you would need to prime it with a bulb. The best advice is to fill the filter with fuel first, fit it and then use the bulb to prime it.

Its a case that some people have struggled for hours to start the car. Others have primed it and started within 15 minutes.

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How easy is it to remove the ECU from the car without removing the fuel pump? I can see 2 of the wires that you cut but the other 2 are hidden out of the way. I assume it will be a ball ache crimping / soldering back in place whilst still fitted.

Fuel filter didnt make any difference.

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I have to be honest, I dont see it being an ECU issue, unless you have evidence to the contrary.

Normally if the ECU goes, the car goes full stop. Nothing happens, or allsorts of screwey lights come flashing on with warnings and errors and fire alarms.

Are you still getting the same error codes?

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Hi

I haven't had the codes rechecked since the auto electrician came out and tested initially.

I am going to pass it over to my mate who owns an independent garage. One of his mechanics originally suggested not bothering fixing it at all though!

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Not really an ideal answer when you have an unusable car.

Unless you bought it from a dealer within the last 6 months, in which case unless it was sold as seen and signed to that effect, then you really want to get it fixed!

So the car is still struggling to start, then you are looking at either fuel, breathing or firing issues.

Given its a diesel it could be either glow plugs, air filter or fuel filter. Given the last has been changed, then you are looking at one of the other two, or perhaps a fuel issue still (maybe theres a crack or damage somewhere else along the fuelling system?

When the car does start, does it feel "knocky"? if so this could indicate the glow plug isnt heating the cylinder efficiently and may be new glow plugs...

Have you got a code reader? if not look at my signature at the "got an error on your car" thread that will guide you on how to buy one so you can monitor problems such as these.

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Thanks for all of your suggestions. I am biting the bullet and my mate is picking it up on Wednesday to have a look. I will set myself a budget and if the repair cost exceeds this I will sell the car for spares or repair.

I can pick one up for around £600 so no point spending too much on it.

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Hi - local indipendant who was recommended by a few people has found a pump on a working car that is breaking, he will swap it out and do coding for £240, I have asked him to do oil/ filter and new belt fitted to fuel pump for an extra £55, so £295 all in. He said its a cracking engine so worth keeping. This includes towing the car to his garage also.

Thats assuming it is the fuel pump of course!!!!!!!!

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Hi all most interesting topic I to have a 2003 ford focus and the car started first time every time until I had the mot and the mot tester asked me have I had the cam belt done as the new diesel mot test are hot on omissions now and they have to rev and push the engine and I have had it done a year a go'  so passed mot but not long after car did not start first time and then the week we had the snow it did not start so called AA and they sprayed easy start and it stared first time, the AA patrol Sade it was the glow plugs so changed them and sill the same will start with easy start' someone suggested change fuel filter but still the same' so thought must be air the system so hand pumped from output on fuel filter and then undone injector feed 1&2 had fuel and then 3&4 had fuel but still will not start even with easy start so called the AA and the codes are Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control 2 - 38X / EEC5-EDC Common RailP2263 - Boost pressure control. Error Message : Malfunction.P2291 - Rail pressure. Error Message : Pressure too low. the AA man says I must purge the fuel system and it can take a hour or so. this is  my first time I have had a diesel car so it all new to me any ideas greatly appreciated.

Best Regards Colin.

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2 hours ago, Colincornwall said:

EDC Common RailP2263 - Boost pressure control. Error Message : Malfunction.P2291 - Rail pressure. Error Message : Pressure too low.

You are a bit in the wrong thread here, a TDCI is totally different to a TDDI, as regards to fuel pumps & injectors.

P2991 looks to be the critical message: Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking

When cranking, the fuel pump should quickly build up pressure in the common rail, on my Mk2 1.8, it needs about 200Bar there before it will even try to fire up.

If the pressure is not building up, then in your case I would say it is either a fault in the fuel pump, or one or more leaking injectors.

Air in the fuel system can cause this, but it usually takes a bit of time for this to happen. To me, your fault sounds too consistent and severe to be air ingress.

The most easily damaged part of an injector is the pilot valve, and leaks here will go into the leak back system to the tank. So a leak-off test on the injectors would identify or eliminate this. If the main injector valve was leaking, fuel would go into the cylinders, and eventually appear at the exhaust as white / grey smoke.

So if both injector tests are negative, then the pump is the most probable culprit.

A thread on a similar problem, which seemed to be leaking injectors, is here:

 

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Hi Peter,

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction as I have not owned a diesel car before and it is taking time for me to understand the way they work unlike my old ford sierra 1.8 lx petrol with no computers and room to work on and the last one made in Germany with out a cat , I have had it for 24 years but alas it has now been outside for 2 years.

I will report back on my progress with the focus, one thing watt is a acceptable run off in ml and over watt time i.e 3 minutes  5 minutes

Best Regards

Colin.

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3 hours ago, Colincornwall said:

my old ford sierra 1.8 lx petrol with no computers and room to work on

I had a Sierra 1.8, with the CVH engine, no cat, RWD, no power steering, no a/c, and like you say, far easier to work on with its conventional engine layout, not like these crammed in transverse monsters. I was sad when it suddenly died in 2005. The engine just stopped, and almost immediately seized into a solid lump, no trace of any movement of the crankshaft at all.

But I do like my 1,8TDCI. Although much more complex, it is more powerful, and also a lot more economical. 50mpg vs 35mpg.

Regarding leak off tests, there is little or no hard information about flow rates. There are YouTubes showing it being done, but it may not be the same engine. I think the important thing is all cylinders should be similar. It is not really a leak at all, the flow is an essential part of how the injectors work. They are two stage valves, and the 1st stage is operated electrically by the ECU. It is a very small valve, and in fact when energised it depressurises a chamber containing the piston operating the 2nd, main stage. There is a small orifice that allows fuel into this chamber, so when the 1st stage closes, the chamber re-pressurises and closes the main valve. Thus the "leak off" flow shows how long the 1st stage is energised for, and if there is any continuous leakage past this tiny valve when closed.

To have the effect you are seeing, an injector 1st stage leak would have to be quite severe, and you would most likely see a big difference between cylinders if this was the problem. A 2nd stage leak will go into the engine cylinders, so should eventually appear as mist or smoke or fuel smell at the exhaust. It might need quite a lot of cranking though, so keep the battery well charged if trying it!

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