fto dude Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hey up folks, so monday is the day. she is booked into Herts Auto tek in Nup end near stevenage for the DPF to be partially gutted and re mapped, then to have my injector seals done too... im hoping and preying that i dont need new injectors and that it is just seals... theyre also going to put diesel in the additive tank and disable the need for squirting into the tank. Fingers crossed it solves all but a few of my problems... ill update on monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercmaxer Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hope to all goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 All went well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fto dude Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 hey guys, sorry i forgot to feed back.. ok so as per my original post it went in to have my chuffing injectors and DPF 'removal' completed. by the time monday had ended, they had essentially removed and se seated/ sealed injector 1 and fixed a bent pipe on my injector which is where the diesel was leaking from. this solved my chuffing injectors problem. They also found major air leaks coming from turbo pipes and down the back of my manifold. after discovering this (i watched them do a smoke test and it looked like my engine was smoking weed in a couple of places.. lol..) so they were reluctant to go ahead with the DPF work while i had these major issues. after much deliberation and scenario planning, we decided to let them do the manifold gasket and re seat the turbo pipe which would seal the leaks. Essentially the thinking behind this is that if the air fule ratio isnt right at this stage of the combustion process, then itll be dumping all sorts of cr4p out of the back and generally not run right. So we agreed that after they had done this work, to run it, take a further look at the error codes, put some additive in the additive tank and then run a regen. So they did the work, solved the air leaks, ran it, put additive in and forced a regen. essentially this worked. the car now runs well and hasnt stuttered or gone into limp mode for a week or more now, so its fingers crossed. i do still have 1 MIL error to do with my additive and that is low voltage P2458 i think it is... this could be a chaffed wire or something or dodgy connection, so i am still to investigate this. any knowledge on this code would be much appreciated. The car then went for its MOT the day after- failed on headlight alignment, broken passenger front suspension spring, and too much oil. The too much oil was taken out, and as a result of the poor air fuel ratio mix im told the engine could have been dumping fuel into the oil, so im planning to do an oil change asap. The headlight alignment and broken spring was fixed at the garage same day with my help (a friend works at the garage who was very accommodating) and then it went for the emissions testing and passed with flying colours. Then the MOT re test was done and all was ok. Apparanetly the tester is very anal and picky, so i should be pleased about what was done and fixed. he even failed it on the abs wiring not being in the clip properly on the suspension arm! lol- this was easily pushed back in. I had some advisories which i also tackled at the garage and plan to get it in for an underseal schultz so that the underside is protected- its all showing signs of rusting so i need to tackle this sooner than later. All in all a happy motorist at the moment. The work done to get this through the MOT was just shy of £600 all in. for now. prior to this i fixed my washer bottle blockage and removed my rear wiper motor and replaced this. i also upgraded to the citroen c2 rear wiper too while i was at it. list of jobs to do oil change fuel sender fix underseal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Low battery voltage could need the terminals removing and resetting, do you get the battery light at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fto dude Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 No buddy. It's low voltage at the additive sensor on the additive tank though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Aaah I'm with you, so showing either a short circuit or bad connection elsewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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