ff2007 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Hi guys, - car cranks fine - battery date is 15A. - battery reading 12.5v when engine off, and 14,55v when engine on. - no lights dimming/flickering when revving. - car stereo lights up the display, plays the music fine but date/time is not shown until I drive a min or two. - "ESP sys fault" & "Transmission malf" is shown only when driving the car right from the cold. When warming the engine and then driving the car, those two warnings don't show up! Looks like after the battery is recharged while engine was running problems do not appear! How would I check the alternator is really charging in a stable way? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Have you recently changed the battery? What makes you think battery/alternator is related? If you are getting 14.5v when the engine is on, then I'd say the alternator is working. I know there can be electrical issues if you don't use a calcium battery... Have you tried reading the fault codes? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1tch Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 The alternator should be working correctly with that voltage, might be worth checking for fault codes and trying to log them (using a code reader and phone etc) - might find that the alternator is on all the time trying to charge a battery that can't hold the charge or indeed the alternator is overcharging the battery - would need to log the voltage during a drive. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 These are the codes shown on IDS: U2023 - ABS U1900 - EPS U1900 - IC P0700 - PCM U0101 - PCM P0790 - TCM U0001 - TCM Not sure if this is battery/alternator related OR it is a low level of transmission oil when cold starting, and it is expanding all over sensors inside the oil cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 1 hour ago, alexp999 said: Have you recently changed the battery? What makes you think battery/alternator is related? If you are getting 14.5v when the engine is on, then I'd say the alternator is working. I know there can be electrical issues if you don't use a calcium battery... Have you tried reading the fault codes? Have the car for more than half a year now, didn't change the batter. It's production year is 15A (Jan 2015), had no issues starting the vehicle even on winter temps (-20 deg C). Even now, car cranks fine. but if I drive it cold, it will show up those 2 warnings, if I wait to reach 75-80 deg C, then drive, then no warnings on dash whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Now, starter relay clicking when ignition is on only and no battery light on scree! Anyone has any idea what's happening? I heard people tell that their cars won't start and hear the starter relay clicking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan62 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 battery, battery terminals / cables and battery ground point would be a good place to start. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 its either the battery has a faulty cell or you're dash cluster is faulty 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Did a battery test to local garage, while engine was running they removed the positive cable from the battery and measured: Volts: 13.33V Measured: 483 A Rating: 570 A And the report their device generated says to replace battery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan62 Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Before you bin the battery it would be worth checking the battery cell electrolyte levels. Even on a "sealed" battery you can usually do this by removing the label on the top to expose the cell covers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 17 minutes ago, Dan62 said: Before you bin the battery it would be worth checking the battery cell electrolyte levels. Even on a "sealed" battery you can usually do this by removing the label on the top to expose the cell covers. They did check this indeed, the level of fluid was clear showing green for all cells, however the fluid in the cell next to positive terminal was kinda darker which they said it's normal. Clamps were tightened. If this issue turns out to be a wiring/cable/grounding, I'd be surprised cause same wiring is when engine is warmed and I understand that some wires may warm due to the load passing through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmole Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Removing the red terminal from a battery while engine is running will fry most cars!!!!!! something you should never do on a modern car with its electrics and indeed the ford manual expressly says to never do this That battery reading shows some sulphation but seems ok and indeed seems to start the engine ok. So I would suspect a connection issue of as someone said above a dash issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Thanks everyone for the comments! I see many are pointing to the dash. But, can't these codes be if a TCM is the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 13.3v is too low it should be around 14v or higher 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 56 minutes ago, artscot79 said: 13.3v is too low it should be around 14v or higher 13.3 was when red terminal was removed from the battery. Otherwise, tests at home with multimeter read 14.5 when engine was running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 they should never have removed the red terminal to be honest but hey ho looks like more live data is needed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S40Un Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Don't forget to Get a silver calcium battery ! as I said to you before. My car had similar issue, battery was duff , although it wasn't as to low on power it was low enough to make the car throw a wobbly. any lack in power & these auto ones no likey ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S40Un Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Regarding the cluster , have you tried doing a self scan on it & seen the results? if your unsure how to do this ignition off, hold the button on the end of the indicator stalk whilst holding button turn ignition on, release when the digital dash screen iluminmates with black dots , then using the scroll stick on indicator to scroll through each test , to exit turn key off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 0:36 PM, madmole said: Removing the red terminal from a battery while engine is running will fry most cars!!!!!! something you should never do on a modern car with its electrics and indeed the ford manual expressly says to never do this That battery reading shows some sulphation but seems ok and indeed seems to start the engine ok. So I would suspect a connection issue of as someone said above a dash issue Just tonight appeared the Check Engine light. Code B1317 battery voltage high. Code was then cleared and it dissapeared from the dash. Could this be from yesterdays removing the terminal from the battery? Light did not show up in the morning though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmole Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Hard to tell, anything electrical could have been zapped, but would have shown straight away I would have thought That would suggest your alternator was putting out Over 15v. which you can easily check with a multimeter if its true 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Agree. Did check, showed 14.55v. Initially thought about putting the multimeter to the cigarette light socket and measure the voltage while driving the car to see the voltage at the time any light appears on the dash, including ESP and Trans.warnings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmole Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 That's normal as is anything up to 15v if its cold. Clear the codes and see what comes back in case its from the arc when the cable was removed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S40Un Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 your alternator should be a smart charge one also 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2007 Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 How does PCM monitors the battery temperature??? This technical bulletin says it does! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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