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Fault, any ideas?


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Hey guys, I tried to ask this earlier, but somehow it never got posted...

2007 Ford Focus estate, 1.6 tdci 90ps - THEREFORE NO DPF!

Currently at about 74,000 miles...

Bit of build up to the event.....I was driving on a dual carriageway earlier for about 35-40 mins at *ahem* 70mph, all was fine, car had usual power etc. We took a turn off, then decided to turn back to dual carriageway to head for a service station, so round the roundabout, and back on, still power, then pull off and stopped. Took a short break 10 mins max, (letting dog out) then I jumped back in, I turned the key to the 2nd position (one before start) as I reached for my seat belt, then a chime came on "Engine systems fault".... in a panic I turned the key back to 0... and then back to 2 again,.... same thing.... back to 0.... panic a smidge, then decide to see if the car can run - started up and it was fine, no warning, no lingering lights... drove down to the bottom end of the car park and all was ok...

Popped the bonnet - oil fine, water fine, pipes connected (as far as I could tell), water temp fine, no other warnings... I put it into test mode, no new faults (other than an old one about a wrong key or something)...

So started up and again, no warnings, started driving and it was fine, got into town and as I was looking for a carpark, the light came on again, this time I started noticing that there was a sluggish response to the pedal (perhaps had been there with earlier faults, but hadn't noticed)... I listened out and realised there was no turbo whine... That's when I suspected the turbo was dead, or something... At the traffic lights, I again, turned it off and on again, and lingered in traffic until there was a bit of a free road and I purposely put my foot down and Turbo whine back on...

Anyway, parked up, did what needed to be done, and more or less had the same experience as I began the journey back home, until I knocked it off and on again and all was normal, took off down the dual carriageway - all fine, made it home, parked up and again all fine... no sign of warnings, or that anything was ever wrong, but clearly something isn't right... ideas?

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With the engine malfunction warning it puts the car into an limp home state to avoid damaging the engine.

 

As Tom says get the codes read and go from there, has it ever had glow plugs changed do you know? There could be any number of reasons why the engine malfunction warning has come up.

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Hmm, I have a reader somewhere, but as everything is up in the air - or more specifically up in the attic, I'm gonna need to do a hunt. I need to download forscan don't I?

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Oh by the way, Limp mode is when the cog with the exclamation mark comes on yes? I didn't have this, all I had was "engine systems fault" and no turbo during acceleration.... revs could still go high - but obviously slower due to no turbo. The speed capabilities were still there - I was getting to 40mph+ but again at a slower acceleration...

 

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No, limp mode is just reduced power and does come on with that message.  I had it with the glow plug fault.  Still managed 70mph eventually...until a hill where the lack of power became more evident lol.  I think it was max of 3500rpm but can't remember now.

 

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I don't think I had any rev limit, but I can't remember. I'll try and hunt out that blooming reader when I get a moment...

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As Tom says with the engine malfunction is reduced engine power to stop any damage occurring. That's why it feels like the turbo is not working. Fix the fault and power should be back to normal. Forscan is the best thing with an ELM interface as that can read most of all the ECU's or all of then if a modified cable.

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What a swine! Just jumped into the car, yep, revs are limited! 

I found the ELM327 doodah, that I bought donkeys years ago, plugged it in and realised that my computer is wondering wtf it is....drivers? (That's me innit??!?)

So I have FORScan installed and open, but no blooming driver for the blooming cabley doodah... ¬_¬ 

I'll keep hunting online for the driver, but if anyone knows how to save me from this misery quickly then I'd be appreciative http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/diagnostic-interface-elm-327.php I have the USB one, it also has a little 2 way toggle switch installed on it... not entirely sure wtf I'm doing here..

Running windows 7 64 bit...

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talking to someone who is struggling to remember what the thing is called, let alone what 64 bit actually is.... As I am sitting in the car with my laptop, connector and mobile wifi, is there anything I can achieve right now?

 

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Hmmm, Ok, managed to get stuff connected - I'm trying to figure this program out and I THINK, I've found a list of faults:
Code:

P1622-21 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match... I think this has been around for a while, not worried. - signal above max threshold

P193B-24 - Throttle/Pedal signal......under status it says - Previously Set DTC, malfuncction indicator lamp is off.... :S - no change in signal

P1936-24 - Clutch switch input circuit malfuction (same status as above) - no change in signal

P1402-21 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Metering Orifice Restricted (Same status as above) - signal above max threshold

P0405-22 - EGR sensor A Circuit Low - (same status as above) - Signal below min threshold

P0490-21 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit High - (same status) - Signal above max threshold

P1412-28 - EGR Valve Froze - (same status) - Invalid signal

P0489-22 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Low - (same status) - Signal below min threshold

P042E-22 - EGR Control Stuck Open - (same status) - Signal below min threshold

P042F-21 - EGR Control Stuck Closed - (same status) - Signal above max threshold...

 

 

Dear Lord where do I start ?!?!?! :?

Don't know whether any are old codes or new codes :/

For the record, I've not blanked the EGR, however the previous owner of this vehicle was fairly hands on, so he may have done.... not sure if those could throw up codes?

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i would clear the codes, drive the car and see if its still in limp mode, then rescan for codes , that will show you whats relevant and whats old codes

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Hmmm, nothing so far. It was only a quick drive - 10 minutes, power was back to normal, no issues there...

I didn't want to go far from home, but I'll nip to a shop (hopefully one is open haha) and see if anything flags up, otherwise I'll drive normally for the next few days and see if anything happens... 

I'm thinking of blanking the egr at some point anyway, so hopefully that might clear up a few potentially iffy problems. - unless I find it's already blanked by previous owner!!

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The EGR valve codes if they come back will need removing and cleaning out and then blanking off. I would also if it starts being sluggish again remove the connector from the EGR Valve myself. If it is that causing it to be sluggish it may help being unplugged and might not go into limp mode. Might throw up a few error codes but should not put it in limp mode.

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Well guys, yesterday was ok after faults were cleared. Jumped back in the car today and I think about 20 seconds after starting up I had the Engine systems fault warning come back.

Just got back and plugged the car in again:

P1412-68 - EGR Valve Frozen

P0489-22 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Low (? Dunno WTF that means!?)

P042E-22 - EGR Control Stuck Open

P0490-21 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit High

P042F-21 - EGR Control Stuck Closed

Those are the faults that appeared. So, all seems to point to a clogged up EGR (fun and games). This is a massive pain in the buttocks to resolve because there is only on street parking by mine and so it means hoiking a bunch of tools in the car - moving it to a space then setting loose on it (blanking the EGR is something I'm not 100% confident in doing either!)

Would love to park right outside (like I am now...) but it's on double yellows and will block neighbours :lol: - and knowing my luck and with the weather, the whole thing will take me more than a day to resolve!

 

......and here comes the rain....again.... -_-

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Chances are that if it is stuck judging by your error codes the EGR will need replacing for a new one. I have a spare one at home I bought that I can let you have for a good price if you need one. Saves time trying to clean it out.

You need to remove the scuttle panel under the windscreen for access the. Two bolts unplug connector and reassemble quite easy to do really just make sure you get the gasket in the right orientation.

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Probably cheaper to buy one of my spare EGR valves and replace and blank it at the same time. With blanking though you will still get an error code for orifice restriction. But that won't cause reduced power. But the other codes will continue to be a problem.

 

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Hey guys, thanks so much for your help so far.. So basically you're saying the EGR is properly clogged and therefore 2 outcomes:

1. May work after cleaning.

2. May be proper ****** even after cleaning.

I'm learning as I go here thanks to all your help. As I have access to another vehicle and not great access to spare cash, having the car laid up for a little while, while I attempt to clean the EGR might be a better option to start with, if you reckon that could work?

....secondly if that would work, how do I go about cleaning an egr?

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Remove the EGR and buy some Mr Muscle oven cleaner foam spray. Fill it with the foam and leave to soak for a decent period. Then I use an old toothbrush to get onto it working it around. Then wash it out. Gloves are a must it's messy. Should get it pretty clean. Then dry it and refit.

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