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HenryV

Fiesta 2006 1.4 Zetec timing belt change.

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Hi folks,

In the near future, I'm considering an attempt to change the timing belt/water pump/auxiliary belt/power steering belt on my (pre-facelift) 2006 Fiesta 1.4 Zetec (90 000 miles).

I've done quite a bit of research and whilst making no claim to be an expert car mechanic, I am a time served mechanical engineer, so I could maybe, claim a reasonable level of  mechanical competence (I recently changed the clutch on the girlfriend's 2006 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec).

When I begin, I'm hoping to post my progress on here with pics.

I'd truly appreciate any comments/help/suggestions from anybody with experience of tackling this job on the Zetec engines.

I have two opening thoughts/questions that I'd like to ask before I start buying parts:

1) Why do Ford/Haynes advise loosening the camshaft pulleys?

2) Do I need a flywheel locking tool when removing the crankshaft pulley bolt?  Ford/Haynes don't appear to mention one.

Thanks,

Henry..

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Hello Ian,

I intend to do the same on my 08 tdci 1.6 fiesta mk 6 and like you not sure of everything. If you # loosen the camshaft drive pulleys after inserting the camshaft timing positioner bar/ plate, the camshaft/s are in correct position and the crank would be tdc cyl 1. These engines do not have a 'keyed' crank timing belt gear. So once you slacken the front primary pulley you have lost timing /tdc as the drive gear is pinched by the outer pulley. Once you have fitted your new Belt, tensioner, waterpump?, idler? camshaft still in correct position. Next is to find tdc for the crankshaft, there is a pin to screw in for this so when you turn crank clockwise it will stop against the pin and be tdc. Now tighten primary pulley and cam puleys. you should have been careful not to have moved the crank when undoing the bottom pulley retaining bolt as some of the valves will be down/ open. Then again read on as this was the way on earlier engines.

There are a few unanswered items here and maybe someone with better knowledge will reply.  Is there a kit to lock the crankshaft solidly to enable removal and refitting of outer pulley and therefore maintaining, with camshaft locking bar, total timing?. This would make thing easier

# care is needed here as you can do damage to cam it may be possible to use a counter spanner  nearer to the pulley to take stress from the camshaft as a whole or lock the pulley.  Undoing the pulleys disables the  stress to cams..with lock fitted..when undoing lower pulley.

Come on there must be some mechanics out there who do this regularly with competence.

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Since my last recent post I have been in touch with my local Auto shop at Welshpool. Total cost around £100 including waterpump and cambelt kit so good so far. So not trying to hijack your post but this will give you some idea of the cost for spares.

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9 hours ago, HenryV said:

1) Why do Ford/Haynes advise loosening the camshaft pulleys?

2) Do I need a flywheel locking tool when removing the crankshaft pulley bolt?  Ford/Haynes don't appear to mention one.

 

When it comes to Fiestas I've only ever done the 1.25L, but assuming it's similar or the same:

1. As Frund says the pulleys are all floating so no keyways. Loosening the camshaft pulleys allows them to sit comfortably in the right place once everything is locked up with the timing tools. You could just trust the previous timing setup and leave them as they are but if you're going to the effort of doing the job you may as well do it properly!

2. They may well be using an impact wrench which doesn't necessarily need the crankshaft locking in place given the near-instantaneous application of torque.

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I can see what your saying MJ Newton. This makes sense. 

Its a shame you're so far away Ian. We could have helped each other. Your car first in case we make a cockup of course :smile:

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You can remove the starter and fit a locking tool if you wish, probably a better option for anyone who has little experience of timing belts to be fair.

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Thanks frund & MJN,

I really appreciate your input on this project.

Frund's comment;  'So once you slacken the front primary pulley you have lost timing /tdc as the drive gear is pinched by the outer pulley' seems to make complete sense to me and appears to answer my first question. I knew that the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulleys were keyless but I assumed that the 'drive gear' would've been fixed in position one way or another. Now I understand this, I'm better prepared. Thanks frund.

I don't for a minute consider that you're hijacking my post frund. I appreciate your help. I've pretty much sourced all my parts however, but to be honest, I'm not overly concerned about the cost of the parts; It's more about the challenge for me. I also don't want to buy a newer car with all the modern electronic claptrap, as I reckon they're becoming self unserviceable and I'd be hence held at ransom by the dealers. I value simplicity. :wink3:

As for my second question, we appear to have the same doubts;  I can't believe that the 'special' locking tool (Ford 303-748) will withstand the ridiculous force it takes to loosen a crankshaft pulley bolt?

You commented, 'it may be possible to use a counter spanner nearer to the pulley'.  I think I've got that one covered. Check out Ford 'special' tool No. 205-072. I have the Ford instructions for a timing belt change by the way. If you need them, I'll do my best to send them to you, but instruction No.4 simply says 'Remove the crankshaft pulley'. Simple as that?

I'm not even going to start ordering the parts until I'm confident that I can safely remove the crankshaft pulley. Any help out there?

Thanks MJN,

I very much agree with your comment, 'but if you're going to the effort of doing the job you may as well do it properly!'. I'm 'gonna' do my best, believe me.

I have often used impact drives and they're superb tools but I ain't going to undo that pulley bolt without holding/stopping/clamping the crankshaft.

Thanks again for now folks. I'll update soon,

H..

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Don't worry frund,

My car first is fine. :smile:

I'll keep you updated and I'll relay my findings and/or mistakes but it ain't going to be a quick job. I haven't as yet, even ordered any parts. By the way, my girlfriend and my close friend have identical cars, so if I'm successful, I'll probably end up doing the job three times. It's already looking like I have another clutch job to do on my friends Fiesta! :mellow:

 

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1 hour ago, stef123 said:

You can remove the starter and fit a locking tool if you wish, probably a better option for anyone who has little experience of timing belts to be fair.

Thanks stef123,

I'm inclined to agree and was considering researching the availability of such a tool. I think I read a post by you on these forums where you had posted a successful belt change on a 1.25 Zetec engine? May I ask how you went about removing the crankshaft pulley bolt? Did you use a flywheel locking tool?

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frund, as yours is tdci 1.6 , then any timing procedures for the 1.25 or 1.4/1.6 petrol is not relevant to your diesel. actualy your diesel is one of the easiest to do

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5 hours ago, HenryV said:

 

Thanks stef123,

I'm inclined to agree and was considering researching the availability of such a tool. I think I read a post by you on these forums where you had posted a successful belt change on a 1.25 Zetec engine? May I ask how you went about removing the crankshaft pulley bolt? Did you use a flywheel locking tool?

Yup, the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec engines are all the same to do and seem to be a favourite considering the amount of them i have done! 

I can email you some pics if interested if you pm me your email. 

I have a Milwaukee m18 fuel impact gun that rips the crank bolts out for fun but if you only have a breaker bar is suggest putting some heat on the bolt first to break the bond - I used to have to do this with my old impact gun.

i used to use the flywheel locking tool, for the extra 5 mins to unbolt the starter it was a good insurance that nothing is going to move or bed managed by putting the force on the timing pin. 

 

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I have now found friendly car restorer #(escorts RS somethings he has done a few complete rebuilds powder coating etc) who will lend me his battery impact gun (friend of a close friend van man) 'this will undo everything'. So a bit of luck there already.

Ian if you could get hold of one of these it would make life easier. These are espensive bits of kit £250 second hand so out of my reach.# this is what he paid. 

as MJ Newton said with the impact tool the crank will barely move and therefore no damage will occur. Easy then to get to TDC the rest is easy. Common High pressure rail for my tdci so no pump to time.

About 1 month away for me 

I look forward to hearing how you go on Ian/ HenryV.

 

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Thanks stef & frund,

I've pm'd my email address to you stef.

I do have a beefy impact wrench I'm intending to use frund. My dad & I used it to remove the (ludicrously tight) pulley bolt from his VW Golf a couple of years ago.

Please forgive my scepticism stef but I'm pretty certain that I'm going to lock the flywheel as I can hardly believe that the bolt can be removed without clamping/holding the crankshaft?

 

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6 hours ago, frund said:

I have now found friendly car restorer #(escorts RS somethings he has done a few complete rebuilds powder coating etc) who will lend me his battery impact gun (friend of a close friend van man) 'this will undo everything'. So a bit of luck there already.

Ian if you could get hold of one of these it would make life easier. These are espensive bits of kit £250 second hand so out of my reach.# this is what he paid. 

as MJ Newton said with the impact tool the crank will barely move and therefore no damage will occur. Easy then to get to TDC the rest is easy. Common High pressure rail for my tdci so no pump to time.

About 1 month away for me 

I look forward to hearing how you go on Ian/ HenryV.

 

Tell him it's not as powerful as a milwaukee gun, that'll upset him because it's true and it cost twice as much :lol: 

 

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1 hour ago, HenryV said:

Thanks stef & frund,

I've pm'd my email address to you stef.

I do have a beefy impact wrench I'm intending to use frund. My dad & I used it to remove the (ludicrously tight) pulley bolt from his VW Golf a couple of years ago.

Please forgive my scepticism stef but I'm pretty certain that I'm going to lock the flywheel as I can hardly believe that the bolt can be removed without clamping/holding the crankshaft?

 

If your using an impact gun it's quite easy to undo the pulley bolt without the tendency for it to try and turn. 

I'll send you some pictures shortly 

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it's a shame they are not all like the 1.6tdci engine in my old 2007 fiesta. Round the back of the flywheel low down there is a hole. you slide a big bolt in there which engages with a hole in the back of the flywheel to lock it so you can undo the pulley. Why can't they all be like this?

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the 1.6 tdci doesnt need an impact gun, ive even undone those crank bolts with a spanner and soft blow hammer.

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26 minutes ago, iantt said:

the 1.6 tdci doesnt need an impact gun, ive even undone those crank bolts with a spanner and soft blow hammer.

So not the BFH then? 

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Thanks for your replies/comments and your interest in this thread folks,

Stef, I concede that the Milwaukee gun is probably superior to mine, but now is not the time to be comparing tools  :biggrin:

Is there any chance stef, that you could post your 'step by step' method of removing the crankshaft pulley bolt without the flywheel locking tool?

Do you restrict/hold the crankshaft in any way?

 

Isetta: 'you slide a big bolt in there which engages with a hole in the back of the flywheel to lock it so you can undo the pulley. Why can't they all be like this?'

I agree. If only!

 

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8 hours ago, HenryV said:

Thanks for your replies/comments and your interest in this thread folks,

Stef, I concede that the Milwaukee gun is probably superior to mine, but now is not the time to be comparing tools  :biggrin:

Is there any chance stef, that you could post your 'step by step' method of removing the crankshaft pulley bolt without the flywheel locking tool?

Do you restrict/hold the crankshaft in any way?

 

Isetta: 'you slide a big bolt in there which engages with a hole in the back of the flywheel to lock it so you can undo the pulley. Why can't they all be like this?'

I agree. If only!

 

Are you using an impact gun to remove or the old fashioned way? 

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there is another way I have done it on other cars years ago. This can be risky and if you chose to do it then it is obviously at your own risk.

Disconnect the ignition system so the car can not start.

Put a big long ring spanner on the pulley bolt so the spanner is in about the four o'clock position. Put something under the end of spanner (eg. concrete block etc) so it won't move clockwise. Now turn the ignition key so that the starter motor turns for a second. Only a second or less!    (This does of course assume that the pulley on the end of your engine turns clockwise when running and assumes you can get a ring spanner on the bolt, I do not know if recessed)

This has always undone the bolt when I have done it this way.

However, if the spanner slips there could be damage to the bolt and other stuff if the spanner files off in anger, and it probably puts quite a strain on the starter motor/cogs also.

AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

Also, I don't know if on modern cars you can disconnect the ignition and still make the starter motor work. These modern cars have so  much electrical stuff interlinked. (I suppose you could take the spark plugs out but leave them still connected then the electronics would not detect anything was disconnected).

AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!  I AM NOT RECOMENDING THIS METHOD, I AM ONLY SAYING I HAVE DONE IT THIS WAY

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Recognising the healthy sprinkling of warnings there it is also worth adding that whilst you might get away with this method for cranks with keyed shafts it really would be asking for trouble on the Zetec given its floating pulleys. The reason is that without keyways the moment the bolt tension is released there is nothing keeping the pulley locked in place and so it is free to turn. The continuing rotation of the crank (even for a fraction of a turn) risks causing a collision with any open valves as the camshafts won't be turning with it.

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Thanks guys,

I'm currently minded to use the flywheel locking tool and to use the impact gun on the bolt.

If I don't lock the flywheel and just use the gun, does the crankshaft need any sort of clamping/restriction?

If so, how do you clamp/hold the crankshaft without the flywheel locked?

 

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