On ‎3‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 11:11 PM, Yungog said:

All I had to do was 

Read from gem

Tick cruise control

Write to gem

Read from hec

Tick cruise control

Write to hec

Read pcm

Tick cruise control configuration

Write to pcm.

Thats all that was needed for mine to work.

No messing with firmware.

you "never do it this way" as you have NO back up of the cars engine map and immobiliser in case you have a comms issue or make a mistake doing the job

yes its simple, but the risk is far too high ….  the right process and the tools buttons should say

1) READ vehicle PCM bin file (config) - so its visible to the user 

4) SAVE a copy of vehicle PCM bin file - so you have an unmolested back up, in case of comms errors, vehicle power, laptop power, user error, other tech issues in the future

3) OPEN a saved PCM bin file - with a back up safe, edit cruise settings on another copy of this bin file, (the tools bad button naming and messages cause the empty vid block error)

2) WRITE current PCM bin file to vehicle - write your newly modified copy back to the car

 

On 3/16/2018 at 12:05 AM, Dan P said:

Here are a set of instructions that I wrote for someone else (possibly @wilto)that was having difficulty with the PCM:

 

On the Information Page select “Read” in order to determine the module type (ESU-131 
in my case). 
 
Click on “Procedures” then “Page 2”
Select the PCM type as identified on the information page from the drop-down menu. 
Then select “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file”
You will get a warning about disabling power saving and screen saver. Click OK. 
This next step may take some time and you may feel decidedly anxious whilst you wait –
I certainly did – it took 78 minutes to read the PCM. 
Then select “Load firmware from PHF/HEX/BIN-file”. 
You will get a warning about a non-empty VID block – select “No”. 
 
Click on “Configuration”
Ticked the box for “Integrated speed control”. 
 
Click on “Procedures” to switch back to the procedures page. 
Turn the ignition off. 
Switch it back on to position 2. 
Then select “Write current firmware to PCM”. I think it was at this stage that I was asked 
if I wanted to use the current configuration for the PCM – I selected “Yes”. 
This stage took about 15 minutes. 
Click on “Configuration”. 
Click on “Read from PCM”. 
Click on “Save to file” and save it to laptop. 
Check that “Integrated Speed Control” box is ticked. 
Click on “Write to PCM”. 

 

Thank you so much for this post! I was stuck with the activation of the cruise control in my Ford Focus MK2.5 and your post saved the day. Now the cruise control works great!

On 3/16/2018 at 1:05 AM, Dan P said:

Here are a set of instructions that I wrote for someone else (possibly @wilto)that was having difficulty with the PCM:

 

On the Information Page select “Read” in order to determine the module type (ESU-131 
in my case). 
 
Click on “Procedures” then “Page 2”
Select the PCM type as identified on the information page from the drop-down menu. 
Then select “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file”
You will get a warning about disabling power saving and screen saver. Click OK. 
This next step may take some time and you may feel decidedly anxious whilst you wait –
I certainly did – it took 78 minutes to read the PCM. 
Then select “Load firmware from PHF/HEX/BIN-file”. 
You will get a warning about a non-empty VID block – select “No”. 
 
Click on “Configuration”
Ticked the box for “Integrated speed control”. 
 
Click on “Procedures” to switch back to the procedures page. 
Turn the ignition off. 
Switch it back on to position 2. 
Then select “Write current firmware to PCM”. I think it was at this stage that I was asked 
if I wanted to use the current configuration for the PCM – I selected “Yes”. 
This stage took about 15 minutes. 
Click on “Configuration”. 
Click on “Read from PCM”. 
Click on “Save to file” and save it to laptop. 
Check that “Integrated Speed Control” box is ticked. 
Click on “Write to PCM”. 

 

Thanks. Works great. Last "write to pcm" give an error but cruse control activated..

Hi, firstly thanks for all the info on activating cc on the mk2 focus on this thread.😄 Mine is a 2010 1.6tdci 

Steering wheel £40, £22 for the modified USB OBDII adapter and used ElmConfig 0.2.17b. 

Works great and a mind blowing cheap upgrade which is pretty easy to install with all thing's considered.

Just a quick question. When cc is on should pressing the clutch pedal to change gear cut the cc the same and immediate way it does when the brake is pressed?

When I press the clutch to change gear on mine it over revs then cuts cc. Was wondering if the clutch pedal sensor was faulty.

Thanks for any info

 

 

 

 

51 minutes ago, Chris001 said:

Just a quick question. When cc is on should pressing the clutch pedal to change gear cut the cc the same and immediate way it does when the brake is pressed?

When I press the clutch to change gear on mine it over revs then cuts cc. Was wondering if the clutch pedal sensor was faulty.

Thanks for any info

Yes.  On the plus side, you can use your new cable with Forscan to check the clutch switch operation!

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes.  On the plus side, you can use your new cable with Forscan to check the clutch switch operation!

Thanks for that, will have a go with Forscan and check it. Cheers

mine doesn't rev,

all cruise controls cut on clutch or brake actuation and many if the throttle is used wide open or a long way down for more than x amount of time (never tested than operation on the focus)

what staggered me was a guy at work with the active cruise on his golf says you can change up or down and it then resumes where it left off !!!

48 minutes ago, Botus said:

what staggered me was a guy at work with the active cruise on his golf says you can change up or down and it then resumes where it left off !!!

The later MK4 Focus also does this, even on normal cruise...I've complained about it in another thread.

I like to drop a gear and 'roll' up to crossings etc...  Ended up flying towards pedestrians after lifting the clutch!

 

On 4/23/2021 at 11:42 AM, TomsFocus said:

Yes.  On the plus side, you can use your new cable with Forscan to check the clutch switch operation!

Ok so replacement clutch pedal switch or position sensor came today and fitted it and it solved both the rev hanging when changing gear and the cc cuts straight away like the brake does.

Thanks for the help with this issue...all sorted👍👍👍

i bought a scanner modified versión 2.1

I cant make it Word with elmconfig.

It says link with adaptar facture...

I Want to tick the integrated speed control in activación of Cruise control focus mk2...its imposible to conect. Please help me.

not all cables are created equal - some cheap ones fail to communicate correctly - doing cruise is big boy deep level messing with the car - you need the right kit, the right voltage and the right process - bad info programmed at the car can easily cause your car not to start. 

also check voltage is high - many bricked ECUs (killed and now broken) come from playing with low voltage (merc and BM won't programme unless over 14v), do it at 11 volt as you sit key on, slowly trying to understand what to do, and you muddle the programming so its not coming back to life for anyone - this is  ALL TO COMMON

there are two steps, tick a box and save (if the toggle switch - on a cheap cable - is on the wrong can bus speed the car says go away idiot).
the second step is playing with the engine map and immobiliser info - you don't want to get this wrong for obvious reasons

 

TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF THE TOOLS YOU SHOULD USE TO DO THIS TYPE OF WORK - HERE'S THE TOY WE SHOULD ALL USE TO KEEP THE VOLTAGE STABLE

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/13562-sip-150a-battery-support-unit/

 

 

Followed the above and yes it works,,,one thing i will ask is,,,,,pressing the on button does not illuminate the speed indicator in the cluster but as soon as i set a speed it lights up,is this the correct operation of the system ?

The off, resume and +/- buttons all operate correctly so happy enough

On 11/6/2022 at 12:59 PM, gannett03 said:

Followed the above and yes it works,,,one thing i will ask is,,,,,pressing the on button does not illuminate the speed indicator in the cluster but as soon as i set a speed it lights up,is this the correct operation of the system ?

The off, resume and +/- buttons all operate correctly so happy enough

I think its the correct operation, kind of weird, having no indication when you turn it on. What adaptor OBD have you used?

On 3/5/2019 at 2:57 PM, Botus said:

you "never do it this way" as you have NO back up of the cars engine map and immobiliser in case you have a comms issue or make a mistake doing the job

yes its simple, but the risk is far too high ….  the right process and the tools buttons should say

1) READ vehicle PCM bin file (config) - so its visible to the user 

4) SAVE a copy of vehicle PCM bin file - so you have an unmolested back up, in case of comms errors, vehicle power, laptop power, user error, other tech issues in the future

3) OPEN a saved PCM bin file - with a back up safe, edit cruise settings on another copy of this bin file, (the tools bad button naming and messages cause the empty vid block error)

2) WRITE current PCM bin file to vehicle - write your newly modified copy back to the car

 

What ELM adaptor have you used?

ELM327(modified) lead for use with FORScan (older vehicles only)

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Maybe its just me but i find cruise control scary, after an incident many moons ago with a Rover SD1, not wanting to release after blasting down the motorway, i missed the junction i needed lol

 

Does it have FEPS 18v? 

A 2009 vehicle does not use the 18V programming.

If you want a lead that supports FEPS 18V programming then you need the new vLinker FS cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP/ref=asc_df_B0952P4MLP/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=534732308385&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9978788094148090623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006688&hvtargid=pla-1430824679036&psc=1

yep the ODBlink EX is now behind the curve to the Vlinker

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/

always start with the latest firmware on the device - they are ALL still working out how they should always have been communicating with cars correctly....

On 3/14/2018 at 6:58 PM, Tambros said:

Ford Focus II 2010 - ELM Config 0.2.17c

Hi guys, I'm trying to activate cruise control on my car. I managed to activate it in GEM and HEC but struggling in the PCM. Getting error non-empty VID block found in the PCM module. 

Here is a video of what i'm doing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODUdxjR7uvY

If someone can point out what i'm doing wrong would be very appreciated. 

This link no longer works...

should i get a v-linker or stay with my tunnelrat, i play on mine and others cars, and not come up against any issues thus far. does the v-linker have an MS/HS switch or is it auto ?

all modern ones worth buying auto switch - yes you can do basic stuff up to and including cruise on a Mk2 with a manual switch - but other stuff has to flip flop back and forth to programme (and it needs to do this at speed hence the need for auto switching).

I thought they are just discovering old stuff as far back as 2007 did actually needed 18v feps and hence why they have never recco'd flashing modules with later SW on the early stuff (as it kept failing...)

no point today not buying 18v feps and auto switching support - its so affordable why bother with old junk

£35    https://www.bmdiag.co.uk/ford-diagnostic-tool-vlinker-fs-usb-diagnostic-cable

NOTE: the now "obsolete" odblink EX (coz it can't do 18v feps)  just got a Feb 2024 firmware update

3 hours ago, Jimpster said:

should i get a v-linker or stay with my tunnelrat,

If you are doing work on Ford vehicles 2013 onwards you would be advised to use the vLinker FS cable so that you can be sure that it has full access to all modules.

vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

I was JUST reading forscan forum and came across two bits of info thought I'd share - this (bold below) is the same as I experienced when I did it

Quote

If you wrote this after reading my PCM Update+CC activation post (https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25975), I only have to say that they are not necessarily similar PCMs. Both indeed have VID Block "arquitecture", but there´s a mayor difference: Mine does not require firmware flashing to make desired changes. In other Ford Focus MK2.5s, in order to active CC in PCM, you had to load a new firmware with CC enabled. In my case, just made the changes in "easy mode" with drop down menu.

Regards.

and in further info, where he had used latest forscan to enable CC on a Focus Mk2.5 - he had bugs - which are now fixed in a new beta release he was sent by support 24 March 2024

Quote

During the process I cleared doubts regarding SBL and Firmware with FORScan Support Team, whom I'm really gratefull for their orientation and kind support, since they also provided with a 2.4.12 Testbuild that corrected a checksum on PCM VID Block about Axle and wheel size reading (As you can see in my previous comments they appeard as "Incorrect value or not configured").

 

 

Just jumping on this post as there seems to be a lot of info here around carrying out the Cruise Control activation. 
 

I’ve tried Forscan but can’t use that to activate cruise control as the option isn’t there. 
 

I’ve had a play with ElmConfig but it scares the crap out of me! Too many times has it occasionally come up with Engine malfunction and there’s me sitting panicking go oh s*** I’ve bricked my ECU. Thankfully after just after turning the key on and off it comes back to life.

One of the issues I am having is I don’t think the adapter I have is up to scratch to perform any form of programming ad the baud rate / speed is too low. 
 

In the absence of a tunnelrat electronics device what else will work? And I mean is very well made not cheap. Has good connectivity and success with programming. 
 

At the moment I can’t read the PCM as the baud rate is too low with the (cheap) ELM327 Controller I’ve got off Amazon.

I’ve seen that it’s likely I’ll have to take a copy of the BIN file then modify it and reuplod and during this process of there are any errors it will brick the ECU so need a tried and tested reliable controller that won’t mess up during this critical process!

I’ve seen that the OBD LINK EX might be one to use?

I’ve got a V LINKER FS USB adapter but this doesn’t work with ELMCONFIG.