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The 1.8 Zetec Flex Fuel (Petrol/LPG) did have a modified cilinder head. The modifications to the cilinder head basically only consists of machining the valve seats area and installation of harder/more durable valve seat inserts to reduce valve seat regression. Despite the more durable valve seats the seats will still wear relatively quick. On the 1.8 Zetec LPG engine It is recommended to check the valve adjustment and if necessary adjust it every other service. At some point it will no longer be possible to adjust the valve clearance. This may well be the case on the vehicle you test drove. Excessive valve regression can only be solved by a complete engine head rebuild. In case of excessive valve regression the engine may currently still run fine on petrol but it may not in the near future. Next to this you must consider that the LPG system installed on these cars is pretty outdated. The technology is pretty old and It does not have a valve lubrication system to reduce valve/valve seat wear. Most currently available LPG conversion systems are much more advanced and reliable. When buying this car you have to calculate the costs of a cilinder head rebuild which can be pretty expensive. Personally I would just seach for a similar petrol version.

Kevin Bridges is brilliant! His accent is a wee bit 'thick' right enough though

No need to swear, that's bad attitude cheerio, I'll know if I get a reply you haven't deleted your account lol

The top of the airbox is rubber so I think the mark you can see is where the bonnet insulation rests on top of it. The top of the airbox is still open so air gets in from the front

Cheers for that Lenny mate! Where would that switch go? I was thinking of getting one like on the RS models. Picture attached. Just sent a message to Tezza on here to see if he will be able to help me in the future to get them working with the FOB.👍

this is what any diesel focus owner could do with, it fits between your primer and fuel line to high pressure fuel pump. so when priming your pushing any air through to pump and out the return pipe to tank. makes priming a doddle to do on 1.6tdci mk2 and mk3 . made it up out some old dpf fluid kit, and a high pressure fuel blanking off kit . drilled hole through the purple blank. fits perfectly. also good for 1.8 tdci on the return connector on pump(with purple blank off ) to suck air out of system

Maybe worth checking fordpartsuk.com for a price on them aswell there genuine dealership I've found them sometimes cheaper than my local dealership too. Mirror Switch: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_electricheatedfolding_mirror_switch_f_1472023.htm Left Side power fold mirror unit: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_lh_electricheated_foldback_mirror_from_2009_to_2011_f_1698918.htm Right Side power fold mirror unit: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_rh_electric_heated_foldback_mirror_from_2009_to_2011_f_1698917.htm The cost of the mirrors are not likely to drop any time soon because the mk3 focus has exactly the same mirror units as the mk2.5

Yup, I tried programming my current remote in the car (serveral times) but the current remote seems to be dead, since nothing happens when I press any buttons still. Yes, I have changed batteries twice but to no avail. But I ordered a new remote yesterday so hopefully that will work. I will return when I get it in a few days and report if it works! Thanks for the information on WD40/white lithium grease as well. Thanks for now and Happy New Year guys! :-)

I use afermarket HID lights in combination with projector headlights for about 12 Years now without any major problems. I used them on my focus MK1, Focus MK2 and Focus MK3. The only problems I ever had in 12 Years were 2x a defective HID ballast and 2X a defective HID bulb. I currently use a set of 35 Watt 4300K aftermarket HID lights in combination with a set of aftermarket Sky-Wing headlights. These headlights have H7 projectors which are prepared for H7 HID bulbs. These headlights are not cheap but in my opinion definetely worth every penny. The light output and beam pattern of these projector headlights can be compared with OEM HID lights. My headlight setup is fully legal. I live in the Netherlands and the Dutch law does not require automatic headlight height adjustment or headlight washers. The only regulation is that the beam pattern must comply to the applicable standard and the lights are not allowed to blind other traffic. Correctly installed/adjusted projector headlights with HID bulbs fully comply to these regulations. About 99% of all aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts that are sold in Europe and the UK are made in Asia. These are often just Chinese or Korean products that ere rebranded with a European/UK brand name. Because of this I decided to buy my HID ballasts and bulbs from Ebay instead of an expensive European seller. I only use H7 HID bulbs with a metal base. These are generally higher quality and easier to install than the H7 HID bulbs with a plastic base. I always have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare H7 HID bulbs on stock. This way I can replace a defective ballast or bulb immediately.

Firstly thanks. As for exhausts first tips were for temp as they didnt have these in stock. So was going to be changed in regards.the phase 1 st alloys will now be winter use. once summer comes the new ones are going to be sprayed & used then only. Re powerfold mirrors. You will need 1. a pair of powerfold mirrors 2. Switch ( dont have to use the same type. Can use mk3 type which on mirror adjust toggle type. On mine i had to add 3 wires to door module drivers side. But later Tezza found a better route to do this.by only using 1 wire. You then need to enable it in ecu either thru elm327 or fords. But at this stage it will still only fold when switch is pressed on the door. In order to powerfold you need to enable via using ucds programme.which uses credits to proceed . My mate did this for me. ( Tezza on ffoc). I hope this gives you some idea whats needed. Bear in mind i bought mirror at £65 each off ebay which was a steel than the switch around £45. I used my stock casing & had to buy puddle lamp bulbs. Powerfold morrors might cost you around £100 each used on ebay if your lucky. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I like the view from the office window AKA truck windscreen, this morning.

Ooh your poor car! I just pay the few quid for delivery if i cant fit it in the boot. Usually get it dropped off for free though for being a good customer! I think someone might be overfilling your fuel tank!

The wiring loom going into the hatch from the roof has a tendency for the insulation on the wires to get brittle with time, this results in the wires snapping and shorting over, causing problems with the boot electrics. Common symptoms are- Rear wiper not returning to it's park position on the intermittent wipe function. The high-level (third) brake light does not function. The boot lock opens itself when the engine is running leading on later to the boot lock not releasing when the interior button or keyfob button are pressed due to the lock solenoids burning out because of the constant power via a short circuit. Rear demister element stops working.

lol

They tried to pull him over, he just accelerated hard and left them high n dry on a pile of plasterboard lol

Hi there I have a Ford Focus 08 MK2 and I was wanting to put some duffest body skirts and front bumper on, wondering if anyone could help with what kinds of parts I should look for. Thanks

think peter was just pointing out auto trans vehicles wont work that way due to engine not turning over.

quite normal, certain colours do give more of an apperance of different shades. been asked the same question 100's of times by ford owners.

So just because you havent noticed it before then it doesnt happen? It does unfortunately. I did ask if it had paintwork as that is another possibility. I was a car salesman at Fords and seen the bumper shades often but more noticable on certain colours. Here is a picture of my wifes old Punto that i mentioned, it never had any paintwork and the bumpers appeared off shade from certain angles. Certain paint finishes can also appear different if the paint was laid on at a different angle. This could happen to the bumpers if they are sprayed off the car lying flat as opposed to the car being in the upright position.

Rack Packed

Ideal if you have factory fitted alarm aswell as folding mirrors I suppose😅 mine's just blank as standard, I've a Clifford G5 fitted not factory system.

You have my sympathy, as I have experienced exactly this difficulty priming my 1.8tdci. The way I now do it is to replace the filter in the housing with the new one and then top up to the brim with fuel. I then introduce fuel very carefully into the rigid plastic inlet pipe to the pump using a small jug with a little spout. You've got to pour slowly to allow air to come out of the pipe as you fill it up. Once this pipe is full I get an assistant to blow compressed air into the fuel filler (at the rear of the car- where you normally put fuel in). To make a good seal around the airline into the filler neck I wrap a damp cotton rag - this way you can pressurise the tank just enough to force fuel through without overpressurising and doing damage. Whilst my assistant is pressurising the fuel tank I am holding a jug under the pipe that comes from the outlet side of the fuel filter. Once the fuel is flowing bubble free, I reconnect this pipe to the pipe to the pipe I previously filled that goes to the high pressure pump. Keep the fuel flowing whilst reconnecting these pipes. This seems like a faff, but I always get mine to start this way. It's much better than all the time and frustration I had the first time I changed my fuel filter. I hope the gentleman above who is a novice mechanic isn't put off by his experience of changing the filter. It is a tricky job to get the engine started unless you know how to reprime the system. And as the other gentleman said regarding dirt, take care to work clean when priming the inlet to the pump with a jug. Scrupulously clean. Good luck with it. David

I also like receiving my FOC pack after paying the renewal fee! I can finally get some FOC stickers on the MK1 and start promoting it around Moray.

Number Plate

You should get that patented. I'd buy one ;)

Yep, it all relies on the diesel pump being able to suck fuel up from the fuel tank. Once it is fully primed with diesel, it has no trouble doing this, but the clearances in the 1st stage of the pump are big enough so it will not work on air, at least not at cranking speed. It is almost impossible to avoid introducing some air, as the filter is higher than the tank (unless you park on the steep hill facing down!), so any time a pipe is disconnected, fuel will try to run back to the tank, drawing in air. Simon's clamps might help, but on my car the pipes are not rubber, they are a semi-rigid plastic, and might be damaged by clamping up tightly. A bit more than that, really. You need to get fuel right inside the pump, and pushing it in with a priming bulb or handpump capable of pumping (as well as sucking) is the best way. As I said, I prefer to do this working from the inlet side of the filter to reduce the risk of pushing contamination into the injection pump. The second, high pressure stage has extremely close tolerances, and metal seats that are easy to damage. Same for the injectors. The first time I changed my filter, it took two days to re-start the car, and I had to rig up a pump to pressure prime it. The pump I had was for air, so I rigged up a marmalade jar (contents eaten & jar cleaned up!), with air tight pipes in the top as a diesel reservoir, and then pressurised the jar with air to force the fuel into the pump. It was a bit complicated and messy, but it worked. The second time I did the job, I planned it and used a priming bulb. it started, stopped once, I pumped a couple more times, and it started with no more fuss, just like normal.

Glay they replaced like for like! The last thing you want is them putting the rear end back to standard. After all your hard work. Colour match looks good too 👍 Take it easy on the back. Plenty of rest is needed. Dont want future problems. Nothing worse than back pain.

loving the seats fella and look so much more comfy

I forgot to add that bit, im hungover!!! Looks like white lithium grease to me too.

The trouble with the Mountune package is that at around £950 you only get 200bhp. For around £350 you can have the same power with a Superchips Bluefin unit. I think an uprated intercooler is more a necessity if youre chasing 240+ bhp but not for a mere additional 20bhp over standard.

yeah buddy they ordered from same place as me and fitted all to my standard! and thanks buddy its what a was going for Exactly mate! because Adrian flux replaces like for like they did that and as above you seen my case a didnt want a massive pay out to get a new car a wanted a like for like product and glad i got it back! alot of work into it i said to his insurance do you even know how much work i put into this car a said just 5days before a spent 11hours cleaning it claybar glaze wax etc too! yeah 4 ppl were in the car at the time but one didnt get hurt (he was a heavy set lad so took impact better i guess) but rest of us got soft neck and back tissue damage been a few months now and im still sore from my back now asked docs said it takes upto 18month to fully heal the spine! Defo buddy so glad a got it back! had a hyundai i10 for 2months!

On the focus MK1/MK1.5 the instrument cluster is a standalone module. It is not paired/synchronized to any other module and it also not part of the PATS immobilizer system. The PATS system of the focus MK1/MK1.5 is fully integrated into the PCM. The instrument cluster of a focus MK1/MK1.5 can be changed without any problems. Even without a instrument cluster connected at all the car will be driveable. When buying a used instrument cluster you should search for one that has more or less the same mileage as your car. If the mileage is more or less the same there is no need to pay for a mileage correction.

Just a thought but what about using hose clamps on all pipes before removing the filter, then fill filter up with diesel and in theory there should be very little air in the lines as the fuel should not draw back into the tank etc. Then it should I use should start fairly easy?? This is a job I really ought to do on mine sooner rather than later as I have no idea when it was last changed and all these horror stories about getting them started after makes me put off doing it lol

The way I got mine going (1.8, but can be just as awkward), was to use a priming bulb or handpump in the line into the filter (the line from the tank), to ram fuel into the filter and though that into the pump. Partially release the pipe on the outlet side of the filter to allow any air to escape, then refit and pump hard before cranking. Keep repeating until it runs. This is a Ford recommended system, and it reduces the risk of introducing dirt into the pump or injectors, as most of the job is done prior to the filter, so it removes any particles. The injection pump is after the filter. It is almost completely unable to suck air, so once air reaches it, it must be aided by pumping fuel into it. There is no tank pump. I definitely do not recommend touching any of the high pressure (rigid metal) pipes or fittings. The high pressure side is self priming, and any interference here is a good way to get dirt or swarf into the injectors, or cause leaks. Once the main pump gets a good supply of fuel, it will work fine, and suck more from the tank, and push it through to the injectors. There are return pipes from each injector and the pump to the tank, that will vent any air in the high pressure side. As Focusoap says, do not crank for more than a few seconds, rest it for a minute or so between attempts, and keep charging the battery. Better to take a bit longer than to wreck the starter motor or battery. I do not like easy-start except in real emergencies, on diesels. There is a small risk of damage to glowplugs or even injectors by the uncontrolled ignitions in the cylinders. These ignitions are likely to happen well before top dead center, due to the high compression ratio. They could turn into damaging detonations (pinking).

Driver Download

Pain Relief

Wes it's not mine but one I saw in a showroom a few months ago

3.5hrs to go, not that I'm counting. Lol

Someone up here lost one on Christmas day! Brand new Chrimbo pressie and decided to try it out.........in the middle of Storm Barbara! You shouldn't laugh, but......

yer sorry,, wife was talking to me while granddaughter was crying,,, roughly 23-24 kg for a half inch thick board,,,, doh I've carried plenty of em in my time,,, wish they were 8kg then lol

An 8x4 sheet of what? Lol. A standard of 12.5mm plasterboard is not far off 25kg.

I have done so many over the years that i fitted one of these in my shed

If you bring the car to Fife i'll help with removing the engine lol

Would appreciate that, I think mine is on the drivers side, but i'm thinking the same thing, with the age and milage of both they shouldn't really of worn.

Don't forget to change the water pump + tensioners as well when the belt is done.

The reality is most belts won't snap even shortly after their 'best before' date/mileage... It's really just a guess as every car is driven and stored differently anyway, Ford can't possibly say exactly how long a belt will last, how could they do 100,000 mile or 10 year test in real world conditions before releasing the car on the market? There are some engines that are known for snapping belts early (I've known GTi6s snap belts before 30k!) but I'm not sure I've read of any modern Fiesta or Focus belt failing early? The risk is that IF the belt did fail, it's a huge inconvenience and cost to sort out...so its up to the owner to decide if it's worth spending the money changing it early for peace of mind or not.

Officially 100K miles or ten years, get it changed at 50K miles.

Hi the conversion from Mk2 to Mk2.5 Ford audio unit is pretty simple. I did it in around 45mins. You need the Oval fascia, and brackets for the new unit, as the new unit screws in. I found the screws were the pain to sort, as ford dont stock them (or say they dont). I finally went to B+Q and bought a small packet of the fattest, and shortest self tappers, and used them. This website has step by step pictures of the process with Ford part numbers if the stuff you need, so you dont need to confuse the Fords storeman. hope that helps..., BTW, I am sure that the unit you have seen on E-bay will also need a curved fascia as well. http://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/focus-mk2-facelift-stereo-into-preface-lift

The Mondeo ones are the odd one's out as they are deeper and the face plates are wider at the top. If the radio you are after has the same mounting method as the focus you have i.e as per my earlier post you'll be ok.

Hi stoney would a fiesta Sony head unit fit as I've got a mk.2.5 focus with the 6000 in I'm glad I had a look because i nearly bought a mondeo one on sunday.