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Codes are individual. You need to visit a dealership unless you have a card with the pin on in with your handbook. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Bit of a bump by now but getting the engine management software updated has completely fixed the problem! Done about 350 miles since having the work done and not had a single poor start! So happy! Thanks for the recommendation JW1982!!!!

Thanks Ian

So I had a call from Ford customer service today to tell me my new seat was finally ready and delivered to my local dealer. First complained about it back in July so just the 4 months wait. Going tomorrow to book it in and arrange the first service as well Sent from my iPhone

Ah! Thanks, Stoney. I'll free it up before refitting. S.

Did you figure it out Zain!? I would like to know how those parts affect the stiff gear change. Thank you !

I think you'd be best off having someone diagnose the squeal in person tbh, difficult to say what it is over the internet. The crank pulley (wheel that turns the belt) isn't likely to squeak. But the water pump might, that's the shiny wheel just behind the alternator in your pic. Otherwise it can only be the alternator or AC compressor. The belt doesn't look that new in the pictures though, so I wouldn't rule that out just because someone says it had been changed. I agree with Stef on the Eicher brakes, not had good experiences with them myself but obviously it's your budget and your choice.

I think you're just going to have to put your hand in yer pocket!

Doesn't matter when the recall was. The car is under warranty until 2018 assuming your profile is correct, and so are the new parts. Have you had your fuel filter changed at service yet? This maybe causing issues too. My MPG dropped until I had mine changed. Do you do a lot of city start/stop driving as opposed to long A road/M road driving?

Finally got around to taking the glovebox out and in the process proved that there is an alternate Universe As I pulled it out one of the plastic captive nuts dropped off the dash flange. When I tried to put it back I found it was loose so tried to pinch it together and in the process it winked out of existence! I was kneeling leaning into the passenger footwell when it slipped out of my fingers and vanished from this world. You'd think a piece of white plastic would stand out like a sore thumb against a black interior but it was nowhere to be seen. My local Ford parts dept. didn't stock them so has had to order them in, consequently I'm now running around with no glovebox. The main problem I encountered removing the glovebox this time was that I couldn't get the connector to disengage from the courtesy light switch so I had to pop the switch out and use a cable tie to hold the plunger in as the bulb seems difficult to pull out especially when it's hot! Even now that I've got decent access to it I still can't see how the connector latch releases. Of course Haynes just blithely tells you to disconnect the wiring with no information on how to actually do it!! I recently took out the glovebox of the wife's Mk2.5 and that was a total breeze compared with this.

Do it as Alexbartlam has said I’ve also done mine like this 👌👌

I've not taken a bumper off a 3.5. but there's not much holding it in place, a few screws behind arch liners, a few clips under neath, and a few underneath headlights.

I got some extra clips myself but they are expensive if you get them from ford.

Thanks Alan and Darren 👍. Don't know whever to get some spare clips incase any break off. Equipment wise my garage is just about like a mechanics garage so it has just about everything you need when doing work on a car.

out of interest did you pay someone else to do the head pressure test and welding? how much did that cost? was it easy to find someone to do it? many years ago there were engineering workshops around where I could take things like cylinders heads to be welded, have broken studs removed, helicoiled etc but they seem to have all closed down over the years as people tend not to try to repair stuff in the way you have tackled this problem and in the way I did in my younger days. Good persistence in getting to the root of the problem

Just fitted a set to a fiesta and they don't flash quickly and are very bright

hi to all, does anyone have any ideas on fixing solenoid charger valve on 1.0 focus titanium changed the valve twice, changed maf sensor, if driven like mary poppins , engine management light comes on, loss of power.Found that when stationary, switch off, switch back on hey presto! the fault has cleared? but.. no traction control? someone somewhere must have experienced this ? its driving me around the bend remedies if poss. please?

I used a hair dryer the heat up the plastic clip on the lock mechanism to help soften the plastic as I did brake the one on the passenger door. You could also use a trip clip tool to pop off the panel as well I borrowed one from a mate at work and found it worked very well. Good luck

If it’s the Centre console (is it the armrest type or the zetec one with no armrest?), then it’s relatively easy. You have to prise up the glossy black gearstick surround, unscrew a couple of screws under there and a couple by the seat belt clips then it lifts out easy. Little bit more to it than that but easy. Ive got a brand new non-armrest console I removed as soon as I got my 2017 Zetec and I put the armrest version in. You’re welcome to that for say a tenner plus postage (£10 I reckon). pm if you want it. 👍

Whilst we get this cluster in our UK (European) models, we don't get petrol (gasoline) engines, only Diesel! I think the same cluster is used in the Mondeo (Fusion in the US), I suspect it will be the same hardware part, but just configured differently in software.

Sorry guys let me explain. First port of call was to remove the plugs and turn the engine over result water in all three cylinders. Next I dropped the coolant. Removed and replaced the thermostat housing turned over the engine again until the cylinders were clear. Next I broke out my compression tester 180 psi in all three cylinders repeated with plugs removed same result. Dryed plugs out put them in and the car started first time. Dropped the engine used some chains you attach it to my engine crane made up a flywheel locking tool and removed the pully bolt. Stripped the engine down and removed the head. Head gasket looked fine had the head pressure tested which revealed a crack about 20mm in from where the turbo bolts onto the Manifold /head. Then it was welded and dressed and pressure tested again. Put the engine back together with a new headgasket head bolts wet belt and tensioner As for the timing I've a couple of different ford timeing pins I think I used a 1.6 zetec pin for the crankshaft a 5mm drill bit for the bottom pulley. As for the cams as long as you haven't removed the VVT pulleys and make sure that the flats are in line on the cams I used a two foot straight edge reassembled everything keep the timing pins in place AND THE FLYWHEEL LOCKING TOOL!!! And tighting the bottom pulley. Hope this helps someone out and never give up on an engine until you have all the evidence. Yours sincerely Steve Evans

Yeah I agree as standard the the mk2/2.5 dash is a bit cheap looking. A new radio and heater control knobs improved the dash of my Focus big time.

The Focus MK2.5 has red 12V 21W/5W BAW15D light bulbs. These light bulbs are extremely rare which results in high prices. Most automotive suppliers do not even carry these light bulbs in stock. As far as I know this type of light bulb is only used for the Focus MK2.5 and a few different Saab models. In the past these light bulbs could be bought pretty cheap from Saab. However after the bankruptcy of Saab 5 Years ago the price for these light bulbs went up straight away.

Hi, don't know about the stop/start. I remember your previous posts when everyone said give up it needs a new engine. was it a crack in the head? I thought you said it was crack in inlet manifold? have I remembered it wrongly. did it need a new head? was the crack repaired ? welded? Please let us have a recap of what was wrong and how it was fixed as it may help someone else in the same boat, as owners of 1litre ecoboost need all the help they can get when these engines go wrong with regard to coolant/overheating

Just go easy and take your time, you may break a couple of clips from the door card, be careful when unclipping the lock mechanism

The FFH can be activated with a suitible diagnostic system. For example an ELM327 interface combined with the ELMconfig or Forscan software. You basically have 2 options to correct the date/time. Activating the FFH or temporarily installing the original radio.

The new BeaST is now mine.- Dashcam, Heko's, bonnet dampers and some other bits from the old car will go back on in the next couple of days. A few new mods are ready to go on too, pics to follow soon.....

doesn't need it, goes on dry.

The fuel filter can be ruled out. The Focus MK2/MK2.5 Petrol versions do not have a changeable fuel filter. There is only a strainer (with relative large mesh) mounted at the inlet side of the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. This strainer is part of the fuel pump assembly and not available as a spare part. Personally I would start by checking if the car has the latest available PCM software. If not the PCM software should be updated to the latest version. Next to this I would reset all adaptations of the PCM using a suitible Ford specific diagnostic system. Afterwards the self learning procedure of the PCM must be performed. On this type of engine the engine must run at idle speed for at least 30 minutes. All electrical and mechanical power consumers (for example airconditioning) which affect the idle RPM must be switched of during this procedure.

ST's here 🤗

is that why you guys have 3 or 4 on the roof ;)

So... It looks like Halfords is the only place I can buy one of these bulbs locally, assuming the 780 is the right one, places like ECP don't appear to stock them. The cheap ebay ones are all economy delivery (Seems daft, surely people buy bulbs because they need them, not because they think they'll need them in a weeks time! ) and the ones with faster delivery end up costing more than the Halfords one anyway. Price is £11 RRP, £5.50 with trade discount. Will head over there shortly unless there are any places I haven't though to check? Edit - GSF do one for £7.28. Wilco do one for £5.99. Still can't beat the Halfords trade price so far.