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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2018 in all areas
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Yeah, it all comes down to to personal choice and preference. I can only say it is akin to someone saying I prefer Man Utd to Man City or vice versa, if you know what I mean. Power isn't really a factor to us, yes we got 140bhp models opposed to 100bhp as they was practically a couple of quid between the prices when we saw the figures offered.2 points
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Both the ST Line and ST have their upsides and downsides, my opinion will be that during my daily use of the car, I wouldn't really benefit more from having the ST. The ST will be quicker and a better drive if you are extremely keen on driving which is great but the ST Line X with it's specification is cheaper to buy and run and unless I can be explained differently, aside from the power, as a daily drive, it won't be significantly different. On a track yes but when I'm on the A61 stuck in traffic, I'm really not bothered if I have the ST or an ST Line. I actually like the Recaro's in the ST's but have heard mixed opinions about their comfort. James May once did make a point (which I also stand by) that you have the most fun when pushing a car to it's limit, I think everyday, I'm more likely to get anywhere near that limit when in an ST Line rather than the ST as like I've said - it's a cracking car which I would have bought if available but... it's true potential will be used when on a track or on a quiet B road which I'm on about once or twice a year.2 points
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the days of diy have long gone for the majority of car owners, im supprised haynes is still in existance .2 points
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What I am saying is I aren't prepared to pay nearly double we pay on insurance for an extra 60 bhp. As someone else has said we wouldn't notice the difference as we tend not to rag our cars around or try to race other either. Not worth it, not to mention the poor suspension issues that are circulating. πππ2 points
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thought it was about time i put my face to my profile instead of hiding behind the grinch or minions.2 points
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Hi all again, so if you followed my cars in this project thread, youβll see I had a mk7 fiesta modified a few years later I returned with my ST-2 Mk3 focus in Tangerine which become highly highly modified and now Iβve traded that car in for this..... One Mk3 RS in magnetic grey every optional extra, shell seats the only seats to have in an RS. Only mods so far are H & R 20mm springs H & R uprated anti roll bars Rallyflapz in black Mountune recirc valve KMs custom Tornado cat back with stock exhaust valve still in place and thatβs it so far Iβll be keeping her mainly stock for warranty reasons but a few cosmetic changes to be done maybe some warranty friendly performance mods who knows :) see what this thread becomes shall we ;) anyway hereβs some photos I have so far need to clean her and get loads of photos taken also a video of the exhaust popping and banging lol1 point
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Yeah if it was an RS you could ask for well in excess of Β£10k. Sadly the regular models (e.g. LX etc.) aren't collectable so are only worth as much as any other 24 year old car. The low mileage will help, but not massively as there's quite a few being advertised around the 40-50k miles currently. Just make sure you get it through the MOT without a list of faults/advisories as long as your arm as that will put a lot of buyers off/ knock the price down.1 point
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Itβs 350 quite for the extra 2 years (5 in total), essentially the price of a large service but I have a worry free car for at least 5 years. Iβm going in on Saturday to sign off the finance and the drive away insurance and hopefully picking up between 26th and 31st so really canβt wait Haha, at least youβve actually got the mk7, hate to know what the wait time on the mk8 ST will be1 point
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Ignore me guys, Iβve just got buyerβs remorse for getting a MK7 when the MK8 was round the corner πππ1 point
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Fully agree! Different people have different lifestyles for which a certain car will be more the right choice than the other. I was planning on getting the 140 from the off but initially my dealer priced up a 125 (not sure why) then it turned out the difference was like 280 quid which isnβt really much. Test drove a 125 and it was good, I think the 140 will be perfect for what I need the car to do.1 point
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Yeah right. Lots more on offer. Like extra cost on insurance premiums, higher fuel costs, higher running costs, poor suspension, higher purchase price. Oh I forgot, an extra tailpipe, "sports" seating, and a 1.6l engine, 60bhp isn't worth the extra coatings to us I am afraid. Yes "ragging" it from flat starts at the lights etc etc would hilight he power difference between the STlx and the ST obviously, but that's not what we want. If we wanted an ST we certainly would have ordered one albeit in all probability a Focus St as this would be worth shouting about the extra bhp over the Fiesta. All options were considered and when it came down to value for money, the Fiesta St didn't fall into that bracket I am afraid. The St Line and Vignale did. The St Line suited us over the Vignale as we felt it looked a lot sleeker. I feel I would need to keep putting the pedal to the metal to experience the extra 60 bhp yes and this for us isn't worth the fuss as we will always see it as the extra horsepower as the only thing the ST offers extra to the styling we have now. Sorry if this explanation offends but thats just how it is to us.ππ1 point
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Don't get me wrong, if the ST was available to order in January, that's the one I'd have ordered rather than the ST Line but during my standard (and many others) commute, I highly doubt the car's full potential would be usable.1 point
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I like the scrolling indicators but not enough to change the car for. I'm more interested in the whiter and brighter light output from the LEDs. Hoping they'll be on par with bi xenon's at least on full beam.1 point
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Although I'm quite gutted to have missed out on the LEDs (not sure why Ford waited until now to offer but hey, the production/release of this current gen has been a bit sloppy by Ford), still haven't made my mind up if I actually like the sequential indicators or whether they're just a bit of a gimmick.1 point
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During daily driving, what else is on offer than BHP? Like I mentioned earlier, I don't think stiffer suspension or LSDs make any difference when your average speed is around 20-25mph in a city. I did say that the extra BHP would be handy in a city regardless, but to get the full benefits of an ST, you would need to "rag" it - of course, the definition of that varies between people, but how else, aside from the BHP, would you use the extra that the ST offers?1 point
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Thanks. Some goes to tezza for helping ,advising & ordering me stuff. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk1 point
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Have you checked your tyres? I had a similar problem on mine, found i had two tyres with manufacturing defects. Check your wheels while your at it making sure they haven't buckled. That rubber is there to stop the spring hitting the bodywork of the car and keeps the spring in position. I think it sits on some sort of locator, been that long since I changed my rear springs I can't remember exactly! You won't need spring compressors to swap them over nice easy job on a fez to change rear springs. jack the car up take the bolt out the bottom of the shocker both sides, push the axle down with the help of an assistant if you need one and pull the spring out. Align the end of the coils correctly with the stops when refitting1 point
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I have not come across spiked wheel nuts yet. I assume you don't mean something like this! ScaniaPBman.1 point
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don't blam you leaving the beam conversion to a mechanic lol the overall look of your car is spot on mate and a real credit to you1 point
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To answer both of you please see the new thread in the project section ;) Iβll be doing a few bits and pieces no major plans1 point
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I see. I guess this is gonna a fair whack more than the Β£600 it would've cost had the option been available at the start. And then the modifications hit to insurance... Thanks, you've all been very helpful!1 point
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Don't know you would have to arrange that. Not too expensive if you get the right courier. https://www.paisleyfreight.com/?source=google&segment=alloys&gclid=CjwKCAjwnLjVBRAdEiwAKSGPIywqnQTehp_t1_pDqqSIOXvt_GVtNpG_FqkIkXobWzwAT34DloLdtRoC-z4QAvD_BwE ive msgd you1 point
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I suspect that you mean the 17S09 - 1.6L GTDI COOLING SYSTEM recall. This recall is not a result of technical problems. The only reason why Ford arranges this recall is because of safety reasons (fire risk). A coolant leak can cause the cilinder head to crack. When this happens the engine oil can leak onto the hot exhaust and ignite. Despite being a very small risk Ford decided to eliminate it completely by recalling all affected vehicles worldwide. The recall basically consists of a low coolant warning system to generate an early warning message in case of leaking coolant. The recall is no reason for warranty or refund for repairs that were performed in the past.1 point
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Liking the new profile pic @iantt π. The 1.5 ecoboost must be faster plus as its manual you'll hopefully get more mpg.1 point
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Set the ignition to ON. Press and hold the brake pedal. Press the EPB switch to release the parking brake. Release the brake pedal and the EPBswitch. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch to the RELEASE (downward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and EPB. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.1 point
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Choose fastest route and change the eco penalty. Always works well for me. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)1 point
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Mechanically, you're right there is quite a difference between ST-Line's and ST's but realistically, in everyday driving the only real difference you'll feel is the hp difference, stiffer suspension or even the optional LSD on the upcoming ST isn't really going to be that crucial when daily driving in traffic and on a standard commute. Take it on a track and the difference will be massive but if I paid Β£20k or something for a new ST, I wouldn't really be looking to rag it around a track despite kind of what that being what the car would be amazing at.1 point
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Under the mat is the slot where you put your fob, if the fob battery is dead. btw. That storage shell is piece of awfull design, overall ford really drop the ball in one thing. That is using the android auto(AA) easy. - Need to use usb instead of bt or wifi(ok this is not ford fault, and wifi is coming to AA) - Only front usb works with AA(atleast i have not get the arm rest usb to work for AA) - Front usb is at very risky place, and for me also it is very ugly looking the usb cable sticking in shiny carbon panel - There is no good place to put your phone. If i put my S8 with usb cable connectet to it in that holder front of gear stick, it would not fit sideways to it, and other way cable and phone is in way of the gear stick. - If your phone gets disconnect from the car, beware of radio blasting at high volume(There might be a fix for this in pipeline) Here is my Vignale1 point
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Nothing wrong with a lift kit on a Ford! But seriously, springs do settle so they may drop a bit over a couple of days. Or the car may have been lowered previously and you've replaced the springs with standard ones... Or you've fitted the wrong ones altogether lol.1 point
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As mentioned above, it has always been illegal to fit HID or LED upgraded bulbs into units that are not designed for them. With the proposed new MOT regs then it could get a lot easier to enforce this law bit itβs doubtful. The MOT tester is not allowed to remove anything to check what bulbs you have so unless there is a ballast visible or your alignment/pattern is well out then itβs likely they will go unnoticed, but you have a reflector lens so it will be obvious and most likely a fail. Reflector housings are designed for halogen bulbs, not LED or HID so the beam pattern will never be perfect and more likely to be poor. LEDs in general, even OEM ones can be particularly poor in rain and do not have a particularly good reach. Fords dynamic LEDs however are amazing. The housings are not designed to withstand the heat generated by LED bulbs, on Chinese built bulbs and even some of the more expensive ones the fans can and do easily fail and there is no warning. The first you know is when something starts to smoke or worse.... also if the heat sinks touch the units they can also melt them. You may have to get modified caps to go back onto the back of the units so that there is more clearance for the fans and heat sink. Most aftermarket bulbs do have the decoders built in to avoid flicker and the CANbus monitoring but some systems are more sensitive then others. As mentioned by a couple of people already you may be better to just stick to upgraded Halogen ones. Osram and Phillips seem to have the best offerings. Nightbreakers had a pretty poor reputation for longevity but the bulbs were awesome, I believe the issue has been addressed with the introduction of Nightbreakers Lasers (mentioned earlier) and they seem to have much better lifespan now. They are relatively new to the market so there are not a great deal of βreal lifeβ reviews after a couple of years of ownership. Personally I use the Phillips Xtreme Vision +130%, they were in my last car for over 2 years without an issue. I had them on whenever I was driving and covered 25K miles with them in and they were still working when I sold the car. The light is clean and crisp, and although I canβt vouch for the claimed 130% upgrade I certainly had no reason to question it. coming on and asking the question is good, gather the info and then make an informed decision. Whichever way you decide to go, good luck and keep us updated. When you do change either way, remember to take some before and after pics, and also for comparison take a pic with one side using the new and one side with the old. It will help you decide if there is a real difference. If you go with non standard bulbs then look at light temps between 5000-6000K. Any lower and you go yellow, any higher and itβs purple/blue.1 point
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Update ! I did notice difference from st225 springs to these Eibachs pro kit . As with these the front rallyflapz scrape . This is how it sits currently. Dont know if it will drop more . Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk1 point
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This isn't the right part of the forum but hopefully the mods will move it as you're new. Which engine is it? Is the battery good? Is the immobiliser light (red LED) flashing or on solid?1 point
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I had this on our old focus. I will be a failing rear brake caliper. You can get an exchange unit from Eurocar parts and are fairly straight forward to fit.1 point
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