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I'm a tiny bit jealous now 😅 wife sent me this selfie at 06:45am yesterday morning; she was watching Television on the sofa When liam sat up beside her putting his paw on top of her arm yawned and rest his head on her side ☺️ great bond they have now. And here he is thismorning after a walk 😂 hes getting big compared to four weeks ago; Sorry for all the Puppy Spam posts guys 😅

And that is why I always start cars, trucks etc with clutch down. A habit I have had since even before I sat my test.

I'm going to admit that I have no idea how or when my 210 has done a DPF regen in 22000 miles. I suppose it has but I've never noticed anything to suggest that it's doing one.

The modified version has a switch on it so you can access both the High and Mid speed CAN networks. You can use a standard ELM cable but will only have access to half the modules basically.

Your not joking; she even has parcels arriving now which are addressed in his name 😂 Liam Woods Recieved delivery of this bowl from Amazon for inside his training crate there thismorning; hes kept in the crate during the night so she bought this bowl for water https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XRY3Q47/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o58vDb31MD78R

He's fair got his paws under the table now. Careful he doesn't edge you out [emoji57] Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

The above image shows the amount of empty space inside the multiroom viewing box; the motherboards could have been double stacked including the HardDrive to half the entire size. The above image shows the SATA cable; I ordered a SATA3 from Amazon but this one fitted says ASAP on it; I googled and found that SATA3 and ASAP are exactly the same thing both capable of up to 6GB transfer rate with the ASAP standing for "As Soon As Possible" ☺️ So I've left the SATA3 cable untouched, Moving on from that discussion regarding the size etc. The Cisco box which I took apart for upgrade was an old box which I had spare since I cancelled my subscription and signed the wife up instead in order to avail of a 12 months half price subscription deal 😉 The only sting in the tail was now; when I fitted the SSHD and tried to power up the old Cisco box; it wouldn't function only to display a screen image request for me to call Virgin Media and register the box to the subscription service.😟 I then tried inserting the viewing Card which was registered for subscription; tried inserting that in to the old viewing box; however it then asked me to insert the correct card for the box🙁 At this point I then had to open another Cisco box identical to the first unit but this one was registered to operate with the existing subscription and card👇 WWS T10 Torx just barely managed to remove the security screws successfully alternatively I could have gripped there mushroom heads with a pliers ☺️ there not very secure atall. Four Torx screws removed and were successfully in 🙇‍♂️ Interesting to see the lack of consistency or loyalty with the supplier as this box had a 320GB Western Digital HDD where the previous box had a 320GB Seagate HDD both viewing box are exactly one year apart in production. Anyway; above image is the 320GB HDD set next to its replacement 500GB Solid State HardDrive, huge difference in both the size and the weight. I plugged the SSHD in to this account registered VM box to trial before fitting 100% of the way just to test if it was going to be a success before completing the process 😬 A few butt clenching minutes later and Thankfully it was a sucess; The unit started up without a single sound and continued to function without detecting anything different atall it seems the Virgin Media software program is stored on one of the boards while the HDD just stores the viewing/Recordings; So I unplugged the box again and set about fully installing the SSHD. Above is the SATA3 2.5" to 3.5" adapter which I've linked to before; I quite like its minimalistic design its also very strong &sturdy no flexing atall, Fitted the original brackets to both sides of the 3.5" adapter where you can also see some blue rubber grommets were fitted to help reduce vibration from the original noisy 3.5" HDD. 🤔 I tried fitting and suddenly the cables weren't long enough 😅 I then realized; I had fitted the replacement drive upside down 🤦‍♂️ I removed the four screws; turned the drive upside down and refitted the four screws securing the side brackets; The cables are now refitted exactly as they were in the original drive, One final picture then of the viewing box internal setup with the replacement Solid State HardDrive fitted before refitting the cover and the four Torx Screws👍 Refitted in the bedroom now and its operating perfectly without making any noise atall doesnt create half as much heat and theres an increase in the storage capacity; I'm delighted with the results, Thanks for Reading 👍 Two items purchased from the Amazon shopping Basket used in this process were: HDD Adapter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074K95T4X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_m06hDb90EWJDY?tag=autoclubinte-21 Solid HDD: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078WQT6S6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Well, this is the one! I can confirm for anyone with this issue on the future, it was indeed the CPS, and it had basically worn away at the end of the sensor itself by being ground off by the teeth inside the engine casing. There is a plate that the sensor bolts on to on the 1.6 petrol model which should be solidly in place, but somehow on mine it happened to have worked it's way free of its mount, thus sending the sensor into the teeth. I swapped it out not realizing the tolerances were that bad, and shredded the new one, but luckily enough not bad enough for it to become unusable. For the time being I have welded the plate tight-up to the casing with quick-steel, and shimmer out the sensor for the time being until further dismantling and time allows. Many thanks to all here, @Mods, I realize I have posted this same answer in my other topic, but I'm going with the basis that the two could be separate issues to someone, one to check the CPS and one to 'fix' the mounting issue if it comes up on anyone in the future. Hope this helps someone in years to come! 👍

Can just about make out the MK4, but there are 4 generations of Focus here.

Hi all Anyone any idea how long build 18093 update has been available. Checked or updates yesterday on the website and mine was up to date. Checked today and 18093 was available for update. Checking via Google it appears some have had it available for over 3 months. Appears it helps with the operation of Waze maps. Could have been released in North America first. Took approx 15 minutes to update mine.

That statement reminded me of my early driving experiences, cheap cars, crap batteries etc so depressing the clutch could have been the difference between a car starting or not!

On the Mk2/2a Focus there are two main CAN buses, called HS-CAN & MS-CAN. HS-CAN is for engine related stuff, it goes to the ECU, other under-bonnet modules like ABS, and the Instrument Cluster (IC). MS-CAN is for body related stuff, it goes to the BCM (aka Passenger Fuse Box), door modules, park aid, Audio system, etc, and to the IC.. If you have front & rear electric windows, you will have electronic door modules, and all the central locking signals are sent over the MS-CAN bus from BCM to & from these modules. So CAN bus activity is essential. If you have manual rear windows, the wiring from BCM to all the locking is conventional (lots of wires), but it is likely there will still be communication between BCM and IC on any locking operations. Anything that keeps the MS-CAN bus active not only keeps the odometer light on, but can cause battery drain. Not the tiny light itself, but if major electronic modules are not going into sleep mode, they can draw appreciable current. So it is worth checking from time to time that this light does eventually go out. The Mk2 Focus is a bit more electronic than many people think. Mk3 & Mk4 are even more stuffed with data buses of course!

Yeah same here but what I did was put the key in the ignition whilst standing outside as the window was down did pull me a little forward as well 😄. I think with the clutch down it helps a little bit for the engine to start as there isn't extra energy needed as the gearbox isn't connected to the engine.

That's why you shouldn't have a euro6/6.2 diesel if all your doing is short 10 min journeys.

Cheeky buy for myself 🙂 a set of DNA racing light weight front wishbone arms with uniball joints these are meant to last forever these joints due to their unique oil filled joints they don’t rot don’t break and don’t perish over time so hopefully these will outlast the car! Also uniball joints are known for using in racing teams as they give more steering response and feedback than just polybushs also even though polybushs are cheaper and last longer than stock rubber they still diminish and perish over time but are 1/3 of the cost! Mill use polybushs in certain areas where I don’t justify uniball joints, like the rear beam connection Bush, I’ll fit polybushs in them as they are £70 instead of £400 for a set of uniballs and tbh I’m not sure how much more the rear the needs controlling stiffening up after a rear roll bar which is next on the list I think!

I'd just like to add you can mod the standard elm cable yourself if you're good with a soldering iron and have a little patience. Loads of guides online. Done it a few years back.

When mine does it, you get a 'warm' smell and if it's doing it when I stop and get out, its quite a 'hot' smell. Would be nice if it had an info light on the dash when its doing it, because if you interrupt the regen cycle, it starts it all over again the next time the engine is up to temp. Can be a repetitive never completing cycle if your only doing less than short 10 min journeys!

Yes, me too. Mind you, on most cars nowadays you have to press the clutch (or have your foot on the brake if automatic) to start them.

It'll be fine, just a bit of extra strain on the battery/starter motor, might have taken a couple of starts off of it's life...nothing in comparison to how long they last. You were lucky though, I know of at least 5 people that have hit their garage or house, causing significant damage, doing exactly that!!

Just to say folks....I am up and running thanks to @Bannko Could not recommend highly enough! Cheers

I strongly agree with you , this nitrogen thing is probably the biggest scam ever in the world of tyres 😄 , I couldn't see any gains as pure air is already 78% nitrogen as you mentioned, beside the increase in tyre pressure due to the change in temperature is not noticeable at all compared to nitrogen, the pressure loss rate also is nearly the same, and besides that to fill your tyres with nitrogen properly you need to inflate and empty the tyre many times and after all of this you will have around the 90% nitrogen, you will never get 100% nitrogen in any tyre, I strongly agree with you 🙂

Tunnelrat every time.

Aye, he's being spoiled rotten for sure. Just don't let the wife start buying him doggy clothes. [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

The ST is in for its first ever MOT currently, so just waiting for the results but sat with some nice views here..

Hi, I'm Barry, I drive a Ford Focus 1.5 Ecoboost Titanium X, 182PS. Planning to do a few mods which is what brings me here. Baz

Id really appreciate if you would update me because for a while i had a gut feeling that i may have an engine mount or transmission mount thats loose but really have no idea how to check for it so you saying that comes at the right time.Hope the weathers kind if you are doing it outside ;-)

That was the solution i was starting to think about... Until I realised that I am a forgetful idiot! I 'knew' it was not a fuse problem as I had already checked all the fuses that were present. But...I forgot that I had moved a fuse to check a different issue, and not put it back. Thank you everyone for your help and sorry for wasting peoples time 😞

Normal.

A couple of ugga duggas and it’ll be grand

I am absolutely baffled with this one.. 2009 Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 Petrol. Just recently prior to doing a full service (Myself, so I know what was done),the EML would blink on occasion when the car would be running steady at say 1500 rpm on 30-40mph roads. The returned code was always P0300, Multiple/Random Cylinder Misfire. <The light would not remain lit, but the car would NOT seem to be misfiring> Following a full service, upgrade to new coil pack, updated HT leads, Iridium plugs, fresh oil and cleaned filter (K&N), the problem still exists, but has been getting ALOT worse in a matter of about two weeks. I now have the same issue, but at any speed and RPM, and under accel/decelleration. It even does it now when idling, and has even blinked without the engine running, reporting the same code.. Heres the scary bit. Two days ago, the same happened and it will do this a few times per trip without fail, however this time when turning specifically right, sharply into a junction or to do a turn in the road, the engine shuts off completely. No shudder, no stall, no lockup, just running, then not running. Of course this is worrying as I lose brakes, and steering, and lights if on. This occurred a few times in the past few days and I can't put my finger on why. Finally, these two days when it has cut out, it usually starts up whilst rolling with a turn of the key but in the past 72 hours it's also occasionally really struggled to start and it turns over but almost as if no spark or fuel. Theres just no kick to it, but then give it 5 and its firing up first turn. Code always returns P0300, but has now today also returned P0336 - Powertrain Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance Can anyone advise? My thoughts are here initially fuel pump, due to the random 'misfire' reports, and the struggle to kick in. I also suspected the power steering pump, as the steering has gotten heavier in these past couple of weeks or so as well, but I'm unsure if that's just me. Second could be the cluster itself having a bad earth, I've never had an issue with it until about a month ago and afaik it's never had any fixes for the common soldering fault. Thirdly, based on the code, P0336, could it be the CPS? I know they throw a bunch of oddities up when they act up. *Bonus fault* Today it's also actually misfired during a run at about 40, pushing the car 2nd to 3rd I replicated the same issue, but these times it's actually either cut out, or I've lost the rev-guage as it freezes and drops to 0 rpm until a restart. I don't think I have a ground fault elsewhere and I have triple checked all connectors I can on the pumps/plugs/rail/MAF/etc. My daily commute is a 30mi round trip so this is a little more concerning than I'd like to admit! So erm yeah.. if this one doesn't stump you I don't know what will! Any suggestions at all would be very much appreciated. Cheers guys!

Guys, thank you so much. As always, this forum is the way forward! Given the time and lack of tools I have I was hoping that this wouldn't have been the case, despite knowing it would be on the inside. Massive massive thank you for that screenshot -very much appreciated! So I actually admit I didn't see this post, however great minds think alike! I've basically had to quick-steel it 'in' as you mentioned, then have shimmed out the replacement sensor for now so that I get ignition timing and all seems well. The new sensor is definitely worse for wear, but most importantly functional. With regards to where the bilt will eventually go, I'm not sure entirely but it appears as it should drop in to the sump and just live there, i wound imagine it will just roll around in there until I get chance to have it off. Again, really really appreciate everything here guys, very helpful info, and damned hard to find for this motor!

The land rover would have been euro 4 or 5 I'm guessing and not as low emmisions as today's euro 6/6.2. therefore dpf regen would have occurred far less than today's cars/SUVs. Euro 6 2.0 tdci in the edge ( older Peugeot derived engine) probably regens passively every 50-100 miles depending on usage. My Mondeo regens every 60 miles or so. ( I do 14 mile each way trips to work and home ) The euro 6.2 ecoblue engine probably less miles than that depending on usage. This engine is having issues in other ford models with regard to regens and oil dulution

Really? In an Edge? How would he have done that?

Petrol

Solved it and thanks a lot for the advice. Changed to MBR through the manager then into Bios and changed to Legacy and boot from USB hard disc then usb drive in on boot and windows is installing. All I have to sort now is when all updated is to set my boot option on start up so I can pick HDD or SSD and transfer some stuff when on SSD windows,activated through Bios as it did on my other. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

You should be aware that fitting bright LED bulbs make them useless as 'fog' lights, but as you state you want to use them as DRLs, you'll be fine.

Sounds like a good deal but I really hate the “nitrogen fill” for which places charge more or suggest is much better. You gain nothing and normal air is 78% nitrogen anyway so struggle to jump onboard the nitrogen bandwagon.

@ToXIcG nice to see you again 😊. Does it only do this at home and never away from home? Could be a interference or even the battery on the key going.

Any neighbors running a pirate radio station?

Make sure there’s nothing interfering with the antenna. On the Mk7.5 it’s under the rear seats. Not sure on your model