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Yep, they sure are rare LOL

All sorted now thanks .just waited till I re connected battery.

I’ll be celebrating two months of freedom not wearing a mask this weekend😀Finding a lot of snotty face masks at the kerbside though,which is disappointing. Mask wearers please dispose of safely if you insist on them👍

Seems to be some pretty convincing evidence of the effectiveness of vaccines, although for balance I should note that David Icke has stated that "it's all f***ing lies": https://www.pulsetoday.co.uk/news/clinical-areas/respiratory/ons-just-1-of-patients-who-died-from-covid-this-year-were-fully-vaccinated/ Interesting to see that the boosters for the over 50s and vulnerable will be one shot of Pfizer or a half dose of Moderna irrespective of what you had first time. I was puzzled by that until I remembered that the Moderna is considered effective after one dose, so a half dose is equivalent to a a full dose of the others. Also interesting that Moderna are working on a combined Covid/flu jab. Not sure if that will be available for this winter's programme, but it would obviously make things easier for the NHS (and one less jab for those who fear needles!😀)

What a great design feature! Ford definitely on form with that one... 🤣

only way to open it without the battery is to get inside the boot via the back seat, look on the lower boot panel you will see two small square flaps; pop those open with a flat head screw-driver then using a TX40 torx but; undo the two bolts which hold in the bottom section of the boot latch, the boot will then open when both of these bolts are removed.

By the way it’s easy to tell if glovebox light stays on, put your phone on video record, put in glovebox and close it. Mine was staying on. My glovebox is always full and I wondered why it was always hot at the top when I opened it. Just unplugged it, who needs a glovebox light anyway.

I want to get side skirts, front splitter and lowering springs for my fiesta but im new to all this car stuff as its my first car and cant figure out what MK it is, its a 1.0 liter petrol titanium ecoboost. Thank you in advance!

Fitted replacement s/h injector fault was p1261 . All sorted now running well. I did not re code injector.

No. Most countries refer to what we call a Mk 7 as a Mk 6 (the whole car). What we call a Mk 6 they normally refer to as a Mk 5. Originally the whole world was in step up to the Mk 4. When that car was very extensively facelifted the UK referred to it as a Mk 5, everywhere else carried on calling it a Mk 4 facelift. So when the Mk 5 came out in 2002 the UK called it a Mk 6, and the same when the Mk 6 came out in 2008, the UK called it the Mk 7. Likewise when the latest generation arrived in 2017 it was the Mk 8 in the UK, but Mk 7 to most of the rest of the world. All very confusing, which is why it's best not to rely on that when ordering parts, although people use it when chatting on forums like this. Whoever decided to call the Mk 4 facelift a Mk 5 has a lot to answer for imo, it's caused confusion ever since!😀

Just updated mine of the Ford site no problems at all

Mark 7 facelift so usually referred to as Mk 7.5 in the UK Don't rely on that when ordering parts though, UK is out of line with most of the rest of the world which probably regards that as a Mk 6. Always quote your exact year and model and VIN number if necessary.

mark 7 🙂

Yes I know👍

I stopped wearing one on 21st June, BoJo's original 'freedom day', turns out I was exempt from wearing one all along, who knew LOL

Andy.£7.60 + VAT each. £18.24 the pair total.

Full ONS story here which looks pretty kosher to me despite David Icke and co. https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/healthandsocialcare/conditionsanddiseases/articles/coronaviruscovid19latestinsights/vaccines I'm not a great fan of compelling people to do things and I guess normally we'd say "ok, its your choice, take your chance" Trouble with Covid is treatment consumes a heck of a lot of resources that would be better used treating other things which can't be avoided and we have no vaccine for. Also on yesterday's briefing was Professor Lim of the JCVI who is also a practising A&E clinician. He was saying how sad and frustrating it is to hear non vaccinated patients (assuming they survive) say the first thing they'll do after discharge is to go for the jab. If only they'd thought that in the first place. So I do wonder how we can tackle the problem without some from of compulsion either directly or by severe limitation on what you can do without proof of vaccination to put the squeeze on. It certainly doesn't help when you continue to see reports of a significant number of NHS staff who are unvaccinated (I've seen up to 15% quoted in some regions). Obviously you'll never convince the vociferous anti-vaxxers but what sort of message does that send out to those who are just nervous of vaccinations?

I have never waited in my life after a vaccination - despite any recommendations to do so, waste of time! LOL

What I find fascinating is that 80% of us have had both shots. 8/10. That's a lot. But my god how vocal are the other 2! 😁 I guess it's like car forums, you don't get many "I'm quite happy" posts.

I have no fear of needles (being a diabetic with daily insulin injections), but a combined flu/booster would certainly be very handy for me.

Yep, the 'O' ring is what often fails (see attached of one of my failures) If you do get a new seal, make sure it's a genuine Ford part (pretty cheap), it has a specific chamfered edge which generic seals won't have!

Was a false widow spider, Ive no camera on my Alcatel one well there is but it's like frosted glass taking pictures, I'll get a picture of the bite tomorrow morning, feels like a burn when pressed; other than that I'm fine

Top tip...don't keep your jump leads in the boot!

It's unlikely to be the 'clips', most common fault is a £3 'O' ring that joins the pipe to the matrix. Mine has gone twice! It is a DIY repair for some on this forum, but if you're an armchair mechanic, (like me LOL), you'll need to get a garage to fix, though I would have to dissuade you on a main Ford dealer as they are so horrendously expensive. If I had a 3rd failure, I would go for a permanent repair of cutting an inch off the end of each pipe, and rejoin with quality hose/jubilee clips doing away with that stupid seal altogether!

Mine has 5.

As @Tiexen says it will install automatically in bits. When the install is interrupted it will begin again from the last full file. So with one of the larger files you might be unlucky that it was 90% installed when you switch off and therefore it will have to reinstall that file again but no harm will be done. The system will just continue the install process until each file has been completed.

Yes...but I have no idea why. Lambda's use a wide flat 4 plug...if they used a square 2x2 plug I'm sure that would fit through the ring.

I do like meeting a 1.5" fake black widow spider last night which I've known very well; was in my home since last Friday, He/she/neutral was waiting on the floor of our bedroom last night when I arrived home from work, Following a small chase along the deep pile carpet which slowed it down; it was quickly met with my shoe, Now the impact of this particular spider wasn't only it's unsightly presencein my home; It bit me last Friday night on the back of my right leg around 2" down from my hip; which has ballooned out with a large pink circle around a septic burning centre which at times gets itchy then burns like hell, It also impacts when sitting in the focus with the side bolster of the Recaro seat pressing on it, The pain lives on; but the spider is gone thankfully before anyone else got bitten, I was working nights last week and had the bedroom window open, where I'm 99% sure it came in as I've saw one passing the window heading up on to the roof during a heavy spill of rain last Thursday.

Have a read here, lots of info on wheel nuts. ScaniaPBman

You don't have to make a 2 hour journey, you can just leave the usb stick in and it will continue when you restart the car.

no need to thank me , that's what this forum was created for 🙂 to help each other 🙂

Fuse 22 is the instrument cluster (and should be a 7.5A). The 20A cigarette lighter socket is fuse 18.

I paid a garage to do this job a few years ago, they never bothered to remove the old copper washer on this injector, literally just finished & the car miraculously started straight away.

All sound advice but as you say Phil it's not a problem damaging the old discs and pads, as a matter of interest this was my late father-in laws car and he had all the pads replaced at 34,250 miles it has now done 101.731 miles and the rears are fine, mind you he was a plodder to save fuel thanks for all the advice guys Cheers Bill

Before you fork out on a new radio, just try unplugging the Bluetooth module (if you have Bluetooth fitted). You have to remove the glovebox (7 Torx screws if I recall correctly) and it's located right above it. The connector is a bit of a pig to reach, but you should be able to get it. The Bluetooth module feeds into the radio, so whenever you unplug the radio, you're also isolating the Bluetooth module. You haven't said which radio you have, but you can pickup the 6000CD for around £30 on ebay, or the Sony one for £50. The travelpilot is a bit more expensive. There's dozens of used ones on there, so take your pick.

If it looks like this, it's an AUX!

He says he has already had the cambelt changed. I would say that for a 15 year old car, standard service schedules become a moot point. Oil and filter change every year and fix anything that is wearing out or breaks would be my approach.

Just for reference, proof a 2005 Mk2 Focus has 5 x studs...

The offset isn't that precise, you can get away with a few mm either side of standard. The centre bore has to be correct though. As do the number of studs.

I think the OP needs to clarify exactly what Focus he has - 2005 could be a Mk 2 but remaining stocks of Mk 1s were still being sold well into 2005. The Mk 2 has 5 studs but the Mk 1 has 4. There are loads of genuine and aftermarket alloys for either on Ebay, etc.

Consumption varies enormously depending on how and where you drive. Look at the difference between North Yorkshire and London!😀

Follow up. Having had it plugged in to get some codes. The mechanic informed me that the sensors were all over the place and all out of expected range. His diagnosis was that the ECU was fried. So I decided to have a look . Starting at the fuse box i found that there was no ground for the PCM and Starter relays. Having tested the relays I could see they were ok. A quick check on tinternet revealed that the grounds were supplied by the ECU. Bridging the relay for the ECU i moved on to test the ECU. The ECU was soaking wet but the plugs were actually in good condition. Now testing the plugs for supply from relays and constant 12v I found that the 3 relay supplies were good but the constant supply was only 9v. So having tested the wire from the fuse box 10a fuse I found that it was down under load. Ran a new wire to replace the 12v constant supply and Eureka! No errors on dash and car runs perfect again. One happy Wife means happy life for me

Located old phone with FM Radio fitted Lmfao pimpin yall

First entry in this topic courtesy tunne1rat: As some of you are now aware, the biggest problem with the s-max is the poxy alarm! The problem is caused by water getting into the alarm sounder module which is located under the front ns wheel arch. The only cure is to get the alarm sounder replaced at the dealers. In the mean time, fuse F26 in the central fuse box provides the power to the alarm sounder. Unfortunately Ford also provided this sounder with an internal battery, so pulling the fuse will not instantly silence the alarm but will eventually as the battery drains and will prevent the alarm from sounding again while you are waiting for the part to arrive at the dealers! (The wipers will also return to normal function). To access and identify the fuse, you need to remove a small piece of carpet under the glove box held on with 2 plastic fasteners (these just pull off) then there is a small latch which when turned will release the fuse box which is hinged at the back so just pull it down far enough to get your hand in. Fuse F26 is a 5A and is third from the bottom on the left. Hope this helps.

Not just Ford. I had to do as Lenny describes when the boot lock failed on my Peugeot 309 GTI 30 odd years ago. We 'd just arrived at our holiday cottage and I had to crawl in there to get our stuff!